My turn to crack one of these things open.
I just got myself a THS720 STD with soft case and power supply for a bit under US$80.
It has the common burnt LCD polarizer (Not sure if I'll play with sourcing the correct polarizer to suit the STN/FSTN LCD or just throw a whole new LCD in, I'm not a fan of the yellowish on blue that you get with using standard polarizing filters..) and it also needs batteries so I'll be fixing this one up all good and proper.
So far, I have found a possible replacement for the DMM input jacks, they are marked as Mueller 3160X, and the closest I've found so far is the
BU-31602-0 (Black) and
BU-31602-2 (Red)They aren't
exactly the same as the pin is straight on the Mueller part, but the Tek part has a groove cut to help retain the clips on the jumper wires.
Testing will tell if friction is enough or if a dab of solder or a quick turn in a lathe to cut a groove is needed.
I'll leave that up to someone else to explore as my DMM jacks appear to be fine.
As for the BNC jacks (mine are useable but have a few chunks taken out) I am thinking of cutting the existing ones away and installing something like
these from ebay.[EDIT] Actually, even better... Part number 67.9766-21 (but it's for RG58 cable) or 67.9764-21 from Staubli look realllly good and aren't too expensive from RS Components..
I am planning to convert the top cap for the battery compartment into a battery contact using some tinned copper braid (leaving the side contact in place inside the scope) and use a set of 4000mAH GP brand Ni-MH C size batteries.
I just need to figure out the best way to reattach the metal piece to the plastic cap, as mine has also broken as usual, and solder to the stainless steel metal piece. I'm thinking either some silver braze, or copper plating then solder.
Then it's a firmware upgrade, recalibration and experimenting to see if it can be upgraded to a THS720P