headphone socket: which one is right for me?

[exe]

Hey forum,

I'm making a portable device with a speaker and a headphone socket (3.5mm, stereo). I'd like speaker to go mute if I plug headphone.

My questions are:
- which socket is the right one?
- can I make it compatible with headphones with mic?
- Do I need a TRS or TRRS socket? I don't plan to use mic

For example, I consider is this socket: https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/XKBConnection-PJ_327STSMT/C319103 . But even then I don't understand how I should wire it.

[A.Huggy]

You linked a TRS jack which will work fine for headphones without a mic which usually have a TRS plug.
Headsets with a mic that use a TRRS plug will still work for listening, but the mic will not work. If your device does not need an audio input line for the mic, you should be fine with the TRS port you linked.


The wiring of TRS and TRRS jacks:

[Whales]

TRRS is backwards compatible with TRS (if you wire it correctly).    If you don't care about mics (or inline buttons on earbud cords) then just TRS is enough.

[exe]

Thank you very much for answers!

Question about the part I linked. What is the function of contact 4? I can't figure it. Is it connected sleeve (same as contact 3), is it a switch?

[Whales]

Is it this one?



Yeah pin 4 is goofy, I have not seen that before.

It's almost a "normally open" pin that would short to pin 3 when a connector is inserted, but it's using the drawing style of jack contacts (>) rather than a NO/NC pin (▶).  I think it is a normal jack contact and the big rectangular ring needs to be moved left in the drawing.

FWIW I've had nightmares looking through incomplete & confusing TRRS datasheets before, I think you're supposed to negotiate with the OEM to make sense of any of it all.

[exe]

I got a reply from lcsc, they said: "According to the circuit diagram in the datasheet, pin 4 is the normally closed switch contact pin for plug insertion detection.".

> I've had nightmares looking through incomplete & confusing TRRS datasheets before, I think you're supposed to negotiate with the OEM to make sense of any of it all.

I feel that too. Something tells me I may end up with re-spinning the board....