Has anyone come across any decent pick-up tool for components? I see there is the Yihua 850A(II) and the high priced Weller KDS806V. Am I missing one that's worthwhile?
I've started designing my own, but would be keen to try one that is supposed to work well.
I added a foot switch-operated solenoid valve to an
Aoyue 932, and am pretty happy with the result.
The valve and its power supply fit neatly inside the original enclosure. I added a barrel jack at the back of the unit for the foot switch. The hole in the handpiece is permanently sealed with a bit of tape.
I added a foot switch-operated solenoid valve to an Aoyue 932, and am pretty happy with the result.
The valve and its power supply fit neatly inside the original enclosure. I added a barrel jack at the back of the unit for the foot switch. The hole in the handpiece is permanently sealed with a bit of tape.
I saw the Aoyue, is it a similar pump to the one I used but put in a box?
SteveyG,
The hole on the pickup tool is a bad idea. When you move your finger you upset the placement and there is still some suction because the resistance between the hole and tip is low. The trick is to put the hole at the other end of the hose. Then you have one hand doing placement, the other regulating airflow. I bought a cheap vacuum pick up tool (eg.
like this) and poked a hole into the hose close to the pump with a hot soldering iron tip. I use it for manual placement for reflow soldering and moving ICs between trays.
I will be blocking that hole, it's not needed anymore as the solenoid does all the work.
Tweezers are great and my usual tool, but I have a kit to build in a video soon with over 100 SMD LEDs. Keeping the polarity correct is a pain as you can't use tweezers to get them out of the tape!
Hakko 394 is very good. Battery powered, cordless. When you let go the button, the part immediately falls. It's an old school leaf spring mechanical contact switch, so lifting your finger that is on the button is no different than lifting a finger off an air hole. Well, only it's much better, in fact. There's no click/bounce, no change in force where the suction on your finger breaks, and a thou or two of movement breaks the low voltage connection. Just ease up and the part immediately falls, with no delay while the air pressure drops. (Partly because it produces such weak suction to begin with, granted!)
I imagine it won't pick up really heavy parts. But if you are all SMD, there's not much this won't do. I haven't had any issues due to low suction, yet.
Hakko 394 is very good. Battery powered, cordless. When you let go the button, the part immediately falls. It's an old school mechanical contact switch, so lifting your finger that is on the button is no different than lifting a finger off an air hole. Well, only it's much better, in fact. There's no click/bounce, no change in force where the suction on your finger breaks, and a thou or two of movement breaks the low voltage connection. And the part immediately falls, with no delay while the air pressure drops. (Partly because it produces such weak suction to begin with, granted!)
It won't pick up heavy parts. But if you are all SMD, there's not much this won't do.
Thanks for the info, I'll take a look at that one
In 2017, I built myself a cheap vacuum tool from a
Schego pump, two cheap solenoid valves from eBay, a pedal switch and one of these Chinese vacuum pipettes. The pump had to be opened to convert it to "vacuum" mode, but it's kinda designed to be converted. The rest was pretty much straight forward. One of the valves opens when I press the pedal switch to pick up a part, the other one opens when I release the pedal to quickly release the vacuum and drop the part. All in all I spent around 40€ or so.
Works good enough for me.
I have the Hakko 394 - and its very nice and small. It might be a bit overprice but I don't regret getting it.
That's neat, I've not come across that one before.
How is it to handle in terms of balance and fit in the hand? Is the vibration an issue?
No Vibrations at all; I might try to shoot a quick video and show it to you. Its not as big either
^Unfortunately, the 394 solves all the problems of a conventional pickup tool without any of the fun of solenoids, foot pedals, and air compressors, let alone the wires/tubes.
BTW, OP, you might want to try some different size needles for your passives. What you use in your video is enormous. 25 AWG needle is about right for 0603 and will work up to 1206 just fine, using the 394. The needle you use looks like it could pick up big SMD tantalum caps and what not. It looks like it might not even be sealing on those resistors.
I ended up just picking out the first out the bag, yes it's huge
Will conclude this project soon.
I added a foot switch-operated solenoid valve to an Aoyue 932, and am pretty happy with the result.
The valve and its power supply fit neatly inside the original enclosure. I added a barrel jack at the back of the unit for the foot switch. The hole in the handpiece is permanently sealed with a bit of tape.
I have the same Aoyue 932 and would like to do the same modification as the finger move to drop the piece makes the device for me less accurate compared to reverse
action tweezers. (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V8SLF2T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I believe that with the foot control, the pump would however be handy for dropping components to pcb.
