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Disclaimer: I purposely have the focus mechanism and boom inverted from how Amscope shows it.
Trinocular head:
I had a project that I wanted to do a video of https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects-designs-and-technical-stuff/video-of-design-and-build-of-precision-kelvin-banana-jacks-and-header-pins/msg148204/#msg148204 and a lot of it would need to be done under the microscope. I also wanted to be able to take still shots thru the scope also. So I decided to try an eyepiece microscope camera on my Amscope SM-3B zoom binocular microscope. I talked to Amscope sales and they said the MU series of camera were the best they had in the reasonable price range and it also had the best software. So I got a MU500 camera (5Mpixel) and tried it in the eyepiece tube. The camera worked fine but it's not real convenient to try to look thru the other eyepiece with the camera hanging out of the other eyepiece. It also would mean that every time I wanted to take a picture or video clip I would have to remove one eyepiece and insert the camera. So it was pretty obvious that I needed a trinocular head so the camera could always be ready and I could look thru the eyepieces while I filmed. I got a SM745T zoom trinocular head to replace my binocular head. This head has a slide rod that switches the camera tube in but simultaneously blanks the left eyepiece. You lose your stereo vision which is harder to work without. (A scope that keeps both eyepieces working while the camera tube is active costs well over $1000.00 so I will live with it). You can get used to looking with both eyes open even though the left eyepiece is black but you still have no depth perception.
Lesson learned: Don't think any video based system of magnification is going to be great to directly work with. The Stereo microscope is popular for a reason, depth perception. Video is great for documentation but not great to work under.
The camera tube has an adjustment to allow the camera to be focused while the eyepieces are in focus. My suggestion (if you are buying a scope) is even if you don't think you will ever want to take pictures or video it only costs $19.40 more for the trinocular head, so buy it if you can.
Camera:
Very solid, heavy all metal enclosure. Feels like you could drive nails with it without hurting it.
The lowest resolution (640x 480) at 57 fps of the 5M pixel camera seemed a little grainy so I also tried the 10M pixel camera whose lowest resolution was (912 x 684) at 27 fps. It turns out that the obtainable fps is also computer dependent and I got WAY lower fps numbers than claimed. Slower than about 20 fps is not very useable since it gets hard to focus or follow motion on screen. The real Gotcha is that the fps drops even more when you actually record a video clip compared to just viewing it live on the computer screen. So it turns out the 5M pixel worked better for all around use since I could get a consistent >30 fps while actually recording. It also has 1280 x 960 @ 18 fps (8 fps actual) and 2592 x 1944 @ 5 fps (1.8 fps actual) resolutions that work great for still picture capture. So don't think more M pixels is better for microscope camera work. Even if you are only taking still shots trying to focus at 1.8 fps is a frustrating experience. The image gets sharper as the resolution goes up so even if you pre-focus at at the lowest resolution you still need to fine focus at the higher resolutions.
Software:
This is the first microscope camera software I have used but I am impressed with it. It seems like it has just about anything you could want in image capture and manipulation and the manual is actually understandable and is terse but complete. The real bonus to me as a machinist was all the measurement features that you can use on still shots. This is where the higher resolutions for still shots is usefull. You can calibrate for multiple magnifications and save the constants then switch to whatever power you are using. There is a catch with zoom so see my detent mod below for an explanation. I did a lot of testing with the calibration and accuracy of measurements and it is impressively accurate.
Camera screen with all the function tabs on the left.
Measurement screen with random measurement examples on the still picture
Lens protection mod:
I do a lot of tool grinding and soldering under the scope so I cut some polycarbonate circles that are the diameter of the LED light ring. I stick these on the light ring with three very little pieces of the thick clear double stick tape. This protects the lenses from solder smoke and exploding grinding disks and grinding swarf.
Laptop shelf:
I made the shelf out of a worn out acrylic glass bead cabinet window and a chunk of pet plastic. I used the knob from the stop collar that came with the scope. It just clamps to the main post of the base.
Cover:
Make yourself a cover for the scope it keeps the whole unit and especially the eyepieces clean. This is just a shopping bag cut and heat sealed in a few places. I uncover just the eyepieces when I use it and leave the cover on all the time.
