Connector wire plug fix for my amplifier

[shueardm]

Hi all,
I was mucking around with my amplifier trying to fix something but of course broke something else.
I presumed the little green plug pulled out with wires intact but that wasn't the case, the wires came out and I dont know how the plug actually works in order to return the wires properly.
Heck I don't even know what the plug type is called 

Here is some photos, I'd be awfully grateful for help

https://imgur.com/gallery/JOOtkp6

[autotel]

I don't have much of an idea. However, since there are two cables named "key" and one named different, perhaps try facing the side of the cable which has a mark to the MG?
Is there a risk of breaking it involved? Because there are two sides to try only, right?

[Ian.M]

Post good closeup photos of both sides of the whole button board.  Also, what's on the other end of the pair of wires?

It should be possible for us to figure it out if you give us enough info.   

[shueardm]

Apologies for not knowing how this board handles quote replies, I can't work that out just yet?

In regards to extreme close ups, my phone isn't doing so well, maybe time for a new one.
I can tell you on the other side it's just solder joints but the side you can see there are holes for the wire to fit through but then you have to clamp the green plug over it as well and I can't do that with the wires in the holes.

[shueardm]

Also, what's on the other end of the pair of wires?

There we go I can quote.

On the other end of the wires it's connected behind the display LCD, it's only going to risk another mistake by trying to get to it.

[shueardm]

If anyone knows what type of connector they are called, YouTube might help me.

[shueardm]

Is there a risk of breaking it involved? Because there are two sides to try only, right?

Only shortening it if I fail and have to cut again, there should be enough slack for another go or two. ( fingers crossed )
Not sure I understand what you mean by two sides?

This one one of those things hard to explain

[Ian.M]

"behind the display LCD" sounds like it could well be going to a MCU that also controls the LCD.     I have a theory that there are also resistors on the button board and it is a resistor/button ladder so the MCU can read which button is pressed using an ADC input.
 
Update this topic when you have posted the button board closeups, of both the button and solder sides I requested.

Unfortunately many types of IDC (insulation displacement) connectors are designed to be assembled *ONCE* using factory tooling. Its generally possible to hand assemble a fresh connector, but if you've pulled the wires out, odds are the contacts have been distorted, and it may not be reliable, so you may be forced to remove the connector and solder the wires direct to the board then apply a dab of neutral cure silicone or other suitable elastomer adhesive on the other side where the wires go through the board for strain relief.

[shueardm]

Okay I will try and get better pics tomorrow, it's night time and flash inst helping and no flash means no detail.
I'm surprised you knew immediately it was a button board, I have come to the right place

[shueardm]

Was able to remove the LCD
Heres what I can show, is that what you need? I cant do real close, it just wont focus.
https://imgur.com/a/wmvkOkN

[Ian.M]

There are resistors on the track side of the button board, but it looks like there are TWO resistor ladders, not one, so you need to get the wiring right when you reconnect it.  As the pins are marked the same at both ends, that shouldn't be a problem.

Please post some photos of the button board disassembled green connector and its contacts from different angles, as close-up as you can without going out of focus, so we can see if you've got any chance of reassembling it or whether it would be better to desolder it and solder the wires straight to the board.

[shueardm]

Please post some photos of the button board disassembled green connector and its contacts from different angles, as close-up as you can

Enter my daughters iPhone with 2 cameras
https://imgur.com/a/xiEHebE

[Ian.M]

We also need to see the contacts on the board that the green shell fits over, also from several angles.

[shueardm]

Sorry I should have guessed, added images to the link above.

[NickZA]

Looks like an Insulation Displacement Connector:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/03DB-8M-LF/455-1071-ND/527296

[coromonadalix]

Beat me to it  loll   and the wire are crimped into it,   why dont you solder the wire direclty on the pcb ??  they must be long enough ?

In UK ?  damn 0 in stock
https://www.enrgtech.co.uk/buy/product/ET11381573/03DB-8M-LF-

Maybe some ebay and Aliexpress  if you search them ??

[shueardm]

Looks like an Insulation Displacement Connector:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/03DB-8M-LF/455-1071-ND/527296

Indeed it does, nice name.
No hope of getting one in Australia though,

[shueardm]

  why dont you solder the wire direclty on the pcb ??  they must be long enough ?

Yeah, I can try,. my eyes aren't as good as they used to be and it's particularly small

[coromonadalix]

digikey .in   ??
https://www.digikey.in/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/03DB-8M-LF/455-1071-ND/

[Ian.M]

Its an IDC connector as I and NickZA noted, not a crimped connector.

The green shell fits with the square holes over the contacts, down to the board, and the open side facing the pin name markings. The wires press flat into the open side of the shell, and into the open sides of the contacts and the narrow slots in the contacts pierce the insulation and make contact with the cores.  The insulation is held by the little fingers at the tip of the green shell. Its intended to be assembled once, with some sort of parallel jaw tooling with a shaped anvil to support the individual wires while pushing them home, probably before soldering to the board, and is intended to be non-removable.

Disconnect the green connector on the other end of the wire from the white shelled right-angle header on the display board so you can work on the wire to button board connection without worrying about protecting the fragile display.  Wiggle it out gently - don't rip it off!

You *may* be able to reassemble it by putting the shell back in place then clamping that end of the board in a vice so the shell is supported by the top of the vice jaw, and pressing each wire back into place (after trimming the wire end to remove any section with damaged insulation), using some sort of flat ended metal tool not much thinner than the slots in the shell, but if the contacts have been bent or stretched even slightly, you may not get a reliable contact.   Check each connection with a continuity tester before you plug it back into the display board.    If you cant get a reliable connection on all the wires, you'll have to desolder the contacts, and solder the wires through the same holes direct to the board, discarding the contacts and shell.

[shueardm]

digikey .in   ??
https://www.digikey.in/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/03DB-8M-LF/455-1071-ND/

India? lol
No Australia

16 weeks lead time on them too.

It seems that it's a direct pressed to board type, meaning, it can't be pressed by hand?

[coromonadalix]

Normally theses connectors are "permanent"  thats why ive told you the solder way of repairing it ...  and add a dab of hot glue to reinforce them ?

no it need a special tool to crimp them

[shueardm]

Thanks guys. Out with the solder.
I should definitely remove the pins first?
Also, I obviously need to strip the wire , it's very thin, hope my stripper can do it.

[coromonadalix]

or use a small wire or part cutter on the back side and try to pull gently on the wire insulator  or use a small exacto blade  ??  genlty skin the wire ?

[Ian.M]

I'm sure it can be hand assembled if properly supported, with an appropriate punch-down tool.  A thick-ended flat bladed screwdriver may be good enough, but ideally the tool should have a rounded groove the full length of the end to support the insulation, and a notch to clear the fingers in the shell that grip the insulation.  Its probably not worth the effort to make a decent punch-down tool for it v.s. soldering the wires direct to the board.

Be careful if using a knife blade to strip the wires - its far too easy to accidentally notch the core and if you do so the wire tends to snap at the weak spot if its bent after soldering.