Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[cyclin_al]

Mmmmmokaaaayyyy... can anyone who can be arsed to respond to this twisted tale confirm that they have actually seen one of the above-mentioned hipsters riding an actual fixxie? As in, direct-drive, etc...?

Yes, I've seen loads around the Hoxton and Shoreditch areas.

I have even seen them in winter.  It is actually easier, because the rider can easily skid the rear wheel instead of keeping that fine control needed.
The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.
I'll certainly agree that it is twisted.

At least around here, coaster brakes are rare, not even common on kids bikes now...

[Cerebus]

The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.

Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.

* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983

[mnementh]

A surprise package arrived today from the Great White North. An "offical" Tek Alignment Tool Kit.  I can certainly put that to good use. Especially some of the odd ball lengths and sizes. Some adjustments can be a real pain if you don't have the right tool. This kit solves that problem.

Mnem, can't thank you enough!     

Neomys Sapiens hooked me up with those last winter; at the time I was way excited, thinking I had the magical toolkit for maintaining my beloved 2465s & maybe some of my other analog kit. When it got here I realized it was all much larger scale tools than I needed; that was when I noted the copyright date in the destruction sheet putting them a generation or two too old for anything in my stable. 

While I was working on those feet for you (between needling you for not having a digital caliper and then procuring same ), I considered that I had used those things all of once in over a year, and that only because they were more convenient ATM, not because I really needed them. I realized that they belonged with you, our resident hollow state Tek curator, not languishing at the bottom of a storage bin. But I literally tore the house apart for two days looking and couldn't find them; they were what was holding up shipment of the feet. 

Eventually I admitted defeet (I know the Grelber took them ) and shipped the feets & calipers out... and of course, they day they got to you, the Tek Alignment kit resurfaced in a bin in the shed.

So then I printed up a couple caps for the recycled Saran wrap tube/box I was keeping them in (I'd actually designed those bits months ago but never got around to printing because... Grelber, missing kit, etc  ) and sent them out as a extra surprise.

You have no idea how hard it was to keep mum all this while!

mnem

[mindcrime]

Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:







I haven't powered it up yet, as I've been advised that given its age, lack of recent use, and known potential issues, I should open it up first and inspect for some possible dodgy battery cells and/or capacitors, as well as the odd loose screw or nut or what-have-you that might be rattling around inside. Nonetheless, I'm excited to have this little gem and look forward to working out what applications I can put it to. Apparently additional modules are also still available on Ebay as well, to add functionality.


I won't identify the forum member who sent this to me, in case he doesn't want attention called to himself. Rather I'll leave it to him to decide if he wants to "out" himself or not.

[mnementh]

like a broken record ... round and round we go

I found my mini o-ring kit from Princess Auto!  Actually, I did not know I even had the kit  This is after I ordered the big red kit; I have to go sometime soon to pick it up.

But of course, it cannot be that easy.  The ring labelled 3/32 ID has a cross section of more than 1.5mm.  MeasuredApproximated with my cheap Princess Auto calipers with the dead battery  Same thing with the 3/8 (9mm) size; the cross section is way too big at over 1.5mm.

The only reason I found the o-rings and a whole bunch of tape measures is because I was searching for something else...

Oklay... first; the 3/32ID x 3/32 cross section definitely is the one you want. You just need to lube your shaft a little and it'll pop right in there.




This guy has the process down, tho I just cut the stepped part of the poly bushing off with an X-Acto knife.

Also, I'm using Team Losi # TLR-74014 60WT (800cst equiv) silicone shock oil, bought locally here: https://pinnaclehobby.ca/products/tlr-74014-60-wt-shock-oil

Oh, also-also, I didn't like how using an o-ring on the top cap left it holding on by only a couple threads, so I made gaskets out of a thin pizza box. I used the kind with the plastic film coating on one side, so I could leave that facing the oil:

            




And finally, I took my can of ChainLube and sprayed some out into a small cup, then dipped that onto all the dogbones and CV joints to make sure they get some lube. The ChainLube goo sticks in there pretty good.

