Hacking the DSO2X1X

[Tekjive]

Hi, I just got my DSO2C10 and checking board confined I received a fully populated 2D15 even did the relay check to make sure and it’s there! So I’d like to go ahead with the hack, after 1st backing everything up, but before anything I wanted to ask if this procedure was still up to date? I only read the 1st and last pages of the thread, and last time the main/first post was March2021 I think? I’m pretty sure Hantek just released some updates a few weeks ago, so is this up to date or is there a thread that is more to date, has more info, etc?

Side note I read there’s a cool change theme download as well??? I’m colorblind and one of the biggest “cons” is the 2 waveforms look the exact same to me, is there an “all inclusive hack”? Just curious, also if I were to apply both the hack and color themes in which order? I’m just finding out about the color themes so I’m going to do more reading but mainly wanted to ask if the hack was still up to date and if not is there an updated thread, hoping the hackers are still working on this/the Linux kernel as being able to enhance/change/add options, even aesthetic ones, would be awesome

Thx!

EDIT: So I went through and downloaded Alpha’s files, make both my main backups, and am now getting ready to convert my 2C10 to 2D15, I had a question before I do as I wasn’t able to find the answer, I apologize in advance if I missed it, but should I update to latest software update before or after conversion? It was shipped to me as FW 3202, software 20210726, I guess just double checking. Excited to make this conversion, ty for any/all insight/advice!

[DavidAlfa]

The update and the conversion can be done in any other, doesn't matter.
FAQ is updated, yes.

[Tekjive]

Awesome, Ty Alpha! And ya I saw it has the latest FW and updates, although I noticed that Hanteks file is larger then the one you have listed on repository, is there any specific reason it’s different (not by much but it is) also I should have read over everything before diving into a long winded simple question, but after going through it all I also should have asked about the  “2D15 conversion” folder in the Mod/Hack section, is that a different process versus the one listed on the 1st post of this thread? Do they each have the same outcome? If not what is the difference and which should be ran 1st? Also the process listed on 1st post says to have latest firmware update on USB, even if I already have 3202? I just wanted to clarify the difference between everything and in what order would be best if all is needed, main goal is to turn my 2C10 with fully populated and marked 2D15 board into a fully functional DSO2D15.   

Thx again bro, looking forward to an OpenSource if Hantek agrees and what you and the others can do with this Oscope 🦾🤓🎛

[Tekjive]

I prolly should have just posted a new comment vs modifying my last reply, but figured I was already writing so much but  trying to keep the thread “clean” lol 😅 but I think many would also benefit from the answers to the questions I just edited in, almost like a double check on what’s what and the order to install it in, unless I’m just overthinking it, lol. I’m going to go through thread as well to get some insight on them

[Tekjive]

I guess I’m going to assume the latest FW is still required even if the machine is already updated to latest FW to install additional software that was left out when it was originally installed as a lower version, my main question tho is the difference between Updates (size difference usually means a difference in files right? Unless I’m missing something) and if anyone else tried installing the file listed in Mod/Hack as “2D15 conversion” on DavidAlpha’s repository? Anyone else know the difference between that and the conversion process listed on the 1st post in this thread and if they are related? And if not what is it and why is it there? Any answers to the other above questions would be greatly appreciated, I’m not one to just “wing it” when there seems to be more then one process, unless I’m overthinking this and missing something, lol, sometimes my caution can spark that 😅 hence all the questions on what might seem like a simple process.

 I know this may seem a little “over clarifying” but I’ve assumed wrong in the past and just want to make sure, even if I’ve taken the precautions of backing up everything in case something goes wrong, would like to just do 1 run, no mistakes, in the best order possible that releases all features, hoping someone has at least some experience with that “2d15 conversion” file listed in repository.

Thx and best to all!

[DavidAlfa]

The 2D15 conversion mod does the same thing, it's just more direct, simple, doesn't require editing or copying multiple files and can coexist with any other upk files, while the "do_other_update" method would require to edit the file everytime.
Fw and sw version aren't modified by the conversion.
The mod is never modified by any update.
If FW version is showing 3102 or 3202, you're on the latest already.
Very small number of updates change it.
Don't change between 3102 or 3202.
All this is explained in the FAQ.

