I don't think it would be practicalor beneficial to run it while disassembled; my interest is in replacing capacitors, and that would be easier with the boards out of the frame.
From memory: remove all screws, unplug all ribbon kables, pull out the chopper led contacts, unplug the 3 coaxes (if present), lift out upper board, done.
From memory: remove all screws, unplug all ribbon kables, pull out the chopper led contacts, unplug the 3 coaxes (if present), lift out upper board, done.
I presume the coaxes are removed at the board end, and not by soldering (cf the delay line in Tek 465).
I assumed the two PCBs should be removed as one unit, then separated, worked on, then reunited, and the unit reinstalled in the case. In my 7075 there are two sets of contacts, the chopper LEDs (B5-B8) plus four (B1-B4) near the short edge. The latter are completely
between the two boards, which makes it bizarrely difficult to position them correctly when the bottom PCB is attached to the case and the top board is being lowered inside the case.
I know software engineers can be, um, intellectually challenged, but I've usually found mechanical engineers to be a little more, um, realistic.
From memory: remove all screws, unplug all ribbon kables, pull out the chopper led contacts, unplug the 3 coaxes (if present), lift out upper board, done.
I presume the coaxes are removed at the board end, and not by soldering (cf the delay line in Tek 465).
Out of my 6 7075 5 have coax and there is a connector, on the 6th those signals are in the ribbons.
I assumed the two PCBs should be removed as one unit,
I removed the boards separately.
then separated, worked on, then reunited, and the unit reinstalled in the case. In my 7075 there are two sets of contacts, the chopper LEDs (B5-B8) plus four (B1-B4) near the short edge. The latter are completely between the two boards, which makes it bizarrely difficult to position them correctly when the bottom PCB is attached to the case and the top board is being lowered inside the case.
You mount the boards first, then you insert those two interboard connectors, much easier.
I know software engineers can be, um, intellectually challenged, but I've usually found mechanical engineers to be a little more, um, realistic.
From memory: remove all screws, unplug all ribbon kables, pull out the chopper led contacts, unplug the 3 coaxes (if present), lift out upper board, done.
I presume the coaxes are removed at the board end, and not by soldering (cf the delay line in Tek 465).
Out of my 6 7075 5 have coax and there is a connector, on the 6th those signals are in the ribbons.
I don't see a ribbon for that, so I'll assume there is coax in the cable,
I assumed the two PCBs should be removed as one unit,
I removed the boards separately.
then separated, worked on, then reunited, and the unit reinstalled in the case. In my 7075 there are two sets of contacts, the chopper LEDs (B5-B8) plus four (B1-B4) near the short edge. The latter are completely between the two boards, which makes it bizarrely difficult to position them correctly when the bottom PCB is attached to the case and the top board is being lowered inside the case.
You mount the boards first, then you insert those two interboard connectors, much easier.
OK, I'll file my fingers down to 3mm, so they will fit through gap between the upper board and case. Seeing the position of the B1-B4 is more tricky; I don't know of a camera that small, so I suppose I'll just have to use my x-ray vision or put my eyes on stalks.
Why couldn't they have provided the same inter-board connector as used for B5-B8 chopper? Sigh.
More seriously, thanks for your time and advice!
OK, I'll file my fingers down to 3mm, so they will fit through gap between the upper board and case.
I think you're on to something now
Seeing the position of the B1-B4 is more tricky; I don't know of a camera that small, so I suppose I'll just have to use my x-ray vision or put my eyes on stalks. Why couldn't they have provided the same inter-board connector as used for B5-B8 chopper? Sigh.
Aren't they very similar? It did take a few tries, make sure that they are perfectly straight first, and then it is possible to feel if they go in or not...
More seriously, thanks for your time and advice!
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The important difference if that the b5-b8 connecting pins protrude above the upper PCB and can be removed when the two PCBs are still screwed together. The b1-b4 connecting pins are completely between the two PCBs and cannot even be seen until after the PCBs are separated, let alone removed.
See the OPs picture of the boards.