I have tried to search the internet but just found videos how to use the modded aoyue-932, but not any video or web page showing the modded device itself and exact parts needed for the modification. I do not know anything about solenoid valve pumps, never used one. I assume that it would need to be something called "2 way 3 position valve"? But even from those there are multiple control voltage options, sizes and whether to have normally open or normally closed one. So some help and pictures would really be appreciated :-)
I have tried to search the internet but just found videos how to use the modded aoyue-932, but not any video or web page showing the modded device itself and exact parts needed for the modification. I do not know anything about solenoid valve pumps, never used one. I assume that it would need to be something called "2 way 3 position valve"? But even from those there are multiple control voltage options, sizes and whether to have normally open or normally closed one. So some help and pictures would really be appreciated :-)
If you watch Steves video it looks like he used a "VT307-5D1-01F-Q". 3-port 24V solenoid:
"Series VT 3port, direct operated poppet valves are compact in size, yet provide large flow capacity, and low power consumption. The series is suitable for use in vacuum applications. The VT valve is a single valve with 6 functions (universal porting type) such as N.C. valve, N.O. valve, divider valve, selector valve, etc. The manifold style valve, series VO, can be easily converted from N.C. (normally closed) to N.O. (normally open) by merely turning over the switch cover."
I used a 3/2-way Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC) (3-ports 2-positions) 12V vacuum rated poppet valve, which cost $8.
Voltage depends on what you want to use for a control voltage.
Then make sure you can get fittings for the hole sizes it uses to connect to your tubing.
Has anyone come across any decent pick-up tool for components?
Use the magic words "luer lock". This is the fitting used between needles and syringes. It's very popular in hospitals, but also used for dispensing solder paste, glues, and all sorts of other liquids. You can buy both straight or bent needles for very little money, and the rest can easily be made from parts lying around. (Except for the vacuum pump).
Has anyone come across any decent pick-up tool for components?
Use the magic words "luer lock". This is the fitting used between needles and syringes. It's very popular in hospitals, but also used for dispensing solder paste, glues, and all sorts of other liquids. You can buy both straight or bent needles for very little money, and the rest can easily be made from parts lying around. (Except for the vacuum pump).
Did you read his next statement to understand the context of the thread? Or watch the video that he made, from 2019...?
"Has anyone come across any decent pick-up tool for components?
I see there is the Yihua 850A(II) and the high priced Weller KDS806V. Am I missing one that's worthwhile?"
He was talking about the whole product.
If you watch Steves video it looks like he used a "VT307-5D1-01F-Q". 3-port 24V solenoid:
"Series VT 3port, direct operated poppet valves are compact in size, yet provide large flow capacity, and low power consumption. The series is suitable for use in vacuum applications. The VT valve is a single valve with 6 functions (universal porting type) such as N.C. valve, N.O. valve, divider valve, selector valve, etc. The manifold style valve, series VO, can be easily converted from N.C. (normally closed) to N.O. (normally open) by merely turning over the switch cover."
I used a 3/2-way Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC) (3-ports 2-positions) 12V vacuum rated poppet valve, which cost $8.
Voltage depends on what you want to use for a control voltage.
Then make sure you can get fittings for the hole sizes it uses to connect to your tubing.
Aix confirmed for me on private mail that he has also bought 1/4 inch valve many years ago and I measured that outside radius of air-tube on Aoyue 932 seems to be about 7.5mm.
So I believe 1/4 inch NTP 12v or 24v valve could be fit to tube with some adapter. For example this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095VTDKHL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A37DFQ476WZ5XM&th=1Or alternatively the "VT307-5D1-01F" you mentioned seems to cost about 35$.
https://www.smcpneumatics.com/VT307-5D1-01F-Q.html Second thing is the normally off momentary foot switch like this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/momentary-power-foot-switch-57199.htmlThird thing is the 12V/1a power supply that is connected from foot switch to valve.
Did you just cut the Aoyue air-pipe and then but the valve in the middle? It seemed to be sealed pretty well at least on my machine and did not figure out yet easy way to unplug it.
I don't have the Auyue 932 but likely either the tubing is glued on or they used a barbed fitting which can make it hard to remove. Cutting it inline should work for you? Or put the valve inside the unit if there is space.
The foot switch you linked is 120V, you want to be switching the 12V. It can still work fine of course, assuming you cut off the 120V plug part of it.
You may be right, I thought that switch has 12V output. Any recommendation for footswitch that would have directly the 12V output?
You may be right, I thought that switch has 12V output. Any recommendation for footswitch that would have directly the 12V output?
How would it? There’s no standardized 12V plug, unlike the 120V mains plug and receptacle.