EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Mechanical & Automation Engineering => Topic started by: beanflying on November 01, 2021, 04:03:29 am
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Catch all ramble of sticking metal together by electrical means. Can likely include Spot or Laser Welding too or whatever process you like apart from maybe Gas Torch which deserves its own thread.
Youtube Resources
https://www.youtube.com/c/weldHAGOJIBI/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/weldHAGOJIBI/videos) Some excellent TIG based content the Auto translate to English works well and the with the teaching style doesn't matter that much anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/c/Welddotcom/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/Welddotcom/videos) Some of their older content in particular on MIG, Stick and TIG is excellent in particular Bob Moffats. Recently it is patchy.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHNlp0SkVEuVVHNtAuRH8UA (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHNlp0SkVEuVVHNtAuRH8UA) sppeaking of which I hope Bob gets this off the ground :-+
https://www.youtube.com/c/WeldTubeHouston/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/WeldTubeHouston/videos) More Pipe and heavy industry focus but worth a look.
https://www.youtube.com/c/PacificArcTigWelding/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/PacificArcTigWelding/videos) TIG focused content well worth a look.
https://www.youtube.com/c/TheFabricatorSeries/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/TheFabricatorSeries/videos) Loads of varied content but Car mods/repairs and roll frames feature.
https://www.youtube.com/c/weldingtipsandtricks/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/weldingtipsandtricks/videos) Can be a bit Infomercial style in parts but way more high quality advice within so look past that.
Plenty of others including some generalist Metalwork ones so add them below and I can tweak this.
Internet Resources
https://www.esabna.com/us/en/support/tools/index.cfm (https://www.esabna.com/us/en/support/tools/index.cfm) Lots of good apps, calculators and more on ESAB's site.
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources (https://www.millerwelds.com/resources) Millers Resource page and guides
Forums on Welding and or Fabrication
https://weldingweb.com/vbb/ (https://weldingweb.com/vbb/) Large and active Welding Forum
https://www.weld.com/ (https://www.weld.com/) Forum and Resources to go with the YouTube content
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place holder
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Couple of projects I am cutting out and prepping for welding.
Which will be first the Cart or the Table is still a :-// but I am leaning toward the table top then its base then the cart.
The Cart is based on a small steel filing cabinet I scrounged for $25 and 30x30x2mm Frame for the rest. The steel arrived last week so I can start chopping it up soon. The 'spare' spot on top is aspirational for the Plasma cutter I don't own yet
The Table in particular this table is a complete luxury item but I decided to do it properly and make the fabrication of square and accurate bits easier. 5mm Interlocking Pickled and Oiled table (certiflat style but not really) and 8mm 304 Stainless fixtures so I can swap them between my woodworking fixture table with a quick wipe. Righthand extension is a Vice mount. Same 30x30 frame and steel pegboard panels for storage of fixtures and clamps. I haven't had the cutting extension made yet and am still tweaking it to fold down.
Already done a bunch of prep on the waterjet cut bits with all the holes being reamed to 20mm and a light chamfer on both sides. 20mm is to keep compatibility with my woodworking gear but 5/8" is far more common if you are making one and has more existing clamps available. Really at a clean and prep stage for the table to get rid of a little flash rusting from the waterjet.
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Already done a bunch of prep on the waterjet cut bits with all the holes being reamed to 20mm and a light chamfer on both sides.
Just out of curiosity - how did you specify the tolerances when placing order for fixtures? I mean, you want to receive those with holes that are smaller than 20mm.
So did you specify 20mm holes in dxf file and they know this is supposed to be reamed to 20mm afterwards so they cut the holes tad smaller?
Or rather, did you specify lets say 19.8mm knowing based on their data, that this waterjet follows dxf centerline and has a cone that blasts 0.2mm of material(0.1+0.1) on exit, and has 0.1mm positioning tolerance on top of that? I mean, this is not a super precise machinery but how did you deal with tolerances?