[Tekjive]

Ty Alpha, I must have totally missed the FAQ, I apologize, going to read it now. Ty for clarifying, I really do appreciate it 🖖🏼

[Tekjive]

This prolly goes without saying, ALWAYS backup jic, but wow Alpha that couldnt have been easier. After reading FAQ I used the "2d15 conversion" method found in "hack/mods" and it literally took 1 file 15 seconds to get a fully working DSO2D15 unit ...youre a genius, ty

[DavidAlfa]

  That's the idea.
Initial work was made by Mark5, I just made it simpler, removing hassle, risks and danger of corruption from a bad copy, as upk files are encrypted, then checked by the scope software.

[Naiw]

Bought a DSO1C10 some week ago directly from Hantek via aliexpress, (don't really need anything faster or more advanced) but after playing around with it for a few hours (it was shipped with 20210724) found some minor issues and hoped those would be fixed in a later firmware and decided to update to the latest firmware (20200210) well unfortunately the shape of the software seems worse than it was with the factory supplied one (scope was basically stuck at lowest memory depth and trying to use anything higher caused it to lock up), at that point I decided to open it up to and found that I had a fully populated board, and decided to hack it and reinstall the latest firmware, so now it's a DSO2D15

Not going to use the signal generator anyway (but it's at least fun that all the buttons on the scope works now, but it seems mostly useless on my scope at least perhaps lacking calibration or so the voltage setting etc is almost a volt of peak to peak compared to the setting however, but frequency and waveform seems accurate)

---

Edit: N/m I'm stupid and didn't read past the first post... I've redone the patch now using Davids packages and installed the calibration values as well- the wave generator is pretty decent now.

[Tekjive]

After installing the “2D15 conversion” upk in “Mods/Hacks” auto range rapid fires off the relays to autoset (I have auto range on), which it never did that I noticed with my limited use, also the DVM and voltage readings in general seem to be off, more then usual. Also most of the settings revert, like memory depth, etc. is that an issue or just the way this scope works, always having to set settings between each probe? I know a lot of the problems are the initial software itself and that Hantek has some work to do with this Oscope. I’ve calibrated twice but am I missing something? Did I forget to do anything? I was under the impression that 1 file was enough for a proper conversion, I know this machine still has its bugs, etc but is there anyway to correct these “problems” or maybe fix what Hantek hasn’t yet with any other additional software? Performance wise it’s almost worse and I’m worried that rapid relay clicking will damage something, I don’t know what’s what so my worries may be unfounded. I’m new to oscilloscopes and modifying them so I apologize for being such a newb at this, I’m going to go through entire thread and reread the ReadMes and FAQs jic to see if I can find a similar issue and a fix to them, or worst case scenario revert to stock until either Hantek works out more bugs or you amazing ppl work out fixes of your own Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Again i apologize for my newbness and the amount of questions/help being sought, any problems I’m having I’m sure are my fault and/or lack of knowledge, I’m new to the field by only weeks but trying to soak in as much as possible by reading/watching/etc and this community is by far the most understanding and helpful towards new learners, I’ve had some bad experiences being a “newb” to this field when asking for help and have not received any of that negative here so when I say I appreciate it I mean it bro, I value that a lot. Just putting that out there since I’m asking for so much help/info. 

Thank you 😅

Video of “symptoms”

https://imgur.com/a/aLpk2Gg

[Naiw]

No idea, I haven’t noticed any significant difference in my scopes behavior after 2D15 conversion… but then again I did not really test it a lot before I converted it.
I also updated to 20220210 and thought the relays was clicking more frequently than before when using auto set etc (did not test with autorange), didn’t take a long time before I got the scope in some locked up state (it froze everytime it was booted), contacted hantek and was sent platform tools; followed the instructions and the scope was back to functional again however this time with software 20210814.
I’ve since noticed that it seems they pulled the 20220210 firmware now and the latest offered is 2021090901, I did not try it though as so far the 20210814 revision seems to work fine for me- and since I don’t really care about the signal generator anyway (the FAQ states there is a bug in the DC offset in this firmware revision) it doesn’t bother me much to update for now.

