I tried desoldering it and that didnt help. When I desoldered it, I realized that there was a hidden trace under it. That means that the transistors base and collector are connected together and emitter goes to the blob.
OK, the wiring means they are in fact using the B-E junction as diode, but connected the collector too to allow a greater current to flow. If desoldering didn't help, there must be another fault.
Im now thinking more about the caps surrounding the blob. If I meassure a voltage across them, its not the same as on the working meter.
Comparing voltages is a good idea to find out possible locations of a fault, but oftentimes wrong voltages on a cap are not caused by the cap itself, but by the surrounding elements. The interesting parameters of a cap are its capacitance (which might be difficult to measure in-circuit) and, especially for electrolytics, its ESR (which usually measures fine even in-circuit).
Also the charging of the big cap seems to be messed up. On the broken one it charges to 60mV and starts again, on the working one the cap voltag slowly rises to 7V and than is slowly dropped.
Around 7V is the typical operating voltage of ICL7106 based meter designs. The reference section in that chip is often co-used as linear regulator, which will result in 7V output voltage. You likely find similarities around the blob to schematics of the garden variety 7106 meters, but it might also be an entirely different design. If it is a bypass cap for the operating voltage, everything is that meter is going haywire if it doesn't come up above 6 volts. Check the cap for shorts (might indeed the fault of the cap), but if it is not shorted out, check the resistors around it for being way too high. Measuring resistors in-circuit usually results in too low garbage values, but nearly never results in too high values. If some resistor that *should* charge the cap is burnt, it will be orders of magnitude too high. This can oftentimes be detected in-circuit.
There is 224J100 written on the cap. I suppose thats 224J and 100V, am I right? How do I find replacement for it, Ive never seen cap markings in Joules... Neither my local shops seem to have caps in joules.
That's not how to read that marking. 224 is the capacitance, in picofarads, encoded like in SMD resistors, so the third digit is the number of zeroes. This makes it a 220000pF cap (aka 220nF or 0.22µF). J encodes the tolerance and indicates +/- 5%, and you are correct about the 100 being the maximum voltage of that cap.