Hacking the Siglent 2k+ Cooling System and Mount

[balnazzar]

Hi Fellas.

Like many others, I'm looking with some interest at the 2K+ now that there is that promotion in place. I'd have preferred a dead-silent, fanless USB scope, but a 350 MHz, four channels USB scope with all those options (among which a well-implemented FRA) is nowhere to find.. You have to shell out 3X that price.

The scope has a 92mm fan which I believe is the same as the SDS5K's: acoustically bearable.
One thing that I don't like at all, however, is that the scope has a negative pressure cooling system. That is, the fan blows the air OUT of the scope's back (picture below), and fresh air is suckled in from the side vents. These vents are vitually impossible to filter.
I have opened a lot of desktop and laptop computers whose cooling systems were built with the same logic, and I can assure that even in clean environments, the interior will become a nightmare of dust and grime within just a few months. This leads to a number of problems, for example the heatsinks' efficiency would be greatly reduced.

I don't want this to happen, so I want to to invert the airflow, turning the interior of the scope into a positive pressure room. The fan will blow fresh air from the back, and it will exit the scope from the lateral vents. A standard 92mm/100mm demciflex fine-mesh filter will keep ~>95% of the shit out of the scope, and it's easy to clean. I do always this with my computers, and it works flawlessly.

If you look at the pictures below (Dave's teardown), you will notice that the fan would blow directly upon the major heatsinks, so such a solution would actually be beneficial for keeping the temperatures in check even during southern Italy's hot summer days.

The only thing I'm worried about are the electrolytic capacitors on the left. I don't know their temperature rating (do you??), but with the airflow in its default configuration, they are struck by fresh air as soon as it enters the scope. In my positive-pressure config, however, they will get air which will be slightly warmer, having hit the motherboard before hitting them..
 
What do you think??

P.S.: Another thing to note is that the scope's stock fan is a 1600 rpm (@12V), 22 dB fan. The standard Noctua 92mm fan is rated for 17 dB at 1600 rpm (9V with the included resistor). As such, the Noctua produces a slightly inferior airflow, but a superior static pressure. Or, one can run the Noctua at 2000 rpm (without the resistor), having the same level of noise as the stock fan (22 dB) but with greatly superior airflow and pressure.

[balnazzar]

Now that I look at the pictures more attentively, I'm noticing another thing.. Due to the positioning of the motherboard AND the side vents, a lot of air (I think maybe the majority of it) will get *under* the motherboard itself. What's in there, apart from the screen?

[bdunham7]

I've had mine for a year and there's no discernable dust inside.  I have cat and there is dust on the outside, so I don't have a sterile environment.  The scope really doesn't get warm, the only part that puts off any discernable heat is the screen backlight.  I doubt any of the capacitors or heat-sinked parts are running more than a few degrees over ambient.  The stock fan on mine moves very little air, so I wonder if it is already slowed down.  It seems pretty quiet to me as well, I can just barely hear it from 10 feet away if there is no other noise around.

I suspect you can do whatever you want and it will be fine.

[balnazzar]

I've had mine for a year and there's no discernable dust inside.  I have cat and there is dust on the outside, so I don't have a sterile environment.  The scope really doesn't get warm, the only part that puts off any discernable heat is the screen backlight.  I doubt any of the capacitors or heat-sinked parts are running more than a few degrees over ambient.  The stock fan on mine moves very little air, so I wonder if it is already slowed down.  It seems pretty quiet to me as well, I can just barely hear it from 10 feet away if there is no other noise around.

I suspect you can do whatever you want and it will be fine.

What you report about the temps is reassuring. And yes, if the fan is the same as the SDS5K's one, it's reasonably silent (although not dead quiet). Maybe swapping it with a Noctua won't be necessary.
But I have to turn it upside down and filter the air intake, otherwise I won't be able to sleep at night. I'm a bit obsessive about such things.

[Martin72]

Obviously...

Some things:
This is not the fan from the 5000X, it´s fan is controlled - The one from the 2000X+ not.
The fan is not really loud but in very calm enviroment it´s hearable.
I´ve owned the scope 2yrs and in this time not a single dust crumb were "landed" inside.
Nevertheless I´ve changed the fan for a more silent one, link/pics following.

EDIT:

Pic of the final assembly, link to it you can find in the threadlist in my signature...,

[balnazzar]

Obviously...

