Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Mr. Scram]

If anyone is thinking about buying a desoldering station, then now might be a really good time to do, CPC have this Duratool ZD-915 on offer in their sale and it really is a good tool and will even clean SMD pads and leave them perfectly flat ready for mounting new parts onto. I have one of these and it has one of my best purchases to date. Sale ends 9th Feb.

What's the discounted price? The CPC and associated sites somehow always have trouble loading here.

[Specmaster]

I've just been given a 30" LCD monitor that is allegedly not working, not tested it as yet but it does come with seperate 24v 5A power supply which is working. So if I'm unable to resurrect the monitor, the power supply will find a new use supplying power to another T12 soldering station so thats an added bonus 

That's a win either way. That's a pretty hefty power supply.

I found my other box of power supplies earlier (hiding in the larder). Actually found a Toshiba charger that already has the right plug and is 20.6V out at 3.42A. Hopefully plug and play, or burn fingers no doubt 

You'll be OK, every confidence in you.

Well I've checked the list that mnementh suggests but he's looking at reusing the linear power supply from a fake Hakko 936 or similar so its going to be a reasonably good sized item once assembled.

In all honesty the only things I think I could and probably will go with is the "Blue" controller he recommends and the handle, the enclosure I'll stick with the same as I already have with the IEC connector not the "clover leaf" as the one he suggests (unfused) as I have loads of IEC leads to spare, and I'll use another psu same as in the Quicko as I know it works and I also know to earth the system safely. Total cost will be £36.15 or if I reuse the monitor psu, £26.38. I'll have to change the plug over from the current 4 pin din type to a 5.5 x 2.1 plug but I have plenty of those and sockets in my parts bin. That psu is too long to fit inside the enclosure so it will have to be external and I could remove the IEC to prevent some clown plugging a power cord into it.

Now to have a look at the monitor and see if I can salvage it before I order the parts for T12 MK2 as the sale ends soon.
+

No, I was just stating the intended design of the original open-source project; it was to convert any of the oodles of clone 937 soldering stations that were well-known to die a fiery death. My intent was to make a station with a boost converter inside that could power the OLED T12 Controller from any 12V-24V DC power source of sufficient current.

I forgot that banggood has a 100-220VAC-24VDC/4A SMPS board that should work with any of these enclosures (US$7-12 Depending on where it's coming from). It has grounded screw hole mounting and fused input, so the non-fused cloverleaf power plug on their extruded AL brick-style enclosure is a non-issue. I've updated the original post with that item as well.


mnem
The tooth says WHEEEEE!

THank you for compiling this list for me, its appreciated but I still fear that I cannot use either the case nor the power supply that you suggested because looking at others peoples builds using that combination is just a little to tight for liking internally and of course, it would be nice to standardise the same power leads as everything else, is, that the IEC plug.

The power supply that I already have slides into the 2 cast channels on the side of the case and holds the PCB nicely of the bottom and provides good isolation and is also 83 x 83 so is a good bit shorter than the Banggood one. By rotating the IEC male part of the connector 180 degrees it will me even greater flexibility for positioning of the power supply in the case as it will slide under the IEC connector of I want it to so in reality providing something in the order of 20mm space to play with to avoid putting pressure on the front controller and iron connector.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-injected-mold-table-box-ABS-plastic-enclosure-case-Alumium-alloy-shell-for-electronic-device/32821952541.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.wNHqOR

The power supply is also fused and smaller.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/QUICKO-New-Arrival-T12-Power-Supply-24V-108W-4-5A-for-OLED-LED-soldering-station-DIY/32834572016.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.wNHqOR

[Specmaster]

If anyone is thinking about buying a desoldering station, then now might be a really good time to do, CPC have this Duratool ZD-915 on offer in their sale and it really is a good tool and will even clean SMD pads and leave them perfectly flat ready for mounting new parts onto. I have one of these and it has one of my best purchases to date. Sale ends 9th Feb.

