Open-T12-Soldering-Station released

[clytle374]

EDIT: I have the following on Tindie if you don't want to have a PCB made and assemble it.
https://www.tindie.com/products/clytle374/open-t12-soldering-station/

https://www.tindie.com/products/clytle374/open-t12-soldering-station-board-only-globalship/


So I did this out of frustration with ordering another Ksger soldering station to find out I had to replace the processor and hack up a couple other things.  So I decided to build my own and share it. Ended up on detouring and building a reflow oven to build it, that is also on my git page.  It uses the same pinouts as the Ksger T12 V3.0 OLD so it runs the great firmware at  https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller without any changes.

https://github.com/clytle374/Open-T12-Soldering-Station

I thought about ordering some extra boards to offer up for sale.  But I really don't want to try and build one again, not sure anyone else would either, so I thought about having them made at someplace jlcpcb as they aren't expensive in quantity and they get many of the parts cheaper.  Any interest out there for that?   

Please ignore the homemade board, homemade solder mask, and learning the reflow oven solder quality.  I was hoping for a working prototype, so it was a success.

And educational comments about the design would be appreciated. 

[clytle374]

Done and working. 

[wasyoungonce]

If the T12-958 Quick station works out with dodgy non STM32 I’d be interested in an Open source PCB. Even if it is an STM32 I’d still be interested.

Cheers

[clytle374]

If the T12-958 Quick station works out with dodgy non STM32 I’d be interested in an Open source PCB. Even if it is an STM32 I’d still be interested.

Cheers

I'm working on getting them out on Tindie.  I think the quicko has some differences. Like being 4 pin, and the connector is in a different location.  Also the display is different for the different versions.  Mine uses a 6 pin SPI.  I intend to have some options for converting them.  Like a whole face unit with a display, front panel, and connector assembled that will fit in the common box.  With options for cords, NTCS, connectors.  Never found the box at an affordable price.     

It's taking a lot of time to include the different options and document it all.  I'm not going to make much money on any of it, just got so pissed off trying to order I decided to do this. I should have the listing live in a week or so. 

For the excellent opensource firmware the STM32 is the way to go from everything I have gathered. 

EDIT: The PCB itself is $25,  everything but the through hole components.   not sure on the other kits yet.  I'm kinda scared how much I spent and haven't added it up yet.

[wasyoungonce]

Yep i know doing projects......always cost more than buying.   But mostly you know your parts are good and design good......cheers

[wasyoungonce]

The 958 Quicko is a 5 pin connector to iron.   Supposedly.  This is a page overview of all their stations

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/2954088/pages/custom-1573143223796.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.multiText_566110574.0

Rdit. Link may not work click on “enter Quecco products catalogue page” link on front page of their site

[slavoy]

Thanks for the project. Will build   

[wasyoungonce]

Yep very Keen as well!

edit: any possibility of fitting PCB rivets to the connector pads?   Even if just on power pads?   Yeah I know not much room there!   Its just It'll increase PCB life thru pulling apart.   Layout looks good.  Plenty room to hand solder.  Many thanks

[clytle374]

The 958 Quicko is a 5 pin connector to iron.   Supposedly.  This is a page overview of all their stations

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/2954088/pages/custom-1573143223796.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.multiText_566110574.0

Rdit. Link may not work click on “enter Quecco products catalogue page” link on front page of their site

Thanks, that link works now.  Very handy chart to have.  Wish it stated if a NTC was present in the handle.  But yes, it appears several do use the 5 pin connector.  Do you know if they plug compatible with the ksger units?

Yep very Keen as well!

edit: any possibility of fitting PCB rivets to the connector pads?   Even if just on power pads?   Yeah I know not much room there!   Its just It'll increase PCB life thru pulling apart.   Layout looks good.  Plenty room to hand solder.  Many thanks

It would be difficult.  I don't think there should be enough stress on the board for that to be an issue.  I can honestly only think of a few places I have seen them used, and seen very few failures on PCBs. 
Most of the footprints were of the hand solder variety.  I milled the prototype PCB and hand built it to prove it worked, I also proved I would NOT be building anymore by hand.

[clytle374]

Thanks for the project. Will build   

Thanks, hope you enjoy it.  I'll have some various parts on tendie sometime soon if you want to go that route.  My main motivation to design it was the firmware from DavidAlfa, I hated to see people having to replace the processor to use it.   

[wasyoungonce]

Wish it stated if a NTC was present in the handle.  But yes, it appears several do use the 5 pin connector.  Do you know if they plug compatible with the ksger units? ...................edit: any possibility of fitting PCB rivets to the connector pads?   Even if just on power pads?   Yeah I know not much room there!   Its just It'll increase PCB life thru pulling apart.   Layout looks good.  Plenty room to hand solder.  Many thanks

I'll know when the station arrives and will update then   But they do state that

"Our handle just compatible with our T12 soldering station. can't be used on any other soldering station. please notice!"   

The link below gives some pics of the handle wiring but not the socket.   If its all too mush Id just replace the controller PCB with your open source PCB and re-wire handle.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003059542690.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.149134c8AHH9Np&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%2414.72%21AU%20%2414.72%21%21%219.80%219.80%21%40210307c017207615068763524e25db%2112000023668357814%21sh%21AU%211851760988%21X#nav-specification

This is a screen shot of a buyer 958 PCB....you cannot see much

edit: ahh here this aligns with the 958 PCB images in the gitbub boards section
https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller/blob/master/Readme_files/boards/T12-958_v2.jpg

under "currently supported controllers", the 958 v2 pcb is supported.   
https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller

Looking at this PCB it looks same nomenclature as your Open source pins and I see: T+/T-/GND/NTC/SLP.   Appears it has NTC

T12-958 v2: Profile compatible with STM32F103. Needs a mod for battery to work.

[slavoy]

I can't open the project files in KiCad 8. It says it was made in version 8.99 xD

[clytle374]

I can't open the project files in KiCad 8. It says it was made in version 8.99 xD

That isn't good, I run Kicad from git source so it's the latest development release.  I can't seem to find anyway to save it in a previous version.  You'll have to use a development release or nightly build to open it. 

[clytle374]

I'll know when the station arrives and will update then   But they do state that

"Our handle just compatible with our T12 soldering station. can't be used on any other soldering station. please notice!"   

The link below gives some pics of the handle wiring but not the socket.   If its all too mush Id just replace the controller PCB with your open source PCB and re-wire handle.

T12-958 v2: Profile compatible with STM32F103. Needs a mod for battery to work.

Looking at that I think it will interchange.  Battery mod is easy.  Thanks, you sorted quite a bit of that out that I gave up on.

