Suggestions Hakko FX-100 vs metcal MX500 or MX5200

[mikeselectricstuff]

It can be unnerving to hot swap tips as it's driving alot of power  and I can feel it get too hot very fast through the silicone pads.

Turn it off when changing tips!

1. Make sure the system is turned off.
2. Pull out the cartridge using the Cartridge Removal Pad (MX-CP1). NOTE:
THE TIP CARTRIDGE MAY BE HOT. DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS
(PLIERS, ETC) TO REMOVE CARTRIDGES!
3. Push a new cartridge into the handle.
4. Place hand-piece(s) into associated work stand(s).
5. Push the power switch “ON”. The new cartridge will heat up to temperature
quickly.

No need. The later psus
,5000 and later, auto-reset. You just get used to swapping quickly-you can let go as soon as the tip is seated

[Someone]

It can be unnerving to hot swap tips as it's driving alot of power  and I can feel it get too hot very fast through the silicone pads.

Turn it off when changing tips!

1. Make sure the system is turned off.
2. Pull out the cartridge using the Cartridge Removal Pad (MX-CP1). NOTE:
THE TIP CARTRIDGE MAY BE HOT. DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS
(PLIERS, ETC) TO REMOVE CARTRIDGES!
3. Push a new cartridge into the handle.
4. Place hand-piece(s) into associated work stand(s).
5. Push the power switch “ON”. The new cartridge will heat up to temperature
quickly.

No need. The later psus
,5000 and later, auto-reset. You just get used to swapping quickly-you can let go as soon as the tip is seated

You can change tips without turning off, but those are the instructions for the current 5000/5200 series, and the above is taken verbatim from their user manuals. This isn't the ass covering over careful approach like the instructions for drills that say to remove the battery before changing bits, its the more practical case of not trying to change bits while the drill is still operating (although you could). Tuning off the power both recommended by the manufacturer and a sensible way to avoid putting excess heat into the tip changing pad.

[mikeselectricstuff]

You'd have to hold the tip way longer than necessary to get any heat into the pad. Also, the MX5000 takes a second or two to reset anyway.
The power switch on the 5000 isn't the best so by turning on & off every time you're bound to shorten its life.
I never turn off and change tips multiple times a day - it just isn't an issue
 

[Someone]

You'd have to hold the tip way longer than necessary to get any heat into the pad. Also, the MX5000 takes a second or two to reset anyway.
The power switch on the 5000 isn't the best so by turning on & off every time you're bound to shorten its life.
I never turn off and change tips multiple times a day - it just isn't an issue

You can, its not recommended by the manufacturer and some of us feel its uncomfortably warm. Whats your problem with that? Recommending people don't turn it off is how we've ended up here.

[helius]

If the Metcal requires the power to be off when changing tips, then it is notably inferior to both JBC and Pace.

[Someone]

If the Metcal requires the power to be off when changing tips, then it is notably inferior to both JBC and Pace.

The quick change mechanism on the JBC stands is much better all round, those resistive stations have their advantages to be sure. But for instance Thermaltronics also include the warning to turn off the power supply when changing tips but most users don't bother:

[mikeselectricstuff]

If the Metcal requires the power to be off when changing tips, then it is notably inferior to both JBC and Pace.

It doesn't. If there was any real issue the PSU would be designed to not auto-reset.
The older Metcals didn't auto-reset, but that's probably because they were dumb supplies with no MCU.
If you're paranoid about heat then you can grasp the tip far enough away from the rne that heat is negligible

[Monkeh]

How power cycling becomes such an argument I'll never know.

*resumes flipping power switch on bulletproof old Metcal*

[zapta]

How power cycling becomes such an argument I'll never know.

*resumes flipping power switch on bulletproof old Metcal*

Yes, a non issue. The requirements of manual resume is for safety, in case you insert a cold tip with bare hands, it would burn your fingers in no time.

A momentary resume push button would be nice though.

[coerrace]

Anyone know or suggest a cable extension to use between the hand MX-H1-AV and the metcal 5200? Where I will have located the unit I need only like a 15-30 inches more than the default cable maybe. I see the metcal factory cable is a kind of F connector but maybe could work with a simple coaxial cable for TV M-F extensions? This is the reason why ask to know if maybe there is a suggested brand or any recommendation to extend the original factory cable.

Thank you

[GreyWoolfe]

Anyone know or suggest a cable extension to use between the hand MX-H1-AV and the metcal 5200? Where I will have located the unit I need only like a 15-30 inches more than the default cable maybe. I see the metcal factory cable is a kind of F connector but maybe could work with a simple coaxial cable for TV M-F extensions? This is the reason why ask to know if maybe there is a suggested brand or any recommendation to extend the original factory cable.

Thank you

Is the unit in another room?  My problem on my Metcal MX-500 is the cable is TOO long.  I wish it and the cable for my Hakko FX-951 were shorter.

[coerrace]

Yes not exactly other room but a little distant. The unit is located in one intended area for that where I have other tools but the work table is not there and I only to extend just a little.

