PCB's arrived yesterday or within 2 weeks from moment of ordering. A nice supplier (printed.cz) which I'd like to recommend.
Here is the main board where is located all circuit from Sheet 1 to 4 namely input bridge rectifier and capacitors, power pre-regulator, power post-regulator (CV and CC), bias supply pre-regulator and LDOs, OCP, CC/CV indicators and isolated sync for pre-regulators. That is a functional analog part of the PSU. On the same board is also located digital part that is used to communicate with MCU board via SPI. That mean DAC, ADC and I/O expander.
PCB's arrived yesterday or within 2 weeks from moment of ordering. A nice supplier (printed.cz) which I'd like to recommend.
Here is the main board where is located all circuit from Sheet 1 to 4 namely input bridge rectifier and capacitors, power pre-regulator, power post-regulator (CV and CC), bias supply pre-regulator and LDOs, OCP, CC/CV indicators and isolated sync for pre-regulators. That is a functional analog part of the PSU. On the same board is also located digital part that is used to communicate with MCU board via SPI. That mean DAC, ADC and I/O expander.
Nice work, and it is so detail. mark+
For PCB supplier -printed.cz, you mentioned, How much you cost for your pcb like above?
Bebo
PCB's arrived yesterday or within 2 weeks from moment of ordering. A nice supplier (printed.cz) which I'd like to recommend.
Here is the main board where is located all circuit from Sheet 1 to 4 namely input bridge rectifier and capacitors, power pre-regulator, power post-regulator (CV and CC), bias supply pre-regulator and LDOs, OCP, CC/CV indicators and isolated sync for pre-regulators. That is a functional analog part of the PSU. On the same board is also located digital part that is used to communicate with MCU board via SPI. That mean DAC, ADC and I/O expander.
Nice work, and it is so detail. mark+
For PCB supplier -printed.cz, you mentioned, How much you cost for your pcb like above?
BeboWe use printed.cz as well. They have an instant qoute system which is very close to reality. See: http://www.printed.cz/eng/shop
All in all very nice people.
The one I don't like at all is C15.
This requires to have R44 and C17, to have quite some voltage feedback as well.
That's not what we hear
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/pcbway-mini-review/
and for whatever reason people sponsoring pcbway with the /e usually don't have that many posts and strangely enough they all subscribed around the same time.
There was another one but used /L at the end, so maybe the /e are all the same sales person and the /L gave up trying here.
Then again, maybe you are legit, we'll see.
yes,both www.pcbway.com and www.pcbway.com/e are OK and right for pcbway. Suffix (like /e,/L) is just a recognition for their sales people.
Low side current monitoring is not a principle problem. Auto zero OPs are generally slow, so it would be very difficult to get a bandwith in the 100s of kHz at something like 80 times gain. The simple solution is to bypass the amplifier for the fast part, very similar to the way it is done for voltage regulation. This would mean having an extra R C combination from the upper end of the shunt to the CC regulation amplifier. So it might be enough to have to components air wired and still use the old PCB. To get the right values a few simulation runs would be needed.
My initial guess would be something like 220 Ohms and 220 nF for the extra RC combination, and somthing like 100 K and 10 pF for R44 and C17. The other point is to have a capacitor or two (e.g. 470 nF film type or ceramic and 100-470 µF low ESR electrolytic) at the output. Measurements will show how much capacitance is needed to get the CC mode stable even with Inductive load.
With this extra Bypass the AZ amplifier can be slow - so the LTC2057 is no problem, just a rather expensive version in a case where a higher voltage is not needed.
That's going to be a nice case when it's done! good job!
Advice: don't paint the heatsink black, that's a fallacy, and might actually degrade the heat sink performance. Black paint is putting a continuous barrier of something non-metallic over the surface (acrylic, latex, whatever your paint is made of)... it will be like putting a blanket over your heatsink.
Black heatsinks are actually anodized, which is a process where they increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer, and color it with metallic salts (nickel acetate, cobalt acetate, etc). This forms an outer protective layer that is also thermally conductive, unlike a basic black paint.
You want your heatsink to be able to conduct the heat away from the aluminum into the surrounding air. If you paint it, then the heat has to cross that painted boundary, and it will be less effective. Most heat transfer is via conduction, not radiation, so painting it black is likely to lose more in its conductivity then you gain in its radiative ability, and the net effect is negative, not positive.
Nice case! How much did shipping cost?
20EUR by DHL
EDIT: If it is ordered from Audiophonic in France shipment is 8,90EUR (30,40EUR in total incl. VAT).
A thin layer of black paint has absoluetly no significant thermal resistanve, but adds some to the radiative thermal dissipation togethet with the convective which is by far the largest part.
So by all means, paint it black and reduce C/W somewhat but dont expect any miracles.
Most heat transfer is via conduction, not radiation
Advice: don't paint the heatsink black, that's a fallacy, and might actually degrade the heat sink performance.