[wasyoungonce]

Yeah same here couldn't open project in KICad due to it being created in newer version.   I have latest ver 8.0.3

there's dozens of ver 8.99 releases

https://downloads.kicad.org/kicad/windows/explore/nightlies

Much prefer to run last stable release as 8.0.3.   Sorry for being a pain

[clytle374]

Yeah same here couldn't open project in KICad due to it being created in newer version.   I have latest ver 8.0.3

there's dozens of ver 8.99 releases

https://downloads.kicad.org/kicad/windows/explore/nightlies

Much prefer to run last stable release as 8.0.3.   Sorry for being a pain

No need to apologize, I never even considered that being an issue until now.  I run Gentoo Linux and many installers will tear up my system.  So I've been building many of my programs(kicad, freecad, prusaslicer, sdr++, ect) from Git sources for over a decade, and they can often be ran in place instead of being installed.  Plus it allows me to give back to the OSS community a bit with bug reports, testing, and occasionally being a PITA to developers

When this started it was just a fun diversion that slowly turned into I think I can do better, then to I'm going to do it.  If I had intended to go this far I'd started out at a stable release.  If I roll back I cannot open it either, nor can I 'save as' a previous version.  I assume that any 8.99 would open it.  But I don't see anyway out of this other than wait until the next release of Kicad. Honestly the nightly builds of Kicad are very stable.  I'm not sure if you can pull a flatpack or appimage to open the files without installing it, just be careful not to open and save any existing projects you have or you'll create the problem for yourself too.  Kicad V9 is stated for Mar 2, 2025, ouch.

I've frozen my git version so if I make any updates it won't prolong the problem.  I made an issue about it on the git page.

The schematic is posted and all the PCB fab files are there so it can be cloned if you want to. 

Making windows for the face plates tonight. 

[slavoy]

Thanks for the link. I need to get 8.99 version in order to change the position of the encoder. I would also like to add some mounting holes.
PCBWay asks me about it, I wonder if they are even capable of making this hole with $5 budget option for 5pcbs

[clytle374]

Thanks for the link. I need to get 8.99 version in order to change the position of the encoder. I would also like to add some mounting holes.
PCBWay asks me about it, I wonder if they are even capable of making this hole with $5 budget option for 5pcbs

I'm sure they can make the blank PCB for $5. Wait until you add up the component costs Just curious why you are trying to move the encoder. That broke out edge isn't going anywhere.  The loads of the user using the encoder go to the front panel.  Meant to go back and do something about that, but the ksger board I have only has .3mm of material where mine broke out.

[slavoy]

Just curious why you are trying to move the encoder. That broke out edge isn't going anywhere.  The loads of the user using the encoder go to the front panel.  Meant to go back and do something about that, but the ksger board I have only has .3mm of material where mine broke out.

I plan to make it in a custom enclosure with enough space, so there's no need to leave this hole like that. For this reason, I also want additional mounting holes to ensure the PCB is securely mounted.

Wait until you add up the component costs

I once checked the costs of parts and assembly at PCBWay and... well not interested

[clytle374]

Just curious why you are trying to move the encoder. That broke out edge isn't going anywhere.  The loads of the user using the encoder go to the front panel.  Meant to go back and do something about that, but the ksger board I have only has .3mm of material where mine broke out.

I plan to make it in a custom enclosure with enough space, so there's no need to leave this hole like that. For this reason, I also want additional mounting holes to ensure the PCB is securely mounted.

Wait until you add up the component costs

I once checked the costs of parts and assembly at PCBWay and... well not interested

I went back and forth a bunch on what I should do to make it as useful to people as possible.  I figured it fitting inside the original cases was the best option.

Between the encoder and GX connector, the board is isn't going anywhere.  If you want a solid mount point use the GX connector area for a mount point since I assume you are moving the connector elsewhere.  All the connections are broken out elsewhere on the board.

I plan to sell the "PCB only version" with all the SMD components for $25.  Opamp is included but isn't installed so it's still ROHS for export. It has the connector and pigtail for battery backup included too, power connector and pigtail if wanted. But not installed as I don't do lead free. Cheaper overseas shipping that way.  So it needs a display, encoder, and connector.  Face plate is optional, but doesn't sound like you'd want one. As you can see I'm not going to make much on these and I didn't use cheap parts. Plus $3 goes to the firmware author just to be fair.  That firmware is that makes these stations great anyway.

[slavoy]

And nothing wrong with that my friend 
I am more than happy to use your design and modify it to suit my needs.
Let me know when you get it all sorted, I won't forget to mention it to my viewers 

[wasyoungonce]

I once checked the costs of parts and assembly at PCBWay and... well not interested
…….I plan to sell the "PCB only version" with all the SMD components for $25.  Opamp is included but isn't installed so it's still ROHS for export. It has the connector and pigtail for battery backup included too, power connector and pigtail if wanted. But not installed as I don't do lead free. Cheaper overseas shipping that way.  So it needs a display, encoder, and connector.  Face plate is optional, but doesn't sound like you'd want one. As you can see I'm not going to make much on these and I didn't use cheap parts. Plus $3 goes to the firmware author just to be fair.  That firmware is that makes these stations great anyway.

Face plate definitely.  But it’s more than just firmware. You included jumpers to use differing sensors etc and have done a heap of PCB layout that is an art in itself.  Don’t under sell your efforts.

Looking forward to it. Well done

Cheers

[JohanH]

I forked and manually downgraded the KiCad project to 8.0 (8.0.3) here:

https://github.com/hevanaa/Open-T12-Soldering-Station

Note. Downgrading a kicad project isn't a supported operation, so results cannot be guaranteed. Works for me (TM). No warranty etc.

[clytle374]

I forked and manually downgraded the KiCad project to 8.0 (8.0.3) here:

https://github.com/hevanaa/Open-T12-Soldering-Station

Note. Downgrading a kicad project isn't a supported operation, so results cannot be guaranteed. Works for me (TM). No warranty etc.

How did you downgrade?  I couldn't find a way.
Thanks

[JohanH]

Now this probably only works because the development version hasn't changed much since the stable version. But there could be unknown consequences, even if it seems to work fine at first.

Basically change the following back using a text editor to previous version in the kicad_sch file:

(kicad_sch
               (version 20231120)
               (generator_version "8.0")

Open it with Schematic editor and pray it isn't completely broken. It wasn't this time as the development version hasn't changed much from stable. Change something and save it.

Change the same attributes in the kicad_pcb file with a text editor:

(kicad_pcb
               (version 20240108)
               (generator_version "8.0")

Open it with kicad PCB. It complained about an unknown attribute in "(setup" part, row 44. Delete the attribute (the whole line in this case) with a text editor and open again with PCB editor. Do a small change and save.

The schematic did shuffle around (in the code) and change some labels, so I recommend to take a sharp look at the schematic if there is something odd. I was able to update back and forth from the schematic to the PCB, though.

[clytle374]

Face plate definitely.  But it’s more than just firmware. You included jumpers to use differing sensors etc and have done a heap of PCB layout that is an art in itself.  Don’t under sell your efforts.

Looking forward to it. Well done

Cheers

Thanks, I actually like PCB layout.  I actually enjoyed the project.  But the best hardware is worthless without good code.  Sadly I only write bad code 
I got the first windows machined last night, and the knobs came today.  I found a guy that is building a whole pile of PCBs for kits over the next month and I've sent him unit #0 for torture testing. 

I forked and manually downgraded the KiCad project to 8.0 (8.0.3) here:

https://github.com/hevanaa/Open-T12-Soldering-Station

Note. Downgrading a kicad project isn't a supported operation, so results cannot be guaranteed. Works for me (TM). No warranty etc.

Thanks again.  I added a link to it in the issue about it being developed with a development version of kicad.  Also passed on the warning that it threw some errors in the conversion.  Let me know if it gets to a verified state and I'll make note of it. 

