Hacking the Siglent 2k+ Cooling System and Mount

[Martin72]

I´ve finished the backplate adaptor for the 2K+ HD, adding mounting holes for VESA 100x100 and 75x75.

With this adaptor plate, you can mount your HD scope on normal VESA monitor holders.
My first thought to make it more "3d" I´ve sacrifice it for easier assembling.
Instead you can use plastic distance rings between plate and scope.
Lenght of the needed screws is original length plus thickness of the plate plus thickness of the distance ring.
That´s all...
I´ll test my patience to wait until next week when I´m at work again and make the plate there - Or order it online somewhere...

Martin

[balnazzar]

I´ve finished the backplate adaptor for the 2K+ HD, adding mounting holes for VESA 100x100 and 75x75.

With this adaptor plate, you can mount your HD scope on normal VESA monitor holders.
My first thought to make it more "3d" I´ve sacrifice it for easier assembling.
Instead you can use plastic distance rings between plate and scope.
Lenght of the needed screws is original length plus thickness of the plate plus thickness of the distance ring.
That´s all...
I´ll test my patience to wait until next week when I´m at work again and make the plate there - Or order it online somewhere...

Martin

Job well done, Martin!

The plate looks OK, and it will not be difficult to estimate the length of the screws. Still, there is the threading problem for the screws themselves.

[Martin72]

I must confess I have problems to understand the threading thing...

[balnazzar]

I must confess I have problems to understand the threading thing...

The threading is the part of the screw that has that spiraling pattern carved in. It's what makes it a screw, after all.
The threading can be different on an aftermarket screw with respect to the original one. If that's the case, the female rivets on the scope will be stripped. It would be very unpleasant.

On the other hand, most (but not all) "M" screws have kind of a standard threading. It's tricky, since it's very difficult to know if you are stripping the female housing until you actually strip it.

[2N3055]

I must confess I have problems to understand the threading thing...

The threading is the part of the screw that has that spiraling pattern carved in. It's what makes it a screw, after all.
The threading can be different on an aftermarket screw with respect to the original one. If that's the case, the female rivets on the scope will be stripped. It would be very unpleasant.

On the other hand, most (but not all) "M" screws have kind of a standard threading. It's tricky, since it's very difficult to know if you are stripping the female housing until you actually strip it.

Ahem, threads are VERY standardized.. M3 metric thread is same in the whole world. Same with imperial ones.. machine threads should go in with very little force until end..

[Martin72]

Exactly this, when siglent uses M3x10 screws for example, there is no problem to exchange them with M3x12...

[Martin72]

Checking the dimensions with a paper dummy...Seems to fit.
Next week follows the real one, first made with alloy.
If everything is OK, I´ll think about to transfer it in data for 3-d printing.
Same with SDS2000X+.

[2N3055]

Martin,

an advice: as you can see screws are inset inside plastic cover. That inside part is being pushed by screw head against backing plate in the scope.  If you screw through the plate , you will be exerting pressure to the outside of cover. I would put a washer or two (scheibe) in a hole between cover and plate to make sure plate presses against the the same surface screw head was pressing. And put something soft between cover and plate so it compresses nicely. It will also work as vibration dampener...

[Martin72]

Thank you Sinisa,

But this is clear to me since I´m working in a company with own mechanical construction section..
Plus I do not want to do any harm to the case of the scope.
So distance bushes and washers will be in plastic/nylon, rubbertape inbetween plate and case, and so on.
I´ll show the results when finishing.
Martin

[2N3055]

Yes I should have known that you would.
But no harm in being safe..

[balnazzar]

Many aspects to consider. And I don't run a mechanical construction company.

Maybe I should settle for:

1. Installing the Noctua with reversed filtered airflow.

2. Just hang the scope to a vesa arm using its very carrying handle.

[Martin72]

"Long time ago" there was a user here who had created a cooling solution for his rigol mso5000:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/new-rigol-scope/msg2544018/#msg2544018

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/new-rigol-scope/msg2548875/#msg2548875

2. Just hang the scope to a vesa arm using its very carrying handle.

 

[balnazzar]

"Long time ago" there was a user here who had created a cooling solution for his rigol mso5000:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/new-rigol-scope/msg2544018/#msg2544018

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/new-rigol-scope/msg2548875/#msg2548875

2. Just hang the scope to a vesa arm using its very carrying handle.

 

A bit rough 

These are cases where a 3D printer would come in handy!

[BillyO]

Being nearly deaf has it's upside.  I can be in my lab with all the equipment going and just hear a pleasant "whooosh".

As long as I don't have my hearing aids in .. that is.

[Martin72]

Next week follows the real one, first made with alloy.

That was too optimistic...
Next weekend I´ll try assemble it on the scope.

[DavidOrDave]

Greetings. Regarding the negative vs. positive air pressure and air filtration...I have a SDS2104X plus that I got at the promotional price, and I too would like the scope not to become dusty inside. My lab tends to be dusty. But I'm not ready to crack the seal on the scope to reverse/replace the fan. Someday.

Meanwhile, there are only three main openings that draw air. So, I got some inexpensive air conditioner filter foam. It's 1/4" thick and a charcoal grey color and a good match for the back enclosure of the scope. I simply cut a couple of strips for the left/right vent, and one for the rectangular opening near the rear connectors. I used narrow strips of foam mounting tape to hold these in place over the air inlets. I barely notice them and it doesn't bother me when I do - knowing that they're catching dust. And, should I decide later that they're ugly or something, I can easily remove them. Seems like a good improvement for now. Not rocket science, really.