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For some reason I had to limit my images to 5000kb, which is about 3 images per post. Sorry for the multiple replies, but it was the only way to get the images uploaded.
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For some reason I had to limit my images to 5000kb, which is about 3 images per post. Sorry for the multiple replies, but it was the only way to get the images uploaded.
There is absolutely NO REASON to upload a 5 MB image to the forum!
I don't need to watch fleas running underneath SMD resistors.
There is a thread somewhere about how big images should be. I haven't followed it to its end.
But, images that size SHOULD be scaled down before posting. IMHO.
For some reason I had to limit my images to 5000kb, which is about 3 images per post. Sorry for the multiple replies, but it was the only way to get the images uploaded.
- I can't remember the last time I saw a consumer device with a linear power supply, they are all switching. So it might be of use for some purposes. (But yes, linear is still better for the electronics bench.)
One thing I would like to ask is that this unit has a 120/240 switch on the back. How does that switch work? If I leave it at 240, will it work on 120V power mains? I've just never thought about it before, and most modern supplies convert automatically (if they convert at all).
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For some reason I had to limit my images to 5000kb, which is about 3 images per post. Sorry for the multiple replies, but it was the only way to get the images uploaded.
There is absolutely NO REASON to upload a 5 MB image to the forum!
I don't need to watch fleas running underneath SMD resistors.
There is a thread somewhere about how big images should be. I haven't followed it to its end.
But, images that size SHOULD be scaled down before posting. IMHO.I very much agree. 200-500KB images are plenty large enough excepting when the finest detail is required.
Clearly listed on the posting page in the Attachments and other options section:
Restrictions: 10 per post, maximum total size 5000KB, maximum individual size 4000KB
There is no reason to buy such PSU. First of all, this is switching power supply, and this means that it's output is very noisy, it produces high EM interference for nearby equipment. And it's max current is just 10 Amps which is almost the same as for popular linear PSU with 5-10 Amps. In addition this is a cheap Chinese switching mode PSU, which means that it is even more noisy than branded PSU, it produce more EM interferences, has unstable output and is not reliable. This is just a noisy kids toy.
And after all, such cheap switching mode PSU may be unsafe for your life and equipment. Because it uses cheap components on a "hot" (high voltage) part of circuit.
So, it's better to buy 10 Amps linear PSU, like KORAD KA3010D.
Switching mode PSU makes sense to buy if you're needs very high current (about 20-100 Amps) for powerful equipment and you are not worried about the level of interference and noise. So, in order to buy switching mode PSU, it needs at least 20-30 Amps output. Otherwise it can be easily replaced with linear PSU which has low noise and don't produce EM interferences.For some reason I had to limit my images to 5000kb, which is about 3 images per post. Sorry for the multiple replies, but it was the only way to get the images uploaded.
There is no sense to upload tens of images with 5 MB each. 600 kB limit is well enough. So large image may have sense if you upload a single image with a high resolution which is needed to see all details. But it have no sense for a usual teardown pictures.
There is no sense to see the dust particles shape on the table near PSU
- Sure, no need for such large photos. But also no need for the attitude from the forum veterans. Just ask the OP to please replace the photos with smaller ones?
- I can't remember the last time I saw a consumer device with a linear power supply, they are all switching. So it might be of use for some purposes. (But yes, linear is still better for the electronics bench.)
- That Korad might be a linear supply, but other than some credibility it has earned here on the forums is still just a cheap PSU that could also be dangerous. It had many faults when it first came out.
- I would be pretty confident in saying the switch on the back should be set to 120V if that is what you're feeding it.
- Can't tell exactly from the photos but the power switch wiring and the grounding looks a little suspect. Better check it out.
- What is "programmable" about this? Do you plug in to the USB port on the front or something?
If you're posting a thread like this, then you should be posting traces of output performance - turn on / off and load change transient behaviour, ripple and noise etc.
A few oversized internal photos really don't tell you anything much (apart from grounding) about the desirability of the supply for actual use.
the switch bridges half of the mains bridge rectifier with the midpoint of the two filtering caps, to form a voltage doubler.
For 230V input, it works as a normal bridge rectifier, obtaining about 330Vdc at the capacitors.
At 115V position, it makes it a voltage doubler, providing the same 330Vdc at the cap outputs.
- I can't remember the last time I saw a consumer device with a linear power supply, they are all switching. So it might be of use for some purposes. (But yes, linear is still better for the electronics bench.)
Lab power supply is not usual consumer device, it should produce clean and stable voltage for different purposes. You're needs to believe that it has clean output with no issues. With no needs to guess a riddle what is the source of that noise and why there a strange pulses... So, switching PSU is a bad choice. And if it's cheap Chinese switching PSU it is even worse..
It sounds as if you're using the wrong tool - try Resize. It's as old as the hills and standalone, but I use it to do major image compressions (~6MB down to a couple of hundred kB) with very little perceptible quality reduction...
https://resize.en.uptodown.com/windows
Edit: Eg, This one... 6MB down to 116kB.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/resistor-extreme-pulse-overload-experiments/?action=dlattach;attach=372530;image
If you're posting a thread like this, then you should be posting traces of output performance - turn on / off and load change transient behaviour, ripple and noise etc.
A few oversized internal photos really don't tell you anything much (apart from grounding) about the desirability of the supply for actual use.
It can tell you how well they have use RFI and other filters and capacitors, grounding, etc. though. Of course, the end result is a scope. I don't have a scope so I can't measure the output power cleanliness and efficiency of the unit. I was just wondering if even the unit is electronically or mechanically sound. I only saw one coil choke on it, for instance.
You mean all switching power supplies are necessarily RF noisy, like my computer power supply (that isn't at all)?
Radio, have you ever seen the output on a scope for a higher end computer power supply? They are far from dirty and unstable and their RFI is near zero.
You mean all switching power supplies are necessarily RF noisy, like my computer power supply (that isn't at all)?
Yes, all switching mode PSU have noise on the output and produce EM interference. Good branded switching mode PSU has a good filters, shielding, bypass-capacitors through shielding for enter and exit wires and is designed in such way to minimize these issues. Cheap Chinese PSU don't have it at all and is noisy like hell.Radio, have you ever seen the output on a scope for a higher end computer power supply? They are far from dirty and unstable and their RFI is near zero.
yes, it's output is very-very noisy. As I remember it has noise with up to 0.5 V peak pulses. And it has RFI, you can listen it on a short wave receiver
Well, ok, so you would call this power supply noisy?
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-rm850x-2021-power-supply-review/4