I'm not going through the process of verifying it myself, sounds like torture.  I know these things ended up too expensive.  I figure there will be a dozen variations on aliexpress before long.  Most likely with cheap opamps, resistors that drift, fake processors, ect.  If I recover most of what I put in it I'll be happy. I really doubt I'll make another run.  Sourcing the parts was a nightmare. 

[wasyoungonce]

ok tried edit of files...didn't work except schematic so downloaded ver 8.99 and forked files to my Github desktop ....all opened ok....looks great so far.   I'm a newbie on KiCad (too many years on Eagle) forced to now change.

Boy I have a whole lota learning to do.......sigh!

Many thanks ....ahh just saw Johan converted all to ver 8.0!  Well done

[clytle374]

ok tried edit of files...didn't work except schematic so downloaded ver 8.99 and forked files to my Github desktop ....all opened ok....looks great so far.   I'm a newbie on KiCad (too many years on Eagle) forced to now change.

Boy I have a whole lota learning to do.......sigh!

Many thanks ....ahh just saw Johan converted all to ver 8.0!  Well done

Luckily being hard core open source I learned both Kicad and Freecad back when it was a pretty ugly process.  People think i'm just cheap, but I have a $125 Kicad shirt, lol. It was the donation threshold to get the shirt. 

[wasyoungonce]

Luckily being hard core open source I learned both Kicad and Freecad back ......

Yep I like freecad been using it for a few years...Just wish I had a small lathe and mill, but i'd probably need another life time to get good at using them.  I did way back as trainee Avionics tech we did lathe and milling, even blacksmith (made the ubiquitous chisel) ....all that is now out of course curriculum.

[clytle374]

Added links to Tindie for premade parts.

[wasyoungonce]

looking but cannot see.   Got a link?  Ta

edit found them:
https://www.tindie.com/products/clytle374/open-t12-soldering-station-board-only-globalship/
https://www.tindie.com/products/clytle374/open-t12-soldering-station/

urrrggghh doesn't ship to Arsetralia!

[clytle374]

Still trying to figure all that out.  EU looks a bit crazy, but Australia might not be bad.

You want the board with a faceplate?  Or the thing assembled? 

Thought maybe I should offer the encoder, display, and connector too.  What do you think?

   

[wasyoungonce]

Add encoder and display.   I buy generally from Digikey or E14 but they wont have the display, but probably the encoder.   Otherwise have to buy from aliexpress

Qty Two boards with face plate and "displays and encoders" if possible   (if not I can get these Aliexpress)  as that will be about at least $100Aud plus post (+$$) for two...quite happy with that

EU is dreadful...VAT etc.  Australia....meh customs don't inspect them.



 

[clytle374]

Add encoder and display.   I buy generally from Digikey or E14 but they wont have the display, but probably the encoder.   Otherwise have to buy from aliexpress

Qty Two boards with face plate and "displays and encoders" if possible   (if not I can get these Aliexpress)  as that will be about at least $100Aud plus post (+$$) for two...quite happy with that

EU is dreadful...VAT etc.  Australia....meh customs don't inspect them.
 

I sent you a PM!

You have any knowledge on cheapest shipping rates from the USA to Australia?

The displays I have require bending the pins like in the picture to align the window and display.  I'll update Tendie to add those options in just a bit, as soon as I figure out shipping to Australia.   

[clytle374]

Bought a couple battery adapters for power tools.  2 each for Dewalt and Milwaukee.  Found out the only difference is the color of them.  Designed and 3D printed some housing to replace half the shell of them.  I'll put it up on git hub in a few days

[Jidis]

Just wish I had a small lathe and mill, but i'd probably need another life time to get good at using them.

I'm impressed that you have the foresight to know that before even getting them, but I guess having used real ones helped there. I've had the pair here for years and while they do come in handy, I still: don't know what I'm doing, don't have the machines tuned and aligned like the retired machinist on YouTube, and don't yet have the correct accessory, clamp, or cutting tool for [whatever I'm currently trying to do].   

[wasyoungonce]

Its Christmas all at once.     My extra Quecoo T12 958s arrived...they work perfectly and my Opens source T12 PCBs and associated parts made by Cory (Clytle374) also arrived.

Like a kid in a candy shop.   These Opens Source PCBs will be fitted to the New units and gives me easy commonality and fixes for some of the OEM controller deficiencies...and parts that are to suit properly not "what's cheapest".

I don't yet have time to power them I will soon , so much on my plate.....I feel like "Mr Creosote" (Monty Python fans will know)

Cory, I will follow up with it working when I get some connectors to fir the 958 power socket...or I'll just throw it on my variable PSU.   I'll follow up ASAP many thanks great stuff happy to help the Open Source community.  I know you'll only barely get your money back ...if at all due to development costs

So I extend my gratitude to You and all the guys who did T12 open source DavidAlfa  Cheers to all

[clytle374]

Its Christmas all at once.     My extra Quecoo T12 958s arrived...they work perfectly and my Opens source T12 PCBs and associated parts made by Cory (Clytle374) also arrived.

Like a kid in a candy shop.   These Opens Source PCBs will be fitted to the New units and gives me easy commonality and fixes for some of the OEM controller deficiencies...and parts that are to suit properly not "what's cheapest".

I don't yet have time to power them I will soon , so much on my plate.....I feel like "Mr Creosote" (Monty Python fans will know)

Cory, I will follow up with it working when I get some connectors to fir the 958 power socket...or I'll just throw it on my variable PSU.   I'll follow up ASAP many thanks great stuff happy to help the Open Source community.  I know you'll only barely get your money back ...if at all due to development costs

So I extend my gratitude to You and all the guys who did T12 open source DavidAlfa  Cheers to all

Glad you got them.  Don't push the board against the back of the GX connector, it looks like it could short.  The board doesn't sit quite square to the faceplate,  my 1st Ksger is like that, and it doesn't effect anything.  I use the encoder washer between the encoder and faceplate to level it out a bit. 

Mount everything and get the display in the middle of the window, then solder the 6 pins.

[wasyoungonce]

many thanks will do

[wasyoungonce]

ok problem

Soldered in display, encoder power etc...jumpered JP4 NTC for in handle NTC.

Red 24V+ to 24V, Blk V- to V- (not GND)...well gnd or PSU supply which is separate to earth and case earth.   Green to PE, "case GND".  A direct connection to GND.  Separate to V- or (T-).    T- and PE are not connected!

Powered....gave display recognised Tip stayed at around 117C but went to thermal runaway.  The bottom PWR graph showed it flat out....tip started to glow....powered off, ASAP.   I had not touched "boost: yet it appeared on display
 

Hooked up in following diagrams.   I note shake sensor and thermistor (in handle ) go to GND which is my PE "Case GND".   Maybe I should cut this?

As you can see from Quicko PSU GND (Green) goes to case case GND and GND out.

Black is -ve supply, red is 24V DC.   Controller FET Q1 measured....appears ok!   I downloaded datasheet looked at its pins and yes they are ok

Should I cut JP4?   I note sense and shake return to PE "GND"....is this right?   Should I cut this trace?

Ideas?...sad face

[clytle374]

You need to add jumper 2 in, it connects tip power to the thermocouple.  It has no temp sensing without it.

Sorry I'm at work, let me know if that's not clear and I'll get back too you as soon as I get home.

[clytle374]

Just to clarify

[clytle374]

Ugh, I'm on my phone and just noticed you need to add the opamp. It was in the bag with the displays

[wasyoungonce]

ahh I jumped 4...urrrrrgh...the OP Amps....wouldn't be A36?....Found some on the floor....qty 2?

