Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mansaxel]

Just for fun I once put the adapter into the small electronics handle, put in an 1/4" to 1/2" adapter, added a 30mm nut and gave to our mechanics guy with a serious look on my face. Made my day.

Well played!

I've not got the insulated torque screwdriver, but instead this kit:



And since that will let me use any 1/4" bit, a hex->square adapter, both 1/4", will let me use sockets et c.

[mnementh]

P.S. could really use one of them exploding cats, to install in this computer  , had lots of problems with it the last few days, it froze shortly after an error appeared and then refused to boot afterwards (not even a beep from the motherboard), it's done this twice now, I suspect a hardware problem. 

It could easily be a windows update (if that's your OS). My laptop started behaving oddly after updating yesterday, the line detection doesn't work properly now and it keeps dropping in and out, with accompanying beep (until I got annoyed and turned the sound off).
Naturally I checked the output from the brick as I thought the high ambient t was making it shut down, but nope. Just windows being windows.   

Bit behind on here again.....

It's done it again over the weekend, I'm fairly certain it's a hardware problem, as it refused to do anything other than spin fans/drives up and light the LED on the front. To rule out the OS (win 10) I unplugged the HDD's and still couldn't get anything for a while after repeatedly trying, I would normally expect the motherboard beep & show the boot screen, then the post info, would have thought an error about no drives too.

Not sure I can be bothered investigating further as the PC is getting on a bit, the motherboard & CPU are from 2008, I did replace the cheap nasty Coolermaster PSU after it failed in 2011 (filled with CrapXon caps & not enough space to fit decent parts, due to component density). The GPU, RAM and HDD's got upgraded in 2014.

Might be time for a partial rebuild with new motherboard, CPU, RAM, SSD, etc. Thinking of going for a Ryzen 3700X (65W), not sure about the rest yet, as I need to see if I can find a motherboard with correct expansion slots for the GPU & other cards.

David

Just as much for those playing along at home as for you, my friend :

Don't forget to go here and do some research; https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu/

Check parts pricing now vs history so you don't fuck yourself paying too much for something which price has tanked for some unknown reason.

A couple hours spent there can save you a few hundred or more, depending on build.

mnem

[Cerebus]

Finally got my second dose of Bill G nanoparticles. Installing windows on all my things now.

More seriously, full on macguyver mode today. It’s amazing that projects get 99.9% complete and then someone realises they forgot a critical part like make A talk to B  . Thus sticky tape it is 

Use bailing wire, it lasts longer than sticky tape. 

[mnementh]

Any time I have the switch beyond the light such that the white wire was the switched hot going back to the box with the light fixture, it gets marked at both ends with black heat shrink.  When the white in three conductor cabling is acting as a traveler between three or four way switches and may be hot at times, it gets marked with red HS at the ends.

Back stab receptacles are tools of the devil..  Current code still allows them, but now only for 15A circuits and the holes permit the insertion of #14 wire only; they're too small for #12.  Still won't use them that way.  In fact, I do pigtails in receptacle boxes so the downstream circuitry is wire-nutted together rather than relying on sequential screw connections on all the upstream receptacles to pass the current.  A bit of extra work, but more reliable in my opinion.

-Pat

US wiring is weird. Some things are very gung-ho, some things are so anal that you'd think NEC never went to the bathroom, ever.

In Sweden, almost all  house wiring is in PVC conduit, which may be nailed to framing inside drywall clad walls, cast into concrete, or laid in chiseled cutouts made in masonry/expanded concrete walls which are then covered with mortar.

In conduit, one may pull insulated wires that are either single-wire (EK), 7-strand (FK) or more strands (MK or RK). Our "Romex" / "T&E" / "NYM-J", called EKK may these days be pulled in conduit too, which earlier was not allowed. EKK may also, which is another EU harmonisation, be hid behind mortar, which was not OK in the 80s. It is not allowed to run it inside drywall without conduit. The original installation method was nailing it to the wall using clips.




Areas start at 1,5mm² for a 10A circuit.  Colour code is European harmonised,

Phase	Black or Brown
Neutral	Blue
Protective earth	Yellow/green

Additionally, white tends to be used as a "lighting wire" which means going from the switch to the light, and denoting that the circuit is controlled.  Old installs had red as PE, and I've got lots of green and yellow lighting wire in my conduit. All these colours are largely frowned upon today, not enough to mandate rewiring, but certainly to block new construction. 

