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#25 Reply
Posted by
kalel
on 01 Dec, 2017 00:55
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Note that if you want to post higher resolution photos, you can always use a service (free image host).
Then, to show the image in forum, just click on the image button (below the "B" button) and paste the image URL between the IMG tags [img]www.site.com/img[/img]
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#26 Reply
Posted by
Old Don
on 01 Dec, 2017 01:41
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#27 Reply
Posted by
glarsson
on 01 Dec, 2017 06:56
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Yes. My comment was towards the "Any good supply...", not just this power supply.
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#28 Reply
Posted by
CJay
on 01 Dec, 2017 06:58
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That fuse holder looks rather loose...
I think it's OK.
I think you're right, it may have just been the angle, shadow etc.
It looks like a really nice PSU, I hope you get it repaired, either by your own hand or by the manufacturer, would be a shame not to see it working.
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#29 Reply
Posted by
Brumby
on 01 Dec, 2017 07:04
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Note that if you want to post higher resolution photos, you can always use a service (free image host).
Then, to show the image in forum, just click on the image button (below the "B" button) and paste the image URL between the IMG tags [img]www.site.com/img[/img]
If they are really big images, it is better to offer the URL to the photo, rather than place it inline. Members can then choose to follow the link if they want to see the photo, whereas if it is included inline (which is what the IMG tag does) it forces every visitor to download the image. This isn't a problem for many of us with fast internet - but some members who are not so fortunate can be stuck for minutes, unless they abandon the page.
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#30 Reply
Posted by
cdev
on 01 Dec, 2017 17:10
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I like the way they specify its output power in a "zoom" mode in watts under the curve, giving you ability to output either more voltage and less current or more current and less voltage?
This is a capability most bench supplies only give you by adding or strapping separate outputs together.
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#31 Reply
Posted by
Jwillis
on 03 Dec, 2017 02:27
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Hard to see,but then I'm halve blind anyway.I think maybe but could be wrong.
HD64F7051F20 is a 32 bit micro controller.
HC08 is a Quadruple 2-Input Positive-AND Gates
HC14 are Hex Schmitt-Trigger Inverters
so most of that side of the board is for interfacing and digital readout.
The right side of board I can make out four op amps OP191 for supply control and protection.
AD8842 which may be part of the voltage adjustment.
Not sure if the unit powers up at all or is completely dead.If its totally dead then I would start at the AC in and work from there.
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#32 Reply
Posted by
Asuka
on 04 Dec, 2017 08:45
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A final note on this thread. I contacted the manufacturer by phone today and spoke to a repair person. According to the person I spoke to, the serial number of the unit indicates a construction date of 2007, and this model is at the end of its life with manufacture set to end in March 2018. If I send it back for repair, it will cost nearly as much as a new unit, because to repair a 2007 unit they would have to replace the internals with the current spec components ("overhaul"). That means I have to either repair it myself or get rid of it. I'm not really set up for repairing it yet but my plan is to keep hold of the unit and try to get it repaired by December 2018, failing that I'll scrap it or sell it on Auctions or something. When I try the repairs, what I'll do is post on the repair forum as suggested by CJay above rather than on this thread. I probably won't start doing that until next year, so I'll see you then. I had quite a good conversation with the repair person, who suggested that the problem was almost certainly in the power supply part.
Thanks to everyone who's replied here.
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As the years go by things like this are becoming more difficult to impossible to repair. So many of the fine pitch components are all but impossible to remove and replace. As things like FPGA's become predominant even the manufacturers can't or don't want to work on then other than replace boards. Buying used gear is getting to be a real gamble. I bought 2 "working" Analog Discovery's from the same dealer on ebay, neither worked and Digilent was as helpful as they could be, but they don't even repair what they sell. I got lucky and the seller refunded me, but buyer beware now more than ever. I finally ponyed up the $$ and bought a new one with the factory guarantee.
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#34 Reply
Posted by
cybermaus
on 04 Dec, 2017 19:01
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Well, that depends of course. If its the brain box, it will be difficult.
But it can still be the power supply. High-res photos and a schematic is what is needed to assist with pointing out what to measure with a simple DMM to see if at least the right base voltages exists.
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#35 Reply
Posted by
cdev
on 04 Dec, 2017 23:29
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Did you ask him about a service manual?
A service manual will give you an order of battle.. check A voltage, if voltage >n check B, if not check C and so on...
A final note on this thread. I contacted the manufacturer by phone today and spoke to a repair person. According to the person I spoke to, the serial number of the unit indicates a construction date of 2007, and this model is at the end of its life with manufacture set to end in March 2018. If I send it back for repair, it will cost nearly as much as a new unit, because to repair a 2007 unit they would have to replace the internals with the current spec components ("overhaul"). That means I have to either repair it myself or get rid of it. I'm not really set up for repairing it yet but my plan is to keep hold of the unit and try to get it repaired by December 2018, failing that I'll scrap it or sell it on Auctions or something. When I try the repairs, what I'll do is post on the repair forum as suggested by CJay above rather than on this thread. I probably won't start doing that until next year, so I'll see you then. I had quite a good conversation with the repair person, who suggested that the problem was almost certainly in the power supply part.
Thanks to everyone who's replied here.
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#36 Reply
Posted by
james_s
on 04 Dec, 2017 23:38
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This is pretty much what I expected would happen, and the reason I mention my policy of paying very little if anything for broken gear. Too much of it is just not economical to repair unless one is persistent, has a lot of free time and some luck.