What's the discounted price? The CPC and associated sites somehow always have trouble loading here.

Its £49.99 plus VAT

EDIT
That's a saving of over 25%

[BU508A]

What's the discounted price? The CPC and associated sites somehow always have trouble loading here.

Here are two screeshots. The first one is from CPC Farnell, the second one from TME:

[Specmaster]

If anyone is thinking about buying a desoldering station, then now might be a really good time to do, CPC have this Duratool ZD-915 on offer in their sale and it really is a good tool and will even clean SMD pads and leave them perfectly flat ready for mounting new parts onto. I have one of these and it has one of my best purchases to date. Sale ends 9th Feb.

What's the discounted price? The CPC and associated sites somehow always have trouble loading here.

Here is the corrected screen print for CPC, you must use this code to get the sale price, not the normal code from the web site as that will get you the normal price.

EDIT stock code to order is SD0138402

[mnementh]

No, I was just stating the intended design of the original open-source project; it was to convert any of the oodles of clone 937 soldering stations that were well-known to die a fiery death. My intent was to make a station with a boost converter inside that could power the OLED T12 Controller from any 12V-24V DC power source of sufficient current.

I forgot that banggood has a 100-220VAC-24VDC/4A SMPS board that should work with any of these enclosures (US$7-12 Depending on where it's coming from). It has grounded screw hole mounting and fused input, so the non-fused cloverleaf power plug on their extruded AL brick-style enclosure is a non-issue. I've updated the original post with that item as well.


mnem
The tooth says WHEEEEE!

THank you for compiling this list for me, its appreciated but I still fear that I cannot use either the case nor the power supply that you suggested because looking at others peoples builds using that combination is just a little to tight for liking internally and of course, it would be nice to standardise the same power leads as everything else, is, that the IEC plug.

The power supply that I already have slides into the 2 cast channels on the side of the case and holds the PCB nicely of the bottom and provides good isolation and is also 83 x 83 so is a good bit shorter than the Banggood one. By rotating the IEC male part of the connector 180 degrees it will me even greater flexibility for positioning of the power supply in the case as it will slide under the IEC connector of I want it to so in reality providing something in the order of 20mm space to play with to avoid putting pressure on the front controller and iron connector.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-injected-mold-table-box-ABS-plastic-enclosure-case-Alumium-alloy-shell-for-electronic-device/32821952541.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.wNHqOR

The power supply is also fused and smaller.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/QUICKO-New-Arrival-T12-Power-Supply-24V-108W-4-5A-for-OLED-LED-soldering-station-DIY/32834572016.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.wNHqOR

You're welcome! I hope this list proves useful to anyone else looking to build one of these.

As with any such project, one person's SOW will differ from another's. Mine concentrates on minimal cash out lay and custom fabbing to achieve a certain form factor; yours clearly prioritizes other things.

When you said IEC, I thought it was the IEC safety rating you wanted, which both receptacles are (IEC C14 vs IEC C6), not a specific IEC standard. Both are pretty common standard cords nowadays, and the IEC C5 cords have an added convenience in that they're usually the much more flexible flat cable w/GND. Of course IEC C13 cords are available in this style as well, but they're not as common.

I also notice that Banggood.com is now offering a "New" version of the OLED T12 controller; it apparently has a clock and battery-maintained memory for multiple iron profiles. (US$29)

It appears they also have a version of the FM-2028 handle (US$9-10), though it is wired for the genuine Hakko FX-951 soldering station.


You may also want to check out the KSGER Store; they have a nice selection of their own version of the OLED T12 controller, including one with the correct 9051 handle and the new V2.01 controller like BG has above that includes battery backup, multiple iron profiles and a larger 1.3" OLED display for only US$26 right now. (US$20-46)

If I were shopping for a T12 Controller right now, this is the version I'd get.

Cheers, and good building!


mnem
T12-birds are GO!

[Specmaster]

You're welcome! I hope this list proves useful to anyone else looking to build one of these.

