If I just reverse the op amp inputs what will happen ? I tried it and my output just stayed on.
Hi Simon, you need to make sure the feedback resistor always goes to the + input.
So if you just reverse the inputs on the diagram I attached, the feedback resistor will now go to the - pin. You need to change this so it goes to the + pin.
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I meant swapping the pins on the circuit I posted.
we are sending these as they are (nuts I know, we have thermostats in stocks that cost a fiver each that we have used for years but they want this junk). Ultimately I am hoping to redesign the wholes thing myself with a micro to do thermostat, fan speed and a delayed power line to a small pump.
Hi Simon, should be the same thing in theory. I suspect the output offset voltage of the op-amp is just enough to keep the gate triggered in one direction. What supply voltage are you using? It says 12V on the diagram but also 24V/28V DC next to where it says 12V. Don't power the gate from more than 15-18V whatever you do...
I'd measure the output of the op-amp with a voltmeter while adjusting the preset pot, and do the same while heating the thermistor with your fingers or a soldering iron. Remember that circuit is configured as an amplifier, not a comparator, and is a complete lash-up. You're relying on the triggering threshold of the logic gate for the 'comparator' bit which is extremely variable. (Well, not extremely as such, but extreme enough). You need to see what the op-amp output voltage is doing when you adjust the op-amp's inputs.
I really really wouldn't recommend using that circuit, it is far from satisfactory. The offset voltage and schmitt trigger threshold will vary with temperature and if you have a marginal design on the bench it will almost certainly fail in the real world. The microcontroller idea is much better, I've replaced plenty of comparators with microcontrollers in commercial designs in the past.
I tried using the schematic in the PDF that someone posted to make a quick breadboard circuit. It was a mess with no hysterysis. I still ended up with op amp type behavior (fading LED) from an LM339..... surely the only way to have histerysis is to put a resistor from output to +input so that as the output switched the resistor is put in parallel with either one side of the other of the reference voltage divider or (assuming compatible) voltage divider formed by the sensor resistor and it's accompanying fixed resistor.
Absolutely right! Were you using my circuit?
I tried using the schematic in the PDF that someone posted to make a quick breadboard circuit. It was a mess with no hysterysis. I still ended up with op amp type behavior (fading LED) from an LM339..... surely the only way to have histerysis is to put a resistor from output to +input so that as the output switched the resistor is put in parallel with either one side of the other of the reference voltage divider or (assuming compatible) voltage divider formed by the sensor resistor and it's accompanying fixed resistor.
If you mean the hand drawn schematic then there is one small but crucial mistake: the comparator output is missing the collector pull-up resistor. If you use an LM339 or similar part, it has an open collector output that does not pull up actively. Thus the relay transistor is never driven properly, unless you insert a pull-up resistor into the circuit.
Otherwise the hysteresis part is correct: it is done using positive feedback. But that also will behave strangely if you dont pull the output up properly.
No I was referring to the Analog Devices PDF that I linked to above. Yes I did use a pull up resistor.
You mean the one I linked to (edit: I guess you linked to it, too)? It has hysteresis, but I think comparators might have troubles sinking significant current so they may not be able to drive the relay coil directly.
My circuit used an additional transistor (I chose a PNP, but could be a P-channel MOSFET instead or the NPN/N-chan variant for opposite logic) to drive the coil.
The one possible issue is I wasn't quite sure where the pullup resistor should tie up to (R6). I picked the relay power source so the transistor will be fully off/on on both high and low levels, but this may cause havoc on the rest of the circuit (haven't calculated it). R5 is used to limit base current so it may not be required if using a MOSFET solution.
You do have the comparator in a positive feedback configuration, right?
yes I'd use a transistor too (a mosfet not a flipping darlington like this old fart did) but my concern at the moment is understanding and getting the comparator to work WITH histerysis.
The attached is what I deem to be a comparator with histerysis, the "sensor" could be any of those resistors to suit.
Yep, sure is. You can tell by the Mk 1 eyball but attached a snap simulation confirming the same. Sorry about the ridiculous comparator symbol, that was the best Multisim could come up with a moment's notice.
By the way, you can't really have a voltage source connected to the comparator output. That will be an effective short when the output transistor conducts. I left that out and it simulates just fine without it.
P.S. scope traces are color coded in the schematic. All traces 5 V/div.
If you mean the hand drawn schematic then there is one small but crucial mistake: the comparator output is missing the collector pull-up resistor. If you use an LM339 or similar part, it has an open collector output that does not pull up actively. Thus the relay transistor is never driven properly, unless you insert a pull-up resistor into the circuit.
Otherwise the hysteresis part is correct: it is done using positive feedback. But that also will behave strangely if you dont pull the output up properly.
My circuit uses an op-amp, Simon seemed to want to use an op-amp.
No I'm happy with a comparator, the idiot that designed the hand drawn schematic used an opamp, probably because he was using the other 3 for something else in the grander scheme of things.
I generally have LM339's knocking around for breadboarding.
The attached is what I deem to be a comparator with histerysis, the "sensor" could be any of those resistors to suit.
This circuit should work mate, what's it doing?
not tried it, we are currently bunging the nut jobs circuit in and forgetting it (along with some hashing up). Wrng i know, but I'm not in charge, I've already recomended we use the comercial thermostats we have around with the necesary protection circuitry added.
By the way, you can't really have a voltage source connected to the comparator output. That will be an effective short when the output transistor conducts. I left that out and it simulates just fine without it.
That's one of the "oddities" of using TINA-TI: you add in "voltage measurement" components (VM1).
Your circuit looks fine, though maybe a larger pullup resistor would work better? You're drawing ~12mA through the pullup when output goes low. The datasheet specs a min rated output current sink of 5mA which would cause Vo = 1.5V.
not tried it, we are currently bunging the nut jobs circuit in and forgetting it (along with some hashing up). Wrng i know, but I'm not in charge, I've already recomended we use the comercial thermostats we have around with the necesary protection circuitry added.
Yeah, it is funny why you guys don't use a commercial temperature trip sensor. These puppies have all this stuff built in and output a digital signal when the trip point is reached. Even have hysteresis built in
I think Dave had a video where he ranted about dumb management (actually, a few different videos)...
yea quite, it's called we conned ourselves out of the money we spent on them so now we must use them, we have commercial stats that do what we want but they won't use them.