[clytle374]

J4 is needed. (External NTC)
So is J2 (thermocouple and heater shared connection)
I don't remember what the opamp are marked with.  I can can look when I get home, they were still in the black strip. They only have 5 leads. Here is a picture of one in the strip

[wasyoungonce]

I never underestimate my stupidity...and I always overestimate my abilities!

Ok JP2 jumped, JP4?removed. (Ahh just reread your above I need this jumped as well….sigh I’ll do that).   A36 Installed.   Ran up power on system with variable PSU set 12V OCP set  ....display sprang to life...doesn't seem any damage...next need to re-plum power and run it

Thanks Cory, I'll repost ASAP but getting late Grandpa (me) needs his nap soon....

edit:
ok was beeping at pwr ....beeping at me...explored menu found "NTC" not enabled.  I enable "NTC" in menu, there is a whole swag of settings there I didn't touch but it worked apparently fine pic to folow

[wasyoungonce]

ok pics self explanatory

Many thanks Cory....just ran off Linear PSU limited current "in case".....it draw max ...well not sure but less than 3.5A.....to 200C.

I will tomorrow run it on my Quicko PSU. I stupidly took off JP4.  (Edit)I’ll put it back. Sigh!

Many thanks....good pickup on jumper!  My stupidity for not putting in Amp for NTC.   Also needs "NTC"  to be turned on in menu

The rest....looking good

edit: users could probably trim some length off the encoder shaft....unless i don't have the knob fully in???

[clytle374]

Nothing you did should hurt it any.

Powered....gave display recognised Tip stayed at around 117C but went to thermal runaway.  The bottom PWR graph showed it flat out....tip started to glow....powered off, ASAP.   I had not touched "boost: yet it appeared on display

The boost showing on the display is a preheat boost, this is different than the boost mode that increases the tip for extra heat while soldering.  It can be shut off in the menu, I have not found it to help speed up the initial warm up time.

 

I note sense and shake return to PE "GND"....is this right?   Should I cut this trace?

They should return to GND.  They can also go to PE.  Your handle might be wired differently due to the current sense on your old controller.  I solder bridge the PE and GND pins where the GX connector is. 

The NTC temp is in the upper right hand corner of the display.  It should be something like (-99) if the handle is unplugged, which is in your picture.  It's working in your picture. So did you put JP4 back?  Or leave a solder bridge? 

The op-amp is for the iron temperature.   

The unit will work fine on 12V, but power is way down.  It will take quite a bit more than 24V, 36V would burn the power regulator,  not sure what is max safe voltage.  The iron is completely use able at 16V

Here is my guide from the github page.  Let me know if it's clear. I'd appreciate feedback.  Yes the encoder shaft is on the long side.    

[wasyoungonce]

Nothing you did should hurt it any.
The boost showing on the display is a preheat boost, this is different than the boost mode that increases the tip for extra heat while soldering.  It can be shut off in the menu, I have not found it to help speed up the initial warm up time.

I didn't know that....part of the Open source?  Doesn't matter....but I know....I'll set it off.

 

I note sense and shake return to PE "GND"....is this right?   Should I cut this trace?

They should return to GND.  They can also go to PE.  Your handle might be wired differently due to the current sense on your old controller.  I solder bridge the PE and GND pins where the GX connector is. 
 

The Quicko (or Quecoo) are same as other T12s wiring ...well the 5 pin are.

Since my case and unit had good GND and track running right to the front connector (JST VH I think...I ordered some wired and plugs/sockets). I did solder "GND" to "PE".   I note some connect this "PE" here to "T-", but I kinda like them separate (because I have the separate GND), but, it has to be referenced to something?   

So, "Should I bridge "PE" (case GND) and "T-""?

The NTC temp is in the upper right hand corner of the display.  It should be something like (-99) if the handle is unplugged, which is in your picture.  It's working in your picture. So did you put JP4 back?  Or leave a solder bridge? 

Yes, I soldered JP4 and JP2 jumpers.... Note JP1 is "open"...no need to cut?

The op-amp is for the iron temperature.   
 

I had been working with some SOT23's that day and thought, "hello" I dropped some!   Not unusual for me.   Most of my spine is screwed together, so what ever God you believe in, doesn't like me, and lets gravity win, to have a laugh at me trying to pick them up!    I just thought oh I had better put them away.....but when you mentioned "OP AMPS".....I twigged!

The unit will work fine on 12V, but power is way down.  It will take quite a bit more than 24V, 36V would burn the power regulator,  not sure what is max safe voltage.  The iron is completely use able at 16V

Here is my guide from the github page.  Let me know if it's clear. I'd appreciate feedback.  Yes the encoder shaft is on the long side.   

Thanks I got somewhat confused with the drawing I guess stating "JP2" jumpered is how T12 gets its Thermocouple feedback.     Similar with JP4.   Jumpering it I understand but JP1 is already open.  I guess I'm saying a step by step instruction....as I didn't know to fit the "OPAMP" "U2" and its not on the image.   I really opened the displays when I was to use them so they fell out of the packet...I did not see them, till gravity won.

I ask ......any possibility of future PCBs, moving up the 24V and return input to fit "VH"?.  I think the JST XH is a little lite for the possible current drawn.

Fitting the display was a bit of a pain.   Might be easier with "flex wires" and double-sided tape?   Otherwise it was easy (apart from my issues) and runs extremely well.

oh lastly, "D1"....is a 1A Schottky reverse polarity protect. I noted on my power supply unit the "DC input" uses "two" similar diodes in parallel for this "T+".   I kinda wonder if a FET would be better for polarity protection and current capacity or two schottkys?   

I know current isn't always "high" but just thinking ling term.   I saw generally 500mA from my linear PSU but did see 1.5A.  FWIW...

Now to assemble unit #2!    This time I won't forget the gravy!  (Re: OPAMP).. A Looney Tunes cartoon....called "Chow Hound". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chow_Hound

[clytle374]

I didn't know that....part of the Open source?  Doesn't matter....but I know....I'll set it off.

It's part of the firmware. 

Since my case and unit had good GND and track running right to the front connector (JST VH I think...I ordered some wired and plugs/sockets). I did solder "GND" to "PE".   I note some connect this "PE" here to "T-", but I kinda like them separate (because I have the separate GND), but, it has to be referenced to something?   

So, "Should I bridge "PE" (case GND) and "T-""?

T- is the same a GND on this board. 

Yes, I soldered JP4 and JP2 jumpers.... Note JP1 is "open"...no need to cut?

Sorry for the confusion.  I wrote the instructions for the assembled units where all the jumpers were installed and some need cut.  The bare board needs them installed.  So JP1 already open, aka cut.

I had been working with some SOT23's that day and thought, "hello" I dropped some!   Not unusual for me.   Most of my spine is screwed together, so what ever God you believe in, doesn't like me, and lets gravity win, to have a laugh at me trying to pick them up!    I just thought oh I had better put them away.....but when you mentioned "OP AMPS".....I twigged!

Ouch!, sorry to hear that.