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I supplied a slightly tapered plug (19.98-20.02mm) to the Waterjet company so he could cut a few sample holes prior and check his software kerf correction as I wanted a fairly high tolerance. When I went to see him initially he had a sampler of holes we looked at prior to finalizing the design. I did consider going to a Laser Cutter but this guy was more local and seemed up for the challenge.
For the Table parts I tweaked the holes to 20.1mm so the reamer was more of a cleanup for the small nubbin left by the cut process. There is still a slightly detectable bump so I could go in with a small drum or file but it can be done after if needed but filing a few hundred holes has little attraction.
In the case of the fixture and angle plate bits in Stainless they were cut at a tight 20mm and he tweaked the software kerf allowance for me to take them just under, generally from the ones I sampled they were running close to 19.95 +- a few and I know he fitted a brand new nozzle for this run so what the reamer was doing was minimal.
With the tabs and slots I put a 0.2mm clearance into the widths in CAD (-0.1mm either side on the tabs) and set the width of material to 5 and 8mm respectively knowing the metal was 0.2mm'ish under thickness. This is touchy feely more than precise engineering but the bits slide together and have a slight level of wiggle room to adjust and clamp before welding. I do this on my small Laser cutter with tab and slot boxes so I have a bit of practice.
So between the slight fit allowance of the table to fixture bits I will easily be able to hold sub 0.5mm across it without any real stress or checking. The reality of welding anything is it pushes and distorts as you go but the more square and accurate you start the closer you finish.
Edit
Last of the Table base bits arrived in the form of Leveling Casters eBay auction: #373720715093
Stash of M20x40 Hex headed screws and half nuts in 304 Stainless which against Black Steel was not that much more expensive. :o Reason for the half nuts was partly cost but also the 40mm length will get me full engagement through 18-19mm of timber and a fixture for use on my timber tables. Somewhat unsurprisingly I lack the 17mm AF Hex Key so just one more thing to add to the list.
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This topic just brought back a memory of frustration......
A few months ago I walked into the tool shop of my local Bunnings to see someone buying a highly marked down MIG/TIG/Stick welder for $200. I asked the guy there (pointing to the one being purchased) if they had any more and he said they had 3 that were sitting around for ages and finally made the decision to just clear them out ... and that was the last one. Normal price was in the $400-$500 range and while not the best you could get, it certainly comfortably covered anything I could envisage.
Now, whenever I go in, I ask ... but have not found anything close ever since. :(
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Under your "resources" you might want to add weldingweb.com which has a mix of pro and amateur welders who can answer questions and provide advice.
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Added :-+
Todays thought and sketching over a coffee. Most of the youtubers and even manufacturers get the base of their clamp designs wrong for the thinner (under say 1/4") fixture tables and try and use the hole sides to jamb a round peg in at an angle to hold down. The issue with this is you will deform and or stretch the hole and this will lead to it being useless for positional holding in short order.
So Pinching an idea from Fireball Tools and a quick and dirty model in Fusion to work out some clearances on the 20mm hole. The frames of these cheapy Clamps is about 3/16" or 5mm so plenty of meat in them to weld and there is enough material from the cut off section to make the other two plates from. ** Take the plating off where you are going to weld if you like your lungs.
Same principle will apply to chopped G or F clamps as the force from the clamp is more rotational rather than a lift against it.
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[attachimg=1]
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:-DD
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This topic just brought back a memory of frustration......
A few months ago I walked into the tool shop of my local Bunnings to see someone buying a highly marked down MIG/TIG/Stick welder for $200. I asked the guy there (pointing to the one being purchased) if they had any more and he said they had 3 that were sitting around for ages and finally made the decision to just clear them out ... and that was the last one. Normal price was in the $400-$500 range and while not the best you could get, it certainly comfortably covered anything I could envisage.
