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#75 Reply
Posted by
Tejgla
on 18 Jan, 2018 10:35
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Hello
I bought a mean well hlg-320h-48a supply and two power supplys to make 230ac to 12vdc (1,2A) and 5vdc (1A). From the amplifiler pcb I got 3.3v and soldered to +3,3v keep alive pin. Everything was fine about 20-25 minutes and after that the system shut down. I turned on again and I get an input 5 and aux error. I did a factory reset but 5 minutes later the system shut down again and I was unable to turn it on again. Hold the "effect" input 1 (6x) and center(3x) blinking.
Somebody can help me?
Thank you.
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#76 Reply
Posted by
ciine
on 04 Mar, 2018 16:02
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Voltages of 12, 5, and 3.3 v must be stabilized.
If they are made by the same source and have no stabilization when they increase the volume they fluctuate and is not correct
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#77 Reply
Posted by
ruminaire
on 19 Mar, 2018 14:46
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hello,
my rear channel output from subwoofer is having problem, the rear left strangely output -9.x volt, while rear right about +12v.
the front and center channel working normally and giving about +13v.
i open the subwoofer checking the power supply is good, 3.3v, 5v, 12v, 46v all okay when I measure them without connected to controller pcb board. as soon I connected psu to controller, all voltage reading is all wrong, I think I got short circuit somewhere.
i'm looking for sign of burn in component in controller pcb and not found anything strange, no burnt smell too.
then I found rear left positive output (red) is somehow short to ground, the negative output (black) is looking okay. what do you think is wrong here? rear right show no sign of shorting but it's not giving output sound too.
subwoofer and 3 channel front and center is still working by the way, it just rear channel is having problem. if this help, i got Logitech z906 from my friend and there was no center satellite. the problem start after 2 hour or so I put non Logitech z906 center and rear satellites for testing. it was fenda f6000 satellites. I don't know if that causing the amp fry or something because I use non Logitech satellites? is it possible?
the reason I use non Logitech rear speakers was for testing only as it's already in mounting, and I still didn't have mounting for Logitech one. that and for center speaker I couldn't help as this system I got come without it from my friend. and now I'm in regrets.
please help me, I got little knowledge for troubleshooting the circuit. also sorry for my English, I hope I make my question clear.
thanks.
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#78 Reply
Posted by
a3762341
on 24 Mar, 2018 17:38
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Hello
I bought a mean well hlg-320h-48a supply and two power supplys to make 230ac to 12vdc (1,2A) and 5vdc (1A). From the amplifiler pcb I got 3.3v and soldered to +3,3v keep alive pin. Everything was fine about 20-25 minutes and after that the system shut down. I turned on again and I get an input 5 and aux error. I did a factory reset but 5 minutes later the system shut down again and I was unable to turn it on again. Hold the "effect" input 1 (6x) and center(3x) blinking.
Somebody can help me?
Thank you.
Hey,you can use mean well's (48V 350W) supply for HV & GND on the main amp board. This is important. I just try this,and getting volume up for a long time without any problem.
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#79 Reply
Posted by
ciine
on 09 May, 2018 16:24
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hello,
my rear channel output from subwoofer is having problem, the rear left strangely output -9.x volt, while rear right about +12v.
the front and center channel working normally and giving about +13v.
i open the subwoofer checking the power supply is good, 3.3v, 5v, 12v, 46v all okay when I measure them without connected to controller pcb board. as soon I connected psu to controller, all voltage reading is all wrong, I think I got short circuit somewhere.
i'm looking for sign of burn in component in controller pcb and not found anything strange, no burnt smell too.
then I found rear left positive output (red) is somehow short to ground, the negative output (black) is looking okay. what do you think is wrong here? rear right show no sign of shorting but it's not giving output sound too.
subwoofer and 3 channel front and center is still working by the way, it just rear channel is having problem. if this help, i got Logitech z906 from my friend and there was no center satellite. the problem start after 2 hour or so I put non Logitech z906 center and rear satellites for testing. it was fenda f6000 satellites. I don't know if that causing the amp fry or something because I use non Logitech satellites? is it possible?
the reason I use non Logitech rear speakers was for testing only as it's already in mounting, and I still didn't have mounting for Logitech one. that and for center speaker I couldn't help as this system I got come without it from my friend. and now I'm in regrets.
please help me, I got little knowledge for troubleshooting the circuit. also sorry for my English, I hope I make my question clear.
thanks.
