Fluke 8060a "repair"/refurbish

[staze]

All,

Just got a Fluke 8060a in the mail that was reported as occasionally working. Seems to work just fine to me, other than being extremely dirty, and one of the battery connection wires being a bit crushed (easy enough to replace).

Two questions, though:

1. Should the COM jack rotate? the metal tube that's riveted to the board is not soldered down (guessing this just broke over time). Assuming I should solder this back in place, rather than let it rotate and make a bad connection).

2. Anyone know a source for replacement tactile buttons? These seem to have been chewed on by a small animal, so the db, continuity, and rel button all have chew marks in them. Anyone know if drtaylor still has some laying around? =)

Other than that, just plan to follow Mr Modemhead's guide to clean this sucker up... as it is very grimy (and guessing there are a bunch of small particles of solder around in it from the com jack.

Thanks!

p.s. oh, and a replacement acrylic (guessing it's lexan or the like) front cover for the LCD would be awesome if someone knows where to get one of those too. This one is pretty scratched up.

[xwarp]

Ebay is probably going to be your best bet for those parts. Maybe keep an eye out for a parts unit.

One thing you will want to look at is replacing the 10 electrolytic caps on it and while they are out, clean those areas with IPA.

I picked up one of these a couple of weeks ago and although it was in mint shape, a couple of caps had leaked slightly and there was a little bit of corrosion near the d.c. power jack and near the 40 pin dip socket.

Mouser has great prices on caps.

Also be careful of the elastomeric connectors in the display assembly, especially the one between the lcd and the display control board, (see my thread from this morning about it). It can be touchy.

The more I play with the 8060a, the more I like it over the 87.

[staze]

No doubt, since the 87 I bought for parts has a bad main IC.

I did notice some corrosion on the DC jack. Haven't seen anything on the lytics yet. But will certainly replace them. Building an epic digikey/mouser order at this point for all the crap I'm working on.

Notice anything with the low battery warning coming on when the battery is clearly fine? Figured that was due to the crushed positive battery wire.

Figured on the parts. May not care once I clean it up... But if drtaylor has anymore parts in his garage.

[staze]

What about the com jack? Also, any chance you have a BOM from mouser on the caps? Save me some time hunting.

[xwarp]

I haven't seen Dr. Taylor on for a while.

You will definitely want to replace those caps.

Mouser has the 40 pin dip sockets for $4.32, which is a great price depending on the condition of the socket that is in there.

Check this page for more info on the damage that electrolyte causes:

http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/

[xwarp]

What about the com jack? Also, any chance you have a BOM from mouser on the caps? Save me some time hunting.

I would remove solder, clean it up and re-solder it.

[retiredcaps]

1. Should the COM jack rotate?

Absolutely not.  Mine is soldered in tight and doesn't move at all.

[staze]

Figured. Will certainly re-solder both tube, and back rivet.

[lowimpedance]

From memory I believe drtaylor mentioned that his wife had thrown out most of his spare parts.

[fluxcapacitor]

the display lens part number is 650655 .

http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/fluke/displays/fluke-8020a-7601-kit.jpg

[staze]

the display lens part number is 650655 .

http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/fluke/displays/fluke-8020a-7601-kit.jpg

cool. thanks. wonder what it would cost to get a piece of sapphire glass cut to that size... =P

[TVman]

.
Anyone know a source for replacement tactile buttons?

Ebay.
I bought a 100 for $1.00. (And yes they do work)
Any pictures to show?

[switcher]

Does anyone have any sources for the little rubber feet for 8060As?
TIA.