Also, unless you like buying body clips by the bagful, you'll want to take some 20lb fishing line and make a lanyard for each of the clips for the battery, tied to the battery hold-down.


   These are the extra batteries I bought, as they (and their slightly smaller 1600mAH brothers) were the only thing of the right size that I could count on getting before the summer was over: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08FD81F4F/

They're a drop-in replacement for the ones that come in these cars; first testing is very promising with cells well matched at a nice low 9-10 milli-Ω and so far, taking aboot 1600mAH to bring them back up to full on my big charger. We'll see how they hold up. 

I won't grump too much if you leave the eebil Deans' connectors on 'em.  And the LiPo charging/storage bag is just good safety practice. 

Cheers,

mnem
Now I know what happens to my tape measures: The Grelber throws them into a wormhole that exits in your baliwick...

[xrunner]

Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:

"I just felt a disturbance in the force Luke ..."

Aha so that's how they did it! 

[mnementh]

...The 24V kit with thumb throttle wound up paired to the 36V-rated motor above, as my first trial is going to be with one of my 6S Kobalt Drill/Impact Driver batteries, and I need to match the ESC's LVC to the battery. I'm hoping that underdriving the motor will keep the current draw within the limits of the BMS in the pack even carting me around; I've drawn almost 20A from one of these before when powering my LiPo charger in motor test mode. 

   With the thumb-throttle, ESC and battery in the bag, the whole thing adds less than 5kg to the bike. I think that's a more than fair tradeoff for my intended purpose.


mnem

Today's trial was very promising. I rode my fatBike under electric power all the way to our local park, pedaled it all around the park (avoiding the water-spray splash zone full of idiot parents and their little kids, not one of them wearing a mask...  ) until I couldn't breathe, then rode it home under power, then rode it two times around the block before it started to really slow down without it once going into shutdown. 

Quick check as soon as I climbed off the bike showed 2 lights left on a fully-charged battery pack; while touch test found the motor, battery pack and even the spade connectors plugged into the battery just barely warm to the touch.   

Acceleration is modest at best... top speed on level aboot 12KPH according to my cheap Bike-Puter, and while it will come up to speed from a dead stop while hauling my fat arse, it probably will not do so up any serious incline, which is just fine. My use-case is almost entirely level streets, and if that changes I can always swap out for higher-current-capable LiPos at the same or higher voltage using the 36V ESC that came with the kit. 

I may build up some adapters so I can do wattage & mAH consumption rate with my power analyzer; but first, I believe I need to get a battery plug-in adapter printed up and maybe a working kickstand, etc...


      https://www.amazon.ca/Bresuve-Kickstands-Kickstand-Adjustable-Aluminum/dp/B07TXKQQCP/

Speaking of which... can anybody here tell me if these work worth a flying fuck? It looks like it would be a perfect fit if they aren't just pure Craptonium.

mnem
 

[cyclin_al]

The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.

Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.

* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983

The regulations here have become "performance based" rather than "prescriptive".  However, they lack performance measures.
Road vehicles must have a means of braking and stopping, but there is no mention of stopping within a certain time or distance or any other metric.
I have heard stories of conversations between various people and police officers, sometimes resulting in a ticket being issued, sometimes not...
Being catapulted off such a bicycle is a means of stopping, but not a quick or a safe means.

I prefer brakes on both front and back wheels.

[cyclin_al]

like a broken record ... round and round we go

I found my mini o-ring kit from Princess Auto!  Actually, I did not know I even had the kit  This is after I ordered the big red kit; I have to go sometime soon to pick it up.

But of course, it cannot be that easy.  The ring labelled 3/32 ID has a cross section of more than 1.5mm.  MeasuredApproximated with my cheap Princess Auto calipers with the dead battery  Same thing with the 3/8 (9mm) size; the cross section is way too big at over 1.5mm.

The only reason I found the o-rings and a whole bunch of tape measures is because I was searching for something else...

Oklay... first; the 3/32ID x 3/32 cross section definitely is the one you want. You just need to lube your shaft a little and it'll pop right in there.




This guy has the process down, tho I just cut the stepped part of the poly bushing off with an X-Acto knife.

