Author Topic: Help! ILX Lightwave LDT-5525 (PCB cannot be removed from custom aluminium case)  (Read 1213 times)

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Offline ramonTopic starter

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Hi,

I will need help to remove this PCB from the custom aluminium case.

The case seems like a custom aluminium profile. I already dissasembled everything: front and rear panel.
There are only 4 screws (which I already removed) that connects the transformer to the PCB and the bottom case.

Those 4 screws are the only screws between bottom case and PCB, there are NO screws hidden behind the rubber foots.

I have tried everything. And I think there are only two options:

  1) I am not strong enought to slide/remove the PCB from the aluminium profile,
  2) or I am not using the right tool

Does anyone knows If I need some custom tool for removing the PCB?

 

Offline coromonadalix

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you have at least 4 hidden screws on your pcb  preventing you to slide the board, you have 4 hex studs punched in the aluminum case,  maybe the screws are silliconed  or something hides them from your view ... take an top view photo
 

Offline ramonTopic starter

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Thanks but those are the 4 transformer screws, that I already removed. There are no any other screws.
 

Offline ramonTopic starter

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And they are not glued, as I can 'lift' the transformer and they are not attached to the hex studs. But I cannot slide the PCB even a milimeter.
 

Offline coromonadalix

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then you should be able to slide it in the grooves ... not pull it
 

Offline ChrisLX200

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It's just tight, and the rough sides of the PCB can gall and stick in the grooves of the alloy extrusion. You need to apply adequate pressure to release and push it out. Don't try hammering it out as it will likely split - steady pressure is what is needed.
 

Offline ramonTopic starter

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Thanks to all, I was able to remove the PCB.

The aluminium base should be clamped or placed over a non-slippery surface. It is better to put the case in elevated place to apply pressure with the heigh of the body. It is important to apply pressure on the same direction as the side rail (without pressing down into the bottom, otherwise it will not move). Also I found it was better to apply pressure only in one point in the middle of PCB (than with two fingers on both sides).

The fix was easy. Two red tantalum capacitors '1.5 25' (C2 and C4A) burned. I think they are only used for the fan.
Maybe they burned on boot-up because the fan has so much dust. I replaced them with two miniature 4.7uF 50V electrolytic.
 


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