A look at the Uni-T UT210E

[Aldo22]

I hope I am not drifting off here... Has anyone tried the Ziboo UT210E?

Apparently DC mA range starts at 1mA, though accuracy is stated at 3%+30. Does this mean that if say 5mA is displayed, this could also mean 35mA?

I don't know the Ziboo, but in general it's not that bad.
The Owon CM2100 has ±(2%+8dig) in the specifications, but if you “zero” it properly, it gives reasonable measurements.

[brainwash]

You can demagnetize the head and calibrate via the small trimmer inside if I remember correctly, it was described in this thread somewhere. Anyway you still need to zero it if you are measuring one wire from a bundle in a power distribution panel.
The switch on mine also went bad after many years, got into a habit of flipping it back and forth a few times. Also the unit turns off when its face or dial are pressed in. Otherwise still a good meter.

[multiJ]

I have a UT210E for ~3-4 years now and thought of making the mod (esp to turn on in DC mode by default). Printed manual included states 2019 Rev. 3. I opened it up and there are no markings on the chip. Rather interestingly chip surface seems slightly sanded. Is there a chance that the chip is something other than DM1106EN and have issues after flashing? Thanks. 

[cybermaus]

Read the flash first, and check if the content is as expected with all the ones shown in this thread.
That is a requirement anyway, you should only attempt write after you know your wiring is good and you can successfully read.

And the read is as expected, you now have a backup copy and can always go back.

[multiJ]

I will order now the hardware to read the flash and give it a go 

[CharlotteSwiss]

I have the UT210e in question, and I'd like to modify the e-prom. I'm attaching a photo of my board: I see a CZ1 connector. Question: is it possible to read/write the memory without unsoldering the chip? What equipment should I buy? I imagine a connector for those 5 pins, plus an e-prom memory reader? Thanks.

[cybermaus]

Please refer to page 20 of this thread.

[joeqsmith]

Please refer to page 20 of this thread.

Or page 4

[CharlotteSwiss]

I looked at pages 4 and 20: three different programmers were used for reading/writing: AllMax+ (old), CH341A, and TL866A.
I'm new to programming and have never used a programmer. I'd be inclined to get a TL866 (I understand he is a very popular programmer).
As for connecting the programmer to the CZ1 port, I can't figure out which adapters I should get (and where to buy them). Thanks.

Curious: shouldn't an EPROM be inaccessible to the public? Don't they put a password? Or is that a Uni-T strategy? Thanks.

-----------------------------

I'd add that the breadboard wires can fit into the holes if you want, but they have a little play. The ideal solution would be to use board headers, but the ones I have have a 2.5mm pitch (while the CZ1 pins have a 2mm pitch)

[joeqsmith]

My AllMax sadly died when the house had a surge as a result of a lightning strike on one of our trees.   It had several PALs and without any documentation, it went to the recycle bin.   Replaced it with one of those cheap programmers you mention.  For this purpose, it's not critical and should work fine.   

For the clip, you could try something low cost, and assembled. 
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5315

[CharlotteSwiss]

Thanks joeqsmith. For the programmer, I'll opt for a TL866. The clip you suggested goes directly onto the chip, but there needs to be room around it to clamp it; perhaps osc1 might get in the way? Anyway, I'll check the usual Chinese e-commerce site to see if I can find something suitable.

-----

I just watched this video, where he says he had problems with the clip, and instead used a 2mm pitch socket (as mentioned above), connecting it to the CZ1 contacts.

(from minute 3:57)
I'll try to find a cable like that, or I'll take the 2mm pitch headers and fit five wires to them.

[cybermaus]

The clip is very finicky. Also very fragile. It has tiny plastic hooks that easily damage. But it is possible.
You could indeed also get some pogo-pin based clip. Have not used these myself.

If you truly never programmed before, maybe you should get an empty unsoldered atmel 24c02 chip and see if you can read and program it.
It would separate the skillset of using the programmer from also keeping the clip and wiring connected while keeping your tongue at the right angle.
Just program some random bytes into it and read them back.

Edit: something like this: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003937748732.html
Disclaimer, I never used those, I have a (worn) clip, that I also have to keep pressing with my hands.

[cybermaus]

Also I see there is a 5 pin programming header next to the IC. I think you only need the 5 pins, the others are all set to ground.
I vaguely recall I did that for one of my multimeters as well.

Curious: shouldn't an EPROM be inaccessible to the public? Don't they put a password? Or is that a Uni-T strategy? Thanks.

The EEPROM is just a blank paper. No mechanism for password. So if you read/write the EEPROM itself, it cannot be password protected.
It can be encrypted, but the EEPROM would not even know, it is just bytes to be stored.