Check the contenders in the rejection filter, on the branch that has shortness at the table, surely one in short
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#80 Reply
Posted by
scrhall
on 15 Nov, 2018 19:57
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Hi, I just replaced my damaged power supply with a 48v 7A, with 3 step down to reach the 12v, 5v and 3.3v, everything works perfectly, but the power supply that I put consumes in standby approximately 15w and has a fan always running. The only thing I would like now, would be to turn on the system as soon as power is supplied to the power supply, that way I could control the power on and off from the socket.
Do you know somewhere on the motherboard where you can control the on and off?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bjyfycd1qyZmvKYXAhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/PWMrZRtTuWXksmNEA
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#81 Reply
Posted by
ciine
on 18 Jan, 2019 18:05
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Yes, at the moment the power play , the pw-on are 3, 3v
You use this 3,3v to command the fan ,or uses a thermistor to command the fan to engage at 50 degrees up
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does the 30-50v hv+ connection require a regulator or just smoothed/filtered dc?
another poster built a linear psu by rewinding a secondary on a transformer sadly he didn't provide much info on how he built it
I have yet to find any info on the hv side some say 35v 10 amp others 48v 70v I would imagine there would be some kind of regulation on this portion
a switching psu is likely easier to buy but a linear psu is simpler to build from spare parts just to see if the amp is functional...
the 12v,5v regulators could likely be found in an old computer psu along with caps and other parts..
there is a possibility with any psu to have "noise" its a debatable topic as fords vs chevy debate will forever be debated...
you can also find dvd player psu produce 12v,5v via a linear psu
I did try to power the 5v and 12v from a separate psu but as ciine mentioned they have to be stable and this option dont work unless you could power both on at the same time and maintain the voltage
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#83 Reply
Posted by
demail2006
on 03 Jan, 2020 18:21
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My logitech z906 does not provide any sound from speakers, However input and output to headphones are working fine. I assume all other functions will also work fine.
I checked power supply and voltages. I get all voltage ok i.e. 2x 46 volts and 12 volt and 5 volt is dropping to 4.5 to 4 or below volts. I also have 3.3 volt standby voltage.
I even tried external 5v supply provided by 1 amp mobile charger, not working.
When I check voltage on speakers voltages are all over the place when tested for + and - it shows -7.5 volts some time on all speakers not connected and 0.0 on connected one and sometimes all shows +22, 5, 10 volts it's going all over the place
.
I checked main pcb 100v capacitors and they got 46v on them.
please help in fixing issues where should I start checking for faults.
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#84 Reply
Posted by
tunk
on 03 Jan, 2020 18:44
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I don't know what's the problem is, but I think you should start with setting your DMM to Vac.
And maybe feed it with e.g. a 1kHz sine signal.
Edit: if the headphone socket has a (logical) switch, check it.
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#85 Reply
Posted by
demail2006
on 03 Jan, 2020 21:32
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#86 Reply
Posted by
tunk
on 03 Jan, 2020 22:47
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First, I don't really have a clue about this.
Do a web search for a 1kHz sine mp3-file and use that as input (from your phone?).
When you insert the headphone are the speakers muted? If so, there's some kind
of switch which does this, and if this is defect ...
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#87 Reply
Posted by
BISZAK
on 27 Jan, 2021 20:13
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Hi guys!
Can someone help me about some resistors, because my power supply burnt quite badly, and can't find any of these values
TP29;TP32;TP33;TP35;TP5?;TP97;TP48
these are near the big metal heating panel
Thank you!
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#88 Reply
Posted by
Dinesh6252
on 14 Apr, 2021 04:47
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Hello, just a quick question if someone can tell if i can supply 54V on HV+ line since, I have a 54+ that I want to use.
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#89 Reply
Posted by
gue
on 17 Jul, 2021 18:40
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Hello, I am new on this board and looked through this thread before but could not quit find my answer, even if someone already mentioned TP32.
I know how to solder but did next to nothing with electronics for quit some time.