Thanks I got somewhat confused with the drawing I guess stating "JP2" jumpered is how T12 gets its Thermocouple feedback.     Similar with JP4.   Jumpering it I understand but JP1 is already open.  I guess I'm saying a step by step instruction....as I didn't know to fit the "OPAMP" "U2" and its not on the image.   I really opened the displays when I was to use them so they fell out of the packet...I did not see them, till gravity won.

Same problem again.  I need to clarify that the some need jumpers added and other need them cut.  Maybe I should get some lead free solder and attach all the op amps. 

So JP2 connects the heater output(T+) and the thermocouple input(J) together.  Some other irons have the thermocouple on a separate wire.  So I added the jumper so it could be removed and separate the T+ and J pads on the board.  So many variations, but I think that is for JBC handles where cutting the board is likely.       

I ask ......any possibility of future PCBs, moving up the 24V and return input to fit "VH"?.  I think the JST XH is a little lite for the possible current drawn.

I agree on that connector.  It chosen as it would be plug and play with the Ksger and I though Quicko units.  That's why II left the holes under the connector for wiring to the board.

Fitting the display was a bit of a pain.   Might be easier with "flex wires" and double-sided tape?   Otherwise it was easy (apart from my issues) and runs extremely well.

Not a bad idea.  It's not ideal.  And there's so many display variants out there.

oh lastly, "D1"....is a 1A Schottky reverse polarity protect. I noted on my power supply unit the "DC input" uses "two" similar diodes in parallel for this "T+".   I kinda wonder if a FET would be better for polarity protection and current capacity or two schottkys?   

This is embarrassing. I built the power supply up on homemade PCB at first and I used a diode I had and found first.  There is no reason for it to be a Shottky   I never caught it later.  The board will handle reverse polarity as long as the iron isn't plugged in.  Not sure about that if the iron is plugged in.  The diode is really there so that the switched current draw of of the heating element doesn't pull from the switching power regulators caps. I dislike electrolytic caps, and was short on room anyway.  In hindsight I could have went with 603 or 402 components, but I was designing to hand build a couple and not have them machine built.   

Now to assemble unit #2!    This time I won't forget the gravy!  (Re: OPAMP).. A Looney Tunes cartoon....called "Chow Hound". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chow_Hound

lol, it's all good.   

I don't think I missed any questions.
Thanks
Cory

[wasyoungonce]

Many thanks...doing PCB #2 all going well just about to fit display.   Last one I took off the SIL black spreaders so I could get tighter bends but it because a real battle to get the display to line up.

I think I'll take the Display SIL off and use single core wire that will allow bending and double sided take.  Oh, I had to trim off the front of the Display SIL (poking thru) last time as they sit to proud and interfere with the front clear screen.   So going to single core will help here.

The displays on my Quicko are connected by flex and double sided tape.   But that's manufacturers.   They take fastest route.   

All going well cal was "SPOT ON"!.   I got confused with "SLP" and "STDBY".....I thought for some stupid reason they were opposite operations.   Once I figured its PEBKAC...finally set it all

Jeez....its so nice the quick heat and STDBY and SLP

I do notice Handle thermistor temp goes up quite a bit with use and cools when not.  I'll have to read the CFW to see if cal temp offset is according to this thermistor or not.

Cory, Many thanks for patience and help.

cheers

[clytle374]

Good deal, let me know what you come up with. 

The fast heat is great.  I do a lot of intermittent soldering and always hated to wait for the iron, or let i burn up for hours while I was troubleshooting or something.

The handle will warm up some.  It's why the NTC is needed there to compensate for the thermocouple cold junction.  You might need to diagnose what NTC you have.  I should have sent you a known one to put in your handle. How much is "up a little"?
Thanks
Cory 

[wasyoungonce]

Mmmm cannot say I thought I saw around 39C+....i was watching it come down.  I'll have to watch more closely though cal went easily.  I'll measure thermistor resistance and post away.   I can use hot air gun and thermocouple on meter etc.  I'll post these.

This build I used single core wire for the display connectors.   It allows me some wriggle after setting it all aligned, to fix any slight alignment issue after fixing.   It was also very much easier to align.

[clytle374]

Mmmm cannot say I thought I saw around 39C+....i was watching it come down.  I'll have to watch more closely though cal went easily.  I'll measure thermistor resistance and post away.   I can use hot air gun and thermocouple on meter etc.  I'll post these.

This build I used single core wire for the display connectors.   It allows me some wriggle after setting it all aligned, to fix any slight alignment issue after fixing.   It was also very much easier to align.

39C is unlikely hot. 

That is a better display setup, Good!

[wasyoungonce]

Ok Testing thermistor in handle and mind you this is only one.
0C            ~ 30K
19.8-20C ~ 12.2K
30C         ~ 8.2K
40C         ~ 5.2K
50C         ~ 3.1K
60C         ~ 1K

Heat gun, thermocouple, old temp probe meter on ohms (inside disconnected iron pins), heat gun freeze spray...as dodgy as

2nd unit ran fine cal T4 tip, was perfect result!   Again needed to turn on NTC in menu..It was complaining till i did,  All other menu settings played with except PIC and NTC stuff.   Runs very well

I do like boost on wake but it does overshoot temp and settles in around 5 seconds

[clytle374]

I don't know the NTC stuff off the top of my head.  If you have a number in the upper right corner, it's reading it. 

Did the display agree with the conditions you set?

I found that my tips would give 100% and heat up just as well as boost.  If boost is overshooting turn down the boost time in the menu. 

Don't forget to set up your tips in the tip library so each one is calibrated properly.

[DavidAlfa]

Shoudn't complain when turning the NTC off, will use the internal STM32 sensor when doing so, won't be as precise but should work.

According to your measurements, beta is about 4350, a common value, so you might want to change that in the settings.

https://www.ametherm.com/thermistor/ntc-thermistor-beta

[clytle374]

Shoudn't complain when turning the NTC off, will use the internal STM32 sensor when doing so, won't be as precise but should work.

Thanks!
I guess that leaves 3 options to choose from.  The NTC on the board, one on the handle, or the STM32 internal.  But he was getting a reading when the handle was plugged in, but not when unplugged. 

[DavidAlfa]

When it does so it's because you're setting the external NTC, which gets disconnected when removing the handle, it goes to 99.9°C to indicate that, will come back to normal when everything is properly connected.
Setting it to auto will do the same thing, but fallback to the internal sensor if the NTC is not detected when inserting the handle back, instead showing NTC error.

Edit:
Sorry, I messed up, I had forgot how it worked!

NTC ON: Tries the external NTC, fallbacks to internal stm32 sensor if not detected.
NTC OFF: Always uses internal stm32 sensor.
NTC Detect option: Same as NTC ON, but allows to use two NTC values, for example different handles using 10K and 100K NTCs, tries to guess which one is being used, will also fallback to internal stm32 sensor if none is giving reasonable temperatures.
This is only useful for very different NTCs, like 10K and 100K, will probably fail to properly detect the correct one if they're similar (Like 10 and 15K)

There isn't such switch to toggle between handle and pcb NTC (Unless you did so in the pcb), only the stm32 internal sensor and the external NTC, which you may place anywhere, but the best is in the handle as this is where the cold junction happens.

[clytle374]

There's no such switch to toggle between handle and pcb NTC, theres just stm32 internal sensor and external NTC you may place anywhere.

Thanks, I see.
I get that part but the board has jumpers to select the input from a NTC on the board or the handle, removing both would be neither.  Guess adding that one to the board was kinda a waste of time.

