Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!
Comments, anyone?
Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!
Comments, anyone?
sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.
Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!
Comments, anyone?
sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.
Throw away your pickup truck, and buy a Peterbilt Diesel Rig. Throw away your ford, and buy a Maserati. Move out of you $100,000 home, and into a $10,000,000 mansion. Throw out you Popov Vodka, and buy Smirnoff ... stop just soldering, AND BE TRENDY!
Point being, a man with a full woodworking shop can make a birdhouse. And, a true craftsman, with some wood, and a pocket knife can make a birdhouse ... and a true DIY'er, with some potatoes and a homemade still can make his own Vodka, and instead of 100 proof Vodka, you can have near 200 proof Vodka (200 proof = 100% ETHYL ALCOHOL.)
Hakko 936 clone-case:
Now, just add 24v ~3A transformer, A1321 handle, and power cord!
Hakko 936 clone-case:
Now, just add 24v ~3A transformer, A1321 handle, and power cord!
Or just spend $10.22 (US warehouse and wait for discount to appear) and buy a Yihua 936 clone from HobbyKing.
... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.
... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.
The Hakko FX-888D goes on special for $69 a few times a year in the US, so making a 936 clone for $40-50 after all parts are considered (in the US) makes less sense than for other parts of the world.
If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value, the Chinese clone of the HAKKO FX-951 controller (digitally controlled) with fake FM-2027 FM-2028 handle using genuine Hakko T12 T15 series tips gets you a better iron and a similar price if you hunt around.
If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value...
And, unless I am mistaken, most would have a 24V 50VA (or greater VA) transformer in their junkbox, or be able to scavenge one from the electonics in a dumpster, along with power cord, (or, desperately degrade themselves, and just "niggle" them, somewhere) so:
If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value...
Niggle: to spend too much time and effort on inconsequential details.And, unless I am mistaken, most would have a 24V 50VA (or greater VA) transformer in their junkbox, or be able to scavenge one from the electonics in a dumpster, along with power cord, (or, desperately degrade themselves, and just "niggle" them, somewhere) so:
For people without a soldering station I doubt it, also it needs to fit that case. You suggested that price yourself I just added a little shipping, fuse and holder, switch, wiring, power cable etc (about $10 worth which is realistic).
All I'm saying is you're close to buying the actual FX-888D with an included $5 genuine tip and warranty in the US. For the money you suggest you might as well build a better clone than the 936.
I understand the argument about building from parts, but if you had the parts it would only cost around $13 for a Chinese fake FM-2027/FM-2028 handle with 2 included T12/T15 tips and you could build the HAKKO FX-951 controller from salvaged parts.
The other point I'll make (and you may have not been around for this) is that the genuine Hakko 936s were on run out for $50 in the states when they brought out the Hakko FX-888 model. There was a similar deal for the Hakko FX-888 when it was superseded by the FX-888D. Geuine Hakko 936s still sell for a similar amount used on Ebay.
If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.
But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.
If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.
But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.
Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!
Comments, anyone?
sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.
Throw away your pickup truck, and buy a Peterbilt Diesel Rig. Throw away your ford, and buy a Maserati. Move out of you $100,000 home, and into a $10,000,000 mansion. Throw out you Popov Vodka, and buy Smirnoff ... stop just soldering, AND BE TRENDY!
Point being, a man with a full woodworking shop can make a birdhouse. And, a true craftsman, with some wood, and a pocket knife can make a birdhouse ... and a true DIY'er, with some potatoes and a homemade still can make his own Vodka, and instead of 100 proof Vodka, you can have near 200 proof Vodka (200 proof = 100% ETHYL ALCOHOL.)
you lost me, all I got from this is you need a rehab
If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.
But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.
Funny, I have never "heard" the parts I have soldered, or the circuit boards, complain. Perhaps you are "hearing things" others don't?
Indeed, what is the difference between the 50VA (watts) supplied to the heater by "cheap chinese junk", and the 50VA supplied to the heater by "THE GREAT HAKKO GOD?"
... I have seen NONE!
If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.
But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.
Funny, I have never "heard" the parts I have soldered, or the circuit boards, complain. Perhaps you are "hearing things" others don't?
Indeed, what is the difference between the 50VA (watts) supplied to the heater by "cheap chinese junk", and the 50VA supplied to the heater by "THE GREAT HAKKO GOD?"
... I have seen NONE!When they'll start to complain, it will be too late for you, it seems.
Finding those who can tell the difference between a board soldered with "cheap chinese junk" (Hakko 936 clone), and a board soldered with a unit "MADE BY THE GREAT HAKKO GOD!", might be more difficult then you are imagining!
Finding those who can tell the difference between a board soldered with "cheap chinese junk" (Hakko 936 clone), and a board soldered with a unit "MADE BY THE GREAT HAKKO GOD!", might be more difficult then you are imagining!I can make high quality job with crap soldering iron. I can do a bit better with good soldering station but it's much easier to do. Also when you need to solder with a lead free solder some multilayer boards with high thermal mass, you'll notice that it can become very difficult unless you have a very good solder station.
BTW, I don't think that HAKKO is GOD (someone really needs rehab and drinking less vodka), especially 888(D), and older 936 model, I actually think it's not better than average at best.
... and you are quite correct, and leave me to now ponder on that difference -- and just how much of that difference is imagined? ... and especially if I ever found out that both razors used the same blade! ... but, 50 Watts is 50 Watts, at least in all of this known universe!
... and you are quite correct, and leave me to now ponder on that difference -- and just how much of that difference is imagined? ... and especially if I ever found out that both razors used the same blade! ... but, 50 Watts is 50 Watts, at least in all of this known universe!Did you measure if those 50w are actually there, or do you trust what counterfeit heating element says? Also, power rating does not make a good soldering iron by itself. I have a 60w firestick made in 1968 lying somewhere, but does the power rating make it a good soldering iron? If there is no good temperature transfer between the heater and the tip, and good a temperature control which decently senses an actual tip temperature, power rating is useless.
... but, actual use and results are what determine my tools, not measurements and debates on the meaning of life, or "perceived benefits" ...
AND, I am using a 26V @ 3.2A transformer on my Hakko, so I would expect that it is putting out a bit more than 50W, but a guess on my part.
(
... but, actual use and results are what determine my tools, not measurements and debates on the meaning of life, or "perceived benefits" ...Therefore you even don't know if what you are claiming is true.QuoteAND, I am using a 26V @ 3.2A transformer on my Hakko, so I would expect that it is putting out a bit more than 50W, but a guess on my part.
(Why you still keep calling it "Hakko"? There is no a single Hakko part in it. And BTW, it's not ESD safe because the plastic used is usual crap, not proper static dissipative material.