Now, whenever I go in, I ask ... but have not found anything close ever since. :(
my mma/mig/tig arrived yesterday, its local brand for about $200+ rated 200A+ or whatever.. nowadays abundant of them can be had from china as cheap as $100 3 in 1 mma/mig (gasless)/tig but i dont want to be too cheap so i picked the one that can support gas mig.. it took me this long because of fear and frustration factor (solid state tech are not as durable as the dinasour age thick transformer type, and my bad experience with mig expecting it to behave like a stick welding, my bad actually) so i've been living with dinasour age transformer for 20+ years. recently i had a fucked up moment with filleted metal that i tried to assemble with the old machine, and electric bill skyrocketed for no good reason, that forced me to open my option to solid state igbt tech. i can see the one that i bought, has neat tricks like VRD, Arc Force, Hot Start, 2T/4T. so from the outside it seems to be an interesting machine with tech that i missed for years compared to the single mode fat heavy assed dinasour transformer.. hopefully the extra $100 tag compared to the cheapest hunglow is a worthy buy. lets see how many years (or months?) of gut it can has. finger crossed. ps: my tig torch,w accs are on their way, the struggle is actually on trying to find Argon/CO2 tank supplier near my secluded area here.
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you forgot acetylene
https://www.youtube.com/user/897473 (https://www.youtube.com/user/897473)
Gas brazing is a wonderful technique. yes he is a artist but its extremely useful for physics objects. There are alot of things that naturally you would want to weld, but brazing is strong enough and easier to apply and makes for a quicker project... so its a worthwhile technique.. plus its extremely cost effective, especially if you want to stay brand-name with your welding purchases...
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Catch all ramble of sticking metal together by electrical means. Can likely include Spot or Laser Welding too or whatever process you like apart from maybe Gas Torch which deserves its own thread.
snippity.....
No I didn't I suggested it deserves and needs its own as it is every bit as diverse and specialized as Electric welding.
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This topic just brought back a memory of frustration......
A few months ago I walked into the tool shop of my local Bunnings to see someone buying a highly marked down MIG/TIG/Stick welder for $200. I asked the guy there (pointing to the one being purchased) if they had any more and he said they had 3 that were sitting around for ages and finally made the decision to just clear them out ... and that was the last one. Normal price was in the $400-$500 range and while not the best you could get, it certainly comfortably covered anything I could envisage.
Now, whenever I go in, I ask ... but have not found anything close ever since. :(
I was in Bunnings a few weeks ago and saw a 140A stick welder for $99. I'd been wanting to try welding for a while and had seen someones YT video on one they bought (from Bunnings) for $50. It was on clearance and I just said that I'd seen some video on YT where it was $50 can I buy it for $50 too. They said yes. It was a Bossweld mini-arc 140. I'm hoping if you buy it from Bunnings it will at least meet the specs on the box.
I saw a few videos on YT tearing down cheap welders bought on Ebay and something I did notice was this one had two big input caps instead of just one. One clearly had space on the PCB for two but one was unpopulated. And internally the Bossweld one had copper bussbars where the Ebay cheapies had aluminium (if that). Don't know if it makes a huge difference but it is clearly cheaping out.
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This topic just brought back a memory of frustration......
A few months ago I walked into the tool shop of my local Bunnings to see someone buying a highly marked down MIG/TIG/Stick welder for $200. I asked the guy there (pointing to the one being purchased) if they had any more and he said they had 3 that were sitting around for ages and finally made the decision to just clear them out ... and that was the last one. Normal price was in the $400-$500 range and while not the best you could get, it certainly comfortably covered anything I could envisage.
Now, whenever I go in, I ask ... but have not found anything close ever since. :(
I was in Bunnings a few weeks ago and saw a 140A stick welder for $99. I'd been wanting to try welding for a while and had seen someones YT video on one they bought (from Bunnings) for $50. It was on clearance and I just said that I'd seen some video on YT where it was $50 can I buy it for $50 too. They said yes. It was a Bossweld mini-arc 140. I'm hoping if you buy it from Bunnings it will at least meet the specs on the box.