Also, I'm using Team Losi # TLR-74014 60WT (800cst equiv) silicone shock oil, bought locally here: https://pinnaclehobby.ca/products/tlr-74014-60-wt-shock-oil

Oh, also-also, I didn't like how using an o-ring on the top cap left it holding on by only a couple threads, so I made gaskets out of a thin pizza box. I used the kind with the plastic film coating on one side, so I could leave that facing the oil:

            




And finally, I took my can of ChainLube and sprayed some out into a small cup, then dipped that onto all the dogbones and CV joints to make sure they get some lube. The ChainLube goo sticks in there pretty good.

Also, unless you like buying body clips by the bagful, you'll want to take some 20lb fishing line and make a lanyard for each of the clips for the battery, tied to the battery hold-down.


   These are the extra batteries I bought, as they (and their slightly smaller 1600mAH brothers) were the only thing of the right size that I could count on getting before the summer was over: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08FD81F4F/

They're a drop-in replacement for the ones that come in these cars; first testing is very promising with cells well matched at a nice low 9-10milli-Ω and so far, taking aboot 1600mAH to bring them back up to full on my big charger. We'll see how they hold up. 

I won't grump too much if you leave the eebil Deans' connectors on 'em.  And the LiPo charging/storage bag is just good safety practice. 

Cheers,

mnem
Now I know what happens to my tape measures: The Grelber throws them into a wormhole that exits in your baliwick...

Thanks for all that info.  So far, I have been playing along from my chair, with no practical experience in these things.... until now.
Canada Post stopped by for home delivery      UNBELIEVABLE!
The parcel was beat up, but the contents visually looked okay on  a very quick inspection.  Contents had to be well hidden quickly before the kid arrived home from school. 

Of course, the Canada Post really was too good to be true.  They also left a note in the community mailbox saying that I have to drive into the city (not just into town) about 30 km away to pick up some other package.    It is probably those triangle bit screwdrivers that I ordered in April, March or February ... too long ago to remember now.

[beanflying]

I took this Felt Track Bike I got basically brand new and took it for a couple of careful rides in pure fixie mode. My Leg muscles were no way up to the stopping task but I was on the flat in a very quiet country town. 

In Oz 'all bikes' need at least one brake fitted so the hipster death cult runs front calipers and if they are any good aid it with some resistance on the pedals. However I am much happier with this SRAM compromise, two speeds and a coaster hub brake fitted and it has all but a few bike nerds wondering how I ride it on the road Reminds me I need to pull the hub apart for some flywheel trimming to shift the shift point up a bit. Currently it kicks into second at about 20km/hr I want that at 25-28 as kicking into top gear pushing up a hill really isn't cool 

Edit no front caliper the back wheel can be locked up if needed.

[cyclin_al]

...The 24V kit with thumb throttle wound up paired to the 36V-rated motor above, as my first trial is going to be with one of my 6S Kobalt Drill/Impact Driver batteries, and I need to match the ESC's LVC to the battery. I'm hoping that underdriving the motor will keep the current draw within the limits of the BMS in the pack even carting me around; I've drawn almost 20A from one of these before when powering my LiPo charger in motor test mode. 

   With the thumb-throttle, ESC and battery in the bag, the whole thing adds less than 5kg to the bike. I think that's a more than fair tradeoff for my intended purpose.


mnem

Today's trial was very promising. I rode my fatBike under electric power all the way to our local park, pedaled it all around the park (avoiding the water-spray splash zone full of idiot parents and their little kids, not one of them wearing a mask...  ) until I couldn't breathe, then rode it home under power, then rode it two times around the block before it started to really slow down without it once going into shutdown. 

Quick check as soon as I climbed off the bike showed 2 lights left on a fully-charged battery pack; while touch test found the motor, battery pack and even the spade connectors plugged into the battery just barely warm to the touch.   

Acceleration is modest at best... top speed on level aboot 12KPH according to my cheap Bike-Puter, and while it will come up to speed from a dead stop while hauling my fat arse, it probably will not do so up any serious incline, which is just fine. My use-case is almost entirely level streets, and if that changes I can always swap out for higher-current-capable LiPos at the same or higher voltage using the 36V ESC that came with the kit. 