However, if you program through an interface, a GUI, or a USB, or anything with a processor, then it depends on the programming, it can be anything they can think of, all the way up to the cloud connected protection that Dave/Louis are so found of. /clippy mode on

[CharlotteSwiss]

The clip is very finicky. Also very fragile. It has tiny plastic hooks that easily damage. But it is possible.
You could indeed also get some pogo-pin based clip. Have not used these myself.

If you truly never programmed before, maybe you should get an empty unsoldered atmel 24c02 chip and see if you can read and program it.
It would separate the skillset of using the programmer from also keeping the clip and wiring connected while keeping your tongue at the right angle.
Just program some random bytes into it and read them back.

Edit: something like this: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003937748732.html
Disclaimer, I never used those, I have a (worn) clip, that I also have to keep pressing with my hands.

It's true, I've never programmed, but I'd like to start, and this seemed like the right time. I also have an Arduino, but unfortunately I haven't tried it yet; maybe it could do something on that chip (even just read data...). Now that I remember better, years ago I programmed the chip for a TV card, but I barely remember anything.
The link you provided doesn't open...
Anyway, the programmer was already on my list of purchases; I just need to figure out which version of the TL866 would be best. I see different abbreviations... (II, III, A...); I'll let the kit with numerous adapters go; it's expensive, and I prefer to buy the necessary adapters as needed. Thanks.

[CharlotteSwiss]

Also I see there is a 5 pin programming header next to the IC. I think you only need the 5 pins, the others are all set to ground.
I vaguely recall I did that for one of my multimeters as well.
(Attachment Link)

Curious: shouldn't an EPROM be inaccessible to the public? Don't they put a password? Or is that a Uni-T strategy? Thanks.

The EEPROM is just a blank paper. No mechanism for password. So if you read/write the EEPROM itself, it cannot be password protected.
It can be encrypted, but the EEPROM would not even know, it is just bytes to be stored.

However, if you program through an interface, a GUI, or a USB, or anything with a processor, then it depends on the programming, it can be anything they can think of, all the way up to the cloud connected protection that Dave/Louis are so found of. /clippy mode on

Thanks for the password explanation.
Exactly, next to the chip there are 5 CZ1 contacts. I'd like to connect to these (2mm pitch).

[geralds]

For connecting directly to CZ1 see: https://youtu.be/Vj6b-clYTis?t=277

If you intend to use the clip more often, and don't mind spending a bit more, I understand the Pomona 5250 shd be of decent quality https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Pomona-Electronics/5250?qs=q2OAyjihNMzqkARxZuX5AQ%3D%3D

There are numerous YT videos on programming the UT210E.
And there is also a possibly helpful tool: https://adlerweb.github.io/UT210E-Calculator/

Maybe this helps.

[CharlotteSwiss]

For connecting directly to CZ1 see: https://youtu.be/Vj6b-clYTis?t=277

If you intend to use the clip more often, and don't mind spending a bit more, I understand the Pomona 5250 shd be of decent quality https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Pomona-Electronics/5250?qs=q2OAyjihNMzqkARxZuX5AQ%3D%3D

There are numerous YT videos on programming the UT210E.
And there is also a possibly helpful tool: https://adlerweb.github.io/UT210E-Calculator/

Maybe this helps.

The video is the same one I posted in a previous post.
That Pomona clip looks good, but aren't the cables to the programmer included? Or does it have special connectors to plug them in?
Thanks for the link, interesting.

[joeqsmith]

Using the header seems like a much better approach than clipping over the IC.  I had to shave down the ends of my clip to get it to make contact, then hold it in place.

[CharlotteSwiss]

No doubt, I'm looking for something to connect to the 5 CZ1 pins. For example, I've already inserted 5 single wires (the ones for breadboards, however, have a little play, and the plastic terminal is also too wide). Thanks.

[RoGeorge]

They are only a couple of wires, don't sweat too much about that.

Just solder some wire-wrap/bodge-wires directly to the EEPROM pins, then desolder them after programming.  Won't take more than 5 minutes.

Would certainly take less time than looking up/searching online for the right ZIF clamp, then order/pay, then wait for it to arrive, unpack and close the deal, check the wire order when programming, maybe trim the clam to fit the PCB, be disappointed with the contacts, etc. 

ZIF sockets and connectors make sense when one needs to program hundreds of units.
For one unit, nothing can beat the speed and reliability of a soldered wire. 

[geralds]

Not sure whether any of the following would work (2mm pitch, 5 positions):
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Samtec/MTMM-105-09-T-S-365?qs=u16ybLDytRZizYktyLrLDQ%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/NorComp/27630502RP2?qs=TaIhzdgpGpVBX5jsrVFKUQ%3D%3D

I am actually looking for a similar solution myself (though I won't be able to look into this much further for the next few weeks).

