Replacement Knobs, Feet and Fittings for Test Equipment

[BlownUpCapacitor]

Tektronix TM500 series plug-in pull tab mechanism. This is the newer version that uses spring metal.

STL file in txt format to get around forum restrictions. Change the file back to STL and it should work fine.

Update: The 3D model has been revised. Previously v4 is now outdated. v6 is the new current version. Please download v6.

The change was made to make the coupling mechanism between the pull tab and the latch release more tolerant.

[BlownUpCapacitor]

Tektronix 7000 Series Basic Plug-in Chassis 3D model.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9XErYBOUfeX-tektronix-7000-series-plug-in

The Plug-in top and bottom part basics are modeled after the 5000 series and TM500 series plug-ins but are just longer to fit the 7000 series. They are split into two parts to make 3D printing easier if need be. I've included the plastic bar and plastic lever that keeps the plug-in latched in in the 3D model. The design will probably be improved later. First thing to be added will probably be the latch release mechanism for the 7000 series.

I have not included a 3D model because then it would be difficult to separate the other parts of it to 3D print. So I'll just add the tinkercad link for better freedom.

The plug-ins seem to fit well in my 7613 so I see no problems. The current latch mechanism works but is still finicky.

In its current state it can be used as a storage or plug-in bay filler.

[BlownUpCapacitor]

New entirely revised Tektronix 7000 Series Basic Plug-in Chassis 3D model

I've recently started getting used to the big boys' CAD software, I must say, onshape is much more powerful than Tinkercad.

I recreated the entire model in onshape complete with the cutouts and latch release mechanism.

I haven't 3D printed this one yet because I ran out of filament, so I can't fully guarantee that it works as expected. However, when it's assembled in CAD in the assembly tab, it looks exceptionally promising.

The design can still be tweaked quite a bit more, but the one in onshape is much better than the Tinkercad one.

This essentially renders my previous post obsolete.

Here's the link for export and download. I think I set all the settings correctly. If I did something wrong, pls tell me: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7ff07276d978bf63140884e3/w/fe9a9b18e05c0f1ebecf49cc/e/ab2e3b83565442349b529546?renderMode=0&uiState=67554b32ea294f114f0cd514

Update: I managed to print it with the limited amount of filament I had. It works well. There needed to be a couple tweaks made sure, but not much at all. I am satisfied with its performance. I'll make the changes tomorrow.

Update 2: I have finalized the design. I've modeled the new version of the latch release and it works much better than the old one. It should be under the tab "Newer Latch Bar". I can't see much room for improvement, so I'll leave it up to others to further improve it if they want.

https://youtu.be/TlW2WiFqT5A?si=o7vByJ9nitqGL1hp

[TERRA Operative]

If anyone is looking to install a Gotek USB floppy disk emulator into their Tektronix TDS500, TDS600, or TDS700 series scope, use this part number: SFR1M44-DU26
(Remove all jumpers EXCEPT J1)

You'll also maybe need an adapter bracket if you have the wider type floppy disk drive, so here it is:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6871401
And you'll also need an M2.5 x 10mm screw too.


(Pictures are of the 'real' part, but you can see how it'll end up anyway).

[BlownUpCapacitor]

Bezel for 7000 series scopes. Won't fit all, but will fit most with standard CRT sizes ei 7904, 7613, 7633, 7623.

Not perfect, but it appears to work very well for me. Actual fabrication of the bezel may pose difficulties. Maybe have a 3rd party make them? The geometry of the bezel poses challenges when 3D printing.

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/075b491f935216a8c1b1c508/w/40a825f8aae556fa20ecf724/e/d18428833605b43239b2e818?renderMode=0&uiState=6761d2b1de567c5cb8c3e338

Update: I added the stl as a .txt file as well.

[Martin72]

Hi,
If it doesn't fit here, let me know and I'll delete it:

Hello,
I am looking for a suitable handle for my Hioki 3540.
The shape of the case and the handle receptacle look familiar, but I can't think of the right term to search for, at least I can't find anything.
Any ideas where I could get it from?

