AN8008 US $19, 9999count, 1uV, 0.01uA, 0.01Ohm, 1pF resolution meter

[rdl]

I actually considered hot gluing mine to the front of a shelf, but it would get in the way of other stuff too much I think.

How will you change the battery?

At the moment, it's been running non-stop (auto power off disabled) for over 10 days. I'd estimate that when used normally I could easily get 3-6 months before needing to recharge the batteries. While it wouldn't be much trouble to peel it off and re-glue it that infrequently, I decided it would be impractical for other reasons.

[prof]

Doesn't matter how they do it. My point is it's better than the Fluke despite operating under worse conditions. 

Surely it's interesting to know what's happening?

Thanks for free education, I guess. But it's not like I haven't implemented my own LED testers before. There was also a LED tester as a Boldport project a short while ago: https://www.boldport.com/products/ligemdio/

Anyway, my point is that there is a misconception that the diode test voltage is equal to the battery voltage.

I never claimed that. I only said it works better than my Fluke (17B+) despite running on a lower input voltage.
Just FYI, I just measured the current (using a third DMM of course), the Fluke allows 0.165mA while the Aneng will supply 0.765mA; the Aneng also shows a higher Forward voltage of 1.95V which should be closer to reality than the Fluke which reads 1.83V but I'm too lazy to really measure that LED right now.

Anyway, I can't (easily) change the internal implementation so I have to accept it as it is.

So far I found the Aneng to be a remarkable device for what it is. I've also tested the speed of the continuity tester now and it is a lot quicker than the Fluke (using the same Brymen probes) as well; with this little device I can swipe swiftly over pads on the board without missing the connection(s) where the Fluke needs a much slower motion. It would be great if it would unlatch a bit quicker though...

[kalel]

Thanks for free education, I guess. But it's not like I haven't implemented my own LED testers before. There was also a LED tester as a Boldport project a short while ago: https://www.boldport.com/products/ligemdio/

I like the project. Maybe you could implement a DIY continuity checker as well?

The "LED tester" I use is a 9v battery (improvised holder) with 2 resistors (one on positive and one negative which slightly distributes the minimal heating). That is the simplest to make, and works with "dead" 9v batteries well enough.

This limits the 'maximum current', but does not provide equal current at different forward voltage, so a constant current is always more optimal (but not always necessary to see if an LED works).

[Fungus]

I like the project. Maybe you could implement a DIY continuity checker as well?

I've thought about this a few times. I'd want one with a light on the probe.

The multimeter seems like a fundamentally wrong way to test continuity IMHO. The only we do it that way is that there's already a battery powered device with two wires attached to it on our workbench.

I never bothered building one because I don't really spend much time swiping along rows of contacts.

[Mark Hennessy]

Anyway, my point is that there is a misconception that the diode test voltage is equal to the battery voltage.

I never claimed that. I only said it works better than my Fluke (17B+) despite running on a lower input voltage.

I thought it was clear enough from what I wrote, but for the sake of clarity, I never said that you made the claim, or even that you believed it. I simply said "there is a misconception", meaning that some people believe it, possibly as a result of watching Dave's review...

Thanks for telling us which Fluke you have. I don't have one of those, but have been considering picking one up to review for some time now. Or perhaps the 18B+, which has a dedicated LED test function that sources rather more than 3V, so will have an internal step-up converter of some type. Obviously, the 17B+ does not, though of course there will be something in there for the LED backlight, but they've obviously decided to keep that separate.

As for dedicated LED tester projects, I don't see any point upgrading from a resistor to a current source frankly. If you want to go beyond a simple resistor, then something like this is far more useful and interesting: http://robotroom.com/LED-Tester-Pro-1.html 

[prof]

I thought it was clear enough from what I wrote, but for the sake of clarity, I never said that you made the claim, or even that you believed it. I simply said "there is a misconception", meaning that some people believe it, possibly as a result of watching Dave's review...

Fair enough. 

Thanks for telling us which Fluke you have. I don't have one of those, but have been considering picking one up to review for some time now. Or perhaps the 18B+, which has a dedicated LED test function that sources rather more than 3V, so will have an internal step-up converter of some type. Obviously, the 17B+ does not, though of course there will be something in there for the LED backlight, but they've obviously decided to keep that separate.

I do find REL/MIN/MAX measurements and temperature much more important than a dedicated LED testing function (I already have dedicated testers, I'm just too lazy to pull it for quick checks while working on a circuit) but YMMV of course.

