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Sorry, I could not help myself.
Three 50V 2A 4 quadrant supplies that can follow a 20kHz sine input. Basically a 40 pound op amp. Makes a pretty good signal gen amplifier up to 20kHz
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Sigh ... Robrenz, will you adopt me, please ?
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The two Philips PE1509 are mostly used. My father bought them before I am on this planet.
The funny thing is the remote control "option". You have to remove some resistors and solder wires in place (see in PDF). Those were times ...
The ELV was self build from a kit. I use it only for higher amps because of the annoying little fan.
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These PE1509s have to be, if you can say this about test equipment, the cutest lab PSUs ever.
According to the manual the front measures just 120x68mm. That's just... tiny. -
similar to the mastech mini:
I bought one for its size and simplicity, for when I needed something non-lab grade but small in size.
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While doing minor cleaning & housekeeping on my bench table, when I was arranging things & moving stuffs around, was a bit struggled when I lifted my favorite and mostly used bench psu which it's weight about 14 Kg / 31 lbs
Ain't got one.
, then suddenly remembered that this forum has no bench psu thread like the popular one "Show your Multimeter!" thread, took snapshots and here we are.
If you have more than one or too many like Dave does
, just post one or two that you "mostly used" when you're tinkering with electronic projects/circuits. Presumably its is adjustable type, and diy type is also welcome. 
Please, post & share the photo of yours, and your own comment about it as well.
Let me start mine, a 36 volt 10 Amps Japanese linear bench psu Kenwood PD36-10AD (Link), probably made around late 80s or early 90s.
Like :
- The auto emergency shutdown feature (crowbar ?), if the voltage rail crossed the adjustable OVP limit, the power switch will snap mechanically to off position instantly.
- Very low over shoot in CC mode when turning ON the output, it won't toast a led like the example attached photo below, really love this particular feature. Remember, this is a 10 Amps capable beast.
Dislike :
- Its so damn heavy and did I say its expensive ?
... looking at the back of my shoulder just in case wifey is peeking 
- Although its working perfectly fine, but still feeling uncomfortable cause there is no service manual available like those cool & great HP (Agilent) bench PSU series.
Front & rear shots, the rear has all those terminals for many features like parallel/series connection, remote sensing, external reference (volt or resistance) for voltage and current loop, remote output on/off and etc.
Now, your turn.
.
PS : Please, resize the photo like 1024 or max 1280 pixels wide, not the raw huuuge sized photo directly from your camera. Also its highly recommended to use the attachment feature to embed photo in your own post like I did here, rather than using external hosting, why ? A nasty example on the 1st post, image at external hosting simply sucks -> HERE
The attach picture feature is right below the dialog box where you type your post. -
Here's mine. A Thurlby PL320 with the K2 module. Nothing special but it's mine and I love it
My dad gave me this a while ago before I got into electronics properly. I didn't realise that PSUs are pretty expensive so I almost gave it away at one point. Glad i didn't though.
The right hand side is adjustable to 2.2A at 32V. The left has two outputs. One 0-30V 1A output that can either be independently adjusted or set to track the main output. Then there's a 7A output on the far left that's adjustable between 4-6V.
There's a date inside reading March 1984, so it's 30 last month! Works perfectly though and I recently calibrated the displays and it's absolutely spot on. And yes, it has those really "heavy" feeling pots.
No fan and doesn't get very hot either.
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Here's mine. A Thurlby PL320 with the K2 module. Nothing special but it's mine and I love it
My dad gave me this a while ago before I got into electronics properly. I didn't realise that PSUs are pretty expensive so I almost gave it away at one point. Glad i didn't though.
The right hand side is adjustable to 2.2A at 32V. The left has two outputs. One 0-30V 1A output that can either be independently adjusted or set to track the main output. Then there's a 7A output on the far left that's adjustable between 4-6V.
There's a date inside reading March 1984, so it's 30 last month! Works perfectly though and I recently calibrated the displays and it's absolutely spot on. And yes, it has those really "heavy" feeling pots.
No fan and doesn't get very hot either.
That's a nice one, you have a very good dad. -
I guess this post will become a little plug for an obscure new Chinese company. I have this small and portable variable DC power supply that I got off aliexpress maybe a year ago, it's named Gopher CPS-3205L (32V @ 5 A). I only paid $65 with shipping, but even after a year I haven't considered getting a better one. It's great. As you can see on the pictures it only has one knob and a switch, a switch to set the voltage or amps, and a knob that you can push to select digit and turn to adjust. The specifiations can be found here: http://gophertc.com/en/cps-3205
Here's some pictures:
On the first picture, it's set to 13.37 V, my cheap ass Vichy read 13.37 V. Overall very accurate.
On the second picture it's set to 13V, the multimeter reads 12.58 V across the 33 ohm resistor. The resistor reads 32.9 ohm, there's 12.58 V across, 12.58/32.9 = 328 mA (as shown on the current reading on the PSU). This current reading can be off at low values I've noticed though.
The third and forth picture is the inside, nothing special, just plain and simple cheap PSU. But it seems very well done, no bodging, no bad solder joints, good layout. What do you think?
The rest are just bodged macro-shot attempts with an improvised extension tube.