I saw a few videos on YT tearing down cheap welders bought on Ebay and something I did notice was this one had two big input caps instead of just one. One clearly had space on the PCB for two but one was unpopulated. And internally the Bossweld one had copper bussbars where the Ebay cheapies had aluminium (if that). Don't know if it makes a huge difference but it is clearly cheaping out.
Mate. Do yourself a favour and find a local men's shed. Identify the resident hermit there and they will get you going with technique and tool advice.
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Bumpity Bump - sort of.
Janky jigging today but it got the job done. TIG 50 amps no filler on a Hydraulic jack screw that go sheared off. Part of a rebuild on my Lifting table and it will be attached with the flex drive used on part of the jig. The Hex was just a cut down spare nut driver and I will run a die back up over the weld to tidy the thread area.
Magnetic pointer/earth is a great thing to add to your collection too.
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Bob is back with nearly a dozen videos in the last month. Good mix of factory tours and welding info presented in his cruisy style.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAFsIuzCdKA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAFsIuzCdKA)
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I am WEAK and it was just on $500 AUD because of some loyalty points I had and because it was Boxing Day it got me another $100 in vouchers...... Got a trailer to rebuild this year and a little work down the yard so Gasless MIG is faster/sensible over TIG outside and WAY WAY better than my stick welding skills are likely to ever get back to.
At least that was 'part' of the justification >:D
160A Mig/Stick box with all the modern easy set point and shoot but can be over ridden and will run Gasless or Gas, Steel, Stainless or Aluminium.
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160A Mig/Stick box with all the modern easy set point and shoot but can be over ridden and will run Gasless or Gas, Steel, Stainless or Aluminium.
I have never heard about 15% duty cycle rating. Usually these ratings were given in 35% and 100% ED at 10 minutes.
Duty Cycle STICK:
140A@15%
54A@100%
Duty Cycle MIG:
160A@15%
62A@100%
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I had a talk to the product guys at a recent trade show and theirs is 1 1/2 minutes to 10 off so it is a generous 15% I guess. The reality is most of what I will be doing with it will be 2-3mm wall tubing so you don't need 160A regardless. If you are welding 25 to even 50mm SHS I doubt you could weld much over that duty cycle unless you have a heap of tube fixtured ready to go.
Different story if you are trying to weld 6-10mm plate or continual root and filler passes but then this is not the welder you buy either. This is also not a BS evilbay duty cycle either requiring 200% efficiency ::) it runs on a 10A 240V socket.
The other attractive thing to me in part is it will run off the Generator I own while the TIG I got a year or so back will not and a larger MIG would be in the same boat. Even if I wound the TIG back it is worth a lot more $ if I fried before you get to the issues of Gas outdoors.
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160A Mig/Stick box with all the modern easy set point and shoot but can be over ridden and will run Gasless or Gas, Steel, Stainless or Aluminium.
I have never heard about 15% duty cycle rating. Usually these ratings were given in 35% and 100% ED at 10 minutes.
Duty Cycle STICK:
140A@15%
54A@100%
Duty Cycle MIG:
160A@15%
62A@100%
They exist. I have a MIG with 15% duty cycle too. It was VERY cheap.
At least not that cheap to base it off of Amps, since afaik that's pretty much constant in MIG mode (around 60 amps on mine).
It's an export so the 15% duty cycle at 24V can't be taken too seriously either. Well, at least it still works, only keeping this particular one to lend.
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what electrodes do people use and what did you learn with?
I went with 3/32. I got lanthinated, ceriated (only 1), zircronated and the LaYZr ones, along with the dremel mounted sharpener with the diamond stone so I can do grinding near a vacuum cleaner.
I am just practicing laying beads right now. I seem to contaminate it alot. It seems that the 2% lanthinated one is the most durable. From what I gather the Zirconated one might be best for aluminum and the lanthium/zircron/yttrium one might be the best for ferrous metal, if you know what you are doing.. but in general it seems that the lanthinted one gives me better results for everything. The cerinated one seems to have great reviews but I found the one I have seems to give me the hardest time.