As with any such project, one person's SOW will differ from another's. Mine concentrates on minimal cash out lay and custom fabbing to achieve a certain form factor; yours clearly prioritizes other things.

When you said IEC, I thought it was the IEC safety rating you wanted, which both receptacles are (IEC C14 vs IEC C6), not a specific IEC standard. Both are pretty common standard cords nowadays, and the IEC C5 cords have an added convenience in that they're usually the much more flexible flat cable w/GND. Of course IEC C13 cords are available in this style as well, but they're not as common.

I also notice that Banggood.com is now offering a "New" version of the OLED T12 controller; it apparently has a clock and battery-maintained memory for multiple iron profiles. (US$29)

It appears they also have a version of the FM-2028 handle (US$9-10), though it is wired for the genuine Hakko FX-951 soldering station.


Cheers, and good building!


mnem
T12-birds are GO!

All parts are now ordered for T12 OLED Blue version build and only cost me £33.92 all in. I did not get a power cord as I have boxes of the UK 13A plugged leads to fit IEC C14 connectors and 15 tips, so I ordered Controller, Case, Handle and Power supply so when it all arrives and is built it will be interesting to see what difference a controller can make as all other parts are common to both irons, 1 being a 4 core and the other a 5 core system, let battle commence. 

[djos]

I've just been given a 30" LCD monitor that is allegedly not working, not tested it as yet but it does come with seperate 24v 5A power supply which is working. So if I'm unable to resurrect the monitor, the power supply will find a new use supplying power to another T12 soldering station so thats an added bonus 

I moved offices just before going on annual Xmas leave and managed to acquire 4x 6.5 amp 19v HP laptop dock power bricks and some brand new USB keyboards and mice still in boxes. 

I'm thinking of building an Amiga 500 power supply from one and maybe another bench supply from another.

[mnementh]

You're welcome! I hope this list proves useful to anyone else looking to build one of these.

As with any such project, one person's SOW will differ from another's. Mine concentrates on minimal cash out lay and custom fabbing to achieve a certain form factor; yours clearly prioritizes other things.

When you said IEC, I thought it was the IEC safety rating you wanted, which both receptacles are (IEC C14 vs IEC C6), not a specific IEC standard. Both are pretty common standard cords nowadays, and the IEC C5 cords have an added convenience in that they're usually the much more flexible flat cable w/GND. Of course IEC C13 cords are available in this style as well, but they're not as common.

I also notice that Banggood.com is now offering a "New" version of the OLED T12 controller; it apparently has a clock and battery-maintained memory for multiple iron profiles. (US$29)

It appears they also have a version of the FM-2028 handle (US$9-10), though it is wired for the genuine Hakko FX-951 soldering station.


Cheers, and good building!


mnem
T12-birds are GO!

All parts are now ordered for T12 OLED Blue version build and only cost me £33.92 all in. I did not get a power cord as I have boxes of the UK 13A plugged leads to fit IEC C14 connectors and 15 tips, so I ordered Controller, Case, Handle and Power supply so when it all arrives and is built it will be interesting to see what difference a controller can make as all other parts are common to both irons, 1 being a 4 core and the other a 5 core system, let battle commence. 

In all honesty, I don't believe  performance-wise there will be a lot of difference from one controller to the next; I see the power supply and the gauge of the heater wires in the cable to the handle making the greatest difference in that arena. I believe the Quicko even uses the same firmware, so probably no usability difference to speak of either.

I've just been given a 30" LCD monitor that is allegedly not working, not tested it as yet but it does come with seperate 24v 5A power supply which is working. So if I'm unable to resurrect the monitor, the power supply will find a new use supplying power to another T12 soldering station so thats an added bonus 

I moved offices just before going on annual Xmas leave and managed to acquire 4x 6.5 amp 19v HP laptop dock power bricks and some brand new USB keyboards and mice still in boxes. 