We had a period of wire nuts from about 1970 to 1990. They now are mostly obsolete, as are the "submarines", one-entry screw clamps.



Most joins are made with Wago 221's now.



Personally, I hate wire nuts, and love 221's. They are fantastic. And of course, a bit expensive. But worth it.

Marking is done, if at all, on the outlet/switch face, and indicates the fuse number and distribution board.

I'm going to be the village asshole and state that I don't trust any long-term/permanent connection which relies on the strength of plastic to maintain contact pressure necessary to make a high-current connection. I see these as barely better than Scotch-Loks and back-stab electrical outlets.

Particularly with solid-core wire, part of making a good connection is the covalent area created by flattening/deformation of the wire by screwing down under a screw or  twisting and nutting. IMO, you simply cannot apply adequate force to make that deformation happen pressing against plastic, no matter how much mechanical leverage your cam-dingus makes.

mnem
Of course, I may be wrong, YMMV, DQMOT, DILLIGAF, etc...

[mnementh]

There’s something to be said in support of a proper apprenticeship scheme where a year or two of gripping and dragging cables builds sufficient strength to twist a screwdriver with sufficient force to make a properly sound connection.   Limp wristed sparkles need be shown the door and warned not to let it hit them on the way out ! 

   Harsh words considering that we are now having an influx of the fairer sex into the trade now, who probably don't have that degree of strength in their wrists and any attempt to show the door is likely to, especially if she is a batshit crazy red head going to be rather painful 

There; FTFY. Wouldn't want you to miss out on your joy just because eevblog still hasn't figured out how not to gag on a 19kilobyte gif and refuses to properly display any images stored on the servers since before GorillArmageddon... 

mnem
duck-plucking misbegotten forum software from the dark ages of UseNet...   

[Cymaphore]

I'm going to be the village asshole and state that I don't trust any connection which relies on the strength of plastic to maintain contact pressure necessary to make a high-current connection. I see these as barely better than Scotch-Loks and back-stab electrical outlets.

Particularly with solid-core wire, part of making a good connection is the covalent area created by flattening/deformation of the wire by screwing down under a screw or  twisting and nutting. IMO, you simply cannot apply adequate force to make that deformation happen pressing against plastic, no matter how much mechanical leverage your cam-dingus makes.

You are correct. Put 120A by a 221-402 for ~30 minutes. That will remove the plastic case. But only do it in a fireproof environment wearing appropriate breath protection. If you don't have something like this: Don't do it.

However, after removal of the plastics, the electric connection will still be perfectly intact without loss of contact pressure.

It's a brass spring pressing the wire(s) down on a copper bus bar, all of that covered by an anti-corrosion elloy.

Same for all the CEE7-Outlets with spring terminals I know. The plastics is only used for release, never for the actual contact.

...unless you look at many 50c terminals from China. They quite often use metal spring on a plastic "busbar", especially in cheap LED Lights. Only the spring acts as busbar then. Pure shit.

[bd139]

Finally got my second dose of Bill G nanoparticles. Installing windows on all my things now.

More seriously, full on macguyver mode today. It’s amazing that projects get 99.9% complete and then someone realises they forgot a critical part like make A talk to B  . Thus sticky tape it is 

Use bailing wire, it lasts longer than sticky tape. 

I think Go is my bailing wire. This one involved writing my own specialised UDP version of netcat with backpressure circuit breaker in it 

[mnementh]

I'm going to be the village asshole and state that I don't trust any connection which relies on the strength of plastic to maintain contact pressure necessary to make a high-current connection. I see these as barely better than Scotch-Loks and back-stab electrical outlets.

Particularly with solid-core wire, part of making a good connection is the covalent area created by flattening/deformation of the wire by screwing down under a screw or  twisting and nutting. IMO, you simply cannot apply adequate force to make that deformation happen pressing against plastic, no matter how much mechanical leverage your cam-dingus makes.

You are correct. Put 120A by a 221-402 for ~30 minutes. That will remove the plastic case. But only do it in a fireproof environment wearing appropriate breath protection. If you don't have something like this: Don't do it.

However, after removal of the plastics, the electric connection will still be perfectly intact without loss of contact pressure.

It's a brass spring pressing the wire(s) down on a copper bus bar, all of that covered by an anti-corrosion elloy.

Same for all the CEE7-Outlets with spring terminals I know. The plastics is only used for release, never for the actual contact.

...unless you look at many 50c terminals from China. They quite often use metal spring on a plastic "busbar", especially in cheap LED Lights. Only the spring acts as busbar then. Pure shit.

I stand corrected.

EDIT:

Except that if it's using spring pressure, it is not enough to create the deliberate deformation of the wire I was talking aboot. You have no way of knowing if there is plastic in some part of the cam mechanism that can melt/deform away, decreasing that pressure unless you take one of every package you buy apart to make sure. You also have no way of knowing if the person doing any particular job bought decent or shite ones.

And yet the same connection under a properly-tightened screw terminal/barrier strip will rise by a few 10s of degrees. Still seems like inadequate contact pressure to me, just like a back-stab electrical outlet. And if it gets that hot, then the wire-cladding will be similarly ...

Welcome to the wire-nuttery, BTW... you'll fit right in.

The neverending taco truck is in the corner; their BEC breakfast tacos are epic. bean's been finding new ways to beat Frustion360 into submission, so new widgetry should be soon forthcoming; Papa Smurf is balls-deep in his type 547, and swears they're doing just fine, so...    bd139 is back on the wagon so expect some bd-BOOM!!! moments any time now.  If you see Saskia pulling something from a gunny sack, look out; it's probably the liver of a real estate agent who failed her.  The crusty old Aardvark in the corner is mostly harmless, unless you see him tinkering with his GPSDO. Somebody needs to remind him that "Time is an illusion; lunchtime doubly so..." and since you're the new guy, looks like you're elected. 

Oh, and the pervy little dragon fancier schtick is mine; but I do offer a workshop on Discord almost every Saturday afternoon. 

mnem

[Cerebus]

Finally got my second dose of Bill G nanoparticles. Installing windows on all my things now.

More seriously, full on macguyver mode today. It’s amazing that projects get 99.9% complete and then someone realises they forgot a critical part like make A talk to B  . Thus sticky tape it is 

Use bailing wire, it lasts longer than sticky tape. 

I think Go is my bailing wire. This one involved writing my own specialised UDP version of netcat with backpressure circuit breaker in it 

Yeeew. That's antisocial you know, some poor muppet's going to have to get the mop out and get all those spilled packets off the floor. 

[bd139]

bd139 is back on the wagon so expect some bd-BOOM!!! moments any time now. 

Working on it  . In the mean time I leave you with an exploding 1F capacitor:

Yeeew. That's antisocial you know, some poor muppet's going to have to get the mop out and get all those spilled packets off the floor. 

 

Actually that reminds me 

[mnementh]

"Life is messy; bring a sponge." ~me

mnem
mmmm... packet soup...

[mnementh]

bd139 is back on the wagon so expect some bd-BOOM!!! moments any time now. 

Working on it  . In the mean time I leave you with an exploding 1F capacitor:

Watch out... Saskia seems pretty possessive of her other hobby: amateur deployment vehicle development Model Rocketry. 

mnem
*thanks his lucky stars that dwagons are fireproof*

[med6753]

That was a nice BOOM 

In other news.....I think I finally have my little problem resolved. Had that damn thing out this morning. Got home and downed a 20 oz water in one shot. And now I can put out a 3 alarm fire all by myself without even trying hard. 

Gimme that rope, and watch this. 

I have to go back this afternoon to verify.

[Cerebus]

I have to go back this afternoon to verify.

Do you have to supply your own rope, or does the clinic have them on hand?

[mnementh]

In other news.....I think I finally have my little problem resolved. Had that damn thing out this morning. Got home and downed a 20 oz water in one shot. And now I can put out a 3 alarm fire all by myself without even trying hard. 

Gimme that rope, and watch this. 

I have to go back this afternoon to verify.

I hereby dub thee: Papa Smurf, Lord of Piddlington and Keeper of the Sacred 12AU7 of Doom

Hold these treasures in good health, and safeguard them for all our children, and our children's children...

mnem

[med6753]

I have to go back this afternoon to verify.

Do you have to supply your own rope, or does the clinic have them on hand?

I got the urologist's bill today and with the amount they charged Medicare and my insurance they should supply the rope. Holy shit, my co pay was a tiny fraction of the total charges.

[Saskia]

my one day in a commifornia hospital cost me 38675 USD ... and that was about 20 years ago ...

[Andrew_Debbie]

Three Words  -   N H S

My inguinal hernia repair cost me exactly £0.00   That includes clinic appointments  before surgury, post op. medication and two followup visits to my GP   (they don't see us back in the hospital or clinic unless things go badly wrong)

There are no bills, no co-pays, no insurance forms, no visits from a friendly hospital administrator with clipboard asking about insurance and no surprise bills a month later.

Edit:  Almost forgot been so long since we lived in the USA:  No spending hours on hold with the insurance company.

[Specmaster]

my one day in a commifornia hospital cost me 38675 USD ... and that was about 20 years ago ...

Sh1t, thats what we have coming up real soon by the look of it, bloody politicians, can't leave our NHS alone. Maybe I need to get a supply of 1F or better yet bigger ones to stuff down their trousers and then detonate them.   

[med6753]

my one day in a commifornia hospital cost me 38675 USD ... and that was about 20 years ago ...

11 visits just to the Urologist (and his prostate surgery charge) was nearly $8K USD. My co-pay: $135 USD

My ER visit and over night stay at the hospital back in March was nearly $12K USD. My co-pay: $375 USD

If I hadn't purchased additional insurance my hospital co-pay would have been $6700 USD. 

I haven't seen the hospital bills yet for the prostate and the hernia. I'm in no hurry. 

Edit....Yes, USA health care is fucked up big time.

[Specmaster]

Three Words  -   N H S

My inguinal hernia repair cost me exactly £0.00   That includes clinic appointments  before surgury, post op. medication and two followup visits to my GP   (they don't see us back in the hospital or clinic unless things go badly wrong)

There are no bills, no co-pays, no insurance forms, no visits from a friendly hospital administrator with clipboard asking about insurance and no surprise bills a month later.

Edit:  Almost forgot been so long since we lived in the USA:  No spending hours on hold with the insurance company.

Hmm, you're right, but watch this space BJ has other plans for the NHS that will mimic the USA because thats who he plans to sell it to.

[Specmaster]

my one day in a commifornia hospital cost me 38675 USD ... and that was about 20 years ago ...

11 visits just to the Urologist (and his prostate surgery charge) was nearly $8K USD. My co-pay: $135 USD

My ER visit and over night stay at the hospital back in March was nearly $12K USD. My co-pay: $375 USD

If I hadn't purchased additional insurance my hospital co-pay would have been $6700 USD. 

I haven't seen the hospital bills yet for the prostate and the hernia. I'm in no hurry. 

Edit....Yes, USA health care is fucked up big time.

Offer them the 547 as final payment?

[Saskia]

over here I am paying 1000 / month in health insurance.
Not happy I am.

Financing for house is being finalized.
notary public appointment preliminarily set for Aug 20

ordered moving boxes, need a couple of pallets to store stuff. Tell Hubby to start packing.

[med6753]

my one day in a commifornia hospital cost me 38675 USD ... and that was about 20 years ago ...

11 visits just to the Urologist (and his prostate surgery charge) was nearly $8K USD. My co-pay: $135 USD

My ER visit and over night stay at the hospital back in March was nearly $12K USD. My co-pay: $375 USD

If I hadn't purchased additional insurance my hospital co-pay would have been $6700 USD. 

I haven't seen the hospital bills yet for the prostate and the hernia. I'm in no hurry. 

Edit....Yes, USA health care is fucked up big time.

Offer them the 547 as final payment?

Over my dead body. 

[Cerebus]

Three Words  -   N H S

My inguinal hernia repair cost me exactly £0.00   That includes clinic appointments  before surgury, post op. medication and two followup visits to my GP   (they don't see us back in the hospital or clinic unless things go badly wrong)

There are no bills, no co-pays, no insurance forms, no visits from a friendly hospital administrator with clipboard asking about insurance and no surprise bills a month later.

Edit:  Almost forgot been so long since we lived in the USA:  No spending hours on hold with the insurance company.

Hmm, you're right, but watch this space BJ has other plans for the NHS that will mimic the USA because thats who he plans to sell it to.

Yeah, but the plan isn't to make us pay for it at the Doctor's/Hospital door. We'll never see a bill the way patients in the US do, because if you do that here within a few days the tourists will be buying little packets of "Ashes of Parliament" as souvenirs. It's all about deals behind closed doors that bleed off tax money into private hands.