Weller TC202D soldering iron temp/tip

[vjekobalas]

Saw there's some very experienced people via thread "Weller TC202 with TC201
iron, what tips?" and was hoping for some advice regarding iron temp and tip to use.
 
I have a very old Weller TC202D 60W 240V 50Hz (made in Australia)
soldering iron with TCP-I 24V 2A handle from around 1980 when I
started uni. I broke the original plug on the iron years ago and replaced the
whole assembly with a metal XLR type plug/socket with release button.

I now live in Croatia where the voltage is 230V 50Hz. The soldering iron works
(clicking on/off) but I'm not sure whether the difference in voltage has significant
effect (or maybe I'm using the wrong tip - TP0 7 - very pointed for fine work).

Today I wanted to disconnect some thin wires on a circuit board
and found that on a larger solder joint, even after seconds the
iron did not melt the solder so I stopped. Any pointers ?

[vjekobalas]

I opened the XLR connector and see 26.2V on/ 21.8V off - would
that be in the ballpark/ok on 230V i.e. it is working properly
and I should focus on getting the right shape/size tip ?

Is there such a thing as an optimum shape/size/temp tip for soldering
and de-soldering components like resistors and slightly
thicker stranded wire ?

[srb1954]

Saw there's some very experienced people via thread "Weller TC202 with TC201
iron, what tips?" and was hoping for some advice regarding iron temp and tip to use.
 
I have a very old Weller TC202D 60W 240V 50Hz (made in Australia)
soldering iron with TCP-I 24V 2A handle from around 1980 when I
started uni. I broke the original plug on the iron years ago and replaced the
whole assembly with a metal XLR type plug/socket with release button.

I now live in Croatia where the voltage is 230V 50Hz. The soldering iron works
(clicking on/off) but I'm not sure whether the difference in voltage has significant
effect (or maybe I'm using the wrong tip - TP0 7 - very pointed for fine work).

Today I wanted to disconnect some thin wires on a circuit board
and found that on a larger solder joint, even after seconds the
iron did not melt the solder so I stopped. Any pointers ?

The minor difference in the mains voltage won't make any difference to the performance of the iron as long as the temperature regulation is working. The fact that you can hear the iron clicking means that the temperature regulation is probably working. The magnetically activated switch inside the handle can sometimes fail but that fault should be very obvious with iron either being stone cold or extremely overheated.

The fine pointed conical tips are almost useless for general soldering applications. Far better heat transfer can be obtained with a flatted chisel or screw driver tip. A 1.6mm wide tip is good for most light duty soldering while a wider tip is sometimes necessary for soldering heavy switch tags and connectors.

[vjekobalas]

OK, got the new solder tip (found 2.4mm chisel nearby) and everything seems to work OK.
One last question - does the surface of the heater which comes in contact
with the soldering bit need to be cleaned in any way - it's slightly oxidized/corroded
from heat/use etc. ?

[srb1954]

OK, got the new solder tip (found 2.4mm chisel nearby) and everything seems to work OK.
One last question - does the surface of the heater which comes in contact
with the soldering bit need to be cleaned in any way - it's slightly oxidized/corroded
from heat/use etc. ?

It shouldn't be necessary to clean the tip where it is enclosed within the iron barrel. Some discolouration of the tip is normal, particularly for the higher temperature versions. There shouldn't be any corrosion unless the tip has been sitting in water for a period. The plating on the tips is iron so it rusts if exposed to water for any significant time.

It is important not to file the tip or abrade it with a wire brush or abrasive paper. Doing so might damage the iron plating and expose the copper core of the tip, which will erode way quite rapidly where it is in contact with the solder.

[vjekobalas]

I meant the heater - when you remove the soldering tip and look into the
barrel, you see the surface which comes in contact with the soldering tip to heat it

[srb1954]

I meant the heater - when you remove the soldering tip and look into the
barrel, you see the surface which comes in contact with the soldering tip to heat it

Discolouration or slight corrosion inside the heater barrel shouldn't be a problem as the tip isn't in direct contact with the sides of the barrel and is normally a slightly loose fit.

If any corrosion is severe enough such that the tip is a tight fit in the barrel then you could try brushing out any loose debris. Do not use any abrasive materials to dislodge more stubborn corrosion as this could damage the heater element.

If that doesn't fix the problem then you will need to replace the heater/barrel assembly.

[R.J.]

Maybe some pictures will give a better clue?

[2N3055]

Vjeko,

standard failure mode for old Magnastat Wellers is contact oxidation/damage on magnetic switch.
Contacts develop resistance, and there is no full power applied to heater. It will still regulate at idle but have no power..

If you carefully disassemble handle part (mind the wires) you will see contact part of Magnastat switch. Switch can be replaced by itself. It is very expensive, you can buy complete well working modern chinese soldering stations for the price. You might try measuring contacts, and if they have resistance, try to remove switch, carefully open the switch cover and try to see if you can clean them. In my experience not very likely to succeed, but if you have nothing to lose, you might as well try....