They seem like a minor factor until you get proficient with the hand work.
And I did find an interesting one, Yttriated tungsten, which seems new and rather undocumented, but I feel like it will probobly only be a minor difference.
I tried to make a torch holder basket out of the stainless filler rod by welding a big one with a small one for a first project but my stainless substrate was thinner then the rod so it turned out to be a hard weld, I managed to tack one on in like 6 places but the second one got melted so I decided to just practice running beads on the rest of the sheet metal. Right now I am only working on a 1/4 inch flat bar (3 inch by 3 feet) laying on the welding table loose with the clamp on the work piece, waiting for more metal for the table top.
I also experimented with solar flux B, I mixed a bit of it in a bottle cap with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, brushed it on the bottom of the work piece with a acid brush, and it greatly improved the surface quality on the underside of the piece of stainless sheet (the weld area was floating in the air), when I started to run beads on the parts without it, there was alot of 'sugaring' on the bottom.
The foot pedal control is very confusing (i prefer the O/A torch 'distance' heat control method), but it does allow me to get less of a messed up bead on the edge of the metal if I reduce power on the last bit.
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what did you learn with?
What a good question. I'll have to ask my guru.
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the other tip I have is for fixturing small parts you can use cleco parallel jaw clips, so long you have enough thermal isolation not to melt it with the tack weld. They are zinc but it seems not to be above warm but handleable after a tack joint a inch away.
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attempted to butt weld some 1/16 stainless plates at 50 amps with a 1/16th electrode on top of a 1/4 inch copper plate.
High distortion occurs, I am not sure if its possible to weld it without high distortion. The best video I see has some guy working at similar power levels with a hammer. The other videos show the plates being welded in a heavy fixture. Needs to be banged out even after tack welding. I see the 'test' for this thickness for certification involves working in a fixture that clamps the material within a centimeter of the weld bead on the whole surface ( chill bars ).
Honestly, I would say its not that much better then O/A. At least, it won't make distortion magically disappear. Less hammer work but you will still be hammering unless you put very tight fixturing (the plates that look like side cutters up close). It's nicer in every regard but its not a magic bullet if anyone was curious. I don't mean that the process is not faster, easier, less work, etc.. just it won't make all the problems magically go away. The fixture is still critical IMO.
There are pulse processes that look very interesting (the cold welding thing), which is unique, but this is just my view so far on conventional bead laying for say making a box.
You might say it goes from a unmanageable amount of post work to a manageable amount of post work. I do have a good feeling about the 1/8 inch plate, but its rather beefy for my applications.
I thought about trying the method of using a much higher current with a pulse per push to see how that turns out, letting it cool in between.
i.e. don't skip on the welding table and fixturing to splurge on a nice welder, it wont save you there lol.
I want to get those heavy ass chill bar clamps and compare the tig to O/A weld. That would be very interesting.
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does anyone have any nice welding clamps or fixtures they made?
I got an idea to make chill bars. I got a aluminum block, a big one. I see chill blocks are like 900$+
I thought it might be pretty simple to setup some stops on the table saw, then cut a T - shaped groove in the middle of the block. So long the stops are proper (magnetic switches), I think the saw should be able to widdle out a T shaped slot.
Then, I would put end plates on both sides of the brick with the T in it (glue or screws) to seal it up without the need for any milling machine.
For the gas diffuser I thought to get two brass tubes of the correct thickness for the bottom of the T slot. Solder them together like a double barrel shotgun and then cut the top tube in half, so it makes a U on top of a O. Then drill holes down the middle of the U (cut pipe) to make a gas diffuser that has nice rounded walls. Then just stuff it into the hole, throw in a segment of drilled copper on top to cover it up, and maybe stuff a rolled up tube made of out screen material under the copper to act as more of a diffuser.