I'm thinking of building an Amiga 500 power supply from one and maybe another bench supply from another.

Pick up one of these to make a half decent quick & dirty CC/CV power supply; I know from experience abusing them to power LiPo chargers that those HP 6.5A bricks will deliver 8A continuous for extended periods of time. Pretty sure you can parallel 'em without tripping the internal safety too.

If you wanna make it all tidy, they have some nice enclosures ready to fill with all that DPS goodness too.


mnem
*DIY-ily*

[djos]

I've just been given a 30" LCD monitor that is allegedly not working, not tested it as yet but it does come with seperate 24v 5A power supply which is working. So if I'm unable to resurrect the monitor, the power supply will find a new use supplying power to another T12 soldering station so thats an added bonus 

I moved offices just before going on annual Xmas leave and managed to acquire 4x 6.5 amp 19v HP laptop dock power bricks and some brand new USB keyboards and mice still in boxes. 

I'm thinking of building an Amiga 500 power supply from one and maybe another bench supply from another.

Pick up one of these to make a half decent quick & dirty CC/CV power supply; I know from experience abusing them to power LiPo chargers that those HP 6.5A bricks will deliver 8A continuous for extended periods of time. Pretty sure you can parallel 'em without tripping the internal safety too.

If you wanna make it all tidy, they have some nice enclosures ready to fill with all that DPS goodness too.


mnem
*DIY-ily*

That's pretty much what I was thinking too. 

[Specmaster]

Yeh, they look pretty good in those cases as well, perhaps they might even make a case large enough to get a linear power supply to feed it with, in the same case so it could become a cheap bench supply?

[Mr. Scram]

Yeh, they look pretty good in those cases as well, perhaps they might even make a case large enough to get a linear power supply to feed it with, in the same case so it could become a cheap bench supply?

Why would you feed a switcher with a linear supply, or am I misunderstanding you?

[Specmaster]

Yeh, they look pretty good in those cases as well, perhaps they might even make a case large enough to get a linear power supply to feed it with, in the same case so it could become a cheap bench supply?

Why would you feed a switcher with a linear supply, or am I misunderstanding you?

Well you could use another switcher I suppose, but I just thought that a linear would help provide a far smoother output.

[Mr. Scram]

Well you could use another switcher I suppose, but I just thought that a linear would help provide a far smoother output.

My gut tells me the output wouldn't be much different, with the switcher messing things up again. I'll readily admit I haven't tried it, so I might be wrong. Might make for a nice experiment. I've got some eBay modules that should provide a nicely noisy output I could chain together. Maybe next month.

[Specmaster]

Well you could use another switcher I suppose, but I just thought that a linear would help provide a far smoother output.

My gut tells me the output wouldn't be much different, with the switcher messing things up again. I'll readily admit I haven't tried it, so I might be wrong. Might make for a nice experiment. I've got some eBay modules that should provide a nicely noisy output I could chain together. Maybe next month.

Or why not replace the module in this unit with a mains switcher then you don't need 2 power supply modules?

[Brumby]

I just checked up on new posts and it took me to page 167.  Then I saw it was up to page 200.   

Just popped in again ... and we're up to page 232!  Sheesh.

I think I need to save up and spend a year in the USA - just cruising for test gear.

[Mr. Scram]

Or why not replace the module in this unit with a mains switcher then you don't need 2 power supply modules?

Just as an experiment I have a linear bench supply for lab work. I'm not planning to buy one of these units, but I'm curious whether having two switchers in series makes the output ripple any worse and the cheap eBay units would be nice stand-ins that I already own.

[Mr. Scram]

I think I need to save up and spend a year in the USA - just cruising for test gear.

"What do you mean, taking five oscilloscopes in the cabin isn't permitted?"

[SkyMaster]

A pair of Pomona 4119-50; 50 ohms BNC Feed-Thru Termination.

Pomona used to stamp the part number, but now they just stick a label around the housing 

I will probably add clear shrink tubing over the labels to protect them.

