Update on this drawn out repair.
New T-Conn board purchased, fitted but still no picture. Coloured bars have disappeared and the screen is being back-lit and can be seen to adjusting on the controls.
New video cable sourced a DVI-D one as it seems that the monitor needs this type of lead to function by all accounts, fitted cable, no change from above.
Video card double checked and it is more then capable of driving the monitor, so has anyone else got any ideas what next or is just time to call enough and dump the monitor?
As I said closer to the end, interface converter board likely is faulty. As it is what originally caused color strips and what you reflowed (I initially thought you reflowed T-CON). I also asked many times about how this display is recognized by PC but you wrote a ton of nonsense instead of checking that once.
The colour strips was after I re-flowed the interface board. That board has not be touched since. I was advised that the T-Conn board was the culprit which has been swapped out . The colour strips are no longer with either one of the T-Conns connected.
Maybe I'm a bit thick but I can't see just how I'm going to be able to see how the PC "recognises" the monitor as it surely requires a display to be working for me to see what the graphics card is detecting unless I'm mistaken?
Maybe I'm a bit thick but I can't see just how I'm going to be able to see how the PC "recognises" the monitor as it surely requires a display to be working for me to see what the graphics card is detecting unless I'm mistaken?
Yes you are, and I already said this too
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Don'y you realize that GPU is not talking with LCD panel? Over DVI interface all it does is reading data from EEPROM (or IC that emulates EEPROM) connected to two I2C interface lines (DDC) in DVI cable.
These are the 2 screen prints that I can get from my PC with the 22" LG monitor connected, one if the Nividia control panel, the other is the Win10 screen for screen resolution.
What I'm saying is that the PC detects which is monitor is connected, the first screen print is the Windows 10 screen info and the second is how the Nvidia control panel detects the monitor type and displays the possible options.
In order for me to interrogate these options/settings I first need to have a window into the PC, and that window is going to be the monitor? With Crossover monitor connected, I cannot get to see just what is being detected because there is no on screen display at all for to take a print screen off and process
Don't you have second video output to connect 2 monitors? As of screenshot, it was obviously resized in the process and actual resolution is unreadable.
Maybe I'm a bit thick but I can't see just how I'm going to be able to see how the PC "recognises" the monitor as it surely requires a display to be working for me to see what the graphics card is detecting unless I'm mistaken?
I was assuming you'll attach as additional monitor, not connect it instead of what is currently used.
Yes, I do have the option for 2 monitors, but my monitors are both DVI interfaces and the graphics card only has 1 DVI interface, Display ports and 2 HDMI ports so therefore as I have already said, with the Crossover connected, I cannot see anything on the screen, only with the LG connected can I see these print screens.
If one of the monitors had an HDMI interface I connect them both and then I might be able to see the info, as I have HDMI leads for my home cinema setup. I do not have any Display port leads and as menbtioned, neither monitor sport anything other then a DVI interface so from that angle I'm currently screwed.
Here the print screens but this I have not reduced the size at all and I also include prints of the graphics card specs and the outputs.
Don't you have HDMI-DVI adapter? As of screenshots, it can certainly be taken blind with crossover monitor attached. Also you could use teamwiever to control computer remotely from say laptop. And there is no use of what is displayed for another monitor.
No, I don't have HDMI to DVI adaptor, but I can certainly try and get hold of one, give me a few days and I'll see what I can come up with.
Adaptor ordered, should be with me Tuesday hopefully
Update time, some slight progress now that the HDMI to DVI-D adaptor has arrived.
I have the Crossover monitor set up the DVI-D to DVI-D interface and the LG on the HDMI to DVI-D one, on the following print screens the LG is monitor 1 and Crossover is monitor 2 (on the windows screen resolution setting screen, on the Nvidia print screen the Crossover is recognised by its model number and the LG is shown as LG. On both screen prints the monitors native resolutions are being recognised correctly as well and the Crossover indicator light remains blue and the screen is lit by the back light but no screen image of any sort.
If I connect the Crossover as screen 1 and LG, screen 2, the Crossover indicator lights lights up the normal blue colour when it receives a signal but after a few seconds lights up red and the screen switches off.
