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After buying and refurbishing some older Fluke DMMs for use on my workbench during the past couple years, I recently decided to try something a little more complicated. So I found a crusty old "parts or repair" Tektronix 465 on eBay. It looked physically intact and the pix showed that it at least made a dot when the beam-finder button was pushed. Good enough, so I set about to win the auction.
The scope arrived safe and sound since it was well-packed. And yep, it was a bit dirty and pretty much dead. Looks as if it has spent the last 20 yrs in someone's garage.
Looking inside: The sweep/trigger board, with the timebase board behind it. Power supply transformer and filter caps are visible towards the rear.
The vertical amp board is on the other side.
The power supply, high-voltage, horizontal deflection and calibrator circuit are on the bottom board:
The vertical deflection driver is nestled in beside the CRT neck. Lots of flying leads and point-to-point construction on the output. I won't be touching this unless absolutely necessary.
Powering it on, I got a dot when I pressed the beam-finder, and that was it. Checked all the power supplies, all of them are pretty much spot-on with no ripple to speak of. All of the transistors are socketed, so since there were some signs of oxidation, I re-seated every transistor I could get my fingers on. Horizontal sweep appears! Looks linear and perfectly normal. But no vertical deflection at all, including the position controls. And the intensity control has to be turned all the way up to see anything. Which leads to the trace disappearing at higher sweep speeds.
The Tek 465 has a "trigger view" switch which basically disconnects both vertical amps and instead connects the vertical deflection driver to a trigger signal sample from the sweep/trigger board. It's a cam and leaf arrangement built right onto the PC board. Punching this switch vigorously showed some noisy vertical deflection. Examining the switch I can see some crud in it.
So I cleaned it by soaking a paper strip in IPA and moving it back and forth between the contacts.
Vertical deflection now looks pretty good, so on to the intensity problem. Selecting either the "Mix" or "A-intensified" horizontal modes should result in the delayed section of the sweep being very bright. Instead, it seems this section is about the only thing readily visible. The regular part of the trace is just barely visible with the intensity turned to max. Not normal, but somewhat promising.
The high voltage supply is supposed to be -2450V. Checking it shows -2400V, so I tweaked the HV adjustment up a bit. The manual says the CRT grid bias should be adjusted for a dim dot in X-Y mode when the intensity control is set for a 20V output on the Z-axis (intensity) amp. Interesting, the Z-axis amp output will only go to 15V with the control at max. The Z-axis amp consists of 4 discrete transistors, so I check through it and can't find anything wrong. The inputs to this amp are several diode-ORed signals from various places. Blanking inputs pull up, intensifying inputs pull down. So I start checking the blanking inputs, and when I get to the "Chopped Blanking" input, it looks fishy. Pulling the cable for this input results in a very bright trace!
Working backwards, the chopped blanking signal comes from a common-emitter transistor amp, which is fed from a small toroidal coupling transformer. It's supposed to provide beam blanking while the beam traverses from one channel to the other in chop mode. The transistor tests good, but is never turning on because it appears to have no DC bias. This results in the collector resistor pulling up the Z-axis input really hard. Found it! The secondary winding on the toroid is broken right in the middle. It appears to have taken a serious blow, perhaps from the case of the scope.
As a temporary fix, I scraped some enamel off of each broken end and made a little solder splice. I'll make a more permanent repair after locating some enameled wire to rewind the secondary.
Success... It's alive!
And happy.
Further checkout reveals no other major problem that I can find. Both vertical and horizontal calibration is a little off, but not too much. The front panel area needs serious cleaning, and of course all the vertical attenuator and timebase switch contacts as well. I'm pleased and somewhat surprised that the scope is operating this well without having to replace a single component (except for the bypass cap I broke with a pair of needle-nose pliers.)
Next up, some disassembly and cleaning...
Edit 1-July-2017: Photobucket sucks. -
Nice! It's great seeing some of these old scopes being cleaned up like new.
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Yea, I find the work quite satisfying. Speaking of being cleaned up...
The front panel is grimy and the structural plate of aluminum behind it is suffering from oxidation/corrosion, especially around the holes. This scope has not seen a humidity-controlled environment in years...
After removing the sweep/trigger board, the timebase board is accessible. This is the A and B timebase range control with the cover off. More delicate cam-and-leaf stuff to clean. I used more paper strips and IPA, then finished up with some Caig De-oxit for good measure.
The front panel was cleaned with IPA, then scrubbed with a toothbrush and baking soda toothpaste. All the knobs and plastic bits got the same treatment.
More cleaning and dusting, resulting in a pile of scope bits to re-assemble.
Re-assembly started. Vertical amps and sweep/trigger boards re-installed. The front aluminum piece was cleaned with a Dremel tool with an emery wheel. No more corrosion.
