Can I use different amperage fuses for a blender?

[JT101]

Hello everyone

I have a small Kenwood blender with a thermal fuse that blew.

The specification is a pigtail ceramic 3NT 1.6A x 250V fuse.  The only one I could find is Schurter 8020.0516.PT

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Schurter/8020.0516.PT?qs=wYWahoWfBn9OGUlaTs9O0Q%3D%3D

This works out at £12.34 inc postage.  I could easily buy a new blender for that. 

I can much more easily find a 1.5A x 250V or 2A x 250V fuses on Ebay for a couple of pounds.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304416666061?itmmeta=01HY68JVTB36CPPF2TMYPA6DSD&hash=item46e0a5b1cd:g:Jo8AAOSwHYVaYc3S&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Bz8qAv6s%2FSSmt9cYc2PfYfwue6a9Oe9tw6cYoPl33BpjaEo2w9PkZ%2BY6efXnuy5dptoXgSw%2BAfihHZ3t7ArOYE8OxmaYohAIaVM5h25876ejTNifYje4kn4kTU7U%2BXyeotSFSGY5bAXv7tz7Asop2GR6oaVRkDEHjglQxeVl0xNoPObKylNNOCUuJVo0bRvtbwRwtYL7G8koQfSpUf09nx3AJKFCReVzHhrDArmotIby9%2BBoUZVwmIRlcqIHEHEebu6MJ9%2B%2BHhaBRC6EntM7pzqP3I%2FdYEwVgX4CMOkeaWQ%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrr3LyPFj

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300613000180?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Da45749495caf4d55a8d28acfe3e0db1f%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D126435783772%26itm%3D300613000180%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DPanasonic&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042



Could I use either of these safely, and if so what could happen?  I am assuming the 1.5A would simply blow sooner when the motor is overloaded, whereas the 2A might be less safe and allow the windings to overheat?

Thanks

[indeterminate]

Just use the 1.5A fuse
That is 360W , it is not going to blow unless there is a problem.

[fzabkar]

"1.5a Pico fuse 250v F1.5a 250v Axial Quick Blow Fast"

This fast fuse is not a suitable replacement for a thermal fuse.

[inse]

Please check what kind of fuse you need for your blender.
A thermal fuse that prevents overheating or a electrical fuse that prevents overcurrent.
Can you post a photo?

[amyk]

Just use the 1.5A fuse
That is 360W , it is not going to blow unless there is a problem.

You need a slow-blow fuse. Motors tend to have very high inrush currents.

Also, fuses are quite imprecise in general, so 1.6A vs 1.5A is unlikely to be a meaningful difference.

[JT101]

Here you go.  As I said, writing on fuse says "3NT 1.6A x 250V"

Any ideas where I can get a replacement cheaply

Thanks

[wasedadoc]

Thermal fuses are usually marked with a temperature not a current rating.  The fuse in the photo looks like a glass overcurrent one, not a thermal fuse. But the connection method, ie not soldered, is certainly what is needed for a thermal fuse.  Is there a possibility that an original thermal fuse has been replaced by an overcurrent one?

[Ian.M]

The O.P. has misidentified the thermal fuse location.   In the first photo there is a black heatshrink covered object the size and shape of an axial thermal fuse, cable-tied to one of the stator windings.   The ceramic, probably sand-filled, 1.6A Time-lag axial fuse isn't in thermal contact with the windings, and has what appears to be a factory original crimp on both leads so is most likely what it is and is solely for over-current protection. 

Why would the factory want to use solder when they are already set up to crimp?   
Fit a 1.5A Time-lag (T) axial fuse, get a spare, write the original fuse specs inside the housing, and call it good unless the new fuse doesn't hold.

[perieanuo]

that's not a thermal fuse, it's a standard current fuse. replace it with any correspondent one.

[themadhippy]

that's not a thermal fuse, it's a standard current fuse.

To be pedantic its not a magnetic device so it must be a thermal device

[Gyro]

As that's a standard fuse rather than a thermal one, the replacement can safely be soldered rather than crimped, reinforce the joints with adhesive lined heatshrink. It's also sometimes even possible to pull the crimped-on end caps off the ends of the existing fuse and re-fit them to a standard 20mm ceramic type (ensure that the ends are still a tight fit and again secure with heatshrink).

The (lack of) mechanical termination of that motor winding in a high vibration environment is sheer class!    Make sure that you secure the fibreglass sleeve back over the fuse and enameled wire with a cable tie to avoid shorts.

[inse]

Thermal fuses are usually marked with a temperature not a current rating.  The fuse in the photo looks like a glass overcurrent one, not a thermal fuse. But the connection method, ie not soldered, is certainly what is needed for a thermal fuse.  Is there a possibility that an original thermal fuse has been replaced by an overcurrent one?

Being pedantic, too: thermal fuses also have a voltage and current rating.
🤓

[JT101]

It was oriignally in a piece of heat shrink, and zip tied to the lower part of the windings.  I had to cut it open and free it to see what it was.  Does that make a difference?  I am inclined to agree with you, that it' s an over current fuse based on what you and others have said

[JT101]

How about these?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143372896014?itmmeta=01HYBS9JBDG03APSFSJ88EZMVB&hash=item2161b0c70e:g:ZRIAAOSwZi5drvXo&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8BSrQZDuEl6QMFKa1TXezlxhHaxmSQIHm3b%2F3%2BOytFZsXDcu3PB0QhuYTGQmcEvDwMSCDhNp%2BgzkqjNIIuspNeCDM7AE%2FnbmqK0GG1E0eTGHpNrSLqpRPqUEG6huMu8UMzIXfaTZcVe4zoFCgBUHBGQZBm%2BVsCvATESmwx6KfiOfVOAtnIhy3ttUQWqRQDwmwA2qE%2BDw8%2BMG2TTOwmd5r%2F1SmKLklA5lvsJilcv6JWzmW9IVyNTlQUZ5Qi4dHjJE%2BhJxiFysvMqfQqA12UNial5pdDyKu0Ue8hEeqUFMGeuluK246L9TuF%2F76exyfUKHCA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM6KWm-fJj

[Gyro]

Still daylight robbery but at least PCArena purchase their stock from RS, Farnell etc. so you can be more confident in genuine items...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364770625493

I'm never that happy about 10mm fuses for mains use, but at least it's ceramic and the [fault] current will be limited by the resistance of the motor. You might want to buy a spare because it most likely blew due to excessive mechanical load.


P.S. Don't forget the heatshrink. Iirc, Lidl had some useful packs the other week.