I see alot of people make this but I ain't see one with plates on the end, so that means you can use a saw to cut the whole thing. The thermal conductivity and stiffness increase from having machined side walls instead of just putting plates on the sides is bull shit IMO.
(https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/aerospace-weld-test-fixture.jpg)
What I am saying is that if you just put walls on the sides made out of plates it gets rid of alot of complex milling.
The only hard part would be to cut slots on the top steel pieces to hide the screw heads, and the small slot in the middle of the copper bar. the slot in the copper bar I could do on my tiny milling machine though. But other then that so long you have a block of aluminum I don't see the exact need for a mill. Lots of grinding to bevel the plates though. I got a aluminum block, a steel flat bar (5/8 x 2.5) and copper bus bar and even brass tubes. I could try a angle gouge on the top plates to rough it in before precision angle grinding.
But shit, is almost free for me if I do it this way. I wonder how the saw stands up to a aluminum block. If you only do a mm at a time I think it will hold. :o and maybe make a copper epoxy cement by mixing copper powder with epoxy to anchor the tube into place and increase thermal mass, but idk if you want the tube coupled to the block because the gas is coolant and it would be cooling the block but it would be emerging hot on the weld vs not cooling the block as much and directly cooling the weld.
(https://i.imgur.com/2VvflLw.png)
a regular slot and a copper plate to cover the whole surface would work. there is no need unless you are trying to save copper. i cant think of a reason.
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I cut a groove in the big brick with a table saw (1 hour work) and cut the side panels and the two top clamps (aluminum, anodized, 5/16), and ordered a copper 3/8 plate to put on top of it.
The only problem I did not figure out yet is how to make slots in the top jaws, unfortunately it looks like I need to use a router here, if I want recessed bolts, or drill and file for strait slots.
I will probobly file out a oval and then route a recess for the bolt heads at a later time maybe.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYh2bUqPbMc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYh2bUqPbMc)
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This made my day!
John
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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vGVwzw5sC3Q (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vGVwzw5sC3Q)
musician makes more then a welder
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https://youtube.com/shorts/FTYsnpsxcVI?feature=share
I KNEW IT HAD A USE IN THE WELD SHOP
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https://youtube.com/shorts/FTYsnpsxcVI?feature=share
I KNEW IT HAD A USE IN THE WELD SHOP
Some of us wonder what it's like to be able to weld stuff on a bench. For once. |O
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lol what you want is zero gravity
I guess all the paying jobs are in a dirt hole under a pipe? easiest transition ever to or from the armed forces. fox hole ready, and it rains fire either way
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I kind of wonder if there is some old backwood southern car mechanic practice where you dig a reinforced trench under a car so you don't need a lift
for the stupid, don't do this, it does not take much of a hole to kill you and shoring is hard
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I kind of wonder if there is some old backwood southern car mechanic practice where you dig a reinforced trench under a car so you don't need a lift
for the stupid, don't do this, it does not take much of a hole to kill you and shoring is hard
We ummed and ahhed about putting in a service pit, decided that a hoist is the go. They are quite cheap nowadays, just don't cheap out on the concrete footing.
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I thought Men's sheds had an age requirement?
As in "your too young to be in here Sonny"
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I thought Men's sheds had an age requirement?
As in "your too young to be in here Sonny"
What?
What happened?
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I think the micrometer video caused some discontent
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you can put slots and cut tellurium copper fine on a good carbide saw on a table saw, I am almost done with my back purge fixture. I got a 3/8 inch TeCu plate that mounts on top of the 8x4x3 aluminum block that has the slot cut into it. I cut aluminum panels for the side walls and I will put a side wall on the slotted TeCu plate so the gas does not escape from the side (will screw a filed copper block in the ends of the groove). Got a 150 mesh stainless mesh to act as a gas diffuser inside of the aluminum and 3/16 inch holes in the copper plate to pass gas through and something like a 3/16 groove in the copper plate, held together with stainless bolts and I plan to put thermal grease between the plate and the block. Only hard part is filing the bottom of the grooves flat because its a little jagged as careful as you are with the saw, pain in the ass, but flatness is not critical, I just don't want roughness.