Getting the pots, controls and front-panel bits back in order. The BNC jacks were cleaned with a Dremel tool with a wire brush attachment. At least on the outside, not sure how to get the inside part.
The old power cord was stiff, cracked and nasty-looking, so a new one has been re-installed. The old strain relief was cleaned and re-installed along with the new cord.
Re-assembly complete and ready to re-test.
The trigger-view switch acted up again. I cleaned it once more with IPA and also treated with some Caig De-oxit. It has behaved properly since then.
Nice sharp traces for an old scope.
The service manual has an extensive procedure for performance checks and calibration, so the next big thing is to go through that. For now though, I think I'll just work on improving the appearance of the outer shell. Does spray paint come in Tektronix blue?
Edit 1-July-2017: Photobucket sucks. But the scope is still in service. -
Great work repairing this lovely scope. Just goes to show how reliable old components really are. Looks like this one is from the mid 70's or thereabout. Those big silicone coated non inductive resistors in the vertical amplifier always looked very strange to me.
I always find that cleaning the buttons and knobs is the most annoying task. -
Thanks. Those ceramic capacitors that look like wirewound resistors are strange to me. Of course, when this scope was made I was barely a teenager, whose favorite store was Radio Shack.
The most annoying task to me was cleaning all those switch contacts. I kept worrying that one wrong move and the game was over, if one of those little leafs got bent. -
Seriously nice job!
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Wow, it looks really good. I'm impressed. But what's the trick behind the smiley?
The scope doesn't seem to be in XY-mode at first sight... -
Wow, it looks really good. I'm impressed. But what's the trick behind the smiley?
This photo might give you a clue:
The scope doesn't seem to be in XY-mode at first sight...
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Wow, it looks really good. I'm impressed. But what's the trick behind the smiley?
The scope doesn't seem to be in XY-mode at first sight...
An even better clue: Set the B-sweep up to catch just the right parts of a square wave on CH 1 and a sine wave on CH 2, then display the A-sweep, with the B-sweep portion intensified. Turn the intensity way down so only the intensified portion is visible, and you have the "Happy Tek" version of the old "Happy Mac" self-test icon.
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What a little beauty , started my electronics life with the 465b as the main 'weapon of choice' so have a soft spot for it.
I also like the modded fluke 8050 in the background. (noted from the other thread, which I have kept a copy of, will be quite useful when my 8050 lcd packs it in!).
I'm sure you had just as big a smile as the 465!!.
John
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Good work! I would be hesitant to take a wire brush to a BNC connector, since you'll strip of the plating. This is especially bad for silver plated connectors, since silver oxide is conductive, so you're unlikely to see any improvement.
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Good work! I would be hesitant to take a wire brush to a BNC connector, since you'll strip of the plating. This is especially bad for silver plated connectors, since silver oxide is conductive, so you're unlikely to see any improvement.
Is there a better way, apart from just replacing the connector? I have a scope with pretty dark BNC connectors, I just sprayed them with contact cleaner and wiped away any loose crap. It works, but I'd be happier with cleaner connectors. -
Good work! I would be hesitant to take a wire brush to a BNC connector, since you'll strip of the plating. This is especially bad for silver plated connectors, since silver oxide is conductive, so you're unlikely to see any improvement.
That's a valid concern. Although a Dremel wire brush is not nearly as abrasive as one might think. The readout actuator rings were intermittent before cleaning, they work well now.Is there a better way, apart from just replacing the connector? I have a scope with pretty dark BNC connectors, I just sprayed them with contact cleaner and wiped away any loose crap. It works, but I'd be happier with cleaner connectors.
If it's really discolored, maybe one of those dry silverware polishing cloths might improve the appearance. Silver polish might work, but I'd be concerned about getting residue inside the connector. -
What a little beauty
Yep, I can understand the urge to be a scope collector. Must... resist... , started my electronics life with the 465b as the main 'weapon of choice' so have a soft spot for it.
I also like the modded fluke 8050 in the background. (noted from the other thread, which I have kept a copy of, will be quite useful when my 8050 lcd packs it in!).
I'm sure you had just as big a smile as the 465!!.
John
I have more detailed pix and information on the 8050A LED modification that I could post, if there's interest. -
Wow, beautiful restoration, a credit to you. I am the newbie with the poorly 475, as you are obviously intimate with these things may I ask you a question please? Driven off the spindle the Time / Division knob, inside the casing, is a microswitch, with a single round alloy ring with a peg sticking it of it. My microswitch moves little, if at all, whatever is done turning or pulling the Time / Division knob. I will get the meter on it later, and see if it actual changes state, I suspect not unless it's incredibly sensitively set. Can you briefly describe how the microswitch should be triggered, and what it does please? I have found other issues with mine that I will mention in the "Tek 475 is this likely to be a straightforward repair thread. That rebuild is lovely, I am very envious of your patience.