But regardless perhaps it’s worth testing another software revision and see if it fixes or at least change the behavior your seeing, otherwise I suppose it would be a good thing to reach out to Hantek, they responded fairly quickly (within a day) and while the communication was brief it was effective, just don’t forget to give them your serial number and probably a given but it’s probably not helpful mentioning that you been tinkering around with the software already

[DavidAlfa]

I think you modded it so fast that you didn't have enough time to know your scope 
Restore your backup (Did you make it before modifying anything, right?) and compare.
The accuracy of display measurements aren't very precise.

The autorange is disabled by default, autoset adjust everything, but only once.
The relay click happens in the 200mv<->500mv transition.

This is what happens when you enable autorange:

- You touch the probe, inducing ac noise from mains, it'll usually switch to the 5-10V/div range (click).
- Then you leave the probe unconnected, now the scope reads 5mV noise and switches to the 10mv/div setting (Another click).
- Any movement causing the signal amplitude to change will trigger the autorange.

Do you get it? It's annoying as hell

My advice is to leave autorange disabled, it will increase relay wear and make you mad due so much clicking noises.

[Tekjive]

Naiw: As embarrassing as this is to admit I didn’t even consider the software version, which mine shipped with 20210726.00 so I def need to address that, I think after reading doing some reading and seeing what software revision seems to be the most stable/accurate I’ll update mine today. Good to know 20210814 seems to be running good, wondering if 20210909.01 would be even more accurate tho, if/when I try it I’ll update Ty for the heads up, can’t believe I didn’t even consider it, I’ve been going full speed on all of this completely skipping steps without even knowing most of the steps ...ya def embarrassing 😅

DavidAlpha: You sir are completely 100% spot on correct ...I do not know how to properly run an Oscilloscope, let alone my specific model. I was just so excited to get going and dig in (repairing class d car amplifiers) and I’m realizing I need to slow tf down, lol. Since making that last post I’ve reverted my machine with my (Full) backup, calibrated, and all seems to be running as shipped, which I’m realizing is a few software levels behind, it was shipped with the latest firmware tho, 3202. Like mentioned above I’m going to try updating software version on my 2C10 after researching what software seems to be the most stable/accurate. Also Since realizing I’m moving way to fast I’ve gone back to basics, treating this like school, taking notes, drawing diagrams, etc as I want to learn this right. I was digging into amps (main reason for converting was for signal generator to diagnose/test amps without having to hook up a car radio setup to run a signal to amp) way to fast as well, I’m realizing this is going to take a lot more time then I want it too, a lot more but I’m good with that, I want to learn it right so I do it right. I really appreciate the explanations and advice bro ...here I am thinking I broke my scope and I don’t even know what I’m doing lol 😅

Thank you fellas, your input has helped a lot and given my a good direction on where to go from here 🤓 if anyone has experience with the last few software versions and what seems to run the most stable/accurate on DSO2C10 that is a fully populated board marked “DSO2D15” with Firmware 3202 please chime in, I do eventually plan on converting my DSO2C10 to DSO2D15 after updating software, so anything in respects to that would help a lot and be much appreciated 🖖🏼

[DavidAlfa]

All boards are marked as "DSO2D15".
Just the "C" versions might not have the wave generator generator parts.

There're two main different versions regarding the FPGA:
- FW B0xx/B1xx/30xx/31xx
- FW B2xx/32xx

Installing the wrong FW version (Not the scope software, it's the internal fpga firmware) it'll break the calibration, not a big issue, all it needs is reverting to the correct one.

So if your scope came with 32xx, ensure it's always in that version (latest update is 3202).
If it came with 3000/31xx, latest update to 3102.
FW can be updated using "FW changer" or the Hantek update called "auto_update_fpga".

About the software: You're free to test as you want. Check the FAQ, avoid those enforcing FW upgrade.

This week I'm using 2021.01.05, seems stable so far. Later versions seems to have broken zooming and few other parts.

As long as you have the original backup, it's undestructible, there's no way to brick it

You can mod your DSO2C10 to DSO2D15 without any issues. Software and firmware will be unaffected.
The only difference will be the waveform generator being enabled.

[Tekjive]

Ok, awesome! I’ve never changed FW and it’s always been 3202 so good there, and I do have all the parts for the AWG too so def got lucky on my buy. Ya I have all my backups and have used them once already so I’m def in the green, good to know I can always revert it and never brick it Another quick Q, when would I use the EEPROM backup? I’ll try finding it on threads. When I reverted models back to 2C10 I just used my backup marked FULL, I think im going to back update to the version you posted as 0726 DVM and Vpp readings never match up, just seems to always be off, and like you said I can always revert again After finding a good software in going to run the 2D15 conversion UPK again as I want to be able to use the AWG for a simple signal source, is the shield grounded on the AWG?

