If it was originally 3.3V it should be fine where it is now. You could trace the enable pin. It probably goes to one of the fets on the heatsinks. Then you could check how the output of the fet changes depending on the 3.3V applied. Also if you can, read the identification off of the fet.
With the fet identified and it's datasheet as well as the configuration arround the fet we should be able to figure out exactly what it needs to stay permanently on.
Another thing you could try before all of this is to manually connect and disconnect the BKL_ADJ pin to simulate slow PWM. Maybe it wants that present.
There is glue over the "fets" except one:
URF1020C
But, that probably is not the right one.
"Faking" the PWM works, but I would have to build some kind of simple "blinking" circuit. I posted a picture of one a few posts ago. I don't know if it will work though.
THANK YOU!
Consider to LED-retrofit it. There are "monitor backlight repair / LED retrofit kits" available. Other option would be DIY-install common LED strips. Your "DIY-mileage" may vary depending on monitor. Then you can power LED backlight using widely available 12V "black brick" power supply.
Consider to LED-retrofit it. There are "monitor backlight repair / LED retrofit kits" available. Other option would be DIY-install common LED strips. Your "DIY-mileage" may vary depending on monitor. Then you can power LED backlight using widely available 12V "black brick" power supply.
At that point, all he needs is some ground glass and a picture frame and he doesn't need the monitor at all (which might not be that bad of an idea when it comes to reliability tbh).
I can't believe this -- I mean it is no one's fault here, of course, I just can't believe turning this back light on is so annoyingly complicated.
Thought this was going to take five minutes.
I think I'll just start playing with the wires; if I fry it, it doesn't matter because if it isn't going to work, it goes to the e-waste recycle bin and I will build one with milk glass and LEDs (all of which I have already for something else, including a PSU).
Thank You Guys!
At that point, all he needs is some ground glass and a picture frame and he doesn't need the monitor at all (which might not be that bad of an idea when it comes to reliability tbh).
Nah. Backlight of LCD monitors and TV's have much more even illumination which is key requirement here.