I would expect to use simply Dupont cables to connect to the programmer (again, haven't tested it yet). Same for the clip (whether Pomona or others). Unless cable is included with programmer and can be used accordingly.

[joeqsmith]

They are only a couple of wires, don't sweat too much about that.

Just solder some wire-wrap/bodge-wires directly to the EEPROM pins, then desolder them after programming.  Won't take more than 5 minutes.

Would certainly take less time than looking up/searching online for the right ZIF clamp, then order/pay, then wait for it to arrive, unpack and close the deal, check the wire order when programming, maybe trim the clam to fit the PCB, be disappointed with the contacts, etc. 

ZIF sockets and connectors make sense when one needs to program hundreds of units.
For one unit, nothing can beat the speed and reliability of a soldered wire. 

The clamp works find for a one off but if I were making hundreds, I would be buying the parts preprogrammed or using something else.  It's not a real good solution but I have used it over the years for various projects.   

Solders fine assuming person knows how to solder and has the skills.  Not everyone does, and they end up causing damage. 

[CharlotteSwiss]

They are only a couple of wires, don't sweat too much about that.

Just solder some wire-wrap/bodge-wires directly to the EEPROM pins, then desolder them after programming.  Won't take more than 5 minutes.

Would certainly take less time than looking up/searching online for the right ZIF clamp, then order/pay, then wait for it to arrive, unpack and close the deal, check the wire order when programming, maybe trim the clam to fit the PCB, be disappointed with the contacts, etc. 

ZIF sockets and connectors make sense when one needs to program hundreds of units.
For one unit, nothing can beat the speed and reliability of a soldered wire. 

I hadn't considered this solution, and it should be easy to do on the five CZ1 pin pads. For example, by inserting some male DuPont cables and a little soldering. I'm keeping it as an option; now I have to order the TL866, and they usually provide some cables. We'll see, thanks.

Not sure whether any of the following would work (2mm pitch, 5 positions):
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Samtec/MTMM-105-09-T-S-365?qs=u16ybLDytRZizYktyLrLDQ%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/NorComp/27630502RP2?qs=TaIhzdgpGpVBX5jsrVFKUQ%3D%3D

I am actually looking for a similar solution myself (though I won't be able to look into this much further for the next few weeks).

I would expect to use simply Dupont cables to connect to the programmer (again, haven't tested it yet). Same for the clip (whether Pomona or others). Unless cable is included with programmer and can be used accordingly.

The ones you suggested on Mouser are definitely fine in my opinion, of course it also depends on the thickness of the pin (the male DuPont I have wobbles slightly.

They are only a couple of wires, don't sweat too much about that.

Just solder some wire-wrap/bodge-wires directly to the EEPROM pins, then desolder them after programming.  Won't take more than 5 minutes.

Would certainly take less time than looking up/searching online for the right ZIF clamp, then order/pay, then wait for it to arrive, unpack and close the deal, check the wire order when programming, maybe trim the clam to fit the PCB, be disappointed with the contacts, etc. 

ZIF sockets and connectors make sense when one needs to program hundreds of units.
For one unit, nothing can beat the speed and reliability of a soldered wire. 

The clamp works find for a one off but if I were making hundreds, I would be buying the parts preprogrammed or using something else.  It's not a real good solution but I have used it over the years for various projects.   

Solders fine assuming person knows how to solder and has the skills.  Not everyone does, and they end up causing damage. 

I wouldn't have any problems soldering the five wires, but of course they'll need to be unsoldered. Obviously, I'd prefer a soldering-free solution. In the meantime, I need to find the TL866 (preferably not a kit...), and I need to figure out which is the most recent model. Thanks.

---------------
Note: The programmer I'm ordering is the T48, not the T866, which is no longer supported. I'm ordering it without accessories; I'll find a home-made solution to connect to the EPROM. Thanks 

[CharlotteSwiss]

I soldered five pins to the holes on CZ1. Now connecting to the EPROM will be very easy and safe. I won't remove them once I'm done modifying them, they fit perfectly inside the case. For the EPROM modification, I'll try playing with it using the Arduino via IC2; it'll be a great opportunity to learn something.

[multiJ]

Read the flash first, and check if the content is as expected with all the ones shown in this thread.
That is a requirement anyway, you should only attempt write after you know your wiring is good and you can successfully read.

And the read is as expected, you now have a backup copy and can always go back.

It worked. Used a CH341A programmer and followed the instructions in the previous pages here. Used the UT210E EEPROM Calculator https://adlerweb.github.io/UT210E-Calculator/ to make the changes. Many thanks to all