I may build up some adapters so I can do wattage & mAH consumption rate with my power analyzer; but first, I believe I need to get a battery plug-in adapter printed up and maybe a working kickstand, etc...


      https://www.amazon.ca/Bresuve-Kickstands-Kickstand-Adjustable-Aluminum/dp/B07TXKQQCP/

Speaking of which... can anybody here tell me if these work worth a flying fuck? It looks like it would be a perfect fit if they aren't just pure Craptonium.

mnem
 

For the kickstand, I do not recommend the one pictured.  It is bolted only to the chainstay.  As a result, it has to be bolted tightly in order to hold any bike, and yours is on the heavy side.  You do not want to crush the chainstay, nor do you want it to slip & twist and topple the bike.  Keep looking for a kickstand that bolts to both the chainstay and the seatstay.  This way, the stand will not twist and you will not have to risk crushing any of the stays.

Also, check the length of the kickstand.  You want the bike to rest at an angle where it is stable.  I probably do not have to say it, but I am sure you can handle (tinker with tools) a stand that is too long.  One that is too short ... not much can be done.

For riding, you want a smooth pedalling motion to protect your knees.  70-80 RPM is the recommendation.  Faster rotation may cause bouncing on the bike; slower is mashing the pedals.  It will seem fast at first, but it all comes down to the equation for torque.  W = F x s.  The higher RPM means your pedals travel further.  As a result, you need to greatly (perceived) reduce the pedalling force to achieve the same work.  Less force is good for the knees    Most people when they first try that RPM range forget to reduce the force and go bat crazy until they are exhausted moments later.  Consciously keep your speed down and eventually you will get used to it.

Happy knees = happy ride

[mnementh]

I've always ridden for comfortable pedaling, not speed. This bike has a right delicious hill-climber gear that is almost too slow for me to keep my balance; I use it heavily and have been in the habit of completing a shift to my lowest gear before I get off the bike since I was like 13.

I was afraid of the condition you suggest when I asked; a mount like that one depends on the wall of the chainstay having a profile which matches the contour of the casting very closely to work, and with the rubber in there I have my doubts. Unfortunately, the kind you're talking aboot want to go in the space already occupied by the motor & plate... I've already been looking. 

I can try one of the old-fashioned ones that go right in the crux under the crankset... but I'm aboot 90% certain there's no way I'll be able to operate that with my foot due to the motor in the way. Also, those fuckers always come loose and flop around... 

I was hoping that one might be good enough, as the way it mounts I could put it right between motor and pedals, so should be able to work it with a foot. 

mnem
grr. arrg.

[beanflying]

Due to the risk of dropping a bike when on a stand or getting it bumped or blown over most I ride with even socially don't use them.

[beanflying]

Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:

..
I haven't powered it up yet, as I've been advised that given its age, lack of recent use, and known potential issues, I should open it up first and inspect for some possible dodgy battery cells and/or capacitors, as well as the odd loose screw or nut or what-have-you that might be rattling around inside. Nonetheless, I'm excited to have this little gem and look forward to working out what applications I can put it to. Apparently additional modules are also still available on Ebay as well, to add functionality.


I won't identify the forum member who sent this to me, in case he doesn't want attention called to himself. Rather I'll leave it to him to decide if he wants to "out" himself or not.

So this is what Obi-Wan was looking at?

edit must read the thread more carefully  xrunner 

[cyclin_al]

I've always ridden for comfortable pedaling, not speed. This bike has a right delicious hill-climber gear that is almost too slow for me to keep my balance; I use it heavily and have been in the habit of completing a shift to my lowest gear before I get off the bike since I was like 13.

I was afraid of the condition you suggest when I asked; a mount like that one depends on the wall of the chainstay having a profile which matches the contour of the casting very closely to work, and with the rubber in there I have my doubts. Unfortunately, the kind you're talking aboot want to go in the space already occupied by the motor & plate... I've already been looking. 