Slide shelf:
I do a lot of things where I need a lot of space below the focal plane like using a dremel tool or inspecting cutting tools in the toolholders. And I also do a lot where I want to put a small part on the table under the lens. So I just put a piece of 3/8” x 6” x 18” steel plate between the feet of the base of the microscope. This can be slid back out of the way when necessary or pulled out to put your work on. With this setup I hardly ever have to move the scope up and down on the main post.
Zoom knob detent mod:
When you calibrate for MEASUREMENT in the software for a particular magnification you have to be able to repeat that exact zoom amount or your calibration is no good. That means you can only do the two extremes of zoom where the knob stop gives you a repeatable position. Or calibrate every time you want an intermediate zoom location and don't touch the zoom or you will have to recalibrate again. So I modified the zoom knob to have spring ball detent stops at every magnification marking on the zoom knob. This allows calibrating all the settings once and saving the constants so I can pick whatever mag I am on and measure instantly.
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Don't let Dave see that clean bench, he'll have a fit
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I've got pretty much that same Amscope setup at work. I got one level up in boom stand, and one down in camera, but I think it's the same head. I was a little skeptical of the quality online considering the price, but I was pleasantly surprised when it got here. I've spent a bunch of hours reworking 0402s under it and it's really pretty comfortable.
You are totally right about working using the USB camera. It's not really practical. The one I got has color balance issue and the light has to be just right or it gets all washed out, but it's still nice for taking pictures of manufacturing issues and such. The motion blurs a bit too much real time as well. One issue I have with the way the camera mounts is that it doesn't lock into position and can rotate at will. I had to tape it in position so I didn't bump the scope and have it go all sideways.
I see you got the LED ring light. I have one of those at home, but I got the cheaper florescent one at work. The LED one is worth the extra 20 bucks USD or something. One thing about the ring light is that the housing is plastic. There is nothing wrong with that, but the right side has a bunch of little holes now from when I accidentally poked it with a soldering iron. oops.
It's no Olympus or Nikon, but it definitely gets the job done. It would be interesting to see how much they actually cost from the factory in China or wherever they get them made.
Good job on the mods. I really like the laptop tray idea. I might have to do that one. -
I might add that the addition of a 0.5X, screw-on objective lens gives plenty of working distance. I bought one to use with my B&L zoom scope and 188 LED illuminator making a very nice workstation. My camera is the 3 Megapixel version which is plenty of resolution given the quality of the microscope optics. The latest software (3.5.563) can be downloaded from the manufacture @ www.touptek.com .
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Agreed, I have the .5 objective and use it when 22.5X is enough magnification. I also have 20X eyepieces so that I can keep the .5 objective on and get to 45X. But that puts a lot more glass in the optical loop and the clarity and brightness are not as good as the 10X eyepieces and no .5X lens. The working distance is usualy adequate without the .5X lens added.
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This head has a slide rod that switches the camera tube in but simultaneously blanks the left eyepiece. You lose your stereo vision which is harder to work without. (A scope that keeps both eyepieces working while the camera tube is active costs well over $1000.00 so I will live with it). You can get used to looking with both eyes open even though the left eyepiece is black but you still have no depth perception.
I am thinking about buying a stereo microscope and also noticed that most trino heads have this slide rod for switching between the camera tube and one of the eyes.
How annoying is losing the depth perception during soldering?
And where have you seen the other (more expensive) types? My experience is that most of these trino's have also the problem but are just lacking the information in the description.
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I never solder when the camera is switched in. It's one or the other. I'm either taking a picture of something, or using the scope through both eyepieces.
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How annoying is losing the depth perception during soldering?QuoteVery annoying
And where have you seen the other (more expensive) types? My experience is that most of these trino's have also the problem but are just lacking the information in the description.
I saw it on Amscope but I can't find it. Give them a call. -
And where have you seen the other (more expensive) types? My experience is that most of these trino's have also the problem but are just lacking the information in the description.
I saw it on Amscope but I can't find it. Give them a call.
