Howdy - I have a dead E3630A that I'd like to repair. I haven't even opened it up yet, but was hoping to have a schematic to look at before doing so. Agilent's website does not have one (as far as I can see, at least). Any idea where I can find one?
Thank you!
Try asking Agilent. If you're nice they'll give it to you.
You need both files. One has pcb layouts, the other schematics.
Don't ask how i got those. The answer is Space aliens or Little blue gnomes.
Please forward my thanks to the little blue gnomes!
Here ya go
You need both files. One has pcb layouts, the other schematics.
Don't ask how i got those. The answer is Space aliens or Little blue gnomes.
www.siliconvalleygarage.com/eevblog/manuals/AGILENT-E3630-1.PDF
www.siliconvalleygarage.com/eevblog/manuals/AGILENT-E3630-2.PDF
Cool, thanks! The schematics show the device to be incredibly similar to the HP 6236B. The SCR thing to limit power dissipation is new, however.
Any idea on a schematic for the display board?
Well I had time to open up my 3630A today. The pots seemed to be totally disconnected from the main PCB due to what I'm assuming was an oxidized connector. Reseating the connector seemed to fix it. Except then I found that CR10 was blown short and bringing the set voltage down, so replacing that got the outputs working.
Current reading is accurate, but the voltage display is toast. The voltage reading just says "-19.99".
Would love to see a schematic for the display board! It's fairly complicated...
Thanks!
One more update... I can see that the OL (overload) pin is pulled low on the TC14433 on the voltage side, but not pulled low on the current side of the board. Looks like there is a 1M resistor in between the input of the TC14433 on the display board and the divided down voltage coming from the main board. It has a 100nf capacitor on it as well (on the TC14433 side), to act as a low pass filter. With the output voltage set to 0V, I measure 0V on one side of that 1M resistor, and 90mv on the other side. Something seems to be wrong with the TC14433. Any idea where I can source these parts?
Edit: I swapped the two TC14433s and now the voltage reading works but the current reading does not. Problem confirmed. I hate soldering PLCCs...
I really would love to find a source for these. Microchip will sell me 5 at a time for $15 each. Ouch.
THey were made by teledyne. now owned by MicroShit.
i may have a broken module. lemme check
Any idea if aliexpress is legit or not?
Sure they are, go for it.....it will open up a whole new world to you for all sorts of goodies and a lot of crap.
They take your money when you order/checkout and seller is paid when you confirm order has arrived.
Bringing this thread back from the dead. Thank you for posting the schematic. I just repaired a broken E3630A from ebay and it came in handy. The -20 volt overload LED was permanently on and the -20 volt supply had no output at all. Both the volt and amp meter were stuck with all segments on. The -20 volt and ground banana jacks were pretty chewed and kind of ripped out from the supply. All of the button caps are also missing. When I received the supply I connected it up and discovered the 0-6 and 0-20 supplies both worked even if the displays didn't. I also noticed a hot smell coming from the unit. My finger quickly located that U9(LM339) was very hot. A little circuit tracing through schematic indicated that U9 handled the overload indication. The voltage to the chip was fine but the reference input used for the -20 volt supply was incorrect. Being the chip was smoking hot I snipped the legs that handled the -20 volt overload indicator. At that point the entire supply came to life including both the volt and amp meter. The rest of the LM339 still worked even. I replaced the LM339 and everything works exactly as it should. The -20 and ground binding posts were repaired as best possible and the supply was reassembled. I will order new key caps from Keysight and possibly some new binding posts but they aren't too bad at this point. The rest of the supply is as new. I had feared the TC14433's would need to be replaced but was pleased to see both worked fine once the bad LM339 was removed.
Thank you,
I just starting to use EEVBlog for something besides watching the videos. I'll tryout suggestion.
Thank you again, larry
Hey do you have those schematics for the hp e3630a the links for them are dead