I think it's very good and cheap for a beginner, and it doesn't take much space on your desk either. I'd love to know what you people think about it.
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My favorite power supply!
Specs:- Dual isolated channel
- 20V@3A maximum per channel
- Constant voltage and constant current modes
- User maximum setpoints for safety
- Operating Modes: Isolated, Series, Tracking and Parallel
- Output power indication
- LCD with touch screen
- 4 User memories with custom names defined by user
- User setpoints controlled by touch or rotary encoder
- USB Monitoring/control (Isolated)
- Rotary encoder: exponential acceleration algorithm for perfect user experience
- Single toroidal power transformer for minimum size and weight
- Passive cooling (no noise)
- Size: 23x10x20 cm
- Weight: 3.4 kg
Don’t ask me where I bought it, because it’s the only specimen in the universe! O0
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I think it's very good and cheap for a beginner, and it doesn't take much space on your desk either. I'd love to know what you people think about it.
It looks like it's meeting your needs. It's *really* hard to tell from the pictures what to think.
Only way to know for sure would be to scope your PS under different scenarios and using a programmable load.
If you have a scope, try hooking up your supply across a switch and a power resistor and probe the output of the PS while turning the switch on and off.
Repeat the same test, but switching the PS on and off, both with switch open and closed.
Other tests might destroy your supply, so I don't recommend. If you have a DC current probe, you can also look at the current signal. -
I built this one a few days ago. It's a pretty normal 317/337 based dual rail based on a few schematics I found online.
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Sorry but I'm always against wood an cheap plastic on home made power electronics. This thing is a fire hazard.
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Nothing wrong with plastic. The HP/Agilent E361X series are almost totally encased in plastic. Thick plywood is even harder to set on fire than plastic.
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I guess this post will become a little plug for an obscure new Chinese company. I have this small and portable variable DC power supply that I got off aliexpress maybe a year ago, it's named Gopher CPS-3205L (32V @ 5 A).
This looks like a neat little el cheapo unit I'm getting one myself just to have a look at. I may run some tests when I get it and post results here.
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I was tired of shorting PS-ON wires and cutting molexes off computer PSUs all the time to work as temporary power-supplies for my projects, so I decided to make something a little easier to use. It's not variable voltage or current-controlling, but it does what I need it to do.
Pins are nails soldered onto small FR4 squares. I primarily use alligator clips, so these work well.
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WOW! I wouldn't want to fall asleep at the bench using that PSU!
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You're fucking with us, right Whales? Please tell me you are.
At least round off the tops... -
You're fucking with us, right Whales? Please tell me you are.
No, No, no!
At least round off the tops...
Sharpen them up more!
Serves to purposes
1. no need to strip wires, just pierce the insulation
2. It'll teach you about touching live components
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No, No, no!
Sharpen them up more!
Serves to purposes
1. no need to strip wires, just pierce the insulation
2. It'll teach you about touching live components
I actually quite like this suggestion
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WOW! I wouldn't want to fall asleep at the bench using that PSU!
The OCP kicks in rather early and keeps the unit down until a power cycle. None the less, I don't let anything run while I'm asleep -- I've had mere AA batteries melt their holders out overnight before, something I don't want to repeat with anything else.At least round off the tops...
I've spent a lot of time making sure there was no way for my alligator clips to short out on one another, but I have not thought much about the mechanical safety of the nails. I'll smooth them offNo, No, no!
xD
Sharpen them up more!
Serves to purposes
1. no need to strip wires, just pierce the insulation
2. It'll teach you about touching live components
Shaw is a power supply. It menaces with spikes of brass.
FYI the negative rails are merely token: draining more than a few mA across them and any other rail kills the unit. Even at the full potential of 24v, it's not enough to cause you harm when applied externally.
My biggest concern when making this puppy was the choice of computer power supply. Not all PSUs are safe designs in the first place, let alone after years of moisture, heat and dust abuse. Investigation what they are made out of is important.
Eg, would you call this a well designed 12V regulator?
From Death of a Gutless Wonder I. It's a great read, as are the two sequels.
Some designs do the same to create a 3.3V rail from the 5V rail. 2*0.7 approx vdrop on the diodes -> approx 3.6V. Not exactly best or safe practice, but it happens.
Making sure your unit has useful OCP is also important. If it self destructs before the OCP/UVP kicks in, then it might as well not be there. Similarly some units are designed to fail the silicon before anything else in order to protect the expensive glass fuses. You can't have customers ringing up and complaining about how much fuse replacement costs -- it would defeat the whole purpose of not having a public phone number or traceable manufacture!
(Yes these units are probably illegal in most countries, but nobody notices/cares. Don't trust cheap/free power supplies.)
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Pins are nails soldered onto small FR4 squares.
Hmm... A new type of "bed of nails" testing perhaps
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long post that i want to quote but only to show i refer to you
This all applies to car PSUs for computers too;
THIS IS NOT AN ACCEPTABLE ATX PSU NOT EVEN FOR A CARPUTER!
Spend 3x the amount, get something like this, which is still sweet fuck all and get something that won't cook a few transistors every time you start your car! -
THIS IS NOT AN ACCEPTABLE ATX PSU NOT EVEN FOR A CARPUTER!
Link is not working for me. -
fixt