If you free hand the block on a bound saw area then you can probobly smooth out the bottom but I just did back and forth slide passes I would rather just use the file for a few hours then fuck around with the saw that much... kinda feel like that might be pushing your luck for some reason. I keep the block im slotting flush up against the guide every pass and advance it a little bit each pass. Never lift it up just move it forward and back and only take like 1/16 of an inch deep each time. Takes a while and probobly hell on the saw but its not hogging IMO, easier then kneeding a pizza
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I managed to get all the gauges for weld inspection from GAL. Everything besides the pipe pit gauge.
I think it will be nice to have test equipment to use with welds other then a wildarizer.
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The foot pedal control is very confusing (i prefer the O/A torch 'distance' heat control method), but it does allow me to get less of a messed up bead on the edge of the metal if I reduce power on the last bit.
Typically you set the welder for the current required to make nice welds and only use the treadle when starting so to blast some heat in so to get to welding heat faster which also saves on Argon.
attempted to butt weld some 1/16 stainless plates at 50 amps with a 1/16th electrode on top of a 1/4 inch copper plate.
High distortion occurs, I am not sure if its possible to weld it without high distortion.
Technique is everything.
For thin plate you needs lots of short stitch beads before even considering runs of any length.
Aim to keep heat build up as low as possible by shifting to another part of the seam and then come back once heat has dissipated.
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well my back purge thing is almost finished I will try it with that, its not pleasant to weld with the sugaring on the other side anyway. I think that fixture is supposed to allow you to practice faster, other then being mandated for some test.
Just need to get my 3/8-24 bolts because I bought 3/8-16 bolts by accident after tapping it to 24. and the gas diffuser needs a flange so it does not leak out the side
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I want like a thermal cam eye patch things like the colonial marines thermal imager so I know when it cools down and when its over heating lol
they need a welding helmet with a Ti in it
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I think the micrometer video caused some discontent
this one? https://youtube.com/shorts/McNjXzCwf-o
or this one? https://youtube.com/shorts/crtdwenwik8
;)
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https://youtube.com/shorts/3dRZPnH_Uhg?feature=share
I wonder if those micrometers almost ruined a contract or something, its a vendetta at this point
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if anyone is curious about weld gauges, I recommend you buy GAL.
I got 1 gauge by riverweld, and its a POS. The hi-lo gauge is like a caliper but it runs like they made a casting for a caliper body. The GAL gauges all run smooth as butter after a cleaning even though they are probobly ancient. Its all stainless steel so I used ultrasonic and then gentle lubrication with silicone oil.
The riverweld is so unpleasant to use I bought a GAL gauge to replace it.
And I tried to stone the body of the gauge, but the problem is the caliper body/block thing. Its very rough inside. Sounds like a chalk board when you use it, even with ultrasonic clenaer and silicone oil and stoning as many surfaces are possible. It might be fixable with lapping compound on some kind of special lap to polish the interior square bore but I am just not going to go there. If I know one thing its don't skimp on test equipment for any trade .
Or maybe a fine diamond file could do it but it would be hard to hold it true IMO. And the edges of the sliding parts of the caliper are not ground true, they ground it so there are like dots every 0.5cm that are sort of flat. It's not even the quality of fowler (which is inferior to mitutoyo and starrett usually). Someone must be standing over the grinder making sure they don't actually do enough passes to make a true flat.
At first I thought it was some kind of feature to work better with welding grit and stuff, but the damn mechanism is too poor. Thats why they cost 20% of the GAL gauges.
But then again you can't even get a decent metal rule from the cheap asses that make the cheap measurement tools.