[wasyoungonce]

Shoudn't complain when turning the NTC off, will use the internal STM32 sensor when doing so, won't be as precise but should work.

According to your measurements, beta is about 4350, a common value, so you might want to change that in the settings.

https://www.ametherm.com/thermistor/ntc-thermistor-beta

Many thanks David....looks to be beta around 4300.  I might try a better set-up and do a few handles.   I guess someone knows the quicko thermistor MRN?   That'll make it easier

Many many thanks to both of you

[wasyoungonce]

Shoudn't complain when turning the NTC off, will use the internal STM32 sensor when doing so, won't be as precise but should work.

According to your measurements, beta is about 4350, a common value, so you might want to change that in the settings.

https://www.ametherm.com/thermistor/ntc-thermistor-beta

Excellent.  I might test a couple of thermistors but some one must know the thermistor mrn....that would be easier

My guess they are all similar but you never know  Bata turns out to be 4300!

Many thanks to you both.   Yes I saved tip cal in library

cheers

edit; double post....a matrix glitch?

edit: edit: might be wise to put in my own known thermistor and a proper shake sensor not the mercury tile ball! I'll go re-read the CFW thread on this but if anyone knows Thermistors and shake sensors used???

MF58B3940 thermistor (10k) SW-200D shake sw.

[DavidAlfa]

Mercury switches work so much better than ball sensors, whose contacts will eventually oxidize and fail.
The default beta of 3950 isn't that far from 4300, I don't think it'll make any real-life difference else than 1-3ºC.

Think, you're holding a plastic piece, so the internal are pretty much isolated, and there're metal parts everywhere that will conduct the heat from the tip.
Plus,your had will warm the handle to 30-something ºC , reducing the already low thermal conductivity of the plastic.
In the end, the heat has nowhere to go else than through handle wire, and a bit through the plastic.
So yeah, the handle internals can reach 40ºC very easily, if not more.

[clytle374]

When it does so it's because you're setting the external NTC, which gets disconnected when removing the handle, it goes to 99.9°C to indicate that, will come back to normal when everything is properly connected.
Setting it to auto will do the same thing, but fallback to the internal sensor if the NTC is not detected when inserting the handle back, instead showing NTC error.

Edit:
Sorry, I messed up, I had forgot how it worked!

NTC ON: Tries the external NTC, fallbacks to internal stm32 sensor if not detected.
NTC OFF: Always uses internal stm32 sensor.
NTC Detect option: Same as NTC ON, but allows to use two NTC values, for example different handles using 10K and 100K NTCs, tries to guess which one is being used, will also fallback to internal stm32 sensor if none is giving reasonable temperatures.
This is only useful for very different NTCs, like 10K and 100K, will probably fail to properly detect the correct one if they're similar (Like 10 and 15K)

There isn't such switch to toggle between handle and pcb NTC (Unless you did so in the pcb), only the stm32 internal sensor and the external NTC, which you may place anywhere, but the best is in the handle as this is where the cold junction happens.

Thanks for the clarification on the NTC settings in the software.  It was on my list of things to look up someday..

I put 2 jumpers on the PCB.  One has the NTC going to the handle.  The other jumper goes to a 10K 3950 NTC on the board.  In the handle is better, but I was trying for max compatibility with existing stuff.  Neither one of my newer KSGERs had a NTC in the handle, but had them on the board. 

[DavidAlfa]

I noticed there was some missing details about the NTC operation in the manual, updated.

[wasyoungonce]

Thanks David for the NTC update.  I ordered 10k 1% NTCs and are staying with the mercury sw’s FTM.  I want the irons to match Ksger     There is so much variation between mfgrs!  I guess whatever part they get a deal on.

I do like the Quicko tips.  But will get the proper OEM drag tips.  They last and work well on my old 936!  The 3mm drag tip is the “cats pyjamas” !

[wasyoungonce]

Cory...just looking at encoder.  I reckon you can change this to: PEC11R-4215K-S0024  (15mm length Knurled (Slotted) shaft) JLPCB MRN: C7275025 of course...no stk

I think you used the PEC11R-4220K-S0024 ?  Is that right?   Anyway just saying the shaft is quite long and could be shorter by 5mm.   I note the Quicko units use a 15mm Knurled shaft.   Which means I need to cut 5mm off the current shafts, which is nearly the "complete Knurled or slotted" length, to get the knob closer to the face plate.   

The Quicko, I noted used used a longer Knob 15mm with a larger 15mm Skirt.  Which covers the shaft and nut.  see images

You may be able to get longer shaft Knobs with skirts from aliexpress.   I looked JLPCB but they are lacking here.  SO some on aliexpress, maybe a 15mm length or 20mmm length Knob, with Skirt is a better option. 

If I was to cut the encoder slotted shaft I'd almost have no slots to grab the knob onto.   If you stayed with the same encoder shaft length a 20mm knob with a skirt might be better option.   Just sayin.  Her's me...you thru these in for free and I'm whinging!   Sheee'sz!

Here's some aliexpress knobs I'm sure there are cheaper (sorry for the long links)..but a 17mm or 20mm Knob would suit better to the current encoder shaft (20mm length i think) but if you use a shorter encoder shaft then a 15mm Knob is ok)  I noted they put some small wadding inside the Quicko knob (17mm length for a 15mm encoder shaft) to get it to fit a little proud of the face plate.   This is better than cutting the encoder shaft or a Knob too short

I also like the "Skirt" knobs as they hide the nut (see the black Quicko knob).   Just some musings on the parts.  JLCPCB doesnt appears to have "knobs".

I wish I purchased a 3rd "open source PCB" now........to convert my other unit.  FWIW I know cost is important.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005006873809876.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.5b6f2fa3FNGgMs&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%244.65%21AU%20%243.95%21%21%213.00%212.55%21%402101c5df17230825167321893e64c0%2112000038587940428%21sh%21AU%211851760988%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005005108135307.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.5b6f2fa3FNGgMs&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%242.79%21AU%20%242.37%21%21%211.80%211.53%21%402101c5df17230825512252349e64c0%2112000031688636543%21sh%21AU%211851760988%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005007235116315.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.506e531bYbZIfY&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%249.42%21AU%20%247.82%21%21%2143.60%2136.19%21%402101e9ec17230841603915688e543c%2112000039903933758%21sh%21AU%211851760988%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005005565925855.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.5b6f2fa3FNGgMs&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%244.96%21AU%20%244.22%21%21%213.20%212.72%21%402101c5df17230824764851004e64c0%2112000033575497960%21sh%21AU%211851760988%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa#nav-specification

[wasyoungonce]

This explains it better than words.   So maybe a shorter encoder shaft "15mm" and 17mm Knob or a 20mm knob??

I know cost matters but you may find some cheapies

[clytle374]

Yes that is the encoder I used.  All the non surface mount parts came from digikey, as did the op amp.  Do you know the bournes part number for the shorter encoder?   Sadly I already have several of them.  I might just cut one to a better length and see if the knob grabs it okay.  The encoder is one of the most expensive parts.  Right after the STM32, display, and opamp.  The opamp wasn't installed by the board house since the opamp I used on the prototype was like 5 x the price with them.  I might see if I can return the 20 I didn't open to digikey and find a shorter one.  I'll look into options as I wasn't really happy with the way that part turned out.  One benefit is that I can grab the knob with the iron in my hand easily with that much clearance.

