AN8008 US $19, 9999count, 1uV, 0.01uA, 0.01Ohm, 1pF resolution meter

[b_force]

there is still a lot available on ebay btw.

If you want fast shipping, simply don't order on Ebay/overseas. 

It's almost as if you haven't been reading the last two pages of this thread... 

But yes, I'm sure one will turn up eventually if you order today.

I did, but my general experience is that Ebay/China takes somewhere between 2 - 5/6 weeks.
So I don't get all the complains to be very honest.

[Fungus]

So I don't get all the complains to be very honest.

That's true.

[floobydust]

I think if you re-solder the 0.01R shunt or fuse, you risk changing the Amps calibration. It's not the greatest PCB layout.
There is a calibration procedure, poorly translated: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/cheap-aneng-meter-calibrationreset-procedure/
You can cal only one function and skip others. I haven't tried it.

[bitseeker]

It's been nearly a month since Dave's video and I still can't find anyone selling them that's located in the US. I guess I'll have to buy one from China.

Sounds like an opportunity. Buy a boatload at a discount and be the first US reseller.

[Gandalf_Sr]

I'm willing to attempt a recalibration but the instruction linked above are pretty vague, can anyone give detailed steps on how to calibrate the AN8008 specifically?

[rdl]

It's been nearly a month since Dave's video and I still can't find anyone selling them that's located in the US. I guess I'll have to buy one from China.

Sounds like an opportunity. Buy a boatload at a discount and be the first US reseller.

I did consider it, but instead just ordered one from China. Supposedly it has shipped and will be here in two or three weeks.

I've sold quite a bit of stuff on ebay and in general I think it's more trouble than it's worth. I have a large pile of stuff right now I should sell, but I just can't seem to convince myself to make the effort.

[bitseeker]

It's been nearly a month since Dave's video and I still can't find anyone selling them that's located in the US. [snip]

[snip] Buy a boatload at a discount and be the first US reseller.

I did consider it, but instead just ordered one from China. [snip]

I've sold quite a bit of stuff on ebay and in general I think it's more trouble than it's worth. [snip]

It is troublesome and I was being facetious, hence the smiley. The margins wouldn't be worth the headache, fees, etc., and domestic shipping cost would blow the deal out of the water. So, everyone still has to buy directly from China.

[Fungus]

I have a large pile of stuff right now I should sell, but I just can't seem to convince myself to make the effort.

Just take a photo of the pile and post it in the "for sale" section.

[Crumble]

I wouldn't bother if the stuff is worth little, usually you'll just wind up having unreliable or picky customers and wasting a ton of time satisfying their needs (or arguing with them about how you won't). I recently tried to sell some perfectly fine stuff (mainly electronics) for low prices, and wound up with customers wanting me to bring it over for free. You may want to add a very explicit comment about what you are and are not prepared to do. Another buyer asked me to send a bench meter over (which I did), but this added more packaging costs and work than I initially expected. In the end I wasted quite some time to get the proper packaging materials and getting the thing arranged, eroding the advantage over just binning stuff. I came to accept I'll have to hand in most stuff I lost a use for to the 2nd hand store for free for it to have a future use.

I got my AN8008 in about 3 weeks from China to The Netherlands, I have no issues with that. When stuff comes over from China it just takes time. Took me $19 from seller qualityzoneonline. It seems to be as accurate as any of yours (but I don't have any reference standards, but it somehow agrees with most other meter I have). I am kind of happy with the functionality of the meter. An extra digit of resolution in the low Ohms is quite useful too for measuring shunts and the likes. Up to now the only meter I had that could do that was a Gossen Metrawatt Metrahit One, which is actually more of an electricians meter than an electronics meter. The Aneng seems to have its track/contact resistances pre-nulled because it actually shows a short as 0.00Ohm. I especially like how it complements the AN8002. Together they can measure almost every common quantity with an appropriate accuracy and resolution.

[Gandalf_Sr]

AN8008 CALIBRATION BASICS
I've figured out how to do calibration although I don't have the finer details worked out.  Here's what I know...