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made the welding diffuser screen for inside of the block. I bent a 1/16th stainless rod into a rectangle, did a poor weld to join it, and for it into the cavity. I was off by 1mm but its nothing that a bit of silicone sealant wont seal, and I need to fix it into place anyway, so a microbead of silicone wont hurt anything, and I managed to destroy the replacement I made. I don't see how you could get a good seal to a bent rectangle wire structure and a slot without silicone anyway. It would need to be well machined to direct all the gas properly.
To weld the 150 mesh screen on, use a spot welder set to 5J or so. I put maybe 100 welds to join the stainless steel mesh rectangle to the rectangle made out of wire, then go over it with scissors to trim it down, then run over it with a diamond file to get any errant threads and cut them off again.
I dropped mine on top of the gas diffuser support structures.
The hard part is bending the stainless rod, I was never good at bending thin stuff precisely.
To weld the stainless mesh to a irregular surface, put a flat piece of aluminum on it at first and expose the first weld area. Tack it in a few places and its stiff enough to go manually. I am surprised how easy that part was, as usual, bending is the hard part.
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i put the copper plate on with arctic mx5, and used alunox for the bolts that hold it down and silicone dielectric under the flatheads. There was a bit of seepage into the groove but I used a long implement to scrape the thermal grease that got squeezed into the middle from the side. I guess gluing it in was maybe ill thoguht out since its difficult to clean the screen, but I can use a small bottle brush to scrub it. When it gets too soiled from splatter I can just pull it out and put a new on in I guess that fits better.
Kinda wondering if it will start leaking thermal grease into the diffuser once it gets hot but whatever.
First time it gets hot I will pop the sides off and check the groove. Probobly good enough though.
I will check the impedance after it sat for a while, if anything I will tap a thread into the copper top plate for a ground connection.
A better one would have a grease catcher milled into it that would collect speepage maybe.
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if you want to log everything what you did and mistakes, please make your own thread. dont hijack this one.
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woop woop
grave yard police
the engineering details of you trying to purchase a gas tank are fascinating
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You think without police, the world will be in harmony based on the idea that human can think of whats right and wrong (without the need of enforcement nor law) ... make your own country with that socio-system and tell us the outcome within 5-50yrs. Every country in reality got polices since the idea is totally fucked up... that idea only applied in fantasy land..
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the thread/forum is dead, I posted technical engineering details in every post, and you show up complaining that someone is basically leaving papers on an abandoned island with 5 / posts a week if that.
and its gonna stay dead because no one is going to be buying expensive tools and materials during a recession.
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No its not. Its ever evolving probably with cheaper options in the future and novel techniques, proven one that everybody like to follow, not exhaustive try and error reporting log from someone who just got to play with his stick.. ;) And its not a complain, its a reminder.. if you think you can gain ownership of a land or property just because they seemingly abandoned, you are wrong.
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and its gonna stay dead because no one is going to be buying expensive tools and materials during a recession.
Today in Lidl - Parkside welding eqpt in the aisle.
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the thread/forum is dead, I posted technical engineering details in every post, and you show up complaining that someone is basically leaving papers on an abandoned island with 5 / posts a week if that.
and its gonna stay dead because no one is going to be buying expensive tools and materials during a recession.
As I started this thread more or less as a 'resource' list one I fully expected it to be fairly static and like other similar ones throughout the forum just get updated in the first couple of posts as needed.
If you have a project then it is much better to start a thread rather than get it lost in here overt time as it will search better. Some of the WORST threads to find content here are the ongoing rambles making the content largely useless to even attempt to search through later.
Either way your choice to put content here to be lost or start a thread having the first posts pop back up in the list is a good thing but that is a poor reason to post content for contents sake.
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the thread/forum is dead, I posted technical engineering details in every post...
your reply #25 for example could be usefull, but dont derail too much... know what is necessary what is not. if its proven, then we welcome you post, if its in try and error stage, imho it deserves its own place for discussion. i didnt say your every posts are useless... cheers.