I bought the z906 in 2011 and it went 'dead' today. After a very brief sound the lights went out and it smelled burnt. After stumbling across a few YouTube videos I opened the back of the subwoofer and compared to other damaged z906's mine looks 'not too bad' (maybe). Google brought me to this board and I read through this thread. I think the TP32 is broken as I measure "1" i.e., infinity, for resistance (it is a resistor right?), the TP29 has "a" measurement (I have a very cheap multimeter) so seems to be functional. I attached a picture of the backside where the burn marks a visible, other than that I could not (visually) find damaged parts. Be grateful for any tips/hints. Could it be just the TP32? If so, can someone post the specs on it.
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tp are test points, not components.
See also the THT component in that area (opposite side)
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#91 Reply
Posted by
gue
on 18 Jul, 2021 14:52
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Ah, ok, TP stands for test point, thanks. On the other side is the component (picture) which looks a bit dark (burnt). I could not yet find other burnt components.
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there are many nerds here ready to help you (not me
); however, you must provide more data, such as the screen printing of the burned component; do some measurement on the power board voltages, voltage arrives at the primary, for example, etc: you will see that someone will help you
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Just a quick note about this resistor failure, it means one of the FETs on the heatsink have partially shorted. The originals are15N60C3 600 volt 15 amps. I think this goes along with the extra stress caused by some of the caps going bad on the output, 2 x 47uf 16 volts C39 C40 and 1 x 470uf 16volt C66, or it could be just one of those things that goes along with an input surge. You should proably also plan on replacing the MOV SL12 0006, I think its 10006 however the actual part has a missing piece, so the 1 is missing on mine. Also the 2 5R6 resistors may also be bad, i replaced them with 3 2 5R at 5W and 1 1R at 5 watts. Hope this helps others. Have a great day everyone, maybe hold the door open for someone if you can. If you can't play a sport, be one.
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#94 Reply
Posted by
gue
on 27 Oct, 2021 08:40
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Thanks for the reply. I gave it to a local repair shop. He managed to repair the power supply part but realized also the amp is damaged. At this point I chose to buy another sound system.
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#95 Reply
Posted by
maxpayne
on 04 Nov, 2021 15:00
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My Z906 power board died today. The speaker is not turning on anymore. I checked the power connector to the amp board and found, +46V, +12V and +5V, all are okay. However after disassembling the power board, I found the following components defective -
R79, R80, D42, D19 and U6(body marking 8AA). Could you help me to identify those components ? their body is damaged and I was unable to find the value.
Also one secondary transformer winding(marked in the picture) seems damaged as well. Can you tell my for which purpose the winding is used ? like for standby voltage supply ?
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#96 Reply
Posted by
maj0r1337
on 26 Dec, 2021 22:04
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hi guys, i also have trouble with my z906 but its not the power supply.
my speakers work fine and the controller also but my subwoofer is dead... not the speaker itself, he clicks when i power on the system. i think its the amp wich is defective. do you know where i should seharch on the board for that defective part? i cant find any damage to any components
best regards
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#97 Reply
Posted by
maxpayne
on 27 Dec, 2021 04:25
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My Z906 power board died today. The speaker is not turning on anymore. I checked the power connector to the amp board and found, +46V, +12V and +5V, all are okay. However after disassembling the power board, I found the following components defective -
R79, R80, D42, D19 and U6(body marking 8AA). Could you help me to identify those components ? their body is damaged and I was unable to find the value.
Also one secondary transformer winding(marked in the picture) seems damaged as well. Can you tell my for which purpose the winding is used ? like for standby voltage supply ?
Eventually I looked more into the board. found one of the transformer winding damaged. Also one zener diode, 2 schottkey diodes and one MOSFET (underneath the board, for switching the +45V line). The transformer winding was for generating the 3.3V keep alive voltage. As it was hard to repair a transformer, I just disregard the winding and generated the keep alive voltage from the +5V using the on board SOT 3.3V regulator.
The speaker is now back in life and running successfully from last couple of weeks..
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#98 Reply
Posted by
KiKiHUN
on 02 Jan, 2022 18:24
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#99 Reply
Posted by
Brzuszek
on 07 Jan, 2022 12:48
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Hello, to start the amplifier, it needs 3.3v, 5v, 12v and 40v or 46v. How many watts must be
I want to use a power supply from china.
If there is anyone knows the values of the elements.
R8 R12 R95 R119 (The resistors are next to the C1 condenser)
C7 R24 Q16 (U1 system parts)