So then, would I be correct in thinking then that the interface board board is functioning correctly and the fault still lays within the T-Conn or the panel itself?
EDITAfter the Crossover has been switched on for about 30 mins (while I was trying a few things out), the power brick got extremely hot as did the actual monitor itself. I have never known a monitor to get so hot, you could feel the hot radiating from the panel so that is not a good sign.
So then, would I be correct in thinking then that the interface board board is functioning correctly and the fault still lays within the T-Conn or the panel itself?
No, it only means that EEPROM is read properly and therefore correct signal is outputted. If you connect it to HDMI adapter, it will act as single link DVI, therefore PC cannot output right resolution. I think that interface board is at least partially alive as it reacts to video signal.
You said that you reflowed IC, I would certainly check soldering quality and if no legs are shorted. Also there is IC under heatsink failure of which or around it would prevent displaying image but won't prevent monitor detecting signal.
It is getting very hot and so is the power brick, so I've switched it off for tonight but tomorrow I'll see if I get the time to crack the monitor open and double check the solder joints. The IC that had what I took to be tin whiskers is the large on just above the DVI socket.
The only IC that has a heat sync on is the one on the T-Conn board which has a thermal pad on it to dissipate heat into the metal cover as shown in the rear view photo attached.
The only IC that has a heat sync on is the one on the T-Conn board which has a thermal pad on it to dissipate heat into the metal cover as shown in the rear view photo attached.
May I ask you what is on top of U7 then? Also tell yow you done so called "reflow"? Just blown with hot air without flux? Apply some liquid or gel flux and do the job properly with soldering iron.
The only IC that has a heat sync on is the one on the T-Conn board which has a thermal pad on it to dissipate heat into the metal cover as shown in the rear view photo attached.
May I ask you what is on top of U7 then?
Oops, sorry, my mistake, that one I didn't use the hot air on as the solder joints looked OK under the microscope, it was only the large one that I heated up with a small nozzle played onto the legs until I could see the tin whiskers disappear via the microscope which did not need much in the way of heat.
Just resolder the pins properly.
Will do, any idea why the thing is getting so hot?
Will do, any idea why the thing is getting so hot?
When I had similar monitor (likely exactly the same LCD panel) IIRC it consumed around 150W at max brightness. So it's not that strange it gets hot.
Just checked it and at minimum it draws 57W and full brightness it draws 133W and so maybe it takes even more once its producing a image. I did have set at full brightness in order to observe the screen for any changes so that would account for the heat. If we can get it to work, I might have look for an alternative power brick that runs a lot cooler as it almost burns you when touching it and that amount of heat is not any good long term on components, especially the smoothing cap sitting as it does right by the heatsink. I think that I read it somewhere that the power supplies are prone to failure and thats maybe why?
Power brick at such power will never be cool or just warm. It's a lot of heat dissipation within closed plastic box. It's basically as much as quiet powerful desktop computer (without dedicated GPU) consumes at idle/max load. And it has passive cooling only, unlike PC.
I could power it up from a bench power supply that has significantly better heat dissipation with or with out cooling fans as the heatsinks are far bigger and have better airflow over them but thats a decision for later if it can be made to work, I'll be able to see just how hot it runs once I have the display settings right. Just measured the wattage of my LG 22" monitor and its 37W at full power and on its normal setting it draws only 28W so I estimate that the Crossover would be roundabout 80W which should be quite a bit cooler.
I could power it up from a bench power supply that has significantly better heat dissipation
And much worse efficiency. Not to say you are risking frying the monitor by accidentally setting wrong voltage. It's just plain stupid to replace original psu for far-fetched reason.
Checked the board over for failed joints, tin whiskers etc, nothing found. I double checked the connections to the large chip with a soldering iron, results..nothing is changed.
Done a google search to see if it was possible to locate a replacement board for it but it seems that these monitors has a history of regular failures with loads of people looking for replacement DigitalWave DW270QDP boards in a quite a few countries across the world. I've had a search for one as well this afternoon without any luck.
