My 0-12 just stopped displaying a trace. Nothing catastrophic happened and the rear of the CRT still lights up, worked just fine last night.
Exact coarse of events, crt was loose and so it rotated when i moved it.
I open it and very carefully rotated it back.
I take extreme caution and tighten the clamp.
Quick test, still works and is even.
Back in the case it goes and to bed i went.
No trace this morning.
Anyone got any hints or ideas? I hope i didn't screw damage it.
*FIXED*
Don't ask me how but all i did was i yelled, "Work you miserable cur!" at it.
Imagine my surprise when that worked.
So threatening a good dropping or getting out the hammer is a valid repair method too then
"Percussive Maintenance"; an engineering staple since the days of steam, my friend.
Quick T12 update ... this is the bodger's iron set up...
MyDel 13.8V 22A power supply -> Chinese boost converter to 24V -> DC T12 -> hacked up 9501 handle wedged in a Weller TCP stand. Works really well although the Chinese boost converter makes some painful screams when it is initially heating up. I think it's the windings on the inductor vibrating. When in use it doesn't scream.
This thing is a joy to work SMD with the K tips.
This is exactly what I'm building for my portable rig, and the same exact Boost Regulator as well. I'm also using its Buck Regulator cousin on my FIRST build, as once rectified the trans brings either 18.5V half-wave or 37V full-wave. I've been running the beast at 18.5V and it heated up in about 20 seconds, but it has recently developed a serious issue in that temp response is very poor, where it was pretty good even at the lower voltage. Used to be I could stab it right into a wet sponge and it just sat there right around 290-295° then climbed back up to 300° after a second or less; now it drops to 180-200° before it starts to come back up. This seems to be so on every tip.
Since I received my 150W Buck reg I've been running it at 28V and it's a lot better, but I need to do the diag work and figure out where the voltage drop is. I had been running it at 28V on a 4A buck reg when I first got it that never seemed to run hot but eventually died; I suspect a resultant "Dead FET Walking" scenario where the series pass transistor in the controller still works but just isn't up to snuff.
Well that was impressive LOL! (see pics). Connected a 48v input to the DPS5015 and a capacitor can hit the ceiling Yes, the polarity was correct - at least according to the silk screen on the PCBs - so need to look a bit closer at that. I'll put a new cap in DSP5015 and see if there's any life left in the thing, and this time check what the Chinese '48v PSU' is really putting out before connecting it...
Did you buy it from BANGgood or BangGood?
Thats very good
BG is pretty much a staple anymore in the RC Hobbyist field; like Wal-mart, sooner or later EVERYBODY shops there.
They are commonly known as "Bang-BAD", "Bang'emGood", "BunkGoods", and "Banged-UpGoods" plus dozens more similar variants.
I've gotten dozens of bad items from them; some have been quite annoying, but all were eventually resolved to my satisfaction. of course, lately my track record with Wally-World has been similarly abysmal from a sample of a lot fewer purchases.
I received a bunk dual 5W LED bike headlight that I had to go through Customer Support 3 times before it got sorted; first got a visibly used unit with dead LEDs, which after going back & forth with their customer support, they shipped out a replacement... which when it arrived turned out to be a no-name cassette Walkman which shelf wear indicated it had been kicking around a warehouse since cassette Walkmans were a "thing". Eventually I DID get a WORKING unit; but only after 33 eMails and 2 months.
That said... I've probably spent thousands with them on my RC hobby; and even when they ship you bunk, they'll eventually make it right... you just have to be persistent and keep in mind a "kill them with kindness" level of patience when dealing with their customer support. They, along with DealeXtreme.com and Goodluckbuy.com, are about as close to a "China-direct Supermarket" as you're going to get. AliEx is more like a China-direct fleaBay; where every vendor is a crapshoot and you really need to do your homework, or be willing to take a (relatively small) chance on just losing your money.
Oh fook. I think I know where the problem is with that mains PSU. Output voltage is quoted as being NOT +50v but +/-50v. I have a bad feeling the negative terminal was actually -50v while the postive was +50v. The ground terminal in the middle. So potential difference 100V... Should have read the advert more carefully I think.
Oh feck, you're right, is it still working? if so, and your Amazon turns out to be correct then it wont have been an expensive mistake after all?
Edit.
It would make sense seeing as it was designed as a power supply for Hi-Fi amps which would more then likely be push pull outputs with -/+ rails.
D'OH!!!
I hate to admit it, but I have made the EXACT same stuffup, only it was a LiPo charger I inadvertently hooked up to +36V/0V/-36V linear power supply from an old home theater amp that was very conveniently all on one PCB, with the transformer bolted through. Much hilarity did ensue, and the poor thing shuffled off the mortal coil with great and mighty crackleage, smoke and a pitiful squeal like HAL 9000 imitating Pac-man dying. The linear PSU just went "Ominous HUM-M-M-M-M..."...
I had one bounce off my head once when I was a kid. Teaches you a lot of respect for the things.
And that is the reason for bd139 being the person he is today...........
This explains SO-O-O much...
mnem
"Sooo... you don't want to connect to my iPad, eh, Mr. Broadcomm? Sounds like you need a little personal attention... Oh, that's no problem; I have a 'scope handy, and the probes are nice & CO-O-OLD..."