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I believe the resistance of silver oxide is quite low, so electrically cleaning is unlikely to yield much improvement. If you value appearance over function, I would probably also try something designed to clean silver, since it's less likely to remove the silver. Not sure if they leave some sort of non-conductive film you may have to remove.
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Wow, beautiful restoration, a credit to you. I am the newbie with the poorly 475, as you are obviously intimate with these things may I ask you a question please? Driven off the spindle the Time / Division knob, inside the casing, is a microswitch, with a single round alloy ring with a peg sticking it of it. My microswitch moves little, if at all, whatever is done turning or pulling the Time / Division knob. I will get the meter on it later, and see if it actual changes state, I suspect not unless it's incredibly sensitively set. Can you briefly describe how the microswitch should be triggered, and what it does please? I have found other issues with mine that I will mention in the "Tek 475 is this likely to be a straightforward repair thread. That rebuild is lovely, I am very envious of your patience.
You may ask any question you like, however you must know this is the first Tektronix brand scope I've ever taken apart or repaired. But there are plenty of other knowledgeable folks here as well.
I examined the timebase switch on my 465 and I can't find a microswitch anywhere. This must be a difference between the 475 and 465. I took a quick look at a downloaded 475 service manual and I cannot find a microswitch there either. Is it by chance between the cam switch assembly and the vernier pot on the back end of the shaft?
Maybe someone owns, or has worked on, a 475 that can comment. -
Thanks for replying, I have taken a photo of the switch. I have also had the knob off and there are two issues. In the photo, sticking through the alloy disc, you can see a headed pin. One of the pins on the back of the Time / Division switch depresses this floating pin when the knob is fully in. This floating pin pushes a rimmed white plastic bobbin, which in turn operates the arm of the microswitch itself. The pin was seized in the alloy bobbin. As well as this the copper plated spring clip which is on the same side of the flat face of the white plastic bobbin to the microswitch lever arm, but at 180 degrees around the periphery to it, is weak. I have freed the pin as well as I can without taking the board out, but it still sticks a little. I think the copper plated spring steel tab that assist retraction of the plastic bobbin with the knob pulled needs re tensioning. It seems it only controls the delay time function, so I doubt it's the crux of my problems, but it's another issue.
http://www.gatesgarth.com/TEK/microswitch.jpg
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Definitely not in my 465. If it has anything to do with pulling and then turning the sweep speed knob, then it is related to the B-sweep, which is not worth worrying about right now. Just keep the white line on the sweep knob lined up with the black marks on the skirt, for now.
We should probably keep this discussion in your 475 thread.
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I am very impressed about the restoration. Looks like new!
I have 2 Teks : 465 and 465B. The 465B bought at early 80's, cost a fortune, but it worked fine 30 years!
Recently I had a major problem (465B), on the Horizontal Amp. I've downloaded tons of service manuals, looking for the horizontal amp. schematic - no way to find it. I found by chance that a capacitor was faulty - C4375 - and almost "killed" a resistor near it R4376, but I could not find the schematic anywhere.
Maybe, by chance someone have the FULL service manual? Including ASSY 10 (Horizontal amplifier) circuit?
I'll be very thankful for help.
Thanks in advance,
Tedy
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Thanks. I recently installed new shelves over my bench and the 465 now occupies a prominent place there. Even though I have a better scope, I seem to enjoy using the 465 most. The controls produce a satisfying CLUNK! instead of softkey menus or the faint click of relays.
If you can't find a decent copy of the 465B service manual for free, I highly recommend Artek Media. I have two of their PDF manuals, and they're well worth the very low cost. High resolution and hyperlinked. When you zoom in on the diagrams you can actually read the fine print. If you have a concern about whether a particular diagram is included, an email to Dave at Artek will probably get an answer. He is active on the Yahoo TekScopes group. -
Thank you very much ModemHead!!!
I've paid and d/led the manuals from Artek Media, and indeed, their manuals look complete.
I don't need them right now, as meantime I've fixed the problem, however sooner or latter, I am sure I'll need them.
Thank you again for assistance and good will,
Tedy -
Good job, brings back fond memories
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Awesome work. Thanks for sharing!
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The service manual has an extensive procedure for performance checks and calibration, so the next big thing is to go through that. For now though, I think I'll just work on improving the appearance of the outer shell. Does spray paint come in Tektronix blue?
Sorry to be late in answering this question. If you still need authentic Tek blue paint, check with Stan Griffiths. He sells some spray paint made by the same company that does it for Tek at his web store: http://www.reprise.com/ash/clients2/Parts_Shop/misc.html