Just received mine yesterday (KSger 2.1 STM32 with the 9501 handle, powered by 19V DC) but did buy some genuine Hakko tips.. Have tested the 1.6mm chisel on large groundplanes (Icom 7000 transceiver - driver replacement).
I do have to say, excellent thermal recovery. Boost function is very handy. The handle has the cold junction NTC and the reed switch. Works great when coming out of stand-by/sleep.
The addition of the RTC is nice as well. Comes with a lot of tip profiles. I don't think there's a better deal for the money...
I can certainly understand the interest in this station in the UK and EU (other places too) given the prices of decent stations there, but they lack a decent stand.
Looking around, the Hakko 633-1 would be worth a look IMHO (quite reasonably priced, and it comes with a 599B brass wool cleaner). Weighs 380g, so definitely heavier than the scrap bit of disposable aluminum pie plate that comes with the T12 stations.
Potential sources:
Correct, been on the lookout as well.. question is: will the 9501 fit.. Because it's balance point is different, also a much smaller "flange" where you keep your fingers..
edit: the FH200-01 should fit that one, except it's 60$... more than the station
Correct, been on the lookout as well.. question is: will the 9501 fit.. Because it's balance point is different, also a much smaller "flange" where you keep your fingers..
edit: the FH200-01 should fit that one, except it's 60$... more than the station
The 633 is made for the self-enclosed desolder pumps (FR-300, FR-301 types).
In the case of the 9501 (or other irons I've seen available), I can't see how it wouldn't work for a T12 station iron.
Well, if the holder isn't really made for the dimension of that handle - it causes the tip to constantly touch the metal of the stand. (and thus constant unnecessary heating/temperature compensation..)
.. and it looks like sh*t if it's dangling around..
Well, if the holder isn't really made for the dimension of that handle - it causes the tip to constantly touch the metal of the stand. (and thus constant unnecessary heating/temperature compensation..)
I suspect it would touch the metal portion. And this would be the case with a lot of other stands too, such as the wire spring looking types (i.e. most common type for generic/non-iron specific stands IME).
You'd need one that's open on the top, such as the
Weller WDH-10 ($50.52 + shipping and VAT). Even with these however, the hole is larger than the diameter of the business end of the iron for easy insertion (makes it a bit sloppy, but not so much the iron falls out). It just floats in air rather than making contact with metal. The downside of course, is it's more expensive.
As per unnecessary heating, quite possible. I don't know if the lack of motion would affect the heating cycle or not with that iron if it's making contact with a heat sink (or stand in this case).
(makes it a bit sloppy, but not so much the iron falls out). It just floats in air rather than making contact with metal. The downside of course, is it's more expensive.
It looks like there's a slot where the wire goes. Maybe it's adjustable, or at least removeable and replaceable with a better fitting widget.
FWIW, it is really easy to make a T12 iron holder that doesn't wiggle, at all. The diameter of the handpiece is exactly 3/4".
3/4" forstner bit, 5/8" bit, a piece of hardwood board standard 3/4" thick, a piece of thin sheet metal. Drill the 3/4" hole a 1/2" deep. Drill out the rest of the way with the 5/8" bit. Chamfer the opening and sand/ream out the 3/4" hole until it's snug as you want. Cut a V notch in the sheet metal and screw it to the back. Adjust it so that the iron is perfectly perpendicular and straight, handle tucked in the 3/4" hole, and the sheet metal preventing the iron from drooping. Same idea as the wire on the expensive holder, but you can remove all wiggle up/down and sidewards.
(makes it a bit sloppy, but not so much the iron falls out). It just floats in air rather than making contact with metal. The downside of course, is it's more expensive.
It looks like there's a slot where the wire goes. Maybe it's adjustable, or at least removable and replaceable with a better fitting widget.
There is a slot. The wire makes a U shape (squared at the corners), which fits into said slot and is inserted all the way down. I don't see any advantage of inverting it, or only partially inserted (not bottomed out).
