I guess first thing is a laser printer. Anything special about it? Or can I just go with a cheap one? Also how much am I looking to spend on it?
What do you print on? Staples had a box of 100 clear transparencies but they were 70 bucks! I know staples is a rip off but at that price this would be cost prohibitive.
anything special about the UV light? Will a black light work? I don't like the idea of eye damage. Ferric Chloride seems to be the best chemical except for its not safe to dump down the drain but I can manage safe disposal.
I also saw a youtube video where the guy prints on what looks to be a magazine page and irons it on the copper. Has anyone tried this?
For time I don't want to mail order, I want to do everything at my house. For size its mainly going to through hole or if surface mount its going to be the largest size packages I can find for analog parts. For IC's that have to be surface mount I will go with the largest size I can find, I don't like working with small things. I don't have the skill to create anything crazy: Think 555 timers and simple op amps. No crazy bga's or super fine pitch pins. Sorry I don't know the size numbers. Is the ironing a magazine tonner transfer method? Seems like a good way to simplify things.
I guess first thing is a laser printer. Anything special about it? Or can I just go with a cheap one? Also how much am I looking to spend on it?
What do you print on? Staples had a box of 100 clear transparencies but they were 70 bucks! I know staples is a rip off but at that price this would be cost prohibitive.
anything special about the UV light? Will a black light work? I don't like the idea of eye damage. Ferric Chloride seems to be the best chemical except for its not safe to dump down the drain but I can manage safe disposal.
I also saw a youtube video where the guy prints on what looks to be a magazine page and irons it on the copper. Has anyone tried this?
You can buy plain copper clad board and spray it with the photoresist but I wouldn't bother, just get pre-sensitised board, as it's much easier.
For time I don't want to mail order, I want to do everything at my house. For size its mainly going to through hole or if surface mount its going to be the largest size packages I can find for analog parts. For IC's that have to be surface mount I will go with the largest size I can find, I don't like working with small things. I don't have the skill to create anything crazy: Think 555 timers and simple op amps. No crazy bga's or super fine pitch pins. Sorry I don't know the size numbers. Is the ironing a magazine tonner transfer method? Seems like a good way to simplify things.
Laser is good for doing toner transfer (in fact, inkjet will not work for that at all). That's the part with the magazine paper and ironing. Search for "toner transfer" on Google, there are tons of tutorials on it.
If you want to do UV photolithography, then laser printer is actually not the best option. You want as opaque black as possible and cheap lasers rarely have sufficient toner coverage on larger areas. Office grade printers usually do, but unless you can find one second hand, they are not cheap. There are some tricks, like stacking two printouts to get more opaque black, but it is both more costly (you need two transparencies) and can be a royal pain in the butt to align.
UV light - black light may work, depends on the wavelength. You do not want a germicide/disinfection lamp (that's where the eye damage can occur). It is not necessary for this job. If you don't want to buy/build an exposer using UV tubes, look for a small UV lamp used by ladies to cure their glue-on nails. Those are sold cheaply in drugstores.
Another option is to use UV LEDs. It does work surprisingly well, there are plenty of instructions on how to build one online (e.g. http://www.instructables.com/id/UV-LED-Exposure-Box/ ) and the UV leds are fairly cheap.
The problem with incomplete coverage with laser printers can also be an issue for toner transfer too. Inket isn't ideal either, as it can run and bleed, causing lines to loose their definition and be thicker than they should be. Personally, I haven't had an issue with incomplete coverage with laser printers, when using the photographic process. I've found it to be more of a problem with toner transfer.
Wow, a decent project on instructables: they're not many of them on that site!
You can buy plain copper clad board and spray it with the photoresist but I wouldn't bother, just get pre-sensitised board, as it's much easier.
Actually, the cheapest and easiest method is to use the dry film resist. You only need a cheap office laminator to laminate it on the board.
I have also tried to use it to make transparencies using tracing paper* and unless I have stacked at least two, it was not sufficiently opaque for the dry film resist - even covered parts were getting exposed slightly...
A reminder... Keep in mind that doing solder mask at home isn't that easy as etching copper, and without solder mask, god help you on soldering surface mount parts...
I have also tried to use it to make transparencies using tracing paper* and unless I have stacked at least two, it was not sufficiently opaque for the dry film resist - even covered parts were getting exposed slightly. Two stacked produced lines that were blurry in some places because of misalignment or maybe the glass I have used to compress it didn't put even pressure on the entire surface.
(* You don't have to use real plastic transparencies - paper is enough, because it is mostly transparent for the UV light. Another advantage is that it warps less in the laser printer than a transparency, even those that are actually intended for lasers)
Wow, a decent project on instructables: they're not many of them on that site!I have actually built a board with UV leds based on that one to test it - it works pretty well for exposing the dry film. I am definitely more comfortable playing with that than having to deal with fragile tubes and high voltage.
Just for clarity's sake, you are talking about tracing paper there, rather than ordinary copier paper? I agree, tracing paper is perfect and will work with most printers better than film. I don't know about ordinary copier paper, which I'm pretty sure is opaque to UV, as it fluoresces a greenish blue, under UV, although that might still be a short enough wavelength to expose the photoresist.
Another possibility is black light LED strip, which can be cut up into pieces and stuck to the inside of a suitable enclosure. I don't know if it's more expensive per watt of UV, than using 5mm LEDs, (the SMD LEDs in the strip are more powerful than 5mm units) but it will save a lot of soldering.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5M-12V-REAL-UV-Ultraviolet-Strip-Light-Tape-Light-SMD5050-LEDs-Blacklight-/192119454976
I've not had much luck with toner transfer - I've made a few boards but they always took several attempts to get the toner released from the paper intact.
A reminder... Keep in mind that doing solder mask at home isn't that easy as etching copper, and without solder mask, god help you on soldering surface mount parts. You will end up with using tons of flux and a very messy work space.
without solder mask it is a bit harder but hardly impossible.
I've not had much luck with toner transfer - I've made a few boards but they always took several attempts to get the toner released from the paper intact.
Even recent article on Hackaday on toner transfer totally omits the pre-etch part which I deem just THE MOST IMPORTANT PART.
scrubbing the board clean with a scouring pad and then properly degreasing it will do the same job,