Some things:
This is not the fan from the 5000X, it´s fan is controlled - The one from the 2000X+ not.
The fan is not really loud but in very calm enviroment it´s hearable.
I´ve owned the scope 2yrs and in this time not a single dust crumb were "landed" inside.
Nevertheless I´ve changed the fan for a more silent one, link/pics following.

EDIT:

Pic of the final assembly, link to it you can find in the threadlist in my signature...,

Thanks!
But.. That not a single dust clog is to be found inside the case after two years is.. Uh.. I don't know how to put it. Unlikely?

Tell me one thing. You are a two-years user of that scope. You also own a whole lot of other scopes to compare with, among which the semi-mythical 2K-HD
Are you satisfied with the 2K+?

Thanks!

[balnazzar]

Nevertheless I´ve changed the fan for a more silent one, link/pics following.

EDIT:

Pic of the final assembly, link to it you can find in the threadlist in my signature...,

Martin, please tell me a couple things..

1a. Where did you buy the fan controller?
1b. Part #?
1c. How did you stick it to the metal plate?

2. I want to drill four holes in the plastic back chassis so to hang the scope on a VESA arm. Did you happen to notice how much space remains between the plastic back and the metal plate? If it's just like 1mm, the heads of the screws won't fit...

Thanks!

[Martin72]

Tell me one thing. You are a two-years user of that scope. You also own a whole lot of other scopes to compare with, among which the semi-mythical 2K-HD
Are you satisfied with the 2K+?

Maximum satisfied - I´ve sold it only for having the HD, and this I only want to have it for the 12 bit, nothing else.
I´m convinced in such manner, that I bought a couple of the SDS2k+ for the company I work for.

[Martin72]

1a. Where did you buy the fan controller?
1b. Part #?
1c. How did you stick it to the metal plate?

A) amazon
B) will follow
C) drill holes into it, then use nylon screws/nuts/washers for maximum isolation.

2. I want to drill four holes in the plastic back chassis so to hang the scope on a VESA arm. Did you happen to notice how much space remains between the plastic back and the metal plate? If it's just like 1mm, the heads of the screws won't fit...

Puuuh...didn´t have it in mind actually, but I took more photos as I´d modified the fan thing, must have a look at it.
BTW, there are VESA adaptors for monitors which didn´t got VESA mounting holes...

[balnazzar]

1a. Where did you buy the fan controller?
1b. Part #?
1c. How did you stick it to the metal plate?

A) amazon
B) will follow
C) drill holes into it, then use nylon screws/nuts/washers for maximum isolation.

Thanks

2. I want to drill four holes in the plastic back chassis so to hang the scope on a VESA arm. Did you happen to notice how much space remains between the plastic back and the metal plate? If it's just like 1mm, the heads of the screws won't fit...

Puuuh...didn´t have it in mind actually, but I took more photos as I´d modified the fan thing, must have a look at it.
BTW, there are VESA adaptors for monitors which didn´t got VESA mounting holes...

Yes. Considered. But they are either adhesive (I wouldn't trust it), or of the type in the pictures below: they are made to accommodate narrower stuff (max ~4-5cm thick). The scope is thicker.
Another option would be a VESA "laptop" plate. But I'm fairly convinced that on the first occasion that my hand gets caught in a cable, the scope will hit the floor...

[Martin72]

Actually for the HD I´ve looked for a Vesa similar thing, maybe the next weekend I can show results - when it will fit without drilling additional holes in the scope housing ( lost of warranty !!!!)

EDIT:

your 2nd pic, exactly mine...

[balnazzar]

Actually for the HD I´ve looked for a Vesa similar thing, maybe the next weekend I can show results - when it will fit without drilling additional holes in the scope housing ( lost of warranty !!!!)

EDIT:

your 2nd pic, exactly mine...

Thanks, if you'd post your work on this, it will be incredibly helpful...!

Maybe I can venture a conjecture...

The sticks that actually hold the monitor are just kind of some screws bolts, say M5 (picture below). One could just buy longer M5 bolts! But then there is the problem with the torque: longer bolts, more torque. But then, in this original configuration the contraption is certified for 8kg, while the scopes weighs less than that. It could hold.

But if you concocted a more elegant solution, please inform us

[bdunham7]

Yes. Considered. But they are either adhesive (I wouldn't trust it), or of the type in the pictures below: they are made to accommodate narrower stuff (max ~4-5cm thick). The scope is thicker.
Another option would be a VESA "laptop" plate. But I'm fairly convinced that on the first occasion that my hand gets caught in a cable, the scope will hit the floor...

Just combine the two solutions.  Use the shelf/plate adapter and a good amount of double sided tape in select spots.