I can try one of the old-fashioned ones that go right in the crux under the crankset... but I'm aboot 90% certain there's no way I'll be able to operate that with my foot due to the motor in the way. Also, those fuckers always come loose and flop around... 

I was hoping that one might be good enough, as the way it mounts I could put it right between motor and pedals, so should be able to work it with a foot. 

mnem
grr. arrg.

Okay, so I was not considering the configuration of your particular bike.  It is more nuanced than my earlier response.

Most recently modern bikes I have seen do not have the plate joining the chainstays just behind the bottom bracket, under the crankset as you call it, so lack of a mounting point is yet another reason for discounting that style.  You already discounted that one for good reasons.

The kickstand you pictured has three bolts to secure it to the chainstay.  I am wondering if you could use some plate metal to make a stabilizer?  Maybe attach it to the upper two bolts of the kickstand on the exterior side or in the pinch between the two halves?  The stabilizer would be attached at the other end to a motor mount or seatstay?

To be an enabler suitable to this crowd, how about another look at the EasyComposites youtube videos?  After all, I heard about these videos from this crowd 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7F-suscQATns3qRYHpyijw

[mnementh]

Due to the risk of dropping a bike when on a stand or getting it bumped or blown over most I ride with even socially don't use them.

Yeah; the one that came on it has this ingenious latching mechanism that actually prevents the bike from being able to roll off the stand; I've shoved the bike pretty hard with my fat ass and it just digs in and shoves me back. 

Maybe finding a way to put it back on would be be a better solution... tho it would require that I completely rebuild the rear wheel with an over-length axle so I can fit it under the lugnut... 

Gawddammitt... I just found a 240mm extended axle (made for fatbike) in stock on Amazon for $18, and by my measurement I need a minimum 130mm, so that actually gives me some leeway. Both that and the  kickstand will be here by Sunday; I'll get something on there that works.

mnem
fuck both of you. bastards.

[mnementh]

...I prefer brakes on both front and back wheels.

Learned that lesson the hard way eating turf from a endo on a BMX bike while still very young... have had it ingrained in my very ever DNA since. 

mnem
"If it don't go, yer walkin'. Iff'n it don't stop, yer fooked." ~grand-dad

[mnementh]

This same exact thing happened to me when I had my wisdom teeth out; only it was Zork, I had been made Grand Vizier of the entire dungeon, and the Grue &  I were having a baby. 🥴

mnem
Oh, those were some good drugs...

[dl6lr]

Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:

Disturbance analyzer... To be used on the next zoom call?

[Robert763]

The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.

Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.

* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983

Mmm,
The regulations DO allow for no brakes on bikes without freewheels IF at least one wheel is >460mm and it was made before 1984. They also allow for no brakes on the ultimate "fixie" where the pedals act directly on the wheel without any gearing or chain.

[tggzzz]

The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.

Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.

* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983

I'm not too worried about people that are candidates for a Darwin Award. I do care about people that could KSI other people.

[VK5RC]

@beanflying  the 'stack' of 10 perspex numbers seems to be about 20mm thick - so at least 1.5mm thick sheet.
Regards Rob

[beanflying]

@beanflying  the 'stack' of 10 perspex numbers seems to be about 20mm thick - so at least 1.5mm thick sheet.
Regards Rob

Thanks, I have plenty of 2mm so I will make a stack and breakout some baby SMD LED's I have for a play.

edit found a Little Creatures Beer and Fusion while dinner cooks. Also found my stash of 0603 high intensity LED's.

[tggzzz]

Tomorrow's PPAuction has a Datron 4000 and 4708A calibrator for sale.

Head wants, so look at datasheet.

26kg Edit: 36kg/80lb, so back and joists don't want

[VK5RC]

@beanflying  the 'stack' of 10 perspex numbers seems to be about 20mm thick - so at least 1.5mm thick sheet.
Regards Rob

Thanks, I have plenty of 2mm so I will make a stack and breakout some baby SMD LED's I have for a play.

edit found a Little Creatures Beer and Fusion while dinner cooks. Also found my stash of 0603 high intensity LED's.

Double 👍