1. Short out J1 on the PCB (it's at the top right corner as you look at the PCB from the back of the meter)
2. Get your calibration reference ready and connected - in my case a 300 mA DC feed through the mA/A terminal and Common
3. Turn rotary control from off to the resistance position and CAL will appear on the display
3. Now WAIT until you hear a beep and then move the rotary control to the mA/A position - if you turn the rotary control away from resistance too quickly it doesn't show the values you've selected but moving the rotary switch around corrects that
4. Press [Set/Hold] (orange) button repeatedly until you see DC mA and a value will be displayed
5. Now you should see a value close to what you're providing the meter with, around 300 mA DC in my case
6. Press the [Range] (blue) button (quick press) to range down (but it only does it in 0.1 A increments)
7. Press and hold the [Range] (blue) button (long press) to range up (but it only does it in 0.1 A increments)
8. Press [Set/Hold] (orange) button to move off that setting (I think this is when the cal change just made is saved)
9. Move the rotary switch to off
10. Clear the link on J1 and power back on and test

As far as I can tell, the trick is to set the input to an exact value like 300 mA so you can set that value on the display during cal because you can't adjust the display to 303 mA so, for my slight discrepancy, I saw 298 mA displayed, I ranged down - I saw 200 mA, and then ,with a long press of [Range], ranged up and then I saw 300 mA displayed, pressed the orange button again and I was done.  Other parameters can be set by pressing the [Set/Hold] (orange) button repeatedly but you'll only see values corresponding to the rotary position selected so you'd leave it in the resistance position to cycle through the measurements associated with that position including resistance.

What I'm not clear about is when it actually stores a new calibration value, I guess that, once you use the [Range] (blue) button, it changes the calibration for that setting, and I think it saves it when - having got the display to show the value you want, you press the orange button once more. 

At first I did my above procedure providing 300 mA but ranged down to display 100 mA  and couldn't change that value because I hadn't figured out that a long press ranges up by that point.  So when I then switched off and removed the link, it had calibrated the meter to display 100 mA when 300 mA was supplied which it did.  I had to re-calibrate after I figured out that the long press increases the displayed value.

[rdl]

It is troublesome and I was being facetious, hence the smiley.
...

Yeah, I realized that. I just thought I'd mention that, for a moment at least, I had seriously considered it. Luckily I came to my senses. Anyway, mine has apparently shipped. The tracking number shows it in transit with delivery next Wednesday.

[bitseeker]

Hehe, it's all good. Enjoy the meter!

[Gandalf_Sr]

I calibrated my AN8008's DC uA range today after finding it was way off - it read 89 uA when actual was 100 uA - the error may have been because a) I re-soldered the fuse holders and shunts on the PCB b) I may have messed it up by calibrating the other DC current ranges or c) both a and b. 

I used a 9V battery fed through a decade box and then my Keysight 34461A in series with the AN8008, I was able to set 90 uA with the 34461A reading 90.001 uA and then used my calibration process above to set 90 uA (it wouldn't do 100 uA) on the AN8008.  Comparison tests after doing this showed perfect alignment between the 2 meters, even at 2 uA DC.

[firworks]

I might be dumb and have just missed it reading through all the pages, but what is the burden voltage on this meter as far as a mV/mA estimate?

[evava]

There are just two shunts, 100Ohm and 0.01Ohm (about 0.03Ohm across the terminals because of fuse), which meter uses for 99.99uA(lowest range) resp. 9999mA(highest range).
If I calculate it correctly, that means 10mV/0.1mA resp. 100mV/10000mA (300mV/10000mA across terminals)

There are other ranges, but they use one of these two shunts.

[tungsten2k]

For those concerned about stock, I ordered 7/20 and received 8/14 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AN8008-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-9999-Counts-Square-Wave-AC-DC-Volt-Am-550V/322593677450?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Of course they did the whole "We have arranged a small gift to appreciate your order" trick with tracking to cover their backs if late, but all worked out.  I did send them an "if you send a package of a useless gift without the meter I will file claim with paypal and leave 1-star review" pre-emptive message so YMMV.