Thanks. I had a very nice discussion with them. It is called the 'simul-focal stereo microscope' series. The price is around 500 USD (head, optics and dual arm boom) as long as you don't live in a country at the end of the world, like me (means: Germany). For me, shipping costs and bank transfer are in the region of 333 USD (plus 100 USD tax).
Nevertheless, this means that this type of microscopes are out there and I just need to find a European company who sells these optical masterpieces. -
I never solder when the camera is switched in. It's one or the other. I'm either taking a picture of something, or using the scope through both eyepieces.
In the moment, I am soldering with bare eyes down to 0603 & 0.5mm pitch. Afterwards I am checking the outcome with an USB microscope. The result looks like eaten and spit out again. Nevertheless, normally the resulting circuit works.
My guess is that I need a stereo microscope (and I like the idea of recording my workflow. Even if I only can use it as a bad example). And I think that I will change my solder to 63 / 37 otherwise someone will eventually get stabbed by my spiky solder joints. -
Here are the simul-focal units from Amscope. I would definately get one of these if If I had it to do over. That 3.5 to 90 X continuous zoom is pretty awesome also.
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Hi Robrenz,
Hopefully you can give me your point of view.
I want to get one of these simul-focal units from Amscope. http://store.amscope.com/sm-4tpz-frl-3m.html
mainly just for electronics but also so my family can use it for school science stuff.
Are there any extras I might need or changes I might want. Is 3.5 to 90x a good range to go for?
My wife wants to be able to shine light up through a slide as well, I should easily be able to arrange this with the boom stand, is that right?
Any other suggestions, changes welcome, from anyone.
Thanks
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That looks like a good pick. I wish I had the simufocal. the 3.5 to 90 is more than sufficient for electronic work 45 is realy the most I ever use even on my machine shop work. I don't think this will be great for looking at slides even if you could hook up some sort of up light and slide support. And the magnification used on slides is usualy a lot higher. Re-read my section above about actual fps acheved on the computer. I am very suspect about the claimed performance of the 3 megapixel camera but it might just be a sweet spot that actualy performs that well. Amscope is very good on returns/adjustments so try that camera right away and see if it meets your needs. Your computer performance is part of that achievable fps so I am not saying Amscope is giving bogus specs, you just might need a super computer to get the fps they quote. Exposure settings also have an effect so you need to play around with that to see what gives the highest fps. IMO don't expect to continuosly work using the computer screen, the best fps you get will still seem laggy and drive you crazy.
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Very nice report and set up. I have been looking at these also. I just sold my stereo scientific/medical microscope to put the money toward one of these (3.5X-90X).
My only concern is using the stop collar for the laptop shelf. I would hate to have the boom crash down on my work. I might consider mounting a 15 inch LCD monitor on it. I wonder if an additional stop collar can be purchased separately. I will have to ask them. -
What is the maximum magnification necessary for general electronic work? Is 90x going to be used or should I just get up to 45x?
Are there any disadvantages in the 3.5 to 90xlenselens over the 3.5 to 45x, such as more distortion or less light?
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Exactly the same lenses are in use for all of them. The difference between the 45X and the 90X is just the addition of the 2X barlow that screws on to the objective lense.
10x eyepiece x 1X built in objective lens x the .7 to 4.5 zoom = 7X to 45X range
10x eyepiece x 1X built in objective lens x 0.5 barlow x the .7 to 4.5 zoom = 3.5X to 22.5X range. Perfect for electronic work with 165mm working distance.
10x eyepiece x 1X built in objective lens x 2.0 barlow x the .7 to 4.5 zoom = 14X to 90X range -
My only concern is using the stop collar for the laptop shelf. I would hate to have the boom crash down on my work. I might consider mounting a 15 inch LCD monitor on it. I wonder if an additional stop collar can be purchased separately. I will have to ask them.
Thanks, I have flipped my boom mount from the normal orientation and there is no room for the stop collar as shown in the pics. I only used the knob and pressure strip from the stop collar. That white ring is a piece of PET plastic I machined to have a large enough face to support the acrylic shelf that is screwed to it. I would have used the original stop collar for the shelf but it was not large enough to use. I have not had the boom slip in the two years that I have been using it daily. -
I have not had the boom slip in the two years that I have been using it daily.