[chucksticks]

Anyone know or suggest a cable extension to use between the hand MX-H1-AV and the metcal 5200? Where I will have located the unit I need only like a 15-30 inches more than the default cable maybe. I see the metcal factory cable is a kind of F connector but maybe could work with a simple coaxial cable for TV M-F extensions? This is the reason why ask to know if maybe there is a suggested brand or any recommendation to extend the original factory cable.

Thank you

Here's an interesting thread on DIY Metcal here on eevblog:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-metcal-13-56-mhz-rf-supply/?all

Towards reply #164 is when they discuss some about the cable although I haven't read through the thread yet.

[coerrace]

Anyone know or suggest a cable extension to use between the hand MX-H1-AV and the metcal 5200? Where I will have located the unit I need only like a 15-30 inches more than the default cable maybe. I see the metcal factory cable is a kind of F connector but maybe could work with a simple coaxial cable for TV M-F extensions? This is the reason why ask to know if maybe there is a suggested brand or any recommendation to extend the original factory cable.

Thank you

Here's an interesting thread on DIY Metcal here on eevblog:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-metcal-13-56-mhz-rf-supply/?all

Towards reply #164 is when they discuss some about the cable although I haven't read through the thread yet.

Thank you

[connectionvalidationman]

The Metcal iron cord is 72 inches for a reason. The cord length is based on the physics of the operating frequency and its wavelength. You could make a short extension and most likely not affect performance, but make it too long and the system may not meet your soldering expectations.

[Monkeh]

The Metcal iron cord is 72 inches for a reason. The cord length is based on the physics of the operating frequency and its wavelength. You could make a short extension and most likely not affect performance, but make it too long and the system may not meet your soldering expectations.

It's 72 inches because 72 inches is six feet, and six feet is a nominal length in the US.. The exact length of the cable is almost certainly not a factor in performance.

They made switches which add at least a couple feet to the length - nobody seems to have performance issues with those.

[macboy]

The Metcal iron cord is 72 inches for a reason. The cord length is based on the physics of the operating frequency and its wavelength. You could make a short extension and most likely not affect performance, but make it too long and the system may not meet your soldering expectations.

It's 72 inches because 72 inches is six feet, and six feet is a nominal length in the US.. The exact length of the cable is almost certainly not a factor in performance.

They made switches which add at least a couple feet to the length - nobody seems to have performance issues with those.

The wavelength of the ~13 MHz ish signal in coax is many times longer than the ~ 2 m cable. I agree that a person could extend with some 75 ohm coax and F connectors without issue.

[Reckless]

I have a MX500 and its not as nice as the MX5200.  Thinking about buying a FX-100 as its much cheaper.  Not sure if its worth double the price for a metcal if they are both using same technology.  Is it same level of power output? 

[helius]

I have a MX500 and its not as nice as the MX5200.  Thinking about buying a FX-100 as its much cheaper.  Not sure if its worth double the price for a metcal if they are both using same technology.  Is it same level of power output? 

Power output comparisons are especially difficult for induction systems, but the MX5200 datasheet says it puts 80 watts into two channels simultaneously. The Hakko FX-100 datasheet says it puts 50 watts into one channel. The FX-100 has some kind of temperature boost setting, which gives it a little more functionality compared to the Metcal. However, it also has Hakko's well-known awkward and overcomplicated button interface (as on the FX-951, FR-810, FM-206...) which many operators will want to throw at the wall.

[Reckless]

I ordered one FX-100 and will see how it compares to the MX5200.  Wondering about the Quick 202D model as its super cheap but don't think its true induction soldering iron. 

[thm_w]

Power output comparisons are especially difficult for induction systems, but the MX5200 datasheet says it puts 80 watts into two channels simultaneously. The Hakko FX-100 datasheet says it puts 50 watts into one channel. The FX-100 has some kind of temperature boost setting, which gives it a little more functionality compared to the Metcal. However, it also has Hakko's well-known awkward and overcomplicated button interface (as on the FX-951, FR-810, FM-206...) which many operators will want to throw at the wall.

Its 40Wx2 or 80Wx1.
The difference between 40 or 50W and 80W is not much, unless you are working with high thermal demand applications. General soldering will be using <20W.

I ordered one FX-100 and will see how it compares to the MX5200.  Wondering about the Quick 202D model as its super cheap but don't think its true induction soldering iron. 

Quick202D uses true induction, but its 400kHz so not directly compatible with the 13MHz Fx100/mx5200.
Also the heater coil is not in the tip, its in the handle. Similar to the budget tips on the latest Metcal stations, which are also 400kHz.

Clone Hakko tips are incredibly cheap, $10/ea. Metcal tips are about $20/ea.

[Reckless]

We do solder brass parts on the circuit boards. 

Does frequency matter?  I checked my solder robot came with Quick 205H 150W soldering stations.  I need to buy different wand (can't find part number).  I think its induction heating.  Not sure what H means and what difference is between 202/203/204/205.  Does Quick have a manufacturer website?  I came across a poland website but was missing a number of models. 

[thm_w]

I don't think frequency is really that important on its own.
Here is a PS5000 for $175: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/255165318121

[Reckless]

What is the difference between PS-5000 and PS-5200? 

[thm_w]

What is the difference between PS-5000 and PS-5200?

PS5200 can power both ports at the same time, PS5000 only one port at a time.