Battery pack voltage can be higher than the nominal motor voltage, just don't go ridiculously overboard as that would make duty cycle very small. Also if you use a high-voltage controller, it will have MOSFETs dimensioned for that high voltage, making it a compromise for current handling (given same price and size of semiconductors), yet with low-voltage motor you need a lot of current.
So trying to match the motor and supply/controller voltage ratings is generally a good idea, although you may want to give a small bias towards having a bit of extra voltage available if you want to be sure you can extract all the torque also at higher speeds.
With BLDC motor ratings, the "nominal" voltage tends to mean the input DC voltage to the controller which allows most of the motor performance to be extracted. If you have higher voltage available, then you'll be able to run with the combination of higher motor current with high RPM. This meaning more power available, also means the motor may not be designed to handle such power dissipation continuously, but you don't
have to run the motor outside the specs. Everything depends on the configurability of your controller.
Having some extra voltage means your DC link is running at lower current given the same motor current. (The combination of controller + motor is equivalent to a synchronous buck converter.) Going too far for mismatch, and the DC link capacitors have to see the high current peaks from the high motor current.
With the cheap Chinese motors, nobody knows what the ratings actually are or what the given ratings are supposed to mean. Chances are, the motors are identical. Or, maybe the windings are really configured differently so that a lower voltage rating motor requires higher current to create the same torque; basically fewer turns (current * turns defining torque), larger number of strands in parallel.
In motor design, the sweet spot tends to be large. In a 350W range, you can definitely design a well-performing, efficient motor just as easily to work with 24V, 48V or even maybe 12V or 250V nominal. They all have similar windings, the difference is between the configuration of strands being in series or parallel. Each strand contribute to the magnetic field according to the current flowing through it.
So there is no easy answer which is best, but if you already have a controller in mind, that obviously sets the maximum pack voltage in stone. Seeing 12s pack specified, minimum pack voltage at 3V/cell would be at 36.0V, so a 36V motor would sound like a sane choice, you get the rated performance with an empty pack, so during normal use you have a bit of excess voltage, but not too much for a mismatched design.
(Looking at the product images of the Chinese VESC clone, it's kind of cute how they are cooling the MOSFETs through the package plastic yet they would have the copper pours with shitload of thermal vias right next, but they decided not to extend the heatsink coupling to that area

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