Talking about Watts for a LED driver is confusing the entire issue.
You need to know:
What is the Vf (forward voltage) of ONE of your LEDs at If (the forward drive current you plan to drive it at).
Next you need to decide how many LEDs you will connect together and whether you connect them all in series or some kind of parallel series matrix.
e.g. 1 you have 10 LEDs you connect them all in series then the Vf will be 10X a single LED's and you drive at If (the current of a single LED).
e.g. 2 you connect 2 strings in parallel, each string has 5 LEDs in series. Your Vf will be 5X a single LED's and you drive a 2X If (since the current will 'roughly' split 1/2 into one string and 1/2 in the other string -> giving each string If.
The above allows you to get an idea of your total Vf (for the 10 LED wiring configuration you plan to use), lets call it Tot_Vf and your total If, lets call it Tot_If. This then allows you to look at whether you need a Buck driver or Boost driver (and whether it can handle the Tot_Vf and Tot_If). Next your input voltage range and whether it meets the specs of the driver you are looking to use.
The ONLY need for you to know the total Watts (and yes, it would be around 100W for ten 10W nominal LEDs) is to determine the efficiency losses in the driver (say the drive runs at 90% efficiency, with 100W you would have 100W/0.9 = 111W at the input, meaning 11W of thermal losses in the driver - YES, it will need a heatsink and YES, it will need to be rated to be able to dissipate 11W).
Designing/choosing a LED driver that can handle 100W of load (RELIABLY) requires you to determine the best configuration of LED load (Tot_Vf an Tot_If) AND your available input voltage range. It is somewhat of an iterative process. At that power level you do need some decent specs for the driver to determine its safe operating parameters (max input voltage, min input voltage, max input current, efficiency at operating input voltage and current, maximum thermal dissipation etc).
cheers,
george.