(Mention and give credit to"q12" if you are doing this project and post it on internet)
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This is an image from internet - not mine.
On my caliper, I peeled the plastic cover a bit in the margin, (the unused side), and the copper shapes are exactly like this image i put here from internet. Excellent.
The copper shapes are T's and I's. No connection between them. Just 'floating' shapes delimited by space/gap.
the fixed plate circuit color is the brown one.
the mobile plate circuit color is the green one.
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The model circuit is like this: copper + space + copper + space +etc.
1. My plan, how i see it from my intuition so far, is to unite Not in a straight line, but following the contour of the space between the copper shape. And 'voila', i extended it like that.
2. If by some motif i can't cut the board exactly in the contour of the copper shape, I cut it in straight line, and where the gap between fiberglass pcb boards unite, I stick/glue a shaped copper foil between the 2 boards. I will reinforce underneath pcb's with a metal plate the 2 boards anyway.
Exactly for this reason, is best to experiment with this juncture first, before using the full scratched length of the plates - to avoid any errors.
3. Make the desired length board from a non conductive material. Plastic, wood, fiberglass, glass, cement, molded resin, stone, rubber etc. Glue the cut copper shapes into their positions onto the isolator board. Stick a band of scotch over all this top surface for protection. A couple rows of scotch for being sure. It can be matte scotch, not transparent, either. The capacitance field will not be interrupted.
4. Copper erosion with an acid, the old way of etching ! I almost forgot about it. For those who don't know, you paint on top of the finish part you want to remain with a acid resistant paint, but easy to remove after. We used special markers and before them, fingernail paint which we remove it with diluant or benzin/gasoline. Submerge the PCB plate into a bath of acid and check from time to time until you see the white textolite surface underneath copper. Then is etched. Remove the paint to expose the copper trace that remained. (we used sometime fine sand paper and slightly remove the paint).
Merge more plates together using method 1 or 2 described here.
"I'm not sure how you will make them at home with required accuracy."
I am an artist by trade (digital and traditional painter). Patience is a requirement in my work. I have plenty. Well, I did some sort of fine resolution modifications in my past and I am confident. Using a simple needle to do the scratching(if using copper plated PCB boards), it will give very good results, i am sure. But it will take a LOT of time!
Another idea is to buy some gold thin foil (used in orthodox iconography in this parts), and shape the required elements and glue them.
Of course, testing all the time, if it works and how it works. Making 1-2 cm length in the start until getting some results. If the results are ok, proceed to making the full length. Experimenting will take 1 week to 1 month or several months maybe, but actual building the full length will take a couple of days. Is how i predict it so far.
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