Good to know. Since the smaller flat panel monitor I plan on using does not weigh much I can probably fashion something up in the shop to support a shelf. Thanks -
Hi, I'm also interested in that scope, but I need to know four things :
- what is the eye relief, in other words can you wear glasses + safety glasses and still have the full field of view
- can you show how you modified the zoom knob, can I do the same with minimum tooling (no lathe, no CNC, but I have a drill press and a 3D printer) ?
- can you take some pictures of a ruler graduation or any sharp black and white thing at 3.5x 90x and some in between, I mainly want to see the optics quality (colour fringing, sharpness)
- and finally, does the working distance change a lot when zooming, can you give a rough idea of the focus distance between the end of the lens and the sample at different zooms ?
Thanks ! -
Hi, I'm also interested in that scope, but I need to know four things :
- what is the eye relief, in other words can you wear glasses + safety glasses and still have the full field of viewQuoteYes I always have safety glasses on and it is no problem.
- can you show how you modified the zoom knob, can I do the same with minimum tooling (no lathe, no CNC, but I have a drill press and a 3D printer) ?QuoteNot a trivial task if you don't have some machinery. It is a 3/32" dia. ball in a hole with a spring loading it added to the black collar behind the knob. The knob is hollow so I had to machine the knob to receive a metal ring with the conical detent holes in it. The detent holes have to be phased to line up with the graduations.
- can you take some pictures of a ruler graduation or any sharp black and white thing at 3.5x 90x and some in between, I mainly want to see the optics quality (colour fringing, sharpness)QuoteI don't have time to take special shots but 4 images are below.
- and finally, does the working distance change a lot when zooming, can you give a rough idea of the focus distance between the end of the lens and the sample at different zooms ?QuoteThe total focus adjustment for the whole 0.7 to 4.5 zoom range is 5mm
Thanks !
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Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the Amscope 3.5-90 simu-focal head with the dual boom, the adjustable 144 LED light ring, and a 5 MP camera. I ordered the 90 as I plan on looking at other things besides electronics with it. Due to the overall size I plan on building a separate 30 inch by 30 inch workstation for it to save my main bench space. I will wait until it arrives and play with it a little so I can choose the correct height. I already have a taller stool and plan on enough room for the computer underneath with the monitor overhead along with space for the hot air, soldering station, exhaust fan, and hand tools.
I think the front of the workstation under the head might have a removable section with a lower level so I have space for a circuit board holder. It can't be too deep as I still need room for my legs underneath when I'm sitting at it so I will have to wait until I see how much hight is required. My goal would be to have a board laying flat on the work surface under the head and a board in the circuit board holder be about the same height without making much height adjustment to the microscope head. Maybe it's not even needed but my board holders usually add about 4 or 5 inches to the height and that would require the head of the microscope to be that much higher. I suppose I could make a board holder that just lays flat so there is not that much difference in height since the board should usually be flat under the head anyway. Still, my two favorite board holders easily rotate the board so you can get at both without removing it. I like that option when I'm working on through hole stuff which is more often the case at this point. -
How is your dv7 holding up? Had to update mine to W7 after Vista self-nuked, and some of the plastic coating is starting to peel off.
Its doing great, It had W7 from the start. I had to put a new cd drive in it but that's all. -
Hello good morning to the whole forum...
I am new here... I am interested to electronics and mechanics... I would want to exchange opinions and projects and suggestions... I have in mind to modify my microscope stereo binocular..
someone of you to knowledge of projects or prototypes of binocular conversion to trinocular? is it a change possible conversion that it could work? who can help me for this?
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Hello good morning to the whole forum...
I am new here... I am interested to electronics and mechanics... I would want to exchange opinions and projects and suggestions... I have in mind to modify my microscope stereo binocular.. someone of you to knowledge of projects or prototypes of binocular conversion to trinocular? is it a change possible conversion that it could work? who can help me for this?
I doubt it would be possible and certainly not cost effective time wise to try and make it a trinocular. If your current eyepieces are removable you should be able to fit a camera in one of them to take photos. My camera came with adapters for mounting in microscopes with different eyepiece sizes. -
hi Slj... I already have what you describe, but I need to use both two eyepieces and camera..