Do you need the component to survive? If not - big blob of solder and a regular soldering tip would work. Heat each pin by moving the blob around, eventually they all will heat up enough. And if you do rework more or less often - get a hot air station. No matter the tip - desoldering stuff like this with a soldering iron is a pain.
If it is SOT23-3, then you can also lift one pin, then desolder the rest of them. This will mot damage the device if done carefully.
Or you can cut the pins if you don't need it to survive at all.
"Chip-Quik" which is a very low melting solder may help. If you have access to a little "Wood's" meltel or anything similar, that may work too. Otherwise, I would just use my flush cutters to cut 1 or 2 of the legs off and remove in the usual way.
Two soldering irons (one in each hand) and no special tips are needed.
The problem is the width of a JEDEC SOT23 package leg bend to leg bend is not well defined. Here's NXP's dimensions:
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/package-information/SOT23.pdfAdd up the tolerances, and you'll find that a bit that jams on the legs of a max lead length (NXP: H
E) SOT23 with minimum flat end length (NXP: L
p - c, where c is the lead thickness) wont even land on the leg ends of a min. lead length package.
Therefore you'd need a deeply slotted tip that could be bent to accommodate your specific SOT23 width across lead bends.
Does anyone know of a video of these de-soldering tips that shows there use?
I would very much like to see a video of an SOT23 being de-soldered using one of those tips from JBC or Hakko.
There's not much to it, just add a small amount of solder to act as a thermal bridge.
There's not much to it, just add a small amount of solder to act as a thermal bridge.
Great, and thank you for your videos on the T3A and the T3B.
These tips for de-soldering look to be a nice, clean, and reliable way to de-solder without risking damage to other nearby parts. But there is nothing online that I have found, about them.
https://www.jbctools.com/c245150-cartridge-chip-22-s2-product-453.html2.2mm slot looks like a better choice. It still wont fit a max bend width SOT-23, as you'd need slightly over 2.5mm slot for that. If I were you, I'd measure the typical SOT-23 width across lead bends on a representative sample of the boards you intend to rework before ordering any bits . . .
https://www.jbctools.com/c245150-cartridge-chip-22-s2-product-453.html
2.2mm slot looks like a better choice. It still wont fit a max bend width SOT-23, as you'd need slightly over 2.5mm slot for that. If I were you, I'd measure the typical SOT-23 width across lead bends on a representative sample of the boards you intend to rework before ordering any bits . . .
Your right about fitting over the bend of the legs, but that bit will not reach across all the legs (see e1 in attached).
I changed to using a heat gun in the 90's but procured a set of micro tweezers for home a few years ago along with a set of wide tips. They are much faster than the heat gun and easier on the board.
Showing me removing SOT23s with a crude home made soldering iron. This is about is crude a setup as it gets.
https://youtu.be/5Gjz6jqOiSQ?t=1097
I changed to using a heat gun in the 90's but procured a set of micro tweezers for home a few years ago along with a set of wide tips. They are much faster than the heat gun and easier on the board.
Showing me removing SOT23s with a crude home made soldering iron. This is about is crude a setup as it gets.
https://youtu.be/5Gjz6jqOiSQ?t=1097
That is hardcore soldering, using a 100 Year old Clayton & Lambert Torch.
That is hardcore soldering, using a 100 Year old Clayton & Lambert Torch.
I was going to use an antique galvanometer to measure the temperature.
Back to the O.P's problem, if there's at least one mm clear either end of the SOT-23,
https://www.jbctools.com/c245268-special-15-product-446.html with its 'arms' carefully spayed out to just fit over the package legs should work. As is its a 1.5mm gap between two 15mm long 5mm wide at the tip 'arms', so it wouldn't take much bending to open it out to around 2.4mm.
Back to the O.P's problem, if there's at least one mm clear either end of the SOT-23, https://www.jbctools.com/c245268-special-15-product-446.html with its 'arms' carefully spayed out to just fit over the package legs should work. As is its a 1.5mm gap between two 15mm long 5mm wide at the tip 'arms', so it wouldn't take much bending to open it out to around 2.4mm.
Interesting idea.
It would be helpful if there was some more details on using these nice JBC tips.
Just get a cheap chinese T12 knife or chisel tip (in the 3$ range) and slot it to your need with a dremel or whatever tool you have at hand.
I mean, SOT23 isn't exactly the hardest package to desolder, there's no need to overthink this.
Why so much drama about a sot23? You can perfectly remove them with a small solder blob, not killing either the board or the component.
I've removed thousands of components much larger than a sot23 this way, like mcus, memory ics... Just get some practice with scrapped parts.
Just get a cheap chinese T12 knife or chisel tip (in the 3$ range) and slot it to your need with a dremel or whatever tool you have at hand.
I mean, SOT23 isn't exactly the hardest package to desolder, there's no need to overthink this.
It might be good to have some cheap T12's on hand to hack for one off jobs. But a AUD$50 tip that lasts and can work in a densely packed board. And without risk to other parts, like plastic connecters for example, is worth the extra cost.
Why so much drama about a sot23? You can perfectly remove them with a small solder blob, not killing either the board or the component.
I've removed thousands of components much larger than a sot23 this way, like mcus, memory ics... Just get some practice with scrapped parts.
No drama. There is a lack of info on these tips. And I tried the local supplier, but I've yet to get a response.
Based on this discussion it does look like they are worth the extra cost.
Thank you to all those who replied.
It depends on how frequently you need to desolder SOT-23-3. For occasional repair work, simply lift the single pin with a bent mounted needle or fine tipped dental pick while heating it with an ordinary chisel tip bit (wide enough to bridge the other two pins when you do the other side), and wick off the solder from the lifted pin, possibly sliding a kapton shim under it, or prod it and check it flexes once its cooled, to guarantee its free, then heat up the other side and slide the SOT-23 off its pads.
However if you've got thousands of them to do, e.g. a production run of hundreds of boards each with tens of the wrong part fitted due to an assembly or specification FUBAR and you've been left holding the baby, a dedicated desoldering bit would be a worthwhile investment.
Ygi's suggestion of machining the tip of a bit to suit could work, but if you don't send it out to get the cut surfaces heavily nickel plated as a barrier layer, then hard chromed where you don't want it to wet, it will have a short life due to the exposed copper core eroding.
It depends on how frequently you need to desolder SOT-23-3. For occasional repair work, simply lift the single pin with a bent mounted needle or fine tipped dental pick while heating it with an ordinary chisel tip bit (wide enough to bridge the other two pins when you do the other side), and wick off the solder from the lifted pin, possibly sliding a kapton shim under it, or prod it and check it flexes once its cooled, to guarantee its free, then heat up the other side and slide the SOT-23 off its pads.
However if you've got thousands of them to do, e.g. a production run of hundreds of boards each with tens of the wrong part fitted due to an assembly or specification FUBAR and you've been left holding the baby, a dedicated desoldering bit would be a worthwhile investment.
Ygi's suggestion of machining the tip of a bit to suit could work, but if you don't send it out to get the cut surfaces heavily nickel plated as a barrier layer, then hard chromed where you don't want it to wet, it will have a short life due to the exposed copper core eroding.
Murphy's inverse law - if I get the tip and are ready, I'll never need to use it.