That said, it would be possible to drill out the plastic to 1/2" if you need it to be larger. But as we're talking about T12/T15 tip cartridges, the existing size would work very well. I say this as they're similar in diameter to the WMP I use, which has never fallen out on me.
For the record, I own a WDH-10, WDH-20, and WDH-20T. The differences between the basic 10 & 20 models is the tip holders; everything else is identical. The T variant is the switched version to get full setback features.
FWIW, it is really easy to make a T12 iron holder that doesn't wiggle, at all. The diameter of the handpiece is exactly 3/4".
3/4" forstner bit, 5/8" bit, a piece of hardwood board standard 3/4" thick, a piece of thin sheet metal. Drill the 3/4" hole a 1/2" deep. Drill out the rest of the way with the 5/8" bit. Chamfer the opening and sand/ream out the 3/4" hole until it's snug as you want. Cut a V notch in the sheet metal and screw it to the back. Adjust it so that the iron is perfectly perpendicular and straight, handle tucked in the 3/4" hole, and the sheet metal preventing the iron from drooping. Same idea as the wire on the expensive holder, but you can remove all wiggle up/down and sidewards.
Certainly possible to DIY something.
I would suggest making the base weighted so it's less likely to fall over, as well as provision for either a sponge or brass wool (IIRC, the 599B is 2" in diameter).
Missed the whole 9501 thing.
Carry on.
Well, apparently they make holders as well those chinese guys
Winner
Well, apparently they make holders as well those chinese guys
Winner
For $12.99, I say give it a go, and add a genuine
599B (6EUR + VAT & shipping).
Just have to wait and see if it's made out of metal
(which I think it is).
btw, does anyone know, why the chinese have hard time telling the difference between welding and soldering?
If you google translate soldering -> 焊接, then if you translate that back to english it says "welding".
So it seems like the same word might be used interchangeably in chinese.
btw, does anyone know, why the chinese have hard time telling the difference between welding and soldering?
If you google translate soldering -> 焊接, then if you translate that back to english it says "welding".
So it seems like the same word might be used interchangeably in chinese.
Hence I'm saying all the time to just use english for any technical documents. Some words doesnt even exist in many languages, and there are very few which would have a proper, complete vocabulary for technical terms.
Well, apparently they make holders as well those chinese guys
Winner
Those are fucking shit. Don’t even go there. Mine went straight in the bin and claimed. Didn’t work, was made out of chinesium and half the paint was missing.
Actually I’m going to stop buying shit off aliexpress now. Lots of disappointments recently.
If you're lucky, the micro pencil is also a standard SAE tool bit diameter. If you don't want to spend twice the cost of the station, you can spend a little elbow grease.
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No droop!
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No sideways wiggle!
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The steel plate gets a bit warm, but no fires, either!
And it's infinitely adjustable for your preferred presentation angle.
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Coiled spring holders is gahbage.
This is a little fancier than what I described, earlier. But it's overkill. It works just fine the way I described, before.
Never thought I'd see a mummified soldering iron.
^I don't like the dragonfly shape of the 2028. I often need to reach out a bit farther, for population of SMD boards, and the abrupt change to super skinny diameter just doesn't work for me. I also don't like the little bit of wiggle between the two halves (at least on the clones; dunno if the genuine is better fit) or the loosey spinny of the tips. So my handpiece doesn't come apart, anymore.
I tapered the yellow foamy part with a sharp knife. I used the self-sealing silicone electrical tape, and it is surprisingly perfect in function. It doesn't collect any lint like I was afraid it might, and it gives a nice grip that isn't sticky and doesn't ooze residue around the edges of the tape. Just don't go too tight, or you can damage the tips when trying to change them. I destroyed one tip trying for too much tension; ripped one of the contact rings right off!
the ali-express link is incomplete.
Not sure I'd want a metal one. The plastic one gets hot enough as it is.