Thank you for all the help and advice David, really appreciate it man. I’m trying to learn a few diff hobbies all at once and man some days it feels so overwhelming but with help from good people it makes it so much easier and actually enjoyable, ty

[DavidAlfa]

Please don't report bugs here, use the main thread for that, this one is for hacking only, let's keep it tidy

[Tekjive]

Will do, I thought it may be the place to report the bug since I hacked the feature to work, I’m going to cut, repost there, and delete above bug. 🖖🏼

So for hacking I’m thinking can we change/hack features right? This may be a new user experience thing but is there a way to hack/run a script to change the Trigger button press from zeroing out to 50%? Maybe I’m lazy or that I see other instruments have a 50% button but having to press 2 buttons to trigger @ 50% while holding probe trying not to slip kinda sucks? Is that a big deal? When would I use trigger Zeroing vs 50% more? Since learning my scope I’ve never had a real reason to zero my trigger but I am constantly reaching to 50%, it’s gotten to the point where it’s easier when probing small precise “don’t slip or you’ll cause a short” situations where I just spin the trigger dial up into whatever range to get the waveform to stop rolling.

I also had a few questions/wondering son theme changes, such as colors, etc. are all changes/hacks like that made with scripts? I’ve never used scripts but from what I can tell the 1 theme hack I see to change 2nd waveform color is done through running a script? Wondering if it’s that easy and I can do it on top of my already hacked and updated Scope, don’t want to break how well it’s working right now lol 😅 I may also be asking the wrong question in the wrong way, my bad if I am but hopefully
You get what I’m trying to say 🤓

Thoughts?

Btw really enjoying using my scope now, AWG is great as well, everything seems to be working great. Ty David

[DavidAlfa]

This is nothing personal against you, just shows my current point of view on this subject.

These modifications are not that easy, patching the binaries require tons of hours of reverse engineering to find out what to change.
Looks easy because someone (me) spent a lot of time in that and made a simple installer for everyone.
But I lost interest long time ago, also the fact that, with very small exceptions, I was doing it all alone, helped a bit. Most people here is just lazy, everything is "give me", "I want", "please do"...
Sorry, hacking is not begging at someone to do all the work for you.
How to patch the trigger? I have no damn idea, but I won't sit for days finding how to do it.

My last try was to make a nice bug report, as everyone was complaining, but nobody cared to make any proper testing. Neither will I.

All I can say is to read the FAQ because that's another thing it took my time, yet it seems lots of people can't read.
I have no problem answering something when it's not been said 2000 times already or in the FAQ.

You can extract any of my upk packages using Dso Builder and see what it does.
To reverse engineering, take /dso/app/phoenix and /dso/lib/libanolis.so.0.0.0 and disassemble them using guidra.
And yes, you'll find it gets that complicated 

[pcprogrammer]

I second that

Just take a look in the FNIRSI 1013D thread on what you run into reversing something like this. It took ~10 months to get something running that is similar to the original. Sure it fixed a lot of errors and I learned from it. But still it takes a lot of time and knowledge.

[Tekjive]

I get it man, must be frustrating as fuck, especially with all the time you've put in, which seems countless atp. Seems like you are literally the only tech carrying this device on a "should be paid" level, tbh it seems like you are doing more for this unit then even Hantek is. Sucks to see someone so skilled get so burned out cuz of shitty\lazy ppl, happens to everyone though and shitty\lazy ppl hit the hardest, to the point of "why bother", I do get it. Huge loss for this platform, and even though I'm newb af and prolly somewhat guilty myself sometimes, I appreciate everything you've done David, seriously. I know that amounts to shit really cuz im just some new user whos just getting into the O-Scope\Electronics\DIY scene, but seriously if you didn't put out what you have in the way you have I wouldn't have saved the money I have, and even learned some about my scope and scopes in general, means alot to me actually. I know I've thanked you in the past for specific help but seriously bro, thank you for everything. If I knew what I was doing or could help in anyway I would, never coded before and reverse engineering sounds like some engineering level type of sorcery to me right now, I didn't even know thats what it takes for what seems like a "simple" request to a layman, just wow thats alot of work, maybe in the future as I learn and whatnot, but ya I'm basically a monkey with a stick when it comes to that atm, but I am actively trying to use my stick better\proper lol 😅