[xrunner]

Hello,
I am looking for a suitable handle for my Hioki 3540.
The shape of the case and the handle receptacle look familiar, but I can't think of the right term to search for, at least I can't find anything.

I took a screenshot of the handle receptacle and tried Google image search. It found the instrument you have, but no others it tried to match had the same star pattern. Maybe there aren't any others?

[BlownUpCapacitor]

Hi,
If it doesn't fit here, let me know and I'll delete it:

Hello,
I am looking for a suitable handle for my Hioki 3540.
The shape of the case and the handle receptacle look familiar, but I can't think of the right term to search for, at least I can't find anything.
Any ideas where I could get it from?

Hi, maybe if you give me the inner and out diameter of the hold I can quickly design one for you. Doesn't look too hard to make in CAD. I have already made a potential fit, just need the specific dimensions now.

I have attached a screenshot with drawings highlighting the dimensions I need.

If possible, providing the shell thickness will also be useful.

Dimensions in mm is preferred.

[AVGresponding]

Hi,
If it doesn't fit here, let me know and I'll delete it:

Hello,
I am looking for a suitable handle for my Hioki 3540.
The shape of the case and the handle receptacle look familiar, but I can't think of the right term to search for, at least I can't find anything.
Any ideas where I could get it from?

It's similar, though not the same, as the Solartron 7150. I can't imagine that Hioki wouldn't make their own cases, though I guess it's possible it was also sold under another brand name as well   


EDIT: A quick search shows they've sold Escort products under their own brand name

[TheDefpom]

I made a replacement rotary switch standoff for the Fluke 720A and Fluke 750A, it probably fits other Fluke items too, this one is 20.8mm long.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6915565

[BlownUpCapacitor]

Here I have some feet for the Tektronix 7000 series mainframes. I have included both polarities for the feet, right and left (or left and right depending on if you are looking from the front or back).

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/4b6617036525a66a77628146/w/d47c5d3eb3ce438621c60860/e/e9ec7d4b98e91859e3fa4788?renderMode=0&uiState=678a796afb0a3a3e9e515d4c

The design is to be refined but it currently works just fine with no issues.

Warning!: If you print this in PLA, ABS, or any non-high-friction material, it will not have the same amount of traction as the original feet. The original foot inserts were rubberized for better traction.

[LorenzoDL]

I made some replacements for a fluke 45 that I repaired lately.

Here the links and some photos:
https://www.printables.com/model/1000276-fluke-45-power-button-extender
https://www.printables.com/model/1000267-fluke-45-back-plastic-bezel

[DavidKo]

I made a new end for the Agilent 34410A push rod.
https://www.printables.com/model/1320136-agilent-34410a-push-rod-repair

[Shimonu]

I made a new end for the Agilent 34410A push rod.
https://www.printables.com/model/1320136-agilent-34410a-push-rod-repair

Awesome, I might need to do something similar with my Philips PM2528 as I've seen that the end of the rod is cracked. I've been trying to think about how I would do it and this seems pretty simple

[TERRA Operative]

Here's the Amplitude knob for the late model Tektronix PG506 (and maybe PG506A? Not sure).

I had it printed in standard white resin from PCBWay and it fits great. You'll just need to remove the aluminium collar from the old knob and superglue it in place. I just added the black line with a black marker.

[madao]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6159453


There is my drawing for  HPAGKS 34970A rear bezel

[Shimonu]

Made a replacement part for the Philips PM 6669 frequency counter. One of the rear feet, or bumper as I call it, is cracked and has been glued before. I thought I would give it a go as it didn't seem too complex.

Shared it on Cults3D: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/philips-pm6669-rear-bumper

[Jay_Diddy_B]

Hi group,

In this message: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg3256118/#msg3256118 I shared a 3D printed version of an Agilent safety cover, 5040-1676

AC Input Safety Cover,  that fits several power supplies 6671A, 6672A, 6673A, 6674A, 6811A, 6811B, 6812A, 6812B, 6813A and 6813B.

