Modifying a voltage stabilizer's fuse

[marhuum]

Has anyone modified or hacked a 1 kW voltage stabilizer (stavol) to have circuit breaker or kit-kat fuse replacing the glass-tube one?

The 1 kW stabilizer should be rated real as ~720 W, it's used for washing machine 530 W if being used simple without water heater utilizing; which'd never be so since the hot water set is not assembled.

So this when is washing sometime breaking the stavol's 5 A fuse, perhaps in every ~9-10 complete washing cycles or so,
and after the fuse being renewed then washer is turned on, which looks fine normal, and gets started for a new cycle, in few seconds it'll blow the fuse again, which's all reason of the attempt

How to do so correctly if it's viable, safe and reliable enough, and what actually is the faulty part or system causing fuse blown in timely such described
Thanks in advance

[golden_labels]

(⚠☠🔥)

The fuse blows for a reason: the stabilizer is being overloaded.

Remember that inductive loads, like a washing machine motor, also draw reactive power. It’s not being consumed by the device, but the current still goes back and forth through the stabilizer. On top of that, electric motors can draw large currents while stalled. That  also hits the stabilizer.

I do understand you may have little money to spend, but I implore you: rethink that. If something catches fire, you’ll lose home or — worse — health.

(⚠☠🔥)

That said, a 5 A circuit breaker with B characteristic will work. They’re in $15–25 range. The terminals generally take solid wire in 1–2 mm² range (14–17 AWG). Ignoring that will give a loose connection, even if it may appear to be ok at first.

If you observed that the fuse blows almost instantly after being reset, let things cool down before turning them again. It’s better to redo laundry than have your laundry burn.

[marhuum]

Thoght on increse to 7A fuse;

how OK is it to the motor ?

[Whales]

The fuse blows for a reason: the stabilizer is being overloaded.

Do NOT change the fuse to a larger value.  The fuse blowing is a symptom, not a cause.  The fuse is trying to protect your life, do not ignore its inconvenient message.

it's used for washing machine 530 W

That wattage number has a lot of caveats, including (but not limited to):
(1) Peak vs average power
(2) Reactive vs real power
(3) Induction motors drawing more current when mains voltage sags.

It is very likely that your washing machine is blowing the fuse on your stabiliser.

How to do so correctly if it's viable, safe and reliable enough

Replacing a fuse with a breaker is possible to do, BUT, breakers are only rated to a certain number of trips and then need replacing anyway.  Your actual problem is not the fuse, the fuse is your last line of defence.