And hey look, I'm not trying to gas you up or float your boat or whatever, just being real. I know jackshit when it comes to this so I am truly appreciative af, seems most ppl almost expect\act entitled lately in all communities and that is not me, just needed to put that out there, I can appreciate the straight forward no candy coated reply as well, I try to live life that way. But ya man again thank you, hopefully you don't completely abandon this unit, huge L for all if so, but like I said I get it.

Take care and stay safe dude 🖖

[DavidAlfa]

No worries! Modifying the trigger would need a lot of work.
I have no idea how the keyboard is read ( I suspect from libanolis), how the status is processes, where's the trigger level or how is it expressed.
As you say, it's kinda a burnout. I spent a crazy lof of time with the same projects during the covid lockdown.
So, at least for a while, I'll be barely flying around these subjects.

[DavidAlfa]

I made some measurements:

+5V: 1A
+8V: 240mA
-8V: 600mA (After boot, it lowers to 240mA)
TR: 3.3V square signal from mains (50/60Hz)

A 2-series 5000mAh LiPo battery (7.4-8.4V) should do a good job, requiring:
- Battery positive directly connected to +8V
- Negative voltage inverter (For the -8V).
- 5V buck converter.
- Additional 9-12V power supply to recharge the batteries.
- TR signal generation, since someone in the forum reported the scope didn't boot properly without it.


This is my current basket:
- Mains 12V 3A adapter  (Main power source for battery).
- 8.4V 2A charger (Charging current/voltage control).
- 2S BMS (Protection and balancing).
- 4X 18650 3000mAh batteries.
- Dual ±5V 3A converter (Will modify the circuit to generate ±8V output instead ±5V).

Other/Pending:
- TRC generation.
- Circuit for battery disconnection when mains power is used.
- Circuit to power the PSU for battery charging, while keeping the scope off.

[morgan_flint]

Hello, DavidAlfa.

I just received my DSO2D10 from Banggood last Friday and, as I'm also interested in the battery power hack, I opened it up and sketched the attached power supply simplified schematic.

As you can see, it is based on a +-8V flyback type around a DK124 IC. The main regulated output of this stage is +8V, which is then converted to +5V with a buck converter based on the XL1509-5.0E1 IC.

The measured voltages in my case were +7.25 V (+8), -8.24V (-8), and 4.97V (5V)

On the other hand, the +-8V outputs are converted to +-5V via linear regulators in the mainboard (to reduce noise, I imagine) and, apparently, aren't used for anything else, so their value isn't critical, as long as they are high enough to provide the required voltage drop at the linear regulators, and low enough not to overheat them.

So maybe the simplest form of feeding this from a battery would be to use a 2S (7.4V nominal) connected directly to the +8V output (+5V would be generated by the existing buck converter) and use an inverting DC/DC converter (like this one, for example) to generate approx. -8V, also connected to the -8V output of the AC power supply (D4 and D5 would avoid shorts through the transformer secondary winding). When feeding from AC, these connections should be removed to avoid charging the battery from the scope's power supply (probably overloading it) and/or powering the inverting converter from the output (maybe a diode in series would be enough to prevent this)

What do you think?

I also liked cristy's idea of simply feeding the main input capacitor with a 12V to 250V converter because of its simplicity but, as you said, this implies double conversion and more losses. But if I went that way, I wouldn't connect the converter to the capacitor, but directly to the AC input (a bit more losses on the rectifier bridge, but no need to even open the oscilloscope!)

[morgan_flint]

As for the TR signal, it's generated with a simple circuit around an optocoupler; probably could be simulated with a 555 oscillator. I don't think it's necessary, but cristy seemed to have problems with this. Anyhow, I tried shorting the TR signal to ground (no danger in this if you see the schematic) and booting several times with no problems.

I'm attaching a picture of the TR signal recorded with my DSO138mini (which doesn't seem to measure frequency very well in one of the scales...)

EDIT: Added the same signal but recorded by the DSO2D10 (scope scoping its own internals)