[mwb1100]

I'd think that zip ties might be helpful too.

[balnazzar]

Uh, it might start to become a bit aesthetically unpleasing...

[Martin72]

The sticks that actually hold the monitor are just kind of some screws bolts, say M5 (picture below). One could just buy longer M5 bolts! But then there is the problem with the torque: longer bolts, more torque.

I guess it´s M6 and I´ve ordered 120mm long screws, should arrive tomorrow..
Just for testing, it wasn´t a final solution because of the airflow.

[balnazzar]

The sticks that actually hold the monitor are just kind of some screws bolts, say M5 (picture below). One could just buy longer M5 bolts! But then there is the problem with the torque: longer bolts, more torque.

I guess it´s M6 and I´ve ordered 120mm long screws, should arrive tomorrow..
Just for testing, it wasn´t a final solution because of the airflow.

It's very interesting... I think the airflow will not be impeded (if the vesa segments obstruct the fan exhaust, just use a rubber spacer, 1 cm will be sufficient...).
I'm more concernet about how firmly the locking will actually be. I'll stay tuned with you

[Martin72]

I´ve ordered 120mm long screws, should arrive tomorrow..

Too short, 140mm would be better or much better is to forget this thing because see pic 2.
But I have another idea and the purchase of the non-vesa adaptor was not useless...

[balnazzar]

I´ve ordered 120mm long screws, should arrive tomorrow..

Too short, 140mm would be better or much better is to forget this thing because see pic 2.
But I have another idea and the purchase of the non-vesa adaptor was not useless...

I think you can do it with 140mm crews, and rotating the holder a bit will solve the problem with thecovered button.
OTOH, with screws so long, I'm not sure the whole contraption can manage the torque applied upon it..

Please tell me about the other idea, curiosity is eating me alive. 


Also, see this (but it wouldn't work for the 2000X+ because it has a skewed edge..): https://www.amazon.it/Adattatore-supporti-montaggio-professionale-Office-VESAPLUS/dp/B078NBQFQ9/ref=sr_1_13?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2EY5JV5KMSHR1&keywords=non%2Bvesa%2Badapter&qid=1667678792&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjM1IiwicXNhIjoiMi43NCIsInFzcCI6IjEuNzIifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=non%2Bvesa%2Badapte%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-13&th=1

[Martin72]

Actually I´m designing a backplate for the HD scope, then for the X+...
Will post the finished drawings here then.

Martin

[balnazzar]

Actually I´m designing a backplate for the HD scope, then for the X+...
Will post the finished drawings here then.

Martin

 

That sound good! But how will the backplate be attached to the scope(s)?

[Martin72]

It´s relative simple, by exchanging some of the existing backplate screws against longer ones.
First step is to determine the size of the "backplate adaptor", then determine the hole positions for the screws.
Then they´re two possibilities, making a simple backplate with some rubbertape between the plate and the backside of the scope or...
..make it "3d", I´ll show later what that means.

[balnazzar]

It´s relative simple, by exchanging some of the existing backplate screws against longer ones.
First step is to determine the size of the "backplate adaptor", then determine the hole positions for the screws.
Then they´re two possibilities, making a simple backplate with some rubbertape between the plate and the backside of the scope or...
..make it "3d", I´ll show later what that means.

Mhh.. It can be done, once the length of the screws is established. BUT, be aware of the following possible complications:

1. Establishing the exact length for the replacement is not easy (but doable).
2. We can't know for sure the threading parameters of the screws (see last attached pic if you are unfamiliar with the English terms).
3. It's much easier to do with the HD than with the X+ (first and second pics) due to hole positioning.

[Martin72]

Establishing the exact length for the replacement is not easy (but doable).

It is...Lenght of the original screw plus needed length "X".

3. It's much easier to do with the HD than with the X+ (first and second pics) due to hole positioning.

True but the scope are not heavy ones, fixing on minimum 2 screwholes should be possible.

[balnazzar]

Establishing the exact length for the replacement is not easy (but doable).

It is...Lenght of the original screw plus needed length "X".

3. It's much easier to do with the HD than with the X+ (first and second pics) due to hole positioning.

True but the scope are not heavy ones, fixing on minimum 2 screwholes should be possible.

Yes. Or buy another vesa kit like the one you have and use 2 additional bars to make "T" bars...

The threading still worries me. It's easy to buy a screw with slightly different threading and strip the scope's female rivets. Mh, if you have means to measure the threading, please inform me. Thanks!