This is a modified version that I designed for use with my 6811B. It allows a standard IEC line cord to be used.



Regards,

Jay_Diddy_B
 cover to IEC.zip (51.21 kB - downloaded 35 times.)

[Shimonu]

Has anyone made tiling bales or just covers for the holes? I'm interested specifically for HP 3435B but I'm sure all the instruments using the same case would work.

Otherwise I think that would be my next project.

EDIT: Just saw someone asking about the same thing a few posts up but for a Hioki

[james_a_craig]

Attached are (yet another set of) models for the feet for HP/Agilent/Keysight instruments that need the usual three-post feet. There's two flavours here, front and rear. A pretty good percentage of these instruments actually only shipped with front feet in all four positions; the difference is that front feet have a rigid lip to mate with the instrument below, whereas rear feet have a rubber pad to stop them slipping. You might also see a flip-out bail on the front feet, but both types have the slot for it.

The models here have the same rubber pad slot as the originals, and will accept the original rubber pads. You can also just print a block (either rigid or TPU) to go in the slot and it'll do the same job. These feet match heights with the originals (or at least, not worn out originals!) so you can mix and match with those, too.

I've also put these up on printables at https://www.printables.com/model/1360388-replacement-hpagilentkeysight-foot (where I've also got the feet for the DSO-X2000/3000 series).

[Jay_Diddy_B]

Hi group,

Here is a version of the HP Agilent Keysight 0370-3238 knob. This knob fits the 6mm D-shaped shafts found on  the following power supplies:

6541A, 6542A, 6543A, 6544A, 6545A, 6551A, 6552A, 6553A, 6554A, 6555A, 6571A, 6572A, 6573A, 6574A, 6575A,
6632B, 66332A, 6633B, 6634B, 6641A, 6642A, 6643A, 6644A, 6645A, 6651A, 6652A, 6653A, 6654A, 6655A
6671A, 6672A, 6673A, 6674A, 6675A,
6680A, 6681A, 6682A, 6683A, 6684A,
6811A, 6811B, 6812A, 6812B, 6813A, 6813B, 6834B, 6841A, 6842A,
85108L
E3784A, E4350B, E4351B, E4356A, E6187A, E6188A, E6189A, E6238A, E6242A, E6248A


The part was created used Fusion 360:






The knobs installed on an Agilent 6811B AC Source:




Regards,

Jay_Diddy_B

[TheSteve]

Has anyone found the "ultimate" filament color for knobs and such for older equipment - we need a dirty beige or something. I can print a knob that is awesome in quality, but the color will generally give it away as 3D printed.

[CatalinaWOW]

Has anyone found the "ultimate" filament color for knobs and such for older equipment - we need a dirty beige or something. I can print a knob that is awesome in quality, but the color will generally give it away as 3D printed.

I have had one reel of filament that was a good match for Tektronics grey.  But multiple attempts to buy another never matched the color.  With enough money I'm sure you could buy a custom colored reel to your Pantone color spec, but I suspect enough is close to or into four digit territory.

When I have cared enough I print all new knobs.  Not matching adjacent instruments doesn't seem to matter as much.  In other cases I have replaced similar knobs only (vertical channel knobs on an oscilloscope for instance).

[Jay_Diddy_B]

Hi group,

The filament that I used for the Agilent 6811B knobs in this picture:



Bambu Lab PLA Basic Gray, filament code: 10103

The printer: Snapmaker J1S

These are the slicer settings:



This filament isn't a good match for the original color, but it matches the color of text.

Jay_Diddy_B

[Jay_Diddy_B]

Hi group,

Here is another HPAK knob. This one fits a 0.25 inch round shaft. It is retained using a M3 x 3mm set (grub) screw.






The STL file contains a 2.5mm hole for the set screw. After printing I tapped the hole with an M3 x 0.5 tap to create the thread.




I have attached a zipfile.

Regards,

Jay_Diddy_B

 knob 0_25.PNG (59.61 kB. 522x455 - viewed 545 times.)