[beanflying]

I wonder how much of their range Pomona actually still makes 

I had a look a while back and their site has zero information on in house manufacturing. If Keysight thought it was ok to badge Chinese DSO's Pomana buying in Chinese wouldn't be surprising in the slightest.

[SkyMaster]

I wonder how much of their range Pomona actually still makes 

I had a look a while back and their site has zero information on in house manufacturing. If Keysight thought it was ok to badge Chinese DSO's Pomana buying in Chinese wouldn't be surprising in the slightest.

In the case of the Pomona 4119-50 that I bought from Mouser, the shipping label states that the country of origin is USA. But there is no USA marking on the terminations themselves.

Pomona normally identify the country of origin on the drawing/datasheet of the product... when it is made in USA. But do they redo the drawing/datasheet if (or when) they move the production oversea? 

 

[mnementh]

I've just been given a 30" LCD monitor that is allegedly not working, not tested it as yet but it does come with seperate 24v 5A power supply which is working. So if I'm unable to resurrect the monitor, the power supply will find a new use supplying power to another T12 soldering station so thats an added bonus 

I moved offices just before going on annual Xmas leave and managed to acquire 4x 6.5 amp 19v HP laptop dock power bricks and some brand new USB keyboards and mice still in boxes. 

I'm thinking of building an Amiga 500 power supply from one and maybe another bench supply from another.

Pick up one of these to make a half decent quick & dirty CC/CV power supply; I know from experience abusing them to power LiPo chargers that those HP 6.5A bricks will deliver 8A continuous for extended periods of time. Pretty sure you can parallel 'em without tripping the internal safety too.

If you wanna make it all tidy, they have some nice enclosures ready to fill with all that DPS goodness too.


mnem
*DIY-ily*

That's pretty much what I was thinking too. 

I have a couple DPS50V20As in a box along with one of these against the day I figure out how to turn it on; yes I have a 220V outlet near my bench. I'm not in the least bit worried about powering a SMPS with a SMPS; I figure if they don't wanna play nice together the video will be awesome on (anti)social media.


If they do play well together, then I can probably light up a whole baseball field with it.  I imagine my collection of DPS1200FBs will get to feeling a little jealous, however. 


mnem
*Juicy*

[TheUnnamedNewbie]

Update on the current state of my lab. HP8657A on it's way to be added later.
Idea is that I am going to build a bunch of 19" wide racks on top, 4 or 5U high, and have above that be shelves. That way big rack gear can sit in a rack safely, and I have shelving above it to put smaller stuff, parts bins, etc.
Really happy how this turned out, massive depth (1m30 iirc). about 1m05 high so I can work while standing up. The thing is so deep my girlfriend can't easily reach any gear ('tis not a bug, its a feature!).

Now that has the potential to become a real fab lab. Where is that, in a garage or basement? Love the work bench, plenty of space to dump large pieces of kit for repair on without fear of it falling off.

Basement. The space was a requirement. My main reason to get a new table was to get more space, so I just went all-out. 2m60 wide!

[Specmaster]

Hmm, the monitor I was given was showing signs of the "2 seconds to black syndrome" but testing today connected to my computer revealed that was not the case at all. With no input it did indeed just do a quick flash and drop into standby mode. with an input it no longer did that and the screen lit up a dull grey and the brilliance buttons function normally so I can get the whole screen to go a slightly brighter shad of grey.

No image on the screen however but at least it is able to detect that it is receiving an input and keep the backlight switched on, so I think its worthy of further investigation, I might just stumble across something, who knows.

For those who are interested it is a Crossover 30Q5 PRO 2560 x 1600 pixels IPS screen and the panel itself is the same one as used by Apple in their "Cinema" display and goes for £1,100 so is really capable of some stunning displays if I can get it working again. There is precious little information about on line as it a Korean product.

[bd139]

It’s going to be capacitors somewhere. Almost certainly. Same symptom with my Samsung Tv.