And the one for me?
Ask Keithley Santa
(There is second plate, which is much more bigger)
Has I told you I decided to sell my K2001 ... don't know if it worth to replace the display.
But before I sell it, I need to fix the front panel buttons, they are really too wearied and annoying too use.
Any good method? The most convincing i found is to glue some aluminium foil with superglue on the remains of the carbon pads.
Is there something less crude ensured to work? Or may I ask to the old witch (Befana here in Italy) if she has a membrane buttons?
Has I told you I decided to sell my K2001 ... don't know if it worth to replace the display.
But before I sell it, I need to fix the front panel buttons, they are really too wearied and annoying too use.
Any good method? The most convincing i found is to glue some aluminium foil with superglue on the remains of the carbon pads.
Is there something less crude ensured to work? Or may I ask to the old witch (Befana here in Italy) if she has a membrane buttons?
Contact service center for new keyboard. is the solution I suppose. Or try to ask here, I have only keyboard from 7001.
OK I try ... I already contacted them for the FVD but they told me they do provide only the full front assembly. Anyway worth nothing asking again ...
Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk
Has I told you I decided to sell my K2001 ... don't know if it worth to replace the display.
But before I sell it, I need to fix the front panel buttons, they are really too wearied and annoying too use.
Any good method? The most convincing i found is to glue some aluminium foil with superglue on the remains of the carbon pads.
Is there something less crude ensured to work? Or may I ask to the old witch (Befana here in Italy) if she has a membrane buttons?
I've fixed these in the past by removing a 0.5mm slice from the back of the buttons of an old TV/DVD remote with a sharp blade. Then removing the same amount from the device I wanted to fix and gluing the "good disk" onto the button being repaired. The device I repaired is still working fine after 2 or 3 years.
(Did that make sense, I haven't had any coffee yet this morning).
McBryce.
Sure makes more sense than aluminium foil :-)
Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk
I've fixed these in the past by removing a 0.5mm slice from the back of the buttons of an old TV/DVD remote with a sharp blade. Then removing the same amount from the device I wanted to fix and gluing the "good disk" onto the button being repaired. The device I repaired is still working fine after 2 or 3 years.
(Did that make sense, I haven't had any coffee yet this morning).
McBryce.
My usual line is "didn't have my THIRD coffee yet..." LOL..
Would you be so kind and tell us what glue you used...
Regards,
I've fixed these in the past by removing a 0.5mm slice from the back of the buttons of an old TV/DVD remote with a sharp blade. Then removing the same amount from the device I wanted to fix and gluing the "good disk" onto the button being repaired. The device I repaired is still working fine after 2 or 3 years.
(Did that make sense, I haven't had any coffee yet this morning).
McBryce.
My usual line is "didn't have my THIRD coffee yet..." LOL..
Would you be so kind and tell us what glue you used...
Regards,
I used a gel type superglue like this one:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htmUsing a gel means it doesn't accidentally run anywhere it shouldn't. Make sure you get the position correct first time, this stuff sticks forever.
McBryce.
Super, I have it available here.. Thanks !!
Hi y'all,
I've been through the thread twice posted on the plug in unit thread and
they suggested that I come to this one, so I am.
I belived I have a working unit that got dinged by UPS.
Here is the first issue:
Notice the glass in the upper left?
||
||
\/
Then moving forward with help from Plesa bought a VFD from him
I am now at this point:
I assume after the Built in Test (BIT) and Diagnostics
if there was an issue, it would show up on the display
instead of "press any key to exit".
I saw the tests as they were performed -- Successfully.
At present I can't take any measurments.
I just get a screen with
--------------------
I"ve gone through the manual, and find no mention of overload.
I assume the meter was used via GPIB and had a card in it.
The back cover plate wasn't with the unit.
Is there a simple method of seeing the data in the unit?
Is there a method to return the meter to default mode
without losing the stored data?
I finally have a Prologix GPIB to USB device that I've never used.
It looks new in the box.
Are there any scripts/programs available that will work from PC to
the keithley 2001 to view the data that is in it?
This is my first go round with it and any guidance would be
appreciated.
--Spike
POST SCRIPT:
After I confirm the functioning of the meter the next step I'll do is replace the
old electrolytics. I don't see any signs of leakage yet...Time probably isn't on
my side though.
I know it sounds really stupid, but press the TRIG button. These are complex system multimeters, and they will only take measurement how and when you tell them to.
Thanks Macboy,
it is taking measurements now. No, I didn't take it as sounding really stupid...my HP34401As just read,
no issues. Since this is my first Keithley and a 2001 at that, there is a learning curve. So I'm doing my best
with a little help from my friends.
I need to figure out it current programming (unsure of correct terminology) and
see why it is doing what it is doing.
I'll check some on the you tube vids also. I wish I had a had copy of the manual
I hate reading things online. But maybe I should get a big screen monitor/TV
and just put it on the bench somewhere or hang it....maybe a wi fi one....
That and GPIB and Caps.
-- Spike
I know it sounds really stupid, but press the TRIG button. These are complex system multimeters, and they will only take measurement how and when you tell them to.
You can say that again.
I found what you described for me in the manual, pdf page 88.
It's the 500 version operation manual.
QUESTION for anyone:
If I change the electrolytic capacitors on the boards...
I assume that calibration is changed and I need then to
get is calibrated, right?
That is only a $600 USD option?
If I change the electrolytic capacitors on the boards...
I assume that calibration is changed and I need then to
get is calibrated, right?
That is only a $600 USD option?
If you're careful about changing the filtering caps, you shouldn't need to recalibrate it. Technically your calibration was invalid 1 year after the last one and certainly when you opened it up to fix the VFD.
Also, you can get calibration much cheaper from independent labs, I recall somewhere around 150-200 being the lowest quote I could get.
Don't worry, just test it with a new 9V battery, if is around 9 voltish you're good
Welcome to the 2001 club
@Signal32, casinada:
Okay, then I shall order the caps, then install as time permits.
Now Casinada...it's dis-concerning that we just measure a new a 9V battery
and if it is close well that is good enough.
Though I can cross reference with HP34401As and HP3457A too.
Just to figure out how close. If I had a very very good lab standard.
I have a hobby 4 digit that I should put into service for the measurments
also.
Somewhere I have a lab grade powersupply but It isn't a lab standard though.
BTW, with everyone's help I got this 2001 going for the first time since I've owned it.
Thank you all,
My 2001 have a power problem ,when the power on, the R100(470?) is very hot, there have no voltage output? anyone know the reasons and how to fix it ?
MOSFET is likely dead, perhaps because of capacitors went poo and leaked stuff around, causing disasters.
Replace all capacitors, clean all goo very carefully, check every component in affected areas, then try again
.
I'd suggest first not connecting secondary power to analog board to prevent more disasters, before you sure power supplies are good.
Hi, I need to know the resistance between GND and +15v, will you help?
Hi, I need to know the resistance between GND and +15v, will you help?
What is idea behind? 1st check the transformer output voltage disconnected and check the +15V regulator and rectifier, all are close to each other.
I do not have to check, because all power supply are ok.
There was a crash on the + 15v line and I do not know if I've caught all the broken chips.
I have 74ohm on this line. Not too much. Will you check it for me, please?
I would like to make an order for parts, but I do not know if it's all over.