The knobs I got were about the same costs.  Costs + shipping costs made the decision.   

No offense taken.  In the unlikely event there is a second run of these I'll fine tune it more.  I know that Schottky diode will work just fine and doesn't hurt anything but I"ll add that to the list of things I regret too.  LOL 

USPS screwed me on the shipping.  I canceled the first order that I didn't address correctly and they are now denying the refund saying I shipped it, but tracking doesn't show it going anywhere.  I replied that I didn't think I sent the order twice, but if they say I did I need the insurance for the package as they lost it. lol, only the government can mess up like this.

So I might have a label to send you another one.  You're the only purchaser other than the power tool adapters units I've sold to couple friends.  I have soldering equipment covered for life 

[clytle374]

Is that last picture before or after you cut the shaft?  It looks way better.

[wasyoungonce]

no just with the quicko knob fitted....its slightly longer.   If I cut 3mm off it might hide the nut.  But I won't rush into this

[clytle374]

no just with the quicko knob fitted....its slightly longer.   If I cut 3mm off it might hide the nut.  But I won't rush into this

That's the 15 x 15mm knob with a skirt yoou pictured earlier?

Thank you for the trial and error reports on what works well. 

EDIT: I'm taking a much needed break and working on some old tube ham gear for a while. 

[wasyoungonce]

Yes do so.  Things like this are draining and a good reset will see ya right.  But IMHO you are on the right track just need “i’s” dotted and “t’ees” crossed

Well done thanks for your help and Open Source PCBs.  Taught me a lot I was probing around the PCBs and trying to get a handle on NTC feedback correction.  Now I know Thankd to all especially you and David

Edit.  The Quicko knob was 17mm length not 15mm. Cheers
Edit 2: I've ordered a few different sized (length) knobs with skirts (called "Straw hat type"... differing hat diameter)......I don't want to cut the shaft ....vibration might degrade contacts.   So wait till I get the knobs and post some photos.   The Encoder isn't really too long its just getting an acceptable cheap Knob to hide the Nut.    Unfortunately as the knob length increases  the price goes up.   So a shorter shaft encoder may be cheaper.

If it matters that is.

[clytle374]

Let me know how the knob you get works out.  Just to clarify, I wasn't saying I wouldn't be here for questions, just not doing any redesigns for a bit

[wasyoungonce]

There is never anything I designed I said “that’s perfect”.  There is always something you look at and wish you had done it slightly different.  But when selling even low cost open source every cent is important. Have a rest.  It’ll do ya head in.

Cheers

Many thanks. I’ll post back with my knob images of knobs

[slavoy]

I have the PCBs and am testing it. I noticed, that on your PCB one connection to the 4-pin i2c screen version (SDA) is not populated, there is no trace from the mcu. If you program it from the deividAlfa and want to simply use parts from the original KSGER T12 V2, the screen will not work. One need to modify the source code, the PCB or solder a little wire (which is ofc quicker and easier in my case ).
While examining the PCB, I also noticed that a single quite thin trace on the top layer is used to control the heater. In the original design, the power trace is double-layered with 2 vias. I suggest to consider it in future revisions.

[DavidAlfa]

This board uses KSGER v3 base, so it's SPI display:

[clytle374]

I have the PCBs and am testing it. I noticed, that on your PCB one connection to the 4-pin i2c screen version (SDA) is not populated, there is no trace from the mcu. If you program it from the deividAlfa and want to simply use parts from the original KSGER T12 V2, the screen will not work. One need to modify the source code, the PCB or solder a little wire (which is ofc quicker and easier in my case ).
While examining the PCB, I also noticed that a single quite thin trace on the top layer is used to control the heater. In the original design, the power trace is double-layered with 2 vias. I suggest to consider it in future revisions.

It's definitively for the 6 pin SPI display.  I'll check the ad and be sure I was clear about that. Did you not get a display?  Everyone that has ordered one has opted for the display.  Glad to see it was so easy to convert it. 

The track is thin and I intended for there to be a copper pour there, there was one at one point.  Of the ksger boards I had neither had traces on both sides.  The PCB calculators say it is okay, especially since the trace is so short.  I'll update the github sometime to make it thicker.  But I don't intend to run anymore batches of these. 

[wasyoungonce]

Many thanks. I’ll post back with my knob images of knobs

clytle374
Sorry for delay on knobs.  Received them but are back in hospital under knife soon so may be awhile

Cheers

[clytle374]

clytle374
Sorry for delay on knobs.  Received them but are back in hospital under knife soon so may be awhile

Cheers

Sorry to hear that, I'm on no hurry

[slavoy]

For today, I bought this expensive screen:
https://www.waveshare.com/1.3inch-oled-b.htm
SH1106 driver
Connected:
VCC (PCB) to VCC (OLED)
GND (PCB) to GND (OLED)
D/C (PCB) to D/C (OLED)
RST (PCB) to RES (OLED)
SDA (PCB) to DIN (OLED)
SCL (PCB) to CLK (OLED)
And it worked briefly like several times, then I get artifacts and now a steady horizontal line. Any chance to get it working? If no, tell me which screen to buy. I want to get it done asap. Took me too much time arleady.
//
Did a reset by holding down the encoder and I get a picture again for this one power cycle. After reset the power - again a line.

[clytle374]

I really don't know what to think about that.  Not sure if the processor isn't coming up, or the screen isn't.  Try interrupting the RST line?

It was designed around the 6 pin SPI screens. 

I made sure it works with the ksger display.  Why not use the 4 pin screen you had working before? 

ebay has lots of results for "1.3" oled 6 pin SPI" displays. 

[clytle374]

Is that display 3.3V?

[slavoy]

The whole confusion come down from the fact that I didn’t realize your PCB is for firmware version V3 which is different. In my previous post, the display worked because the board had only the MCU and loaded firmware for V2. I have a KSGER V2 and thought I could transfer most of the components (which was mostly true). However, after soldering the entire board and loading V3, it obviously didn’t work. I also had an issue with the op-amp, probably because I received a counterfeit one, but I swapped it with the "original" from KSGER PCB, and it works. Now, I’m just left with the display. I’ll try soldering it with short wires and connect CS directly to GND in a few minutes.
I see it works by the current consumption and heat.
It’s all due to my haste. I had a time frame for this project and rushed into it without a detailed analysis.

[clytle374]

The whole confusion come down from the fact that I didn’t realize your PCB is for firmware version V3 which is different. In my previous post, the display worked because the board had only the MCU and loaded firmware for V2. I have a KSGER V2 and thought I could transfer most of the components (which was mostly true). However, after soldering the entire board and loading V3, it obviously didn’t work. I also had an issue with the op-amp, probably because I received a counterfeit one, but I swapped it with the "original" from KSGER PCB, and it works. Now, I’m just left with the display. I’ll try soldering it with short wires and connect CS directly to GND in a few minutes.
I see it works by the current consumption and heat.
It’s all due to my haste. I had a time frame for this project and rushed into it without a detailed analysis.

A time frame always makes for a rough time.  I didn't have the board house populate the op-amp on the boards I'm selling because of that, that and they are expensive.  I can try to dig up where I got my displays from in a couple days, I don't have access to most of my stuff right now. I ordered one and tested it, then ordered enough to sell them as kits.  I had a similar issue of getting a blank screen on my reflow oven project and it would only come on after a reset, not on initial power up.  I'd double check the power, as I think the displays have voltage boosters to drive the display.  Some take 3.3V, some 5V, and some both.         

