Hey guys,
I've just etched 12 10cm by 3cm boards and I need to remove the toner. Typically I would use some cotton wool and acetone combined with some elbow grease.
With the amount of boards I need to process, does anyone have any tips for making this a quicker and easier task?
Acetone acetone. Just let them sit in it a while before scrubbing. It will come right off. It takes some time for it to fully permiate the toner, but some time will replace scrubbing.
I'd often use my fingernails.
One word of advice: leave the toner on the board, for as long as possible, as it protects the board. In fact, you may fine you're able to solder through it, in which case removing it is unnecessary, unless you don't like its appearance.
A shallow polypropylene box with a tight fitting lid helps. It stops the acetone evaporating so fast. Some brands of readymeal come in a suitable box.
I wouldn't want to solder through toner. Burning the plastics in it will f--k up a plated bit before too long. If solderability is a concern, electroless tin or silver plating is an option, or simply wipe the copper with liquid no-clean R or RMA flux and let it dry.
I normally use paint solvent, I don't know if this is a worldwide name but here we say thinner.
Or sometimes I just scratch with steel wool (again, I'm not sure if this is the correct name). But I prefer the solvent
If you wipe the board with acetone, the solvent sucks the cabon black from the toner right into the board, permanently. On a lighter colored FR-4, you can clearly see the stains.
I wouldn't say steel wool is any easier than dropping boards in an acetone bath. But it isn't particularly hard to do, and it shines up the traces, nicely.
I wouldn't use steel wool onj a fine pitch board - to much risk of leaving a fragment behind shorting a couple of tracks. There are various non-metallic fine abrasive pads made by 3M and their competitors that are a much better choice for track cleaning of unpopulated boards.
I wouldn't use steel wool onj a fine pitch board - to much risk of leaving a fragment behind shorting a couple of tracks. There are various non-metallic fine abrasive pads made by 3M and their competitors that are a much better choice for track cleaning of unpopulated boards.
+1
On simple PCB's steel wool works fine, just use a light pressure.
Fine grit wet&dry paper works too use a 400 grit and/or finer. Your choice whether to do it wet or dry and except for basic TH PCB's clean well after with solvent.
I wouldn't use steel wool onj a fine pitch board - to much risk of leaving a fragment behind shorting a couple of tracks. There are various non-metallic fine abrasive pads made by 3M and their competitors that are a much better choice for track cleaning of unpopulated boards.
I have never had an issue with steel wool used for washing dishes - a good rinsing will remove any such fragments. You will have to check the board with an ohmmeter anyway because there could be hair cracks or shorts from bad transfer or under/over etching.
The 3M/Scotchbrite pads that you mention don't work well for removing toner because they aren't stiff enough. They are great for preparing the board beforehand, though.
Thank you all for the suggestions
I ended up soaking the boards in acetone for about 10 minutes. After that the toner came off extremely easily.
Turps or Meths, i forget which, one of them will just dissolve it right away with no rubbing required.
Thank you all for the suggestions
I ended up soaking the boards in acetone for about 10 minutes. After that the toner came off extremely easily.
That's likely an overkill - I just take one of those cotton pads used for removing makeup, put a bit of acetone on it and rub. The toner comes right off and I don't use up so much acetone.
I use a product called GOOF OFF, "professional strength". I pour it on the board or pour it on a folded tissue and the toner wipes right off. It comes in a can you pour or a spray can like paint. I live in the US and it's readily available in hardware stores, supermarkets, and stores like walmart.
^ Does that stuff do anything acetone doesn't do a lot cheaper?
I wouldn't use steel wool on a fine pitch board - to much risk of leaving a fragment behind shorting a couple of tracks. There are various non-metallic fine abrasive pads made by 3M and their competitors that are a much better choice for track cleaning of unpopulated boards.
I don't think this is rather likely to occur with any type of steel wool, but I do use a larger gauge stainless steel wool. In the sink with a little soap, followed with a rinse.
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The 3M/Scotchbrite pads that you mention don't work well for removing toner because they aren't stiff enough. They are great for preparing the board beforehand, though.
Just as an FYI, there is more than one type of 3M/Scotch-Brite. Search on google for "Scotch-Brite industrial".
Just as an FYI, there is more than one type of 3M/Scotch-Brite. Search on google for "Scotch-Brite industrial".
OK, thanks for the info. However, that is not what supermarkets usually carry here. The one sold here is the soft, don't-scratch-my-expensive-teflon-pan variety.
Not all toners are the same.
My Epson laser printer toner won't dissolve with acetone, no matter how long I let it soak or how vigorously I rub it.
But it comes right off with Nitro paint thinner (special thinner for nitrocellulose based paints).
Not all toners are the same.
No, they're not.
I came across this when researching toner transfer systems and toner reactive foils some time ago.