You might be able to use a Clipsal 2025XA, and substitute the switch with a Clipsal 30M35COOK.
That layout is available with 10A switch mechanisms all around from a number of manufacturers.
To get your high current extra switch, you would be best to buy one of those and then get a suitably rated switch mechanism and swap it.
You might be able to use a Clipsal 2025XA, and substitute the switch with a Clipsal 30M35COOK.
Something like that ^^^
Actually scratch that, Its only one pole, they also have one with nothing written on it.
You could use a industrial din relay ? mount it in a fuse box under the bench.
I'm pretty sure those switches won't fit the holes for the little 10A ones.
I may be totally insane, but.. can you not get a plate to take a socket and a dedicated switch?
Clipsal 2000/2Mate with:
Clipsal 2031V45 (do you need DP? 2013VD32)
and
Clipsal 2000V15All you need's a simple box.
E: And said box would be a
Clipsal 2157/2And yes, if all you've got is a single box you're going to have to attack the wall. Best to get it over with quickly, before anyone gets attached to that piece of plaster.
I'm pretty sure those switches won't fit the holes for the little 10A ones.
I may be totally insane, but.. can you not get a plate to take a socket and a dedicated switch?
Clipsal 2000/2
Mate with:
Clipsal 2031V45 (do you need DP? 2013VD32)
and
Clipsal 2000V15
All you need's a simple box.
E: And said box would be a Clipsal 2157/2
And yes, if all you've got is a single box you're going to have to attack the wall. Best to get it over with quickly, before anyone gets attached to that piece of plaster.
Nope, has to go into a standard power point sized hole on a glass splashback.
I think you might be stuffed. I certainly haven't seen any AU offerings which take a >30A switch and a socket.
Is the glass up yet? If it's not, get it cut again.
Also available in single switche socket with extra switch.
C2015X + 30M35COOK
Don't need dual power point.
Yeah, looks like it might. They're, uh, lacking in the documentation department, as always. Hell of a small body for a 35A switch, though.
High current one might be quite a bit deeper than a standard outlet.
Do you actually need the switch to be accessible? - presumably cooker has its own controls - could you hide a switch in a cupboard?
Or maybe standard switch and a remote contactor
High current one might be quite a bit deeper than a standard outlet.
Do you actually need the switch to be accessible? - presumably cooker has its own controls - could you hide a switch in a cupboard?
Or maybe standard switch and a remote contactor
They have much the same requirement we do, isolation switch exposed and visible within 2m.
No the switch needs to be accessible, as if for a chip fire. So slightly to the side.
You can get a 35amp mechanism from any wholesaler. They will be marked Hob. (Some hangover from the British days).
30M35HOB
Yeah I don't know how they can cram it in.
IIRC terminating 6mm csa wire into it can be a bit of a jam.
No the switch needs to be accessible, as if for a chip fire. So slightly to the side.
You can get a 35amp mechanism from any wholesaler. They will be marked Hob. (Some hangover from the British days).
30M35HOB
Yeah I don't know how they can cram it in.
IIRC terminating 6mm csa wire into it can be a bit of a jam.
It would appear standard markings include cooker, hob, oven, and range, plus c/top, stove, and hotplate.
Yeah under Australian rules the only kitchen item that needs an isolating switch is an electric cooktop.
Hopefully the wholesalers will have something appropriate in stock maybe hotplate, hob or cooker.
You can get a bigger format switch marked cooker but you have to lose the power outlets.
Not sure what the other brands do, but for 35amps you don't want to go to EBay.
Yeah, looks like it might. They're, uh, lacking in the documentation department, as always. Hell of a small body for a 35A switch, though.
Not really. They're not designed for more than a couple of full load disconnects and it's almost always a purely resistive load.
I had a new switchboard put in recently and the sparkle insisted on retro fitting one of these. I spoke to an inspector who clarified it wasn't required as I wasn't working on or upgrading the appliance or circuit, so I had words with the sparkle and got him to see reason.
If you have to fit one though, these single mechs are a good way to do it.
Guess what ads I'm getting now .....
Just use a small switch and a relay or SSR that can handle the amps
Just use a small switch and a relay or SSR that can handle the amps
I'm not even sure that'd be compliant and it'd be a hell of a lot more work.
Don't trust the ratings on Clipsal, those are really optimistic about current ratings, they typically only will handle the rated current for a few switch cycles before cooking themselves. I have had to change a few that burnt out with only a 10A load ( kettle) over a period of around 6 months. Fine for lighting, where you have a 3A load max, but the 16A rating is just junk.
Failure mode is they either melt the contacts out of the plastic, or just weld themselves together entirely. Only bonus is you can remove it a lot easier than to do the same for a CBI unit, but the CBI at least will handle the 16A load for a while.
not good for a product that claims to comply to both SABS and AUS standards, I have had bad luck with the current Chinese made ones.
Just use a small switch and a relay or SSR that can handle the amps
I'm not even sure that'd be compliant and it'd be a hell of a lot more work.
Probably contactor rather than SSR for safety. Just need to use one that doesn't hum when closed.
Yeah, looks like it might. They're, uh, lacking in the documentation department, as always. Hell of a small body for a 35A switch, though.
Not really. They're not designed for more than a couple of full load disconnects and it's almost always a purely resistive load.
This is the aspect that I believe will allow these switches to live a long and happy life. In normal operation, they only have to
pass 30A, not switch it. If you use it as an isolator, it will be turned on and off when there is no load connected. The typical exception case would be that someone might turn on
one hotplate, realise the master switch is off and then turn it on - which will represent a clearly sub-maximal load. I can't think how anyone would turn on all the hotplates first and
then turn on the master.
As for assessing how capable any given switch mechanism is for the ratings it has been given - I will leave that to the manufacturers and to the sparkies who can offer feedback from the field.