I would implement mounting holes to be more independent from the housing and several testpins for the different stages for easier debugging.
Further I would think about to "erase" the whole battery circuit as the heater is a real "current sucker".
But first I want to finish this puppy.
Martin
I would implement mounting holes to be more independent from the housing and several testpins for the different stages for easier debugging.
Further I would think about to "erase" the whole battery circuit as the heater is a real "current sucker".
But first I want to finish this puppy.
Martin
I haven't thoroughly looked yet, but there might already be some test points. I recall DRC mentioning VIAs only connected on one side, and not having any other purpose. One of those was on a +13.5V line, which I assumed was an intended test point.
I'm probably skipping everything to do with the battery anyway, but I don't see a purpose in removing it from the board in case I ever change my mind about wanting it to be portable for 5 minutes. 😉
What test points would you add? I want to see if there are any other changes I should make before ordering the board...again. 😉
I would have to check the circuit diagram again, but in principle all voltages generated by the board (3V3, 10.5,V -10.5V, as well as the reference output of the MAX chip (5V).
I think it is easier and safer to measure at such test points instead of measuring directly at the components with test probes.
I would have to check the circuit diagram again, but in principle all voltages generated by the board (3V3, 10.5,V -10.5V, as well as the reference output of the MAX chip (5V).
I think it is easier and safer to measure at such test points instead of measuring directly at the components with test probes.
That's what I figured. I know there's that via I mentioned for the 13.5V, I'll look again and see if there are already others hiding.
What do you think about this? I added test points for 3.3V, 5V, +/- 10.5V, and +/- 13.5V (wrote 10.5 instead of 10.49 to save space).
Nice.
Ref_out is missing, but if I remember the circuit diagram correctly, we can measure this over a cap.
Ref_out is missing, but if I remember the circuit diagram correctly, we can measure this over a cap.
I'm confused. What point is Ref_out? Output has its own test point already, and the voltages marked REF are the same as the 10.49V test points.
I added a few test points on the rear (for no reason 😉), and a better place to jumper the VIN + VOUT if not using a battery (ignore the 3D connector, I would jump directly).
What point is Ref_out?
I meant the output (pin6) of the reference (U9, Max6350).
But I have just looked at the circuit diagram again, you can measure this voltage at C36, so an extra test point is not necessary.
I meant the output (pin6) of the reference (U9, Max6350).
But I have just looked at the circuit diagram again, you can measure this voltage at C36, so an extra test point is not necessary.
Ah, I see. I added one anyway. Thought it won't be so useful once the heater crap is in place.
Thought it won't be so useful once the heater crap is in place.
The heater board is on the back, but you're right, it would only be interesting for the first test.
Thought it won't be so useful once the heater crap is in place.
The heater board is on the back, but you're right, it would only be interesting for the first test.
Yes, but the 3D printed heater enclosure covers that whole section. As you said, it's only useful for initial testing anyway.
My engraved front panel has arrived, in superb quality.
It also fits perfectly in the case, and then there was something else in the package - I don't even know how they came up with it....
What did you use for R9? It's 0Ω in the schematic. I'm probably gonna use RC0805FR-070RL.
I would have to look again in the delivery bills to see which type I ordered.
Definitely a Zero Ohm.
Good. I found one of the 10k part numbers pasted there by mistake. Dangerous BOMs. Oops. 😉
Yes, you can really only rely on the wiring diagram.
I had looked through the delivery bills and then I remembered.
I had forgotten to order it and took an 0R from Vishay from our laboratory stock,
What part numbers are you going to use for your external connections?
I still had 2 sockets, very good.
The 3D parts are still good for something, one frame is perfect as a spacer.
It looks good with the front panel, but I still have some tinkering to do because the reference board has to be mounted on the base of the housing.
It will be...
Ah, that's why I didn't find anything when I entered "Hischmann" in the Mouser search function....Same model, different brand.
That front panel looks great.
Ah, that's why I didn't find anything when I entered "Hischmann" in the Mouser search function....Same model, different brand.
It's actually made by Hirschmann for Altec. It shows both logos if you open up the datasheet. I searched by the part number to find it.
Today I took "special tools" with me from work.
These two (slightly rusty) wrenches are only used to screw the 4mm safety bushes properly.
You insert the thinner one at the front and turn it slightly until it clicks into place, then use the larger one to tighten the nut.
You can also do this with needle-nose pliers, but it's much easier and tighter this way.