One more observation. If you are planning to do critical audio work, the function generator may not be the first choice. You would want a generator with very low distortion. Usually what is typically called an audio generator is desired. Sine only, sometimes with square as well, but you can get them with 0.001% harmonic distortion. Older HPs and some Tek TM500's are available on eBay for a reasonable price.
paul
A very good video, I thought.
"Is it worth a buy?" skimmed through again, and this time with details and deep thought, put your illusion aside. you've been foolish to read what you dont want to read. btw, who's been off topic?
You seem set on taking my lighthearted comments the wrong way!
What type of tweezers do people recommend for handling/positioning surface mount components. Just had a look on Farnells site and there are a confusing selection. I need a basic set that can handle 1206 chip caps/resistors and small SOIC IC's. Also does anyone sell stainless toothpicks for positioning parts under a microscope?
Thanks.
David.
You can use a cheap set of dental picks. Distributors sell them as well (eg.
digikey), check in the "Scribers & Probes" category on farnell.
One more observation. If you are planning to do critical audio work, the function generator may not be the first choice. You would want a generator with very low distortion. Usually what is typically called an audio generator is desired. Sine only, sometimes with square as well, but you can get them with 0.001% harmonic distortion. Older HPs and some Tek TM500's are available on eBay for a reasonable price.
paul
A PC soundcard or external USB audio interface may well give you better quality audio-band waveforms than a function generator.
I would like to show you how I organize the spare parts. I have an updated list of all components (IC’s, diodes and transistors) and keep them in small boxes which are labeled (see attached image).
This list (excel file) has several pages, one for each part type: uC, opamp, regulators, etc.
Each line corresponds to a single part and has all the information needed: exact model number, quantity, SMD or through-hole indication, small description with the most important features, link to data sheet and finally the box number where it is stored.
This list is very useful when developing a new project. In this way I always know what components I have or not and the respective packages in case I’m designing the PCB.
"Is it worth a buy?" skimmed through again, and this time with details and deep thought, put your illusion aside. you've been foolish to read what you dont want to read. btw, who's been off topic?
You seem set on taking my lighthearted comments the wrong way!
i'm sorry if its misinterpreted (maybe just my illusion). but be carefull with your statement, there's people with not so lighthearted here. and you simple joke of "mech is a god->off topic" might not work with others, esp me.
anyway just want to add to the collection... i have this in my lab (workroom)...
A good nudie calender on the wall never goes astray.
A good nudie calender on the wall never goes astray.
Do not mix the standard tools of Electricians,
with the those for Electronics Lab
They have an nudie calender with the Arduino on it.
Do not mix the standard tools of Electricians,
with the those for Electronics Lab
They have an nudie calender with the Arduino on it.
I hate to disagree with a fellow countryman (sort of, I am second generation greek-american), but many projects eventually require electricians tools for striping, crimping, cutting and wiring things. Although most electrician's tools do not sit on my bench, they are in the toolbox 6 feet away.
paul
Hello Paul , I was exclusively refer to the wall calendar post . ( that was an smart made joke )
Regards
Kiriakos
Which soldering wire out of
these three should I pick? In the video Dave told to choose 60/40 one but then he agreed with someone on youteube, that 63/37 is better choice, but I cannot find such one.
One more question - why is the last one in the list so expensive?
Which soldering wire out of these three should I pick? In the video Dave told to choose 60/40 one but then he agreed with someone on youteube, that 63/37 is better choice, but I cannot find such one.
One more question - why is the last one in the list so expensive?
You should try to get 63/37. It is known as eutectic solder. This means that it is an allow that has only solid and liquid states (other than vapor at high temps). All other alloys have a third "shush" state. If you do a lot of soldering with 50/50 or 60/40 you will remember the slush state. This means that 63/37 is a bit easier to work with, and has the same basic properties of 60/40.
paul
Well I will add too an suggestion about a tool
I got it for heatshrink tubes, but now I use it for many more tasks.
The secret to that immaculate Kiriakos blow wave is finally out.
I thought I read that reason we should use 63/37 solder is because the melting points of the compounds are close to/identical, as opposed to 60/40 whereas one would melt sooner than the other and make a mess of the soldering work.
One useful category of items is resistance/capacitance substitution boxes. Even a 100k pot with some croc clip leads attached can be quite useful. If you don't know what you're doing when designing something, just substitute the pot for a fixed resistor, adjust until your circuit works best, measure the pot, and now you know what value resistor to use
Put a 1k in series with the wiper, so you don't blow stuff up when you turn it all one way.
I agree with the suggestion of croc clip jumper leads - they are good for prototyping circuits that exceed the power handling capabilities of a breadboard.
You will probably be building things with mains power supplies eventually, so an isolation transformer and insulation tester are a good idea.
Which soldering wire out of these three should I pick? In the video Dave told to choose 60/40 one but then he agreed with someone on youteube, that 63/37 is better choice, but I cannot find such one.
One more question - why is the last one in the list so expensive?
You should try to get 63/37. It is known as eutectic solder. This means that it is an allow that has only solid and liquid states (other than vapor at high temps). All other alloys have a third "shush" state. If you do a lot of soldering with 50/50 or 60/40 you will remember the slush state. This means that 63/37 is a bit easier to work with, and has the same basic properties of 60/40.
paul
So I should pick this one - 62/36/2 Sn/Pb/Ag?
I thought I read that reason we should use 63/37 solder is because the melting points of the compounds are close to/identical, as opposed to 60/40 whereas one would melt sooner than the other and make a mess of the soldering work.
Here is a brief explanation:
http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/0244_tsm/index.htmlPaul