''' I mean WOW!!!! ''' If I were to attempt it, I would cheaply do a VGA RGB 640x480 60hz, separate H&V 5v sync signals for compatibility with any PC Monitor today with world wide compatibility...
I currently have all of the horizontal timing and video signal circuits complete and am ~1/2 way through the vertical. Once I've finished the latter in another couple of nights I'll be able to display a basic B&W video raster with blank scoreboard and court net immediately. The step after that will be to get the digits displaying on the scoreboard after soldering up the a gate array which assembles/combines the discrete H and V video signals for the digit segments.
Didn't think that I would get this far already this evening! Yoo Hoo! Raster!
Didn't think that I would get this far already this evening! Yoo Hoo! Raster!
When you start surprising yourself, GK, we have no hope to catch up. Despite the speed, your wiring still looks beautiful.
Just for the look, without the flood fill, isn't that look more '70 ? Just some wild idea.
Not sure how it perform or affect the circuit performance.
''' I mean WOW!!!! ''' If I were to attempt it, I would cheaply do a VGA RGB 640x480 60hz, separate H&V 5v sync signals for compatibility with any PC Monitor today with world wide compatibility...
I really want to play it on my living room flat screen though and the old CRT TV in the workshop.
Right now we're talking about a 250x400mm board; I'm already having enough trouble simply routing the +/-15V rails across it, but if I had to route the GND connections by hand it would be a nightmare.
Right now we're talking about a 250x400mm board; I'm already having enough trouble simply routing the +/-15V rails across it, but if I had to route the GND connections by hand it would be a nightmare.Power round the outside edge perhaps, on same layer as groundplane?
Make it a ring to reduce drop.
I don't think I've got any monitors that can do PAL.
I don't think I've got any monitors that can do PAL.
Really not a problem. If your modern flat screen TV has a composite video input there is a 99% chance it will support both NTSC and PAL and most likely SECAM too. If not you just need one of these:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/composite-av-to-hdmi-converter/p/AC1722
Hmm, I didn't know that. My TV is an older Panasonic Plasma, circa 2009. I'll look it up and see if it supports PAL!
Hmm, I didn't know that. My TV is an older Panasonic Plasma, circa 2009. I'll look it up and see if it supports PAL!
If you have access to an old Amiga 500, or 2000, I'll get you the jumper # on the motherboard and you will be able to switch the composite video out from NTSC to PAL, though, it will be monochrome and off by a fraction of a few fraction of 1 Hz, though your TV should lock to this anyways. Otherwise, it wouldn't support VHS playback who's scan rate sways due to the speed of the video head speed being imperfect.
Right now we're talking about a 250x400mm board; I'm already having enough trouble simply routing the +/-15V rails across it, but if I had to route the GND connections by hand it would be a nightmare.Power round the outside edge perhaps, on same layer as groundplane?
Make it a ring to reduce drop.
Surprised you've done that much routing before finishing placement to see how much things can be pushed together to reduce overall size (I'm assuming there's quite a bit more to fit onto that layout). Seems to be quite a lot of unused space near the BNCs that the bottom-left corner stuff could be pushed into.
As mentioned earlier,people may want to display it, so there should be room to lay the regulators and tall caps flat to allow a sensible distance to a clear cover.
You certainly also want a few more mounting hole locations for a PCB that size, and some near the BNCs for support in case the panel-mount isn't used.
By the way, I *do* appreciate the feedback from everyone. I've designed 8 layer boards with 300-pin BGA packages that somehow seem *less* complex than this; having only two layers and quite a few interconnects between sections makes routing this a challenge; I'm sure there are areas where I could have laid things out more efficiently. So keep the feedback coming, it helps!
Just leave enough room between all components and hit the auto router button, no problem with all these big through hole parts
Just leave enough room between all components and hit the auto router button, no problem with all these big through hole parts
Auto-router ->>>>>
Ok, I realize your just being cheesy...
Timb is doing perfectly. Wait till everything is done, then maybe a go-over removing jumpers if possible...
What jumpers? There's currently zero wire jumpers (and none planned). There are some vias, but they can't be helped. I'm trying to keep them to a minimum for you guys etching at home since I know you have to solder a piece of wire through the hole which is kind of a pain.
What jumpers? There's currently zero wire jumpers (and none planned). There are some vias, but they can't be helped. I'm trying to keep them to a minimum for you guys etching at home since I know you have to solder a piece of wire through the hole which is kind of a pain.Ok, it's what I meant, but it's not the end of the world...
Using a discrete crystal or resonator in place of the coil for your master oscillator still keeps your circuit a valid all discrete design.
It will also prevent users from accidentally destroying their TV h-sync yoke driving transistor on their TVs if the inductor driven oscillator doesn't drift the H-sync by 1/4 of a KHz. Modern digital sampling screen's ADC use tightly locked crystal PLLs, they wont be as forgiving with out of spec HSync speed compared to an all analog CRT like the Commodore 1084s monitor you are using.