Whoa, someone else rewinding a P4500 toroid ?
I just recently found the service manual too, and decided to verify idle current properly and run some high power tests. Decided to check here just for fun; my unit is wired for Canadian / US 120V mains so my information may or may not be useful.
Around 2013 I rewound both secondary layers to repair mechanical damage - the toroid clamp bolt worked itself loose and the thing banged around in the case for who knows how long, severing both secondaries. Primary was luckily intact. I vaguely remember getting a quote of about 4-500$ for a new transformer, so I instead went the manual rewind route. It took me a long time to work up the motivation and the supplies to do so, but it turned out to be roughly a 2-day job IIRC.
Back then I was a bit careless when taking notes, but I wrote "33 turns sec, double wire" (implying centertap of course, not parallel) for the outer layer, measured as 0.43mm dia (with / without varnish ? no idea). I replaced that with 25ga to be safe.
Inner secondary is 159 turns, that "go around" 3 times around the toroid, so to speak (i.e. "36h around a clock"...) Dia ~ 1.25mm, so I went with 16ga (1.29mm).
I wrote "pri, 2x 200t ??" but that is of course only a guess since I didn't touch that layer. Also I don't recall seeing a thermal fuse, which was possibly hidden under the paper wrapping of the primary.
I used a poor-man's version of a shuttle : I took a bike rim, split in one place, measured + rolled the wire onto it, removed the coil by bending inwards both ends of the rim, then folded the coiled wire into a thin oval that just barely fits through the toroid (using a pvc pipe to form a radius at both ends to prevent kinking). Rubber bands at both ends of the "shuttles" to keep them disciplined.
When powered on, at idle, I measure 135VDC on the B+ / B- bus. Filter caps are rated 160V so "it works, mate". I'm fairly confident this is within a few % of specs.
Let me know if you want other measurements or info. If I were to do it again I would get better adhesive tape for the end instead of black e-tape as I did (the clear mylar insulating tape I found was non-adhesive). Other than that, I think it's a viable method for expensive / hard to replace toroids like this with a reasonable number of turns.