About 0.3mV high at 3.3v compared to my calibrated 189 so certainly more than good enough to replace my bulky (by comparison) 70iii for my field toolbox with a nice little resolution upgrade.  Signal generator feature is humourous but 1040z shows it's pretty sharp.  Maybe if Trump starts a nuke war with N. Korea while I'm out at Burningman, I might have to build a switchmode PS out of junk on the side of the road, and that feature might come in handy

[Mr. Scram]

Why is everyone so worried about stock? I ordered the very cheapest I could find on Ebay and received my multimeter in eight days. That might be one of the fastest deliveries I've ever had the pleasure of receiving when ordering from The Far Off Lands.

First impressions are decent. The biggest surprise is the size, or the lack of it. It's so tiny! When I opened the package I didn't expect it to be the multimeter, due to the small size of the parcel, even though I knew it's not a big multimeter.

The construction seems okay. Though the plastic is nothing special, the case is very sturdy. I've had much more expensive items with much more creaky cases. A metal insert is used for the battery compartment screw, which is a nice detail. However, the tilting bale does not instil a lot of confidence. It might do the job, but it is thin, flexible and rattly and feels like it might break easily. Interestingly, it looks like there was text on the bale which got removed from the mould later. It looks like the remnants of a "C" can be seen on the left of the bale. You cannot use the rotary switch with one hand when it's on the tilting bale. The rotary knob is half decent. Not the worst, but certainly also not the best feeling one I've come across.

Both normal and modular leads are supplied. Even though the regular leads won't be mistaken for expensive ones, they are fairly flexible and therefore usable. Probe sharpness also seems to be good. The modular leads are cheap and nothing special.

Confirming what I have read on the forums, the backlight of the LCD does turn off after a minute or so. Not ideal, but it will prevent the batteries from running down too quickly. The LCD itself has a good contrast when looking at it from below. However, contrast starts to fade when perpendicular to the screen and quickly fades to nothing when looking at it from above.

So far, I'm not disappointed. It could use a nice boot and a better tilting bale, but what are you going to do.

[joseph nicholas]

I like your comments on the AN8008.  I suspect this won't last more than a few years at best.  If you want robust try the MF-47 in kit form. The bale will break and probabily the leads will come apart.  For sure there  are tons of these available and probabily the price will come down.  Hasta luego.

[Naguissa]

I recieved mine a week ago and its fine for me to work win 3.3 and 5v. It matches my very old UNI-T, from when I was in secondary, even at capacity.

I like it for the price.

Enviado desde mi Jolla mediante Tapatalk

[rdl]

I received mine today. It was ordered through ebay on August 6, so just two weeks to arrive. I've only given it a quick check so far, but a 9 volt battery read 9.312 which my Fluke 87-III read as 9.31 volts. I'm thinking this will become my main bench top meter, since it's so much smaller and less clunky than the Fluke.

[floobydust]

Who the hell actually holds a multimeter in one hand?

I'm gonna make a stand for it, it's just hell to prop up and keeps falling down and the LCD glare is means you have to keep moving it around to read the display.
I think a 60 degree wood block and coat-hanger wire to fit into the bail? Or maybe slide it into a mount.

Any ideas?

[ebastler]

Who the hell actually holds a multimeter in one hand?
I'm gonna make a stand for it [...]

This being a very compact meter, adding a bulky stand would defeat the purpose for me. I expect to use this when travelling, or when working outside or in the garage.

I might glue a magnet to the back to allow for hands-free operation when working on the car or bike. Or I might actually hold it in one hand (which is much preferred over holding it in two hands).

[Mr. Scram]

Who the hell actually holds a multimeter in one hand?

I'm gonna make a stand for it, it's just hell to prop up and keeps falling down and the LCD glare is means you have to keep moving it around to read the display.
I think a 60 degree wood block and coat-hanger wire to fit into the bail? Or maybe slide it into a mount.

Any ideas?

Putting it on the bag or adding some rubber feet should allow you to operate it with one hand. The screen contrast is excellent when looking at it from below, so putting it on the table without the tilting bale should work fine. If you want to do a measurement and just need to look at it, you can always put it up.

[joseph nicholas]

Lets face it the AN8008 just another piece of junk.  Why split hairs over this? 

[Mr. Scram]

Lets face it the AN8008 just another piece of junk.  Why split hairs over this?

Why do you think it is a piece of junk? If you forget about mains voltages and the tilting bale, it does things that only much more expensive multimeters do.

Even the most expensive tools have their limitations. It is up to the workman to use them wisely.