[Mark Hennessy]

I do find REL/MIN/MAX measurements and temperature much more important than a dedicated LED testing function (I already have dedicated testers, I'm just too lazy to pull it for quick checks while working on a circuit) but YMMV of course.

Personally, I just use a bench power supply and a resistor

The PSU is always there on the shelf, as is a range of chunky resistors and other passives that get used for lots of assorted jobs like this. A dedicated tester would take up space, require battery changes and occasional testing, calibration, etc... Overkill really, especially for such a simple task.

Certainly, I've never attached great importance to a DMM being able to light an LED in diode-test mode, especially as the test current varies so much from meter to meter, and is generally only a couple of milliamps at best. But, some reviewers do, which is why I feel I should mention it in my reviews. But then, I see a lot of folk using DMMs when really they should be using a 'scope - it sometimes feels like we're going back to the old days when many people couldn't afford a 'scope

But the dedicated LED test function on the Fluke 18B+ is interesting to me. But not for the obvious reason, however. Instead, I'm keen to see what safety precautions they've taken - because an LED tester socket on the front of a DMM is arguably no better than the transistor tester on a DT830

[ebastler]

The multimeter seems like a fundamentally wrong way to test continuity IMHO.

Could you elaborate on that please? 

[Fungus]

The multimeter seems like a fundamentally wrong way to test continuity IMHO.

Could you elaborate on that please? 

As I said earlier, I'd like one with a LED or two in the thing I'm holding in my hand. The LEDs could give much more information than a beep somewhere in the background and would be very easy to focus on as you work. Vision is much faster than sound.

[ebastler]

As I said earlier, I'd like one with a LED or two in the thing I'm holding in my hand. The LEDs could give much more information than a beep somewhere in the background and would be very easy to focus on as you work. Vision is much faster than sound.

OK -- a matter of taste, I'd say. I typically like the fact that I can fully concentrate my vision on small PCB contacts, shine a bright light on the PCB etc., and rely on the audio signal when checking for contact.

Having been a radio operator during my navy service (a while ago...), I doubt the "vision is faster than sound" bit as a general statement. Humans can certainly receive and decode morse code via audio at much faster speeds than visually!

[mnementh]

Doesn't matter how they do it. My point is it's better than the Fluke despite operating under worse conditions. 

Surely it's interesting to know what's happening?

Thanks for free education, I guess. But it's not like I haven't implemented my own LED testers before. There was also a LED tester as a Boldport project a short while ago: https://www.boldport.com/products/ligemdio/

Anyway, my point is that there is a misconception that the diode test voltage is equal to the battery voltage.

I never claimed that. I only said it works better than my Fluke (17B+) despite running on a lower input voltage.
Just FYI, I just measured the current (using a third DMM of course), the Fluke allows 0.165mA while the Aneng will supply 0.765mA; the Aneng also shows a higher Forward voltage of 1.95V which should be closer to reality than the Fluke which reads 1.83V but I'm too lazy to really measure that LED right now.

Anyway, I can't (easily) change the internal implementation so I have to accept it as it is.

So far I found the Aneng to be a remarkable device for what it is. I've also tested the speed of the continuity tester now and it is a lot quicker than the Fluke (using the same Brymen probes) as well; with this little device I can swipe swiftly over pads on the board without missing the connection(s) where the Fluke needs a much slower motion. It would be great if it would unlatch a bit quicker though...

Actually... I'd been thinking about this very thing myself; and I came to the contusion that it was worth taking a $13 gamble to see if my AN8002 could be powered by a small LiPo. I even bought a few of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/322600343728 to make it a complete solution with LVP and convenient charging in one board; just cut the divider out of the battery box and hack it all in there. Now I'll probably do it as a pretest against using the same circuit in my AN8008.



That said... after keeping the AN8002 in my little bag of dirty tricks for a while, I think the funky shape and "bar of soap" thing is a for real issue... but something best resolved with some 3D Printing abuse and a decent set of modular leads. Maybe an oversized jacket printed out of TPU with a cord-wrap and nacelles for the probes and an oversized flip-out stand... or even just cut the pretense and make it a big wedge so when you knock it off the bench it bounces... 

Cheers,


mnem
*toddles off to ded*

[Gandalf_Sr]

How accurate are everybody's AN8008s?

Mine seems to be about 4 or 5 counts high on most readings. Within spec, but not impressive.