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#37 Reply
Posted by
Asuka
on 06 Dec, 2017 06:37
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But it can still be the power supply.
The person I spoke to on the phone seemed fairly sure about that.
High-res photos and a schematic is what is needed to assist with pointing out what to measure with a simple DMM to see if at least the right base voltages exists.
Thanks, I will be back next year (January 2018) with high resolution photos. I'll set up an account on imgur or similar since they cannot be posted here.
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#38 Reply
Posted by
cdev
on 06 Dec, 2017 23:42
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You can post up to 2 Mb per post which is a LOT if you compress images intelligently. Download a copy of theGimp, ( gimp.org ) and fool around a bit with the image compression settings for jpg and png.
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#39 Reply
Posted by
CJay
on 07 Dec, 2017 06:25
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You can post up to 2 Mb per post which is a LOT if you compress images intelligently. Download a copy of theGimp, ( gimp.org ) and fool around a bit with the image compression settings for jpg and png.
Or Irfanview which has a very nice 'save for web' option in the file menu
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#40 Reply
Posted by
GreyWoolfe
on 07 Dec, 2017 13:01
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You can post up to 2 Mb per post which is a LOT if you compress images intelligently. Download a copy of theGimp, ( gimp.org ) and fool around a bit with the image compression settings for jpg and png.
Or Irfanview which has a very nice 'save for web' option in the file menu
+1 for Irfanview. I use it regularly, not just here but for any images I need to send/post anywhere. I also have it on my company laptop. Great program that's easy to use.
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#41 Reply
Posted by
Seekonk
on 07 Dec, 2017 13:40
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Hate to see you just give up. Don't think you have said what exactly is wrong with the unit. Does the display power up at all? If it doesn't this is probably a very easy problem to diagnose. Who needs schematics. Form follows function.
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#42 Reply
Posted by
Decoman
on 07 Dec, 2017 13:47
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At the risk of sounding off topic:
For better processing photos and sometimes images, I use the free-to-download Fusion 8 (it was free when i downloaded it from the devs, blackmagicdesign) This is a node based compositing software for movies/tv, but works great for:
1) scaling down photos (because you don't want to upload 3MB huge .jpg's, and sometimes photoshop isn't good enough for scaling down photos)
2) and in the node, apply sampling filter of choice, from very sharp to more blurry (whatever happens to look the best in any case)
3) color correction (fun to remove/suppress color, very simple to do)
4) adjust gamma, brightness and bunch of other things with one node
5) output as .jpg image with a reasonable file size
Learning to use this software might have you scratch your head in the beginning, but once you know how, you can save your setup, and reuse it for your next photo or whatever.
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#43 Reply
Posted by
xani
on 07 Dec, 2017 17:50
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Downloading Fusion just to scale some pictures is like using scope as a multimeter
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#44 Reply
Posted by
Seekonk
on 07 Dec, 2017 20:03
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I have a firm belief that people that feel the need to post high resolution photos have no chance of fixing anything. They are a crutch for those that don't want to go through the logical process to diagnosis the problem. I won't help those who just clog up posts with meaningless crap.
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#45 Reply
Posted by
cdev
on 08 Dec, 2017 00:37
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2Mb per image will still give you a hell of a large and detailed image if you compress it intelligently.
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#46 Reply
Posted by
nanofrog
on 08 Dec, 2017 01:30
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I'll set up an account on imgur or similar since they cannot be posted here.
FWIW, you don't have to create an account with imgur just to upload and post the image.
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#47 Reply
Posted by
Awesome14
on 08 Dec, 2017 05:19
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Just another form of gambling, or treasure hunting. It's worth it if it's any easy fix. But if the transformer is open, you lose.
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#48 Reply
Posted by
CJay
on 08 Dec, 2017 09:07
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Just another form of gambling, or treasure hunting. It's worth it if it's any easy fix. But if the transformer is open, you lose.
It's a gamble, yes, but the odds are stacked in favour of the gambler, especially if they have the help of a forum like this and a modicum of sense.
Plus, every repair gives you the opportunity to learn something even if you don't get a functioning device at the end of it so it's never a losing proposition if you're doing it for hobby/education.
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#49 Reply
Posted by
Seekonk
on 08 Dec, 2017 11:57
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I have a firm belief that people that feel the need to post high resolution photos have no chance of fixing anything. They are a crutch for those that don't want to go through the logical process to diagnosis the problem. I won't help those who just clog up posts with meaningless crap.
If you have to trace a board from pictures, do you prefer a high quality DSLR 20MP image or do you prefer a pixelated digitally zoomed phone camera image?
I almost think the internet is a hindrance to learning electronics. When I learned electronics there was no internet and no one to talk to, I had to read and experiment. The OP seems to have done is deprive this supply from someone that could use it. He has just given up at not finding a bad fuse. Uploading detailed pictures just screams of fix this for me while I sit back. I have no interest in tracing out boards over the internet. I understand that it is easy to look at a mass of parts and think it is just black magic. Diagnosis is an art. You make a list of what you know and what you don't know about the problem. A power supply is just made up of a bunch of simple blocks. It is a logic chain you work through. A bad photo tells you enough, look in this section. Don't think the OP has detailed the problem beyond "It's broken." The OP needs to step up and approach this logically.