[slavoy]

Well, shortening the wires didn’t help, but I accidentally caused a short with my tweezers, and smoke came out of the MCU and the voltage reg 

I will check what else went up in smoke in the morning

[clytle374]

Well, shortening the wires didn’t help, but I accidentally caused a short with my tweezers, and smoke came out of the MCU and the voltage reg 

I will check what else went up in smoke in the morning

I know that feeling, try not to let it give you nightmares. 

[DavidAlfa]

It seems the display has no vreg on it so it's 3.3V only.
That wiring mess won't work properly at the MHz speeds the SPI interface operates, forget it!

[slavoy]

Burned: MCU, screen, opamp, 3.3V regulator. Mosfet seems to survive.

I have replaced all but opamp for now. The guy on auction sent me wrong chips of course (single buffers haha) and I got no spare. Will try to find one when I get home.
I also got an idea to replace bare oled screen from the old 4-pin module to that 7-pin fried one and tadaa  Works every time now.

[clytle374]

Burned: MCU, screen, opamp, 3.3V regulator. Mosfet seems to survive.

I have replaced all but opamp for now. The guy on auction sent me wrong chips of course (single buffers haha) and I got no spare. Will try to find one when I get home.
I also got an idea to replace bare oled screen from the old 4-pin module to that 7-pin fried one and tadaa  Works every time now.

Good deal, I'm glad you got it sorted out mostly.  I've lost all hopes in getting components from all but major dealers.  I honestly had the board house order many of the parts from Digikey just so I knew they would work.  I might have overkilled the op-amp specs, i don't know for sure. 

[slavoy]

The LMR50410 and the inductor 74405042068 are practically unavailable in Poland. Even if you were to order them from abroad, it's not very cost-effective for a hobbyist (Mousers shipping 20Euro lol). The inductor could probably be replaced with another one that's more readily available.
I also looked for other dc-dc converters in Poland that would be at least partially pin-compatible, but nothing interesting in that package was available at the time when I was assembling it.
For now, I used one pin compatible LM2940 to go down from 24V to 3.3V, for testing. It does get a bit hot, that's true, but you could try some cheaper solutions, like using two resistors to dissipate part of the power and maybe another LM7808 inbetween as it is done in KSGER V2—this might be sufficient and would be the cheapest option.
Maybe a single DC-DC converter directly to 3.3V, as long as it doesn't interfere with the thermocouple measurements, would also be a good solution, but it needs some tests.
As for the opamp in that package it is also problematic here. The OPA336N I bought on auction turned out to be a counterfeit. However, it is available in SOP8 packaging in the store. I dissasembled a portable Secure T12 iron and it uses GS8332 SOP-8 for thermocouple. Also the Quicko uses SOP8 LM358.

[clytle374]

The LMR50410 and the inductor 74405042068 are practically unavailable in Poland. Even if you were to order them from abroad, it's not very cost-effective for a hobbyist (Mousers shipping 20Euro lol). The inductor could probably be replaced with another one that's more readily available.
I also looked for other dc-dc converters in Poland that would be at least partially pin-compatible, but nothing interesting in that package was available at the time when I was assembling it.
For now, I used one pin compatible LM2940 to go down from 24V to 3.3V, for testing. It does get a bit hot, that's true, but you could try some cheaper solutions, like using two resistors to dissipate part of the power and maybe another LM7808 inbetween as it is done in KSGER V2—this might be sufficient and would be the cheapest option.
Maybe a single DC-DC converter directly to 3.3V, as long as it doesn't interfere with the thermocouple measurements, would also be a good solution, but it needs some tests.
As for the opamp in that package it is also problematic here. The OPA336N I bought on auction turned out to be a counterfeit. However, it is available in SOP8 packaging in the store. I dissasembled a portable Secure T12 iron and it uses GS8332 SOP-8 for thermocouple. Also the Quicko uses SOP8 LM358.

Ouch, I get stuff from Digikey in 2 days for $4.99.  20 euro would hurt.  I looked and shipping them into the EU is not something I'm going to suffer through. 
My first Ksger has a 24V to 3.3V switching supply and it's ADC noise is pretty bad, so I killed that option. Resistor droppers were considered. 

The switching power supply is designed with TI's web tool.  So all related part numbers were defined by the tool.   

I chose the OPA336N for the very low input bias current.  Not having details on the thermocouple used in the T12s, I error-ed on the side of caution.  It was the op amp used in a reference design for a thermocouple amp I found researching this.   

[RobtP]

I've been watching this discussion for a while, am interested in building one of these, the front panel on my KSGER has died. Haven't investigated what broke but I thought it would be fun to replace it by building one of these boards.

I'm in the act of ordering some PCBs from JLPCB for another project so I've added some of these to my cart. The estimated cost is $8.50 for 20 pieces (lead-free HASL) so there's no financial risk to me if no-one's interested but I thought I could buy some to send to anyone in the UK that might like to try it. Will take a while to deliver from China. I expect second class post would be around 85p once I have them, I guess if there is interest we can come to some kind of agreement about kicking some funds to the developers. People would have to source parts themselves, obviously.

Are there any objections to me doing this?

I've used the downgraded KiCAD file, which looks OK to my inexperienced eye but are there any known pitfalls I should look out for before I order? I don't need 2oz copper or anything like that do I?

[clytle374]

I've been watching this discussion for a while, am interested in building one of these, the front panel on my KSGER has died. Haven't investigated what broke but I thought it would be fun to replace it by building one of these boards.

I'm in the act of ordering some PCBs from JLPCB for another project so I've added some of these to my cart. The estimated cost is $8.50 for 20 pieces (lead-free HASL) so there's no financial risk to me if no-one's interested but I thought I could buy some to send to anyone in the UK that might like to try it. Will take a while to deliver from China. I expect second class post would be around 85p once I have them, I guess if there is interest we can come to some kind of agreement about kicking some funds to the developers. People would have to source parts themselves, obviously.

Are there any objections to me doing this?

I've used the downgraded KiCAD file, which looks OK to my inexperienced eye but are there any known pitfalls I should look out for before I order? I don't need 2oz copper or anything like that do I?

I would add a copper pour for the T12+ from the mosfet to the pads for the GX connector and the solder connector.  It's thin, it should be fine, but thicker is better.  I think I had my priority order incorrect on the original.  I changed it on the git for the Dev version of Kicad.  I just realized I never updated any of the pictures.  These changes won't be reflected on the downgraded version.  I'll attach a picture of what I'm talking about. 

Parts cost is higher than you think, but you've probably seen those discussions.

I don't have any objections to it, It's opensource.  I have some for sale but too much trouble to get into the EU,  I made it ROHS for that reason.  But it seems like a lot of trouble, so unless someone with experience with that wants to tell me how.  I also don't have any bare PCBs as after building the first prototype on a homemade PCB, I decided I was not doing that again. 

   

[RobtP]

Done that. Thanks! Not ordered yet, though. I probably will order order the PCBs, even if I decide not to buy the components and make the board it won't have cost anything much. I actually already have a few of those things already.

Even more of a pain to send to UK (not in EU any more), especially to my address.