Even my AN860B+ is much better than that.

eg. For 5V DC: AN8008 reads 5.004V, AN860B+ reads 5.000V

For 1kOhms: AN8008 reads 1003 , AN860B+ reads 1001

You can calibrate the AN8008 like I did using this process.  I don't know if I caused my inaccuracies as I 'fixed' the poor soldering around the fuse holders as soon as I got mine and that almost certainly changed the current readings, probably less so the voltage readings.

[Fungus]

I don't know if I caused my inaccuracies as I 'fixed' the poor soldering around the fuse holders as soon as I got mine and that almost certainly changed the current readings, probably less so the voltage readings.

It shouldn't do, otherwise you'd need to recalibrate every time you changed the fuse.

[mnementh]

Bang-em-good has them on sale again for $17.77 for the next 9 days (actually, until they sell out, which took about 10 hours last time) with free "Slow boat From China" shipping or 7-12 day Priority shipping for an additional 56¢.

https://www.banggood.com/ANENG-AN8008-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Current-Voltage-Resistance-Frequency-Capacitance-Test-p-1157985.html?p=GI031609948520121218

This URL has my affiliate code; it costs you nothing but I get a few affiliate points I can use to buy stuff a little cheaper. Full disclosure, etc.

https://www.banggood.com/ANENG-AN8008-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Current-Voltage-Resistance-Frequency-Capacitance-Test-p-1157985.html

This URL is completely unsullied for those purists out there.


Cheers,


mnem
Honey, where are my pa-a-a-ants?

[ez24]

I ordered one on Amazon, knowing it would be slow from China.

There are several Amazon sellers.  You can find one that has them in the Amazon warehouse and can get one in a few days (Prime member).  Mine took 3 days.  This comes from the warehouse:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JMBLJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[MacMeter]

I ordered one on Amazon, knowing it would be slow from China.

There are several Amazon sellers.  You can find one that has them in the Amazon warehouse and can get one in a few days (Prime member).  Mine took 3 days.  This comes from the warehouse:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JMBLJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wasn't an option a month a go.

[Gandalf_Sr]

I ordered one on Amazon, knowing it would be slow from China.

There are several Amazon sellers.  You can find one that has them in the Amazon warehouse and can get one in a few days (Prime member).  Mine took 3 days.  This comes from the warehouse:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JMBLJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I (and others) fell into that trap, I ordered my AN8008 from Amazon (from the seller, 'Alloete'), thinking it would ship from the US but it came from China - and took 4 weeks to get here.

[EDIT] It looks like that particular one will ship from the US... you can see this... "In Stock.. Sold by whitelotous and Fulfilled by Amazon."

At least when you order from eBay, it tells you clearly where it will ship from.  Buyer beware!

[ez24]

At least when you order from eBay, it tells you clearly where it will ship from.  Buyer beware!

I agree.    I carefully read the ad trying to figure out where it comes from.  If from China then I try Aliexpress.   But sometimes I mess up.  Amazon makes it hard to figure this out.

[metrologist]

Forgive my naivety, but what's wrong if it comes from China? Mine took about 2.5 weeks, but no problems so far with the meter. just no box. Don't they all basically come from the same
place?

[Rbastler]

Maybe its the shipping time ? 

[MacMeter]

Forgive my naivety, but what's wrong if it comes from China? Mine took about 2.5 weeks, but no problems so far with the meter. just no box. Don't they all basically come from the same
place?

2 days versus 2-3 weeks. In my case 3.5 weeks.

[ez24]

Forgive my naivety, but what's wrong if it comes from China? Mine took about 2.5 weeks, but no problems so far with the meter. just no box. Don't they all basically come from the same
place?

2 days versus 2-3 weeks. In my case 3.5 weeks.

In my case 2 days but I was warned by this forum so I looked hard and found some in the US

[Fungus]

Forgive my naivety, but what's wrong if it comes from China? Mine took about 2.5 weeks, but no problems so far with the meter. just no box.

Some people want it NOW, DAMMIT!

[eurofox]

Forgive my naivety, but what's wrong if it comes from China? Mine took about 2.5 weeks, but no problems so far with the meter. just no box.

Some people want it NOW, DAMMIT!

I wait since 5 weeks to get mine from Bangood.
I think they use the cheapest way to ship.

[stj]

i get banggood stuff in under 2 weeks, maybe belgian customs